Joe Hunt

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Thanks Ferocious Frankie!

96", just a toy. lol

On the nose heavy, yeah, I was conservative and put the RX batteries under the fuel tank. I'll move them back under the pilot area and I should be dialed.

Joe Hunt

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Watch for Monkey pics late tonight.

Joe Hunt

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Thanks, zzw26n!

96", that's about foamie size, ain't it? haha

Joe Hunt

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The previous 96" H9 Suk was one of the worst planes ever. But, H9 has also turned out some winners. One thing I noticed on the H9 105" 260 and this new 97" Sukhoi is that the hatch is covered and the canopy needs to be glued on. It's so nice to have the canopy installed and painted with the hatch, no covering, like Aeroworks does. It's less work, of course, but also looks much nicer... no color mismatches.

Joe Hunt

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A few more pics of the assembly.

Chopped up the cowl::


Here's how I took care of power'n the rudder (8711s are just the best):


Bolted on the tailwheel into the predrilled holes (this is bad for your servo, I gotta fix this):

Joe Hunt

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Four 1" 8x32 bolts to bolt down the landing gear... yup, it's predrilled, blind nuts already installed. Used Zap/Pacer medium threadlocker:


She's on the gear. The wheelpants, tires, landing gear, axles, etc... are already to go... no gluing, building, or thinking, of any kind here... just, yeah, bolt it together:

Joe Hunt

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A pic of "Team Joe" finishing up the plane:


I covered the bottom of F2 because it's lighter than the wooden cover and easier to clean:


This shot shows the ignition installation:

Joe Hunt

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Team Joe in matching Jersey Modeler Ts:


Team Joe happy to watch Mark do the flip'n:


Joe Nolasco giving the thumbs up:


And, taxi'n out for the maiden... :

Gungadin

Joe--very nice video sir ! The airplane looks like it flys terriffic. The driver ain't too shabby either !

Joe Hunt

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And, again, the video:

VIDEO:

http://www.caseylauren.com/aw-96inch-260.wmv

Joe Hunt

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Thanks, Gungadin!

Yes, everyone needs a couple of these... I'm serious. 8-)

AEROSHELDON

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is that the stock tailwheel?

Joe Hunt

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Nah, I robbed it off the 42%. lol The plane just looks to custom built to have the metal one on there... for me. Just a silly thing. I gotta fix that geometry, though, so the spring is not pulling in the air. Same way I fixed the geometry on my Aeroworks 104" Yak 54.

AEROSHELDON

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can you elaborate on the geometry?

Joe Hunt

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Here's how I set it up:


Here's an explanation of what I used to set it up:


You see, to have these leaf and heigh style tail wheels work properly you need to have a rudder arm that gets you in the hinge line. Aeroworks doesn't provide that, and neither do any of the leaf and heigh style tail wheel manufacturers that I know of. Again, first thing, get the pivot point in the hinge line (I just used a Hitec servo arm to do this, easy, simple):


Next make your rudder arm holes the same width as your tiller arm holes.



The Aeroworks arm is too wide... it will get you fast ground handling in low rate rudder, but with a price... the price being when you are flying, your rudder servos will have to overpower the tailwheel springs to move the rudder. That wears out your servos and batteries. Consequently most flyers use soft springs, which gets you back to bad ground handling. Get your geometry right and you can use super stiff springs for the greatest ground handling you ever had, you can even go with no springs at all! Best of all, no binding in the air, no extra juice needed to overpower the springs... the rudder servos should only be dealing with the force of the air, not also pulling on springs to get you the rudder deflection you're asking for. Doh! lol


The acid test on this is easily done (and most all planes on the flight line fail this test)... lift the back of your plane off the ground... crank the rudder all the way over... does it stay there?... I didn't think so. lol Your non-pulling cable is stretched, so it snaps the rudder back to center. That is also happening in the air. When you ask for rudder deflection the servos must not only fight normal resistance forces, but they also must stretch those springs. Doh! lol


Here you see the rudder staying put with ease at full deflection... the non pulling chain/spring is neither tight nor loose. Perfect.

AEROSHELDON

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Man! That is useful info and one of the best explainations of anything I think I have ever read! It makes PERFECT sense, and I will do it this way from now on (no planes now of I would retro-fit them).

Thanks!!!!

smarks

Since we're talking about the rudder, I have always wondered what's the correct tension on pull-pull cables? I have seen people have them very loose, or very tight like a guitar string. What's your thought Joe? By the way, were did you get those chains? OSH?

Gungadin

Joe--When the video starts up there is a shot of some weight wrapped on the tail wheel bracket, and some comment about it being 4-1/2 oz. With you mounting the rudder servo way back like you did this surprised me. I guess this would be a good candidate for a carbon fiber spinner then. Were you able to eliminate the tail weight by moving the battery pack ?

Joe Hunt

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You don't have a plane right now? That's just not right. lol Hey! Somebody get this man a plane, will ya'?! lol

Joe Hunt

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We need a fish scale and some time to come up with a formula. lol But, all I can tell you is I snug them up. You wouldn't call them tight, or loose. Not really much help, huh? lol

OSH is "Orchard Supply Hardware", but any place that sells small chain.

Joe Hunt

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Hi Gungadin... yeah, we were at the field... so a quick fix was to strap on some tail weight. It was a battery pack which we later weighed at 3oz. I mounted the receiver battery packs under the fuel tank... thinking that the rudder servo in the tail would make the plane tail heavy with the light DA-85 on the nose. But, nope, it was not tailheavy. So, yeah, all I have to do is move my batteries back a bit... maybe under were a pilot would be in the hatch... instead of up under the fuel tank. Then I can remove the tail weight I taped onto the tail wheel. 8-)

zzw26n

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Joe,

I need Flying lessons from you!

I ended up having the Ign. battery on the Engine box and the two Reciever batteries behind the wing tube, CG was perfect.

aegis

Does anyone with the AW Extra 260 also have experience with the Wild Hare 33% Extra 260? If so, how do you compare the two for general aerobatics and precision? I have the WH and am thinking about going with something different. I have a 3W 80 in the WH and will use it in whatever else I go with.

Dan

bodywerks

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This one definitely looks better and is of higher quality.

PTS

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Hey Joe!

Great build as always! Where did you get the conicals? I was hoping for a source other than taking apart ball link kits. I just received this same scheme in the 100cc. Quality is great!

Thanks,

Perry