ORIGINAL: CraigG
I guess I'm in the minority here but I prefer Pro Mark. I just find it a lot simpler to rub on the markings and then clear coat or not. The issue of having to sometimes rub harder can usually be corrected by the application of a little heat with a hair dryer or heat gun.
I tried that plus ever other trick I heard about, and still could not get many of the pro-mark deals to come off without so much pressure that the underlying surface was dented. I guess there must be as much of a 'magic touch' needed for Promark as for Tailormade.
Interestingly enough, I found that Aeroloft's dry transfers never had the problem tha the Promark ones had, in releasing from the carrier - but unfortunately Cindy from Aeroloft is such a complete #$%^ to deal with and there's absolutely no point getting decals that work well when a huge portion of them are either missing or provided in the wrong color
so her seemingly superior quality materials are more than countered by her disgusting treatment of customers (and her abysmal custom art work that appears to have been done by a 4 year old).
BTW, is there a method to do rivets with Tailormade?
I didn't need to try that for the model I used Tailormade on, since 'recessed' rivets were applied either in the mold by the manufacturer, or after the fact by me with a soldering iron - but given how easliy the carrier disappeared with my decals I guess you could apply them in strips. Not 100% sure though - ask Ralle and he will tell you straight up about any limitations.
Gordon