Ihave two planes I'm working on and have two windshields Ineed to glue to the fuse.

My PiperCub windshield is cut very close but I've never had good luck with a completely good seal at the bottom of the windshield where it meets the top of the fuse behind the cowl. What's the secret? Are people sealing that space with Monokote?

I have canopy glue that works very well, but I'm still desperate for some expertise / advice please. Thanks!</p>

I use extra glue on that area, so it runs down and becomes a fillet when installed and taped in place.

Ditto - then if there are any gaps once it dries, put a bead of glue around the corner as a fillet. Wipe away any excess with water.

I much prefer using several #2 philips head screws when attaching windshields or canopies. Button heads would be even better, but I have found with #2's the allen wrench will quickly slip in them rendering them useless. Screws, however, only work when there is enough windshield meat to get a good grip on the plastic without distorting it. This is very scale-like on my Hangar 9 1/5 scale cub. Also RC-56 glue works quite well with wide windows.........it dries almost clear.

pic 1 - canopy glue &amp;film (Ultracote) - the canopy is glued to the edges of a 1/8" balsa sheet shaped and tapered to match the inside of the canopy exposing 1/8" of wood as seen thru the canopy - so the film was added for cosmetic purposes.
pic 2 - wood screws &amp; tape (tape is Great Planesproduct)
pic 3 - wood screws &amp; film (Ultracote) - this was after a crash-n-rebuild. The canopy was really scratched so Ipainted the inside of the canopy with blue pearl auto paint.

Downside of film trim is that it must be stretched-shrunk to navigate tight turns.

Question to the experts. When working on ARF windshields / canopies, do you cut a strip about 1/16" thru the film exposing raw wood where the canopy meets the fuse or do you just glue over the Mfg's covering?

I'm not an expert by a long way, but yes, get some wood to plastic surface contact. BE VERY careful using CA to hold a canopy in place - first of all it may 'smoke' the inside of the canopy and worse CA + some plastics make the plastic brittle! Don't ask me how I found that last part out

I do not cut through the covering. Make sure it is well adhered to the wood prior to installing the canopy. If it is, it will be fine. here is one I did this way, and then painted.

there is more than one way to do this, but I have never had problems with this method. Been at it over 40 years.

NICE Job!

Thank you. Personally, I just don't like screws in canopies. i try to avoid them if at all possible. I recently found out that Elmer's white glue is the same stuff as RC 56 canopy glue. Much less expensive, also dries clear, and works just as well.

ram - Thanks for sharing!

You set the bar pretty high

Every time I glue on a canopy something comes lose in that area...put screws in and NOTHING comes lose - go figure

I know what you are saying. I have to resist the urge to unwrap it to soon. You always want to get that wow effect. But when I wait till the cloudiness is all gone from the glue (completely dry), I rarely have anything come loose, even in crashes.

I would say it all starts with making sure the fit is as as good as it can be. Good contact, 360 deg around the canopy, is important. I have had to resort to screws in the past, but it is rare.

Thank you for the nice compliment. I enjoy this stuff, can ya tell.

Follow up on the use of sheet metal screws to hold on the canopy. In a previous post I included a picture of a ShowTime 50 canopy held on by 6 screws along the sides with film over the leading edge.

I just did an engine run-in on a bench at the field. Surprise, the 2 rear screws no longer help holding the canopy on as the canopy cracked and broke around those two screws. This wouldn't have happened if a canopy glue were used.

Good example of what can happen. Useful post.

I frequently use matching or contrasting covering as a boarder around the canopy on sport planes. War birds are always painted, so that is used over the canopy 'frames'.

I found that Ultracote is nice to use because it requires less heat. It can actually be sealed to a canopy if you keep the iron moving and don't build excessive heat.

As a follow-up, I have glued both my TF Cessna 182 and ElectriCub windshields - using no screws.  The canopy glue I used while invisible still is not completely transparent and aesthetically I know can be improved somehow I would think. Other than covering up the unsightly uneven glue beneath the plastic edge with a Monokote trim or something, perhaps there's a better glue to use?  Not sure.

I've used Pacer's RC/56 and that dries pretty clear. I usually add a drop of water to the actual glue to thin it out so it doesn't clump up and you can see where it is and where it isn't.

Tailskid, how do you like your Hangar 9 P-51 ARF? Also, the Evolution engine you have installed - what's your experience with that motor? Is that a good combination flyer there? Very curious and interested!!

Jerome<br type="_moz" />

Goop works best you can get it at the hobbie shop

Jerome, that is MY FAVORITE plane! Bet I have 50-60 flights on her and I love her to death! VERY fast with that engine (usually starts on first flip if I choke it first); idles great. The robart are holding up well and have not let me down (or up) My biggest complaint is that the wings are getting a bit 'lose' as the right trailing has a tendency to move up/down 1/16th - 1/32.

Landings are sooooooooooooooo smooth, especially if you have a headwind. If you use flaps (full) on landing, the tail doesn't want to drop, so I've been retracting the flaps right after touchdown - and she will glide if you let her.

Like I said she is my most favorite plane in this size!

Jerry

Williams brothers cockpit coaming Get the small to medium stuff depending on the size of your plane, and attach it to the windshield edges where it meets the fuse works great!

Go low if you wanna make a show
Jimmy

I second that.

A couple of follow-up notes on using any glue to attach the canopy.

The first is make that the structure being glued to is in its "installed" shape. I replaced the 6 screws with RC56 glue to attach the canopy to the hatch but Idid it on the bench - NOT with the hatch installed on the fuse. As a result the hatch's shape changed enough to mis-align the side hatch mounting screws. When trying to apply a bit of persuasion at the field my finger went through the canopy (I believe that is was significantly weakened by painting the underside with auto paint making it very brittle). As a result I fabricated a new hatch and ordered a new canopy from Hanger 9.

The second installation was done with the hatch afixed to the fuse with the side mount screws. The canopy was dry fitted and then marked for installation alignment. Thin 1/16" strips of Ultracote were removed and the RC56 applied. The canopy was installed using the alignment marks. After the glue dried the entire perimeter was covered with matching Ultracote strips using low heat to avoid warping the canopy. The leading edge of the canopy looks a bit like Donald Duck's bill but it's not bad. Everything will be nicely fuel proof.

TTFN

PS- added the pics of the original canopy after painting the underside