mschulz531

I recently purchased a GoldWing RC Su-26m and I looked around for a build thread on this plane and haven't found one. It might take me a while to finish the build, but I'm going to give this a shot anyway. Hopefully some experienced folks will be able to chime in as I raise questions. This will be my first gasser (DLE-30cc) and I know I'll have questions about the gas tank and overall fuel system setup. I also know there is a bunch of info on gas setups out there, so I promise to try keep my questions and observations relevant to the fuel system setup for this airframe. Feel free to comment as I go along.
-Mike

mschulz531

I purchased the Goldwing RC Su-26m from Valley View hobbies along with a DLE-30 in a package deal.
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/Sukhoi%20Su-26m.htm
I can't say enough for the friendly and prompt customer service from this company both before and after the sale.

So here's the first few pics:

kerwin50

I can't wait to see more, I'm building a GW MX2

mschulz531

I encountered my first glitch last night. When installing the aileron on the wing, I though I checked everything three times, then applied CA to the hinges. Only after this was done did I notice that the inside edge of the aileron is raised about 1/8 of an inch above the top surface of the wing.

I'm debating on what to do: ignore the problem and hope it doesn't affect the flight characteristics, or fix the problem. If I fix the problem, then I have a question which is: what is the best way to fix it? My thought is that the innermost hinge appears to be the only hinge slot that was out of alignment, so I could just cut that hinge in half, bend the aileron slightly to cut a new hinge slot, and try to squeeze another CA hingeinto the new slot without removing the aileron from the wing.

The following picture seems to show the problem most clearly...the bright area on the aileron is above the wing surface. Sure wish I would have noticed this *before* I glued the hinges!

Anyone have any comments on this issue?

flygilmore

I would deff. fix that if it were mine!!

On another note, I bought a 100cc Yak55M off a local guy NIB. It came from Milehighrc. The ball links that they supplied were a d@mn joke....instead of threading on the turnbuckles, they could be slid on and off!!!!!![X(] Needless to say, I am not real happy about having to buy new ball links but am super greatful I found out on the bench instead of the hard way!!

PSJDBF

mschulz531 I have one of these which I originally had a tunigy 30cc in I have now re powered it with a DLE 30cc.
I lost my first one when the screws on the aileron servo's wound out due to vibration & the servo Arm slipped off in a loop, I now use thread lock on all the servo screws with gas engines.
A vid of mine posted on utube of the first flights with the dle & first flight with the TME smart smoker.
Good luck with your build, I love this plane...one thing the landing gear supplied bends easily I brought some carbon fibre gear from Graph Tec RC #194 Goldberg Su main gear which is good but very firm, not alot of give in it, I ripped out my gear block this week I think because the fibre gear is to firm It was a perfect landing but the block must have been cracked prior to this flight so am switching back to the original gear supplied. I used some fishing trace & small turnbuckles on the old gear so that it couldn't flex/spread out to much & create a prop strike & that seemed to work well, will post some pics of that when I find them.
Once again all the best.
Steff.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AK6KbHqgAXc

nitro wing

My Feedback: (1)

Peak used to sell this, too fragile for gas motor in the 30cc class. I had 2 of them, flies well, looks good, just dont overburden with big motors and extra junk.

mschulz531

flygilmore,
Thanks for the polite encouragement to fix the aileron problem...I have done exactly that. Don't know what I was thinking!
The ball links provided with the Su-26m appear to be of decent quality - nothing "slips on and off" - everything is threaded or bolted.
I'll post a few photos tonight of the hardware - I'm working on the aileron linkages right now.
-Mike

mschulz531

Well, I was able to resolve the misaligned aileron problem this weekend. I had to remove the aileron by cutting the hinges, realign, cut new hinge slots, and reconnect the aileron. Not really too hard, and thanks for the encouragement "if it was my plane, I'd fix that". My dad has been in and out of the hospital lately and so I've not been thinking clearly about things like this. Of course I should fix it; what was I thinking?

Anyway, the ailerons are connected and the wing servos are mounted. Next is to install the aileron linkage hardware. The supplied hardware includes a long 3.5mm bolt that goes through a plywood panel inside the aileron and a small nut to secure the bolt to the aileron. As I look at this, I wonder if it would make sense to put a washer or some other hardware between the nut and the bolt to provide a more secure (and larger) area of contact around the bolt going through the aileron. If a washer is in order, should it be plastic or is a metal washer acceptable? I thought a plastic washer might avoid some amount of vibration of metal on metal. Perhaps someone who built this ARF or a similar one would comment on how they handled the aileron connector hardware?

Thanks,
Mike

mschulz531

PSJDBF,
Thanks for the info. I have a DLE-30 as well. I plan on using thread lock on all screws. My concern about the aileron mounting blocks is that they seem very lightweight - just a small thin piece of plywood mounted in the servo bay inside the wing. Maybe I need to reinforce this somehow.
The landing gear seems to be fairly sturdy and very light. Not sure if it is aluminum painted black or carbon fiber.
-Mike

mschulz531

I have a question about theball linkjoints - how many should come with this kit? I think I'm missing a few. The way I count it, there should be 2 per aileron servo, 4 for the pull pull rudder system, and 2 for the elevator servo (single servo elevator setup). That makes 10 ball link joints. I can only find 6 in my kit.

Also, what is the best way to connect the ball link to the servo horn?

kerwin50

on my MX 4 of the ball links were on the rudder cables.
Alot of guys put a small washer beteewn the bolt head and the ball link

mschulz531

I've managed to find time to finish the wings. A few pictures are attached. Next step: landing gear.
-Mike

mschulz531

Did some more work on the Su-26m tonight. Put the landing gear on. I love when holes are pre-drilled for me, but not so much when they don't line up! Oh well, a small round file was enough to "move" the hole so the landing gear holes lined up and I could get the four screws into place.

mschulz531

I've read some other posts stating that the landing gear are not very sturdy. I took some pics of the landing gear on the SU-26 and it appears to be fairly sturdy to me - the landing gear are sandwiched between two plywood plates, and the plywood seems to be fairly thick. Is this the same setup that others are complaining about being too weak?

mschulz531

I was on a roll tonight so I mounted the tail wheel and the rudder. This went together pretty well; I soldered a washer to the tail wheel wire since the kit only came with one tail wheel collar and the wire is too narrow for two wheel collars. It was nice that the groove and hole in the rudder was pre-drilled.

mschulz531

The airframe is finally able to stand on it's own! Very exciting...took a few pics of the fuselage on it's feet:

microdon2

My Feedback: (47)

mschultz - nice looking plane! I'll be following the rest of your build thread. Won't start working on my Sukhoi until I get a job, which hopefully will be soon. Then I'll install a DLE30 (which I already have). As mentioned in the other thread, I have a Carl Goldberg 72.5" Su26m.

mschulz531

microdon2,
The Carl Goldberg Sukhoi you have - is that a kit or an ARF?
-Mike

kerwin50

Looking good, Your landing gear block set-up is alot differnt than the MX2's.
I replaced the ring in my DLE 30 before I even started it with a Frank Bowman the ringmaster ring. I couldn't believe just how brittle the DLE ring is. I broke it taking it off.
I started it up. Now It did take a few flips. 1st I opened it up WOT, choked it. and with the ING off I kept turning the prop, watching the fuel being drawing up the fuel line and wetting the carb barrel.
Now I had already adjusted the neddles at 1 3/4 turns. With a buddy holding the plane at 1/4 throttle I started flipping her. 5Th flip she roared to life.
With a TP power point I got 8100 r's and idle at 1600. could of went lower but she was really shaking.

mschulz531

Started working on the elevators recently...was thinking about going with dual elevator servos, but then kerwin50 mentioned in another thread (on rcg) that he has an MX2 30cc Goldwing kit and he used dual elevator servos on it and he doesn't like how it balances...too tail heavy, I think. So now I have a dilemma - should I stick with two elevator servos and just deal with the balancing issue, or go with one elevator servo? I have Hitec HS-5485HB servos for aileron/elevator and rudder, but I recently acquired a Gotek 5515 from GMP which I was going to put on the rudder since it is so powerful. Perhaps I should put it on the elevator and go with a single elevator servo? I have not used a dual-elevator servo setup before, but I know my transmitter can handle it - I checked!.

Anyway, here's what I've got so far:

kerwin50

Are those removable stabs?

mschulz531

Yes - that's another reason I wanted to go with dual elevator servos - so I have the flexibility to remove the elevator halves for transport.
I'm leaning towards keeping two elevator servos and just dealing with the balancing issues.
Have you had any success with balancing yet?

kerwin50

I'm thinking that my single bolt prop adaptor is going to balance her fine, of course I'm no 3D'er so I'll need a little forward cg to begin with

simon xk8

hi chaps just to let ya no we have had this plane in england for a while , and its great but there are a few probs with landing gear , you do need to reinforce around the mounting plate for landing gear , anything but the most gentle of landings the ply plate WILL pull out the glue used is not the best , and the landing legs themselves will just spread out , soft ally used if poss use the glassfibre after market gear availible or use a trace wire to stop legs spreading out , everything else is very good flys like a dream , slow landing can do all the tricks in the book