Adding weight for cg
#1
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From: Matthews,
NC
I just got a Seagull Edge 540 60 and am needing to add weight. I have the engine as far forward as it can go due to cowl restrictions and I also have the battery as far forward as I can get it. The plane is still very very tail heavy. What is the best thing to use when you need to add alot of weight?
#2
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Some will say get a bigger battery, which is never a bad idea. But when push comes to shove, I just add lead - and as much as needed! I used to try to keep it light, but I have found that you are much better off adding a pound if that's what it takes than to be even slightly tail-heavy.
PS, and when i say a pound, I mean it. I have added over 20oz to some planes - And the still flew great
PS, and when i say a pound, I mean it. I have added over 20oz to some planes - And the still flew great
#4
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From: Matthews,
NC
Thanks Minn. I guess i will go pick up some fishing lead weights. I will figure out how much I need then melt it into a solid block to make it easier for mounting.
And you can never go wrong with a bigger engine. I want to get a 120 4s for it but the funds are a little tight right now.
And you can never go wrong with a bigger engine. I want to get a 120 4s for it but the funds are a little tight right now.
#6

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Have you thought about moving the battery to the engine mount? I have one with two packs in the cowl. I mounted a ply board to the side of the engine box positioned to the bottom of the engine. Then with foam and Velcro straps, put a battery pack on each side of the ply. My engine is inverted, but this could work for a side mounted engine, depending on how the motor box is made.
david
david
#7
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ORIGINAL: Pillzee
Thanks Minn. I guess i will go pick up some fishing lead weights. I will figure out how much I need then melt it into a solid block to make it easier for mounting.
Thanks Minn. I guess i will go pick up some fishing lead weights. I will figure out how much I need then melt it into a solid block to make it easier for mounting.
So they are usually happy to give you a few free handfulls just for the asking!
#8

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I have a new item that my brother and I are making available. We call it 'Steel Powder'. It is indeed a powdered steel that we mix with epoxy. Very dense, very heavy. Cheaper and easier to use than led. It can be molded, pained on, poured into, anywhere you would use epoxy. Great for using behind firewalls, in cowls, nose cones, and the like. It will not come loose, and doubles to strengthen anything is is applies to. Very easy to mix with 15min epoxy and pour in.
Lead is now considered a hazardous material (DO NOT INHALE FUMES FROM MELTING IT) and will be less available as time goes on. Some states are banning it's use even now.
PM me if you would like more information. Here is a picture of it in my Meister cowl.
Lead is now considered a hazardous material (DO NOT INHALE FUMES FROM MELTING IT) and will be less available as time goes on. Some states are banning it's use even now.
PM me if you would like more information. Here is a picture of it in my Meister cowl.
#9

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Here is my process. Just finished doing this for my Meister P-47.
I mix the amount I need right on the scale, adding a couple ounces for what sticks to the container. This time, I used 20min epoxy, because i was mixing over a pound of ballast. This gives you plenty of time to mix it well. Then simply pour it in and work it around where you want it. It is very heavy, very easy, adds strength to whatever you put it on, will never come loose, and is completely safe.
I mix the amount I need right on the scale, adding a couple ounces for what sticks to the container. This time, I used 20min epoxy, because i was mixing over a pound of ballast. This gives you plenty of time to mix it well. Then simply pour it in and work it around where you want it. It is very heavy, very easy, adds strength to whatever you put it on, will never come loose, and is completely safe.
#10
Ilike it. I've used BB's and epoxy before but the idea of havign something that can be appied in a thin layer over a larger surface area could come in very handy at times.
#11

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ORIGINAL: ChuckW
I like it. I've used BB's and epoxy before but the idea of havign something that can be appied in a thin layer over a larger surface area could come in very handy at times.
I like it. I've used BB's and epoxy before but the idea of havign something that can be appied in a thin layer over a larger surface area could come in very handy at times.
If necessary, you can make molds and shape it, as you would led, as well.
#12

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From: Keller, TX
I flew this plane for two years with a Magnum .91 2 stroke, 15X6 prop and enjoyed it immensly. No weight added. The balance problem with this plane is the tail mounted servos, requiring a LOT of weight to balance. I mounted servos under the canopy using pushrods. Makes for a good flying plane.Good luck with yours.
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From: Taylor,
MI
I am currently flying this plane and love it. As far as cg I just used a 2 oz. brass spinner nut. If like mine your landing gear pancakes on a not so lite landing you can get a beefier landing gear, which also helps. I do STRONGLY suggest that when you get tired of paying top dollar for glow fuel that you think of switching over to a DLE 20 cc. I LOVE this engine. All I have to do is move my batteries a little bit and it will balance perfectly.
#15

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From: York,
ME
Try to buy a 25# bag of BB's for reloading shotgun shells. No melting required. Find he correct amount in weight you need then mix in some epoxy and lay in where needed. Stays put with no fasteners.
#16
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From: Matthews,
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Thanks for all the input guys. If I had the money I would certainly put the dle20 in. Besides I love the sound of a gas motor over a glow motor anyways.
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From: Reno,
NV
Pilzee, I have been flying this plane for two plus years with a Magnum 120 4-stroke up front. It balanced with no added weight with the servos in the tail positions. My battery is right on the CG. The weight of the Magnum 120 is 33 ounces. Hope this helps. This is a great flying plane when balanced correctly, I love mine, have worn out two sets of tires so far.
Best regards, old bird.
Best regards, old bird.
#18
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From: Jackson, MI
Bigger engine.
It's also the swap season, you might get lucky and find a used 120. Let your flying buddies know too, someone may have one sitting idle. No substitute for cubic inches!
Ed
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From: Ottawa,
ON, CANADA
Good ideas all.
The brain trust out there is always amazing.
My vote is with MOVING the tail mounted servos to the centre and going pull-pull, or whatever works.
I did this on a Yak and it works just beautifully. EXCELLENT result, even though I had to manufacture my own servo trays, supports, etc...
The corollary: I also totalled a very nice GP 50 size Extra by having tail servos, and a bunch of weight to compensate.
Flew like a brick. Hey, my thumbs, my lazy, etc., so no excuses at all, but it was a brick. I destroyed a perfectly useable airplane by NOT doing the right thing, and moving items forward.
I keep a chunk of THAT mess on the shop wall just to remind me not to get lazy!
IMHO, adding weight is ALWAYS an absolute very last resort, as it is total loss of performance.
MOVE everything to the wing tube area or even farther forward. Make up servo trays, epoxy them in, do the pull-pull if it is possible, etc...
Good Luck!
The brain trust out there is always amazing.
My vote is with MOVING the tail mounted servos to the centre and going pull-pull, or whatever works.
I did this on a Yak and it works just beautifully. EXCELLENT result, even though I had to manufacture my own servo trays, supports, etc...
The corollary: I also totalled a very nice GP 50 size Extra by having tail servos, and a bunch of weight to compensate.
Flew like a brick. Hey, my thumbs, my lazy, etc., so no excuses at all, but it was a brick. I destroyed a perfectly useable airplane by NOT doing the right thing, and moving items forward.
I keep a chunk of THAT mess on the shop wall just to remind me not to get lazy!
IMHO, adding weight is ALWAYS an absolute very last resort, as it is total loss of performance.
MOVE everything to the wing tube area or even farther forward. Make up servo trays, epoxy them in, do the pull-pull if it is possible, etc...
Good Luck!
#21
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From: Matthews,
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I already have the servos mounted in the rear. If I fly it and it feels like it does not want to fly right I will just fly my Twist while I redo all the servo layouts. If I move the servos forward I will have to try and figure out the layout because with duel elevator servos and a pull-pull system it would get really tight close to the tail. I should be able to fly it this weekend and I will let you know how it goes. I just wish there was more mixing options and such on my dx6i

#22
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From: Lacona, NY
I used nails, BB's, bolts, nuts and coins for balancing my aircraft in the past, when I tried to balance the aircraft- and had no GP lead on hand. It all worked just fine! I crashed a plane once and when the coins came out, my friend yelled "Jackpot!"
I wanted to kill him. [:@]
Now I try to avoid adding weight if I can by shifting the battery etc. But if I have to add weight, then I epoxy lead in the plane so if I crash, I won't be so embarrassed.
Pete
I wanted to kill him. [:@]
Now I try to avoid adding weight if I can by shifting the battery etc. But if I have to add weight, then I epoxy lead in the plane so if I crash, I won't be so embarrassed.
Pete




