Gluing Windshield - advice
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Gluing Windshield - advice
Ihave two planes I'm working on and have two windshields Ineed to glue to the fuse.
My PiperCub windshield is cut very close but I've never had good luck with a completely good seal at the bottom of the windshield where it meets the top of the fuse behind the cowl. What's the secret? Are people sealing that space with Monokote?
I have canopy glue that works very well, but I'm still desperate for some expertise / advice please. Thanks!
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
I much prefer using several #2 philips head screws when attaching windshields or canopies. Button heads would be even better, but I have found with #2's the allen wrench will quickly slip in them rendering them useless. Screws, however, only work when there is enough windshield meat to get a good grip on the plastic without distorting it. This is very scale-like on my Hangar 9 1/5 scale cub. Also RC-56 glue works quite well with wide windows.........it dries almost clear.
#5
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
pic 1 - canopy glue &film (Ultracote) - the canopy is glued to the edges of a 1/8" balsa sheet shaped and tapered to match the inside of the canopy exposing 1/8" of wood as seen thru the canopy - so the film was added for cosmetic purposes.
pic 2 - wood screws & tape (tape is Great Planesproduct)
pic 3 - wood screws & film (Ultracote) - this was after a crash-n-rebuild. The canopy was really scratched so Ipainted the inside of the canopy with blue pearl auto paint.
Downside of film trim is that it must be stretched-shrunk to navigate tight turns.
Question to the experts. When working on ARF windshields / canopies, do you cut a strip about 1/16" thru the film exposing raw wood where the canopy meets the fuse or do you just glue over the Mfg's covering?
pic 2 - wood screws & tape (tape is Great Planesproduct)
pic 3 - wood screws & film (Ultracote) - this was after a crash-n-rebuild. The canopy was really scratched so Ipainted the inside of the canopy with blue pearl auto paint.
Downside of film trim is that it must be stretched-shrunk to navigate tight turns.
Question to the experts. When working on ARF windshields / canopies, do you cut a strip about 1/16" thru the film exposing raw wood where the canopy meets the fuse or do you just glue over the Mfg's covering?
#6
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
I'm not an expert by a long way, but yes, get some wood to plastic surface contact. BE VERY careful using CA to hold a canopy in place - first of all it may 'smoke' the inside of the canopy and worse CA + some plastics make the plastic brittle! Don't ask me how I found that last part out
#7
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
I do not cut through the covering. Make sure it is well adhered to the wood prior to installing the canopy. If it is, it will be fine. here is one I did this way, and then painted.
there is more than one way to do this, but I have never had problems with this method. Been at it over 40 years.
there is more than one way to do this, but I have never had problems with this method. Been at it over 40 years.
#9
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
ORIGINAL: tailskid
NICE Job!
NICE Job!
#12
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
ORIGINAL: tailskid
Every time I glue on a canopy something comes lose in that area...put screws in and NOTHING comes lose - go figure
Every time I glue on a canopy something comes lose in that area...put screws in and NOTHING comes lose - go figure
I would say it all starts with making sure the fit is as as good as it can be. Good contact, 360 deg around the canopy, is important. I have had to resort to screws in the past, but it is rare.
#14
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
Follow up on the use of sheet metal screws to hold on the canopy. In a previous post I included a picture of a ShowTime 50 canopy held on by 6 screws along the sides with film over the leading edge.
I just did an engine run-in on a bench at the field. Surprise, the 2 rear screws no longer help holding the canopy on as the canopy cracked and broke around those two screws. This wouldn't have happened if a canopy glue were used.
I just did an engine run-in on a bench at the field. Surprise, the 2 rear screws no longer help holding the canopy on as the canopy cracked and broke around those two screws. This wouldn't have happened if a canopy glue were used.
#15
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
ORIGINAL: SeamusG
Follow up on the use of sheet metal screws to hold on the canopy. In a previous post I included a picture of a ShowTime 50 canopy held on by 6 screws along the sides with film over the leading edge.
I just did an engine run-in on a bench at the field. Surprise, the 2 rear screws no longer help holding the canopy on as the canopy cracked and broke around those two screws. This wouldn't have happened if a canopy glue were used.
Follow up on the use of sheet metal screws to hold on the canopy. In a previous post I included a picture of a ShowTime 50 canopy held on by 6 screws along the sides with film over the leading edge.
I just did an engine run-in on a bench at the field. Surprise, the 2 rear screws no longer help holding the canopy on as the canopy cracked and broke around those two screws. This wouldn't have happened if a canopy glue were used.
I frequently use matching or contrasting covering as a boarder around the canopy on sport planes. War birds are always painted, so that is used over the canopy 'frames'.
I found that Ultracote is nice to use because it requires less heat. It can actually be sealed to a canopy if you keep the iron moving and don't build excessive heat.
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
As a follow-up, I have glued both my TF Cessna 182 and ElectriCub windshields - using no screws. The canopy glue I used while invisible still is not completely transparent and aesthetically I know can be improved somehow I would think. Other than covering up the unsightly uneven glue beneath the plastic edge with a Monokote trim or something, perhaps there's a better glue to use? Not sure.
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
Tailskid, how do you like your Hangar 9 P-51 ARF? Also, the Evolution engine you have installed - what's your experience with that motor? Is that a good combination flyer there? Very curious and interested!!
Jerome
Jerome
#20
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
ORIGINAL: jstrach
Tailskid, how do you like your Hangar 9 P-51 ARF? Also, the Evolution engine you have installed - what's your experience with that motor? Is that a good combination flyer there? Very curious and interested!!
Jerome
Tailskid, how do you like your Hangar 9 P-51 ARF? Also, the Evolution engine you have installed - what's your experience with that motor? Is that a good combination flyer there? Very curious and interested!!
Jerome
Landings are sooooooooooooooo smooth, especially if you have a headwind. If you use flaps (full) on landing, the tail doesn't want to drop, so I've been retracting the flaps right after touchdown - and she will glide if you let her.
Like I said she is my most favorite plane in this size!
Jerry
#21
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RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
ORIGINAL: jstrach
I have two planes I'm working on and have two windshields I need to glue to the fuse.
My PiperCub windshield is cut very close but I've never had good luck with a completely good seal at the bottom of the windshield where it meets the top of the fuse behind the cowl. What's the secret? Are people sealing that space with Monokote?
I have canopy glue that works very well, but I'm still desperate for some expertise / advice please. Thanks!
I have two planes I'm working on and have two windshields I need to glue to the fuse.
My PiperCub windshield is cut very close but I've never had good luck with a completely good seal at the bottom of the windshield where it meets the top of the fuse behind the cowl. What's the secret? Are people sealing that space with Monokote?
I have canopy glue that works very well, but I'm still desperate for some expertise / advice please. Thanks!
Go low if you wanna make a show
Jimmy
#23
Senior Member
RE: Gluing Windshield - advice
A couple of follow-up notes on using any glue to attach the canopy.
The first is make that the structure being glued to is in its "installed" shape. I replaced the 6 screws with RC56 glue to attach the canopy to the hatch but Idid it on the bench - NOT with the hatch installed on the fuse. As a result the hatch's shape changed enough to mis-align the side hatch mounting screws. When trying to apply a bit of persuasion at the field my finger went through the canopy (I believe that is was significantly weakened by painting the underside with auto paint making it very brittle). As a result I fabricated a new hatch and ordered a new canopy from Hanger 9.
The second installation was done with the hatch afixed to the fuse with the side mount screws. The canopy was dry fitted and then marked for installation alignment. Thin 1/16" strips of Ultracote were removed and the RC56 applied. The canopy was installed using the alignment marks. After the glue dried the entire perimeter was covered with matching Ultracote strips using low heat to avoid warping the canopy. The leading edge of the canopy looks a bit like Donald Duck's bill but it's not bad. Everything will be nicely fuel proof.
TTFN
PS- added the pics of the original canopy after painting the underside
The first is make that the structure being glued to is in its "installed" shape. I replaced the 6 screws with RC56 glue to attach the canopy to the hatch but Idid it on the bench - NOT with the hatch installed on the fuse. As a result the hatch's shape changed enough to mis-align the side hatch mounting screws. When trying to apply a bit of persuasion at the field my finger went through the canopy (I believe that is was significantly weakened by painting the underside with auto paint making it very brittle). As a result I fabricated a new hatch and ordered a new canopy from Hanger 9.
The second installation was done with the hatch afixed to the fuse with the side mount screws. The canopy was dry fitted and then marked for installation alignment. Thin 1/16" strips of Ultracote were removed and the RC56 applied. The canopy was installed using the alignment marks. After the glue dried the entire perimeter was covered with matching Ultracote strips using low heat to avoid warping the canopy. The leading edge of the canopy looks a bit like Donald Duck's bill but it's not bad. Everything will be nicely fuel proof.
TTFN
PS- added the pics of the original canopy after painting the underside