ENGINE DOWN THRUST ANGLE QUESTION???
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
I was thinking of posting this question in Kit Building, but maybe aerodynamics might be a better choice. I am getting ready to slightly kit bash a Sig Kadet Seniorso as tousea larger engine than the original design. The plans show 6 degrees down thrust and 2 degrees right thrust to be built into the forward bulkhead/firewall. I am just curious if this amount of enginedown thrust would be applicable as the engine size is increased? Two degreesright thrust is fairly common but 6 degrees seems like a lot for downthrust.
#2
The "theories "on down thrust are pretty darn subjective
A LOT depends on the speeds yo like to fly.
Why the larger engine?
A whim?
essentially th model is of a size and the wing setup makes for a lot of climb under power
The huge down thrust was likely done to increase speed yet hopefully provide some force to keep the nose down
You can screw around with the speed n downthrust and the wing saddle position till the cows come home
BUT the stock setup makes for a gentle very ,very easy model to fly.
My old Seniorita can quickly be trimmed for complete hands off flying - it will do huge circles with a gentle undulating flight path
meaning the model will slightly climb till speed drops back then dive slightly picking up speed and the nose will gradually come up -repeat etc.. lovely free flight flying
If you are after an aerobatic setup , the basic model arrangement is wrong -so once you dig into more power for more speed you wil end up having to change angles of wing and thrust -or just accept it is what it is.
A LOT depends on the speeds yo like to fly.
Why the larger engine?
A whim?
essentially th model is of a size and the wing setup makes for a lot of climb under power
The huge down thrust was likely done to increase speed yet hopefully provide some force to keep the nose down
You can screw around with the speed n downthrust and the wing saddle position till the cows come home
BUT the stock setup makes for a gentle very ,very easy model to fly.
My old Seniorita can quickly be trimmed for complete hands off flying - it will do huge circles with a gentle undulating flight path
meaning the model will slightly climb till speed drops back then dive slightly picking up speed and the nose will gradually come up -repeat etc.. lovely free flight flying
If you are after an aerobatic setup , the basic model arrangement is wrong -so once you dig into more power for more speed you wil end up having to change angles of wing and thrust -or just accept it is what it is.
#3
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Why the larger engine?
Whim?
Well actually I was looking for something in the 75 to 80 inch range that I could hopefully keep ataround 9lbs or so to put a larger four-stroke on.I wanted something similar to J-3 Cub performance. Mild acro and slow flighting in the traffic pattern. Just a plane to play with. Also, the forward fuse needed to allow the fuel tank to be placed below the thrust line by about 2 1/2 inches. One of the guys in my club was flying his Kadet Senior ARF today. The Kadet Senior was one plane I had viewed with some interest while on the SIG site. Over the years I have seen several Seniors bashed into fairly interesting and fun planes. Take out most of the dihedral, add ailerons, make the wing mount more modern, perhaps lift struts,etc. During today's conversation with the Seniorflyer, he mentioned he hada kit, NIB that he'dsell for $60. Sonow youknow how all this got started.
Being a kit, IWill be able to more easily move equip, batt, and such so as to keep the CG right without adding weight. I can strengthen the forward fuse and use thicker firewall plywood to accommodate the larger engine. Anyway, that is the present plan.
dick Hanson, I checked the plans and the flat wing bottom and stab are at 0 degrees incidence to the fuse datum line. The chord line of the wing is probably pretty close to 5 or 6 degrees up. So I guess that is why the motor is 6 degrees down. What would happen if the wing incidence and motor thrust angle were both at or near zero? Since this is going to be a taildragger, negative lift at takeoff would not be an issue.
Whim?
Well actually I was looking for something in the 75 to 80 inch range that I could hopefully keep ataround 9lbs or so to put a larger four-stroke on.I wanted something similar to J-3 Cub performance. Mild acro and slow flighting in the traffic pattern. Just a plane to play with. Also, the forward fuse needed to allow the fuel tank to be placed below the thrust line by about 2 1/2 inches. One of the guys in my club was flying his Kadet Senior ARF today. The Kadet Senior was one plane I had viewed with some interest while on the SIG site. Over the years I have seen several Seniors bashed into fairly interesting and fun planes. Take out most of the dihedral, add ailerons, make the wing mount more modern, perhaps lift struts,etc. During today's conversation with the Seniorflyer, he mentioned he hada kit, NIB that he'dsell for $60. Sonow youknow how all this got started.
Being a kit, IWill be able to more easily move equip, batt, and such so as to keep the CG right without adding weight. I can strengthen the forward fuse and use thicker firewall plywood to accommodate the larger engine. Anyway, that is the present plan.
dick Hanson, I checked the plans and the flat wing bottom and stab are at 0 degrees incidence to the fuse datum line. The chord line of the wing is probably pretty close to 5 or 6 degrees up. So I guess that is why the motor is 6 degrees down. What would happen if the wing incidence and motor thrust angle were both at or near zero? Since this is going to be a taildragger, negative lift at takeoff would not be an issue.
#4
You could easily raise the trailing edge 1/4" for starters - make allowances to raise it more
the flat bottom of the wing is just a referrence line.
the true zero lift line is up to at least the center of the leading edge
with good ailerons - take out all the dihedral THEN use a slightly raised position for "center "of ailerons.
keep the weight down -big chunks of wood do no good strength wise - add some beef to the fuselage sides which take th engine loads
the flat bottom of the wing is just a referrence line.
the true zero lift line is up to at least the center of the leading edge
with good ailerons - take out all the dihedral THEN use a slightly raised position for "center "of ailerons.
keep the weight down -big chunks of wood do no good strength wise - add some beef to the fuselage sides which take th engine loads
#5
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From: Wichita,
KS
Hello;
Piped .60? Mine has one on it and it fly's good on 0 down thrust. (set it up as a pattern ship...lol)...what ya have to be careful of is the wing blowing...(it took a couple of wings to get the wing strong enough). She will do OK if you just keep it slow and don't go crazy with her...
Steve</p>
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From: Paramus,
NJ
Hi All
I have a Sig LT 25 that I just converted to e flight..It use to fly with an OS 25FX.
Now with the electric motor it wants to climb..I added some washers behind the mount for added down thrust and it still wants to climb. I check the engine down thrust agaisnt the plans and motor seems prefect.
Could IT be a matter of the Cg being tail heavy? I balanced It on the main wing spar as per the building instructions.
THanks Dan
PS the wing chord is 12" and the wing spar is 3 1/2" form the leading edge.Thats what wasa called for in the instructions.
I have a Sig LT 25 that I just converted to e flight..It use to fly with an OS 25FX.
Now with the electric motor it wants to climb..I added some washers behind the mount for added down thrust and it still wants to climb. I check the engine down thrust agaisnt the plans and motor seems prefect.
Could IT be a matter of the Cg being tail heavy? I balanced It on the main wing spar as per the building instructions.
THanks Dan
PS the wing chord is 12" and the wing spar is 3 1/2" form the leading edge.Thats what wasa called for in the instructions.
#8
It's summer, we were probably all out enjoying it.... 
Sounds like you figured it out for yourself. As you found the amount of downthrust required is actually linked to the CG location and the wing to stabilizer angle. The further back the CG and less the angle the lower the tendency is for the design to pitch up with a speed increase. Taken to major extremes you'll find that a 0-0-0 model with the CG located right on the neutral point does not need any downthrust and won't nose up when the speed increases. Trainers with forward'ish CG's and strong wing to stab decalage angles greatly benefit from having some downthrust.

Sounds like you figured it out for yourself. As you found the amount of downthrust required is actually linked to the CG location and the wing to stabilizer angle. The further back the CG and less the angle the lower the tendency is for the design to pitch up with a speed increase. Taken to major extremes you'll find that a 0-0-0 model with the CG located right on the neutral point does not need any downthrust and won't nose up when the speed increases. Trainers with forward'ish CG's and strong wing to stab decalage angles greatly benefit from having some downthrust.




