ARF's have come a long way over the years but it seems that the hardware (control horns, linkages, spinners, tanks, etc) which is usually supplied with the ARF is somewhat questionable.

My question is this:

1. Do you usually replace the hardware which is supplied with the ARF?

2. Do you know of an ARF or ARF manufacturer who supplies quality hardware with their ARF? If so, post it here!

I'm interested in hearing the replies.

Have fun!

Of the poll choices offered, I had to answer sometimes.

Once upon a time it was uniformly so bad I would've thrown all supplied ARF hardware out. But The World Models Mfg. ARFs and their quality control standards have changed that.

Although still by no means having achieved the standard of DuBro, Sullivan or Great Planes et al in their accessory range, nevertheless the quality of hardware as supplied with World Models ARFs is IME all definitely usable (safe) and offers acceptable (reliable) performance for sport flying.

That it does the job deters me replacing hardware unless absolutely necessary, which amounts to a massive $$$ saving. Presumably this is why the local distributors of Du Bro et al, have over recent years reduced their outrageous retail pricing significantly as an enticement to modellers to maintain the quite economically painful practice of replacing hardware items now that it's no longer a necessity?

I have several WM ARFs. I found their hardware very usable also.

Vector Flight uses Dave Brown motor mounts, Sullivan fuel tanks and dubro hardware. Don't have to replace nothing!

ARF's - Do you replace the hardware?

Only if I am going to fly the plane-- some is better than others,but I always replace about half of it.

I usually find something that I'd like to change, but for the most part I've used the hardware that comes with ARFs. For example, I didn't replace anything in my Kyosho Majestic but did replace the control linkages and the rudder control horn on my UCD. I don't think I'll be replacing the hardware that will come with my Comp-Arf Extra, but then again I definitely paid enough to get decent hardware with it.

I usually replace somthing in an arf but I never replace it all.
James

we replace at least half for sure the strategic stuff.

It pretty much depends on a few things. The size of the plane & money involved. The power as I like to overpower my planes, & finally the quality of the supplied hardware.

Gil

I replace some stuff. Mainly the 4-40 and other american threads for metric. Not because I have to, but I haven't got a clue what the UK equivalent is. If its all metric in your own fleet of models it makes life easier. Sometimes have trouble replacing american thread stuff on this side of the pond.

Rob

rob g

I certainly understand your reasoning for replacing the AMST threaded parts with metric. That is the first thing that I do except the opposite way. I replace all of the metric threaded parts with AMST (American Standard) parts. It just makes it easier when you olny have to stock those parts that are most common to you.
We call this "Teaching the airplane American".

Most of the time I replace approx. 1/2 of the hardware that comes with any ARF.
After being in this hobby for approx. 35 yrs I have developed my particular likes and dislikes. And I am always willing to use a better stronger safer method.
Lee

I replace as many of the metric bolts and screws with SAE that I can. It makes things easier later on as replacements are easy to find... It also make finding the correct wrench or ball driver easier... I also replace the 2mm push rods with 2-56 or better, depending upon the size of the ARF. I will also use real axles over bolts whenever possible. I will use the supplies control horns, especially the ones from World Models, but usually replace the clevises with metal DuBro or Great Planes.

I replace the metric nuts and bolts right off. I do not want to take a chance of getting them mixed in with my other hardware. I keep a rather large supply of hardware as I tend to build at night, so repacement is not dificult.

If I have to make a field repair I know I will have the right hardware in my field kit.

I do put the metric nuts and bolts away where it can't get mixed with the other hardware and save it for emergencies.

I tend to upgrade hardware on most of my planes, metric or not as many come with cheap parts.

Whenever I find something that is questionable for strength it goes out and SAE stuff comes in. But like Galen said I too replace most of the metric stuff. If it is of decent strength it will go on the aircraft but whats left (metric) never gets mixed in with my other stuff (SAE). I'd say probably half gets thrown out right away.

I answered "Not usually" Only because I do all of my ARF building for reviews. When reviewing a plane, I always use the hardware provided because I must assume that someone out there would. I have only had one ARF where the hardware was so bad it had to be replaced before flying.

However, 3 of the ARF's had very good hardware, and the last two used name brand stuff:

Lanier's Mariner 40: Sullivan
Midwest's Aerobat: Du-Bro

Note: these reviews will be posted when the new site is up.

OK, heres a deal. You send me all your metric, and you can have my american stuff

Cheers
Rob

Just this weekend a friend was flying a Slow Poke and used stock hardware. The airplane came with nylon clevises. He used fuel hose to hold the clevis closed, but the elevator nylon clevis opened. I heard the elevator flutter as the the clevis opened and then she flipped over and nosed in hard. Total loss. He is packing the left overs up to ship back for consideration. I would do the same.

I haven't been in the hobby nearly as long as many of you, but learned from experienced friends and what I have observed to throw away most of it. I just don't understand why the manufactures don't add a little to the price and put quality hardware in all ARF kits. I had two stock fuel tanks leak when I was first learning because the stoppers came out. What a mess. Never again. Use Debros or Hayes and has not happened since. I also dislike those adjustable motor mounts. The engine moves around. Then theres the metric stuff. Like you guys, throw that away too. Don't like the sponge wheels. Get flat spots. How about those Phillips head screws with heads that strip so easily if you put a little CA in the thread holes as instructed. Socket heads solved this problem.

rob g

Cheers for you on the exchange of hardware. That would be an excellent except for the distance appart. Good Idea anyway.

I use socket head screws on everything, even the wheel collars.

I do not use adjustable motor mounts. I only use the one piece composit such as Dave Brown and others. I also use 1 piece aluminum mounts.

A note on the socket head screws. They make everything much more field repairable.
good flying
Lee