zzw26n

My Feedback: (45)

Not to de-rail the thread but, I wanted to thank Perry / PTS for helping me get into my first Aero-Works and being a class act, thanks, your great guy with lots of intigrity.


And the conicles for mine, I took out of another set, so your right, a source for those would help.

Ward

PTS

My Feedback: (153)

Ward! Thanks for the nice compliment. I knew that the 100cc would have the same scheme soon enough and that is why I sold the 75cc version. I can't resist the twin DA-100.

Thanks,

Perry

Joe Hunt

My Feedback: (4)

Good question on the conicals, I'm just using ones I've collected through the years.

Here's the last pic:

smarks

Joe - You inspired me to retrofit my Yak with a similar tail wheel setup. I was able to use the supplied rudder horn however. Just trimmed it down to the same width as the tiller arm. Works great! And now she passes the "acid" test.

Joe Hunt

My Feedback: (4)

Perfecto, smarks!

That supplied arm is hard to drill with a regular bit, but with a cobalt bit from Home Depot it drills like butter. 8-)

smarks

Yup, that's what I used. It is pretty tough stuff. Used a dremel to cut it down and round it back out, then drilled it. Had to drill another mounting hole as well since the original one was in the hinge line. Thanks for providing the info. It makes total sense and don't know why more people don't realize the extra load it puts on the servo and bat.

Joe Hunt

My Feedback: (4)

I hear ya', smarks... then there's throttle linkage, pull/pull geometry, resolution, and the list goes on and on...

Anyway, I took this pic and photoshopped it up a bit for fun:

smarks

Hey Joe - I was just over talking with Rocco and wanted to ask you a question. I tried to send you an email, let me know if you don't get it.

Thanks!

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

making some progress on mine. The business end is done, and all I really have left is to determine battery locations, mount the receiver, and program the radio.
Here is a pic of the front end, and also how I did my choke linkage without having to use a bell crank or servo - nice and light. Also note the end-grain balsa motor mount, titanium engine mount bolts, and safety wire usage. The mount/bolts dropped another 3 ounces or so, and I always do the safety wire thing so I don't have to keep checking for loose bolts...

Joe Hunt

My Feedback: (4)

3 blindnut screws per blindnut? That's extra weight, man. lol I kid, I kid! Looking great, brother!

smarks

Nice choke setup. I was asking Rocco and Kelly today how best to do that. No worries now! [8D]

Gungadin

Bodywerks---You really are using your noodle with your end grain balsa block mount. On your choke set up, where does it come out of the cowl ? It is a push pull deal I assume ?

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks. The pushrod ends right at the cowl air inlet. I just put a little bend in the wire for a handle - simple.

smarks

Nick - Where did you get all your carbon components and the titanium engine bolts?

PTS

My Feedback: (153)

www.racebolts.com

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

graphtechrc.com and what he said

kingairguy

Here is a new decal kit from badbradgraphics.com for the Aeroworks 260. There is one decal missing (radio of your choice) from the tail but it does come with the kit.

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

Nice stuff, dude!
Kingair, do you work on them or fly them, or is that just a name? I work on CRJ's.

kingairguy

I currently fly the 90,200,300 and 350 but may soon make the jump to the good ole CRJ. Not sure if I want to take the pay cut lol!

smaze17

My Feedback: (60)

Guys - Is there an option to put the rudder servo in the tail as opposed to doing the pull pull setup? I see that there was a post earlier in the thread showing that type of setup...

TIA!

zzw26n

My Feedback: (45)

yes

smaze17

My Feedback: (60)

it's funny because there is no mention of opting for the fuse rudder servo option in the manual. does one need to actually cut a servo hole in the fuse wood or is the servo hole already there?

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

No. The hole is already there. All you need is a 4" titanium turnbuckle and use the supplied control arms and ball links.

bodywerks

My Feedback: (4)

FINISHED UNDER 21 POUNDS!!!
All I have to do is put a couple of the supplied logos on the fuse, and a DA logo. It did take a little effort and extra money, but I am under 21 pounds, nonetheless.
Here's a recap of my equipment, front to back:
Pete Models CF Spinner
Mejzlik 27X10th prop
DA-85
KS95 cannister and header
Smart-fly ignition kill
JR821 digi on throttle
24 ounce tank (the supplied smoke tank)
Graphtech CF landing gear - lightened even further
Graphtech main and stab tubes
5955's on the ailerons
JR 2.4ghz 921 receiver
3 - A123 1100mah packs
8711 on the rudder
8611A's on the elevators
Aeroworks CF tailwheel

I also lightened up the airframe (about 8 ounces worth) to achieve this weight. Note also that my take-off weight will be about a half-pound less than stock due to the smaller tank. Something else to think about is that the can added about 6-7 ounces over going with a pitts muffler, So I could have been even lighter!
Anyway, I have to go and iron down the covering (haven't touched the fuse yet and it is wrinkle-free, but it still needs to be ironed down) and program the radio and hope to do the maiden tomorrow afternoon...

smaze17

My Feedback: (60)

thanks bodywerks!! ya know - i absolutely convinced myself that i was going to buy the hanger 9 260 - which i still believe is a beautiful aircraft and i prefer the color scheme on it compared to the aeroworks 260 - however, i've come to the conclusion that the aeroworks is just "plane" nicer....i've gone thru the manual several times already and it seems to be an incredible blend of well thought out assembly techniques combined with beautiful aerodynamic symmetry!!!