mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

This is for the 30cc correct?

Tommorro is the day I can open up the box and start putting her togeather!

How are the struts comeing along?

Thanks for the coolest bird in the city! LOL

Capt Midnight

Methinks this is for the 50cc version.

bigphil

My Feedback: (6)

The previously posted photo of the 50 cc version gave the CG as 5.00 - 6.25 inches from the leading edge. This would give 5.625 as the center of the CG and convert to 142.8mm. The 133mm thus seems reasonable for the 30cc size to me... ???

gjhinshaw

My Feedback: (303)

Yes, It is for the 30cc

bigphil

My Feedback: (6)

If you haven't see one of these models here are a few pics of my 30cc. Beautiful plane!

These are not the factory graphics, I re-cut my own vinyl. There were quite a number of issues with the supplied hardware but if your the kind of guy who doesn't use the furnished stuff anyway, this shouldn't be much of an issue. I did report all my findings to Gerry and he was very receptive about correcting them, so I would expect to see the hardware problems resolved in future production.

My experience with the supplied vinyl was like that of an earlier post so I won't repeat that here.

The (nearly) finished plane is a thing of beauty though!

gjhinshaw

My Feedback: (303)

VERY VERY NICE PHIL!!!!! Thanks for EVERYTHING everyone has done!! Its because of YOU THE CUSTOMER that this can be corrected!!!! THANK YOU ALL!!!!

pc2209

I have a questin for Gerry.. Is the clean adhesive sheet supplied to put over the fine script decals to protect them?
One for Phil...your custom decals looked really good...How did you do that? PC

pc2209

Just about finished with my GeeBee. Only thing left is to clean up the wiring and put on the wheel pants. Beautiful airplane. This airplane is very tail heavy and as per Gerrry's suggestion I made any and all efforts to put eveything as far forward as possible. Going to post some pictures to show you guys what I did.. Balanced it tonight and I think even with everyting as far forward I will add 3 oz of lead across the enging mount to get it to come out.
My plane is coming out at 16lb 3oz. I would be interested in what the rest of you are coming up with in terms of weight. I made no effort to build light forward of the CG since I knew it was going to need weight up front either in building or lead. [building is better] I don't think this plane could be built much lighter since with the exception of moving the elevator servos forward there really is not much you could change behind the GC that would let you build lighter forward of it.

There is one big problem I didn't see til the end. The forward tray for the gas tank sits over the forward wing bolts. Gerry said that some were taking the tray out so they could get to it when attaching the wings. Thay would mean that the tanks [in my case 2 since I wanted smoke] would sit inside the motor mount box which would shift the CG a lot when full or empty. Also that would make them much harder to work with. In any case by the time I realized it it was too late so I had to come up with something different. As you can see from the pics I made a tool which inserts through the opening in the motor box, echanged the nylon bolt for one with a allen head. First wing attaches easier because you can do it through the other wings opening. The second has to be through the little hole as shown in the pictures. Don't laugh it works.... Would have been nice to had a little hatch in the bottom of the fuselage.... some consideraton was given to just using one bolt but the one in the back is so far back there I was concerned that wouldn't be adequate.

My engine is an Evolution..26cc I love this engine [ I have 4 of them] because everyone I've ever had has been so dependable and idles so well. In additon they are super easy to install because of the carb being up front. The Smoke System: As some of you who like smoke know it can be a little tricky to get good smoke. I've had smoke on this same engine before but wasn't really happy with the amount of smoke it produced ....Also since the walls of the muffler are so thin it is hard to tap into it with a threaded fitting and eventually the vibration works it loose... This time was different...figured out a way to use bolts to hold it in and made a special spray bar that atomizes the oil...that makes a huge difference.
If anyone is interested I will take that out and get a few pictures of it. Smoke test yesterday was awesome... It was making so much smoke I turned it around and aimed at my neighbors house [he's a golf *****] Har...it invveloped him.... Looking forward to flying this plane but would like to hear from anyone that has already flown... PC

bigphil

My Feedback: (6)

PC, I use a small vinyl cutter called a [link=http://www.specialty-graphics.com/Roland_Stika_SV12_Vinyl_Cutter.html]Sticka Cutter[/link]. These are fairly expensive for hobby use but I make some graphics for the local flyers too which helps offset the investment. Works very well but the limitation is the rather small bed. Mine is the 12 inch unit which will actually cut about 9 5/8 max width.

On your build, I don't have my engine or tank mounted in the plane yet but I'm planning to relieve the tank shelf a bit so I can get my hand in there to assemble the wing bolts. Having only one tank should simplify this a bit. Without the tank and engine mounted I don't have a good idea of my final weight or CG yet but I'm expecting it to be tail heavy...

Mine is going to be powered by a Moki 2.10.

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Nice job pc229, how did you attach the wires to the gear struts and wings? Did you have to cut into the covering and was there enough wood present for the wire attachments or did you have to add wood? Hope the maiden goes well, its a beautiful plane Watch this video, you will be glad you added the strut supports!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmeLo9sKVSY


Jimmy

gjhinshaw

My Feedback: (303)

The clear is just there. No use for it really, unless you want to use it.
I will tell ALL of you that EVERYTHING you have sent to me has been sent over to be fixed!
These are things that HAVE to be resolved!
I want to thank everyone that has helped me!!
Company's don't understand that RC is for the Customer not them!!
As most of you can see, On my web page I have Lowered the price and have said things about inperfections.
I want to be fair and Honest! If you look, I have the Lowest prices anywhere!!

Robert_Ellis

Brusshorton - Beautiful job on it. I can't tell from the pic, how much space is left below the cylinder head? I have a DA85 that might fit - the cylinder/plug would hang about 1 inch lower than a DA50.

Thanks.

bigphil

My Feedback: (6)

Yeah I'd be interested in details on how you set up your gear wires too PC. I've been considering this myself, expecially after seeing the video of the "less than perfect" landing.

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Hey Gerry, its nice to have a company stand behind what they sell to the consumer. I really appreciate it and I look forward to doing business with you in the future. Your China trip should be paying off with the first run, cant wait to see it.

Jimmy

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Hey Robert, You better go with the 100cc size GeeBee with that DA85...whew! thats one powerful engine and Gerry is running a huge discount on the 100cc versions at this time

Jimmy

mikes68charger

My Feedback: (34)

Hey pc2209Which size bird do you have?

Is that the 30cc? Mine has a huge hole in the bottom of the firewall for a muff, Im hopeing this hole will help with the wing bolts.

But looking really good.

I to would love to see how you attaced the wires to the landing gear. Help us Out!!

Thanks Mike

gjhinshaw

My Feedback: (303)

Adding flying wires!!! pics are from our spanish forum. THANKS!!!!

jose pop

gjhinshaw, this pics are from our spanish GEE BEE R3 forum!!!!!!!!!

gjhinshaw

My Feedback: (303)

YES!!! I ask to use them and the Gentleman said I could. So this is why I posted them

pc2209

I am posting some pictures of the struts for the landing gear. Actually after I saw what Gerry posted I think I might like his way a little better mainly because as you will see from the pictures his way is simpler. I didn't use wires but used threaded rods and swivel links... I made the gizmo that clasps onto the main landing gear by taking two pieces of aluminum [from hardward store] about 3/16 by 3/8 thick each, drilled two holes for the bolts that hold them together and a middle hole at right angles to the bolt holes which is slighly smaller than the diameter of the landing gear piano wire. [So the sldes clamp down on the gear wire when the bolts are tightened ] Using a dremel I just shaved off some of the ends so that I could bolt a swivel link onto each side using a 2mm bolt. All bolts have nylon lock nuts. Although Gerry had said something to me about there already being hard points on the wing to attach to I couldn't find them so I had to make my own. From the pics you can see that the one on the inner side was easy cause you can get into the wing from the opening on the inside of the wing. On the outside of the landing gear I located where a rib coming into the leading edge and epoxied a 3/8 square hardwood dowel in the corner of the leading edge and rib. This piece is runs the full thickness of the rib so it is glued to both the top and bottom of the side of the rib as well as the leading edge. I didn't want to do any more cutting into the wing than I did to make it any sturdier than that. From the feel of it that feels pretty solid.

bigphil

My Feedback: (6)

Gerry,
Got any help for those of us looking for the factory hard points? Can we measure from something? I'm talking about the 30cc version.
Thanks!

pc2209

Also someone was interested the smoke system so I will post some pics of the system taken apart. (mostly] As I posted earlier I am using an Evolution motor so the muffler for it may be somewhat different from what some of you have and this may not work. But most gassers have a Pitts style mufler available so maybe. In any case, always a problem when making your own smoke system muffler [ as opposed to buying one that has a fitting soldered into the aluminum] is to get the fitting to stay in because the walls of the mufler are so thin you can't tap into them and have any decent number of threads to hold. I've seen people suggest on forums to use JB Weld and I have done that but still vibrates loose. The second problem with smoke is getting it to burn well so as to make the most smoke. If you dump too much into the exhaust it doesn't burn totally and actually cools things... [less smoke] Also too much of it just gets blown out of the exhaust in liquid form, and some of smoke fluid is expensive!!! To burn well most suggest putting the oil fitting so that it empties in the hottest place. I think that is right in front of the exhaust port of the engine. I got to thinking I might be able to improve even further if the oil entering the muffler was somehow atomized since smaller particles burn better than large. To this end I started experimenting with crimping down brass tubing in various ways. Example: thin flat opening. What I settled on was a tube crimped off totally on the end and two small holes drilled into the tubing that are directly in front of the exhaust port.... One hole is bigger than the other and the small hole faces the engine and the larger one is directly across from the smaller one. [These holes are very small like pin holes] The idea for the placement of the holes was so that the exhaust pressure would blow through the smaller hole [the one facing the engine] and accelerate the speed of the fluid coming out of the larger second hole as well as break up the surface tension. I tried this before putting it in using water and compressed air....the water was very well atomized. I know water has a different viscosity than thicker oil but I think it may still work the same. In a previous airplane I was using the same pump and muffler but the fitting just dripped the oil in and I was always disappointed in how much smoke it didn't make. I never tried anything other than StaDri Oil though... so maybe diesel fuel would have done better. The injector tube is 1/8 brass and the plate that holds it in is some brass plate that I made from a door strike plate. The piece of flat brass has 3 holes drilled in it. 2 for the bolts and a middle one for the injector tube. You have to use silver solder to put this together. If you're not familiar with silver solder you should know that you have to have an acetylene torch set up to use it. Silver solder melting point is much higher but it is very easy to use and is very similar to regular solder once you get hot enough. As the brass tubing comes through the plate I inserted the next size down brass tubing to facilitate the bend and then added back on a short piece of brass tubing to the end so the 1/8 tubing would fit on. I also solderd a cross piece for support. I haven't done test with other injector tube designs as I was very please with the smoke this thing produced. I was able to bolt the plate with the injector tube to the muffler after I drilled the 3 matching holes into the muffler. The bolts are 3mm and the nuts are nylon lock nuts PLUS I put on some regular lock washer since I though the nylon might melt. I was able to hold onto the nuts to tighten the screws by using a curved hemostat

pc2209

Additional pic of smoke system

Also someone said something about his firewall having a hole it it for a muffler and being able to get to the front wing bolt Mine doesn't ahave a hole there but I like the idea there is no reason for me not to cut one. I think this would be easier than my original plan and not too late for me to do it now..Thanks for idea... PC

gjhinshaw

My Feedback: (303)

You know if you just stuff brass tubing in there, (so there are no kinks) and run it around before it sprays it will give you better smoke! The oil HAS to be pre-heated. By doing that it will be hot enough to give great smoke!!!

pacoflyer

My Feedback: (23)

Thanks Paul,
Great description and pics of your smoke system

paul