chaos2984

sorry to hear that rcmadness.  Do you think i overheated my enigne (cowl was off on the maiden).  on the first flight. 

What are you going to order the hangar 9 again or the topflite version??

rcmadnessp51

My Feedback: (5)

I don't think with the cowl off that you over heated, all though you could have if your jetting was lean, it may explain the dead stick landing. The day I maidend mine with the 16x8 (cowl on)it was 95+deg F. outside and my telemetry sensor was reading well over 300 deg F.The motor was rich on the high needle keeping me from peak rpm.

I ordered another Hanger 9.

Thanks, and good luck to you.

chaos2984

well ill just keep rebuilding and try it again this time with the cowl on and such    Where did you mount your batteries ??

rcmadnessp51

My Feedback: (5)

I had them mounted with velcro to the bottom of the rudder and elevator servos, this was to get the c.g. at 4.5 inches.

4.8 volt nimh x 1500 ma. you may want to go with larger packs at least on your rx, a 2000 would probably be ok.

chaos2984

I'm using a 2 cell lipo 2750 mah with regulator down to 6 volts.  and using a 5 cell 1600 for ignition.

rcmadnessp51

My Feedback: (5)

Sounds like you have got it covered.

kiwibob72

Firstly, sorry to hear you lost her ... really gutted for you!

With the batteries, your not running spectrum are you? .... I have herd of brown out issues with the 4.8 packs when they get low. I have 5 cell Nimh (6volt) in my planes and heli (on spectrum DSM2), and never once have had the dreaded brown out issue. The newer DSMX receivers are meant to perform better at lower voltages.

With 9 servos in this thing (all digital metal geared), I'm considering that 9ch rx that the do with twin battery inputs so you (I) have power redundancy built in. It'll mean 3 batteries all up, but rather a few more grams than the other alternative.

rcmadnessp51

My Feedback: (5)

Spectrum, yes. And I had a suspicion that something was up with the pack before I took off but proceeded any way, Stupid move on my part. I was to anxious to show her off to my buddies and I should have grounded it. The "oh it will be all right for one flight and then I will check it" bit me in the a**. My Rx was reading 5.1 volts on take off, after a few laps I looked again and it was at 4.8-6, thats when I new I had a problem, I threw out the gear and then the flaps, I was in the base turn when it simply stayed in the turn and rolled inI look forward to the next one and will do things a bit different, I like you redundant idea I had considered this but in the interest of saving ounces chose not to.

I still say its a good flyer!!!

kiwibob72

They do a whole range of them now days (re the 'Powersafe' rx's), but this is the one I'm looking into : [link]http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SPMAR9110[/link]

rcmadnessp51

My Feedback: (5)

Nice, I would say that is a good choice.

kiwibob72

So when are you expecting your replacement fuse to arrive?

rcmadnessp51

My Feedback: (5)

Should arive by the end of the week, or monday.

kiwibob72

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!

rcmadnessp51

My Feedback: (5)

I havent seen any progress here Kiwibob? Wondering if you have finished her yet. I havent even taken my new one out of the box yet, LOL.

kiwibob72

As sad as it seems, I put her on hold when we moved out for post earthquake house repairs back in about April/May, and didn't get back onto her since moving back in 7 weeks later.
That said, as my Dad's (and Mum) coming down for an Xmas visit this Friday, I thought I'd try and finish it with him while he's here - if possible. I'd like to fire that DLE20 to see how that thing runs also.
While flying' been taking a back seat with work, house, family and other stuff (micro electric 3D heli has been filling the void), the Yak54 I set up as a low wing trainer is getting what little attention I can give my planes at the moment. Hoping to get a sneaky session in this Sunday to get more stick time as last time I flew it post some strengthening alterations on the elevator, the CG was WAY to aft, made take off, banking and level flight 'interesting' to say the least, though we got her back in one piece in the end.
CG is now sorted, and she is waiting for that re-re-re- maiden (LOL)

Does your winter prevent working indoors re yours still being in the box?? lmao - like I can talk!

kiwibob72

While I have been slack with my efforts on the mustang for some time, I have started back on her working through the bits and bobs that need doing when I have had some time available. At this point, I have installed the tail fins, cut the spinner bolt down, and done the opening where my (non- Jtech) pitts sticks through the side of the cowl.
While I was hoping to keep all of the motor and muffler fully inboard, that was not to be. While a bit disappointing, the end result means that I have part of the exhaust in the airflow, which will aid in cooling some. Aside from that, more hot air can easily get out of the cowl with the extra exit point, which should hopefully aid in keeping the motor cooler and remove some of the issues others had with this motor/airframe combo. The pics don't do justice to the gap around the exhaust, it's just tight enough, while allowing room for the motor to move due to load and vibration.
I am HOPING to get some of the tails surface servo's and the tail wheel installed this weekend.
That aside, I won't be flying her for a while, as I still need to get the power redundancy system for the receiver and servos ([link]http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25187__Turnigy_Min_Power_Distributor_RED_.html[/link]), all 3 flights batteries (one of them is for the CDI on the motor), and a suitable receiver to run the thing on.

biffster55

I guess that's been my problem! Everytime I take her up she overheats, engine stops and deadstick! I have DLE 20's in two other planes don't have that problem. I cut out an area at bottom of cowl, but at the top of cowl. I will try that.

kiwibob72

Aside from running her a little richer, 'TinkermanRC' on youtube had a good idea to keep cool air running to the carb ..... [link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7sekkFFBZ-A[/link]

RBean

I have the Top Flite Mustang with a DLE 20. I had a lot of engine problems until I figured out it was vapor lock because the carb was getting too hot because the muffler can of the Pitts muffler was right under the carb. I installed air ducts from the scoop under the spinner, over the motor mounts to above and to each side of the carb, and then an air dam/flange just in front of the exhaust exit, creating a high pressure area above the carb and a low pressure area below drawing the air over the carb and the heat from the muffler down and out. It worked. No more engine over heat/vapor lock problems. I will post pictures later if I can find them.

RBean

Here are the pictures. I think the Hanger 9 has more room in the cowl so the problem may not be as bad. I had so many engine outs and off field landings etc and the plane was so beat up I refinished it as a RAAF Mustang IV after I got the engine problems sorted out. Incidentally the plane flys and handles great, the proof being that it is still here after so many engine failures before I figured out the problem.

ThunderBoat42

My Feedback: (1)

This is the EXACT thing that happened to an ESM P51... word for word. Are you useing electric gear? The added power consumption of the flaps deploying and gear sucked the power down to a low 3.7 on the telemetry data...then a brown out... post crash was reading almost 6. I am going with 2 batteries and off one isloated to the gear direct (using the robart with the down and locked power box). with one battery I would go with two leads to keep the capacity up in peak power spikes.

kiwibob72

Well, I'm FINALLY back on the blue nose. Got a dual battery power distributor for her ex hobbyking (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...utor_RED_.html) as I'm not really interested in a brownout induced crash with her having at least 9 digital metal geared servos in her, even if I am looking to get one of these new Taranis 16ch radio systems that a re a lot less susceptible to brown out than my DSM2 system that I have at the moment.

Fitted the tail wheel and rudder control today after installing the rear surface servos in her during the week. After a lot of swearing and cursing getting the tail wheel locked in and tightened up fully, I have discovered that this is not really a job for anyone with stocky 'man' fingers as it took over an hour to get it all put together nice and neat.
From here, I'm looking to get the motor install all finalized, locate the motor battery and CDI up front and just open the fire wall a smidge to stop the choke butterfly and rear bolts touching.
I'm still at a loss on the tank as the factory one does not fit as intended with the DLE20 (it stops the bung from poking through the fire wall. I might invest in a much smaller durbro 'step down' tank so it can sit in the space behind the firewall (gas allows for longer run times anyhow). Still debating that one though (can't block the throttle linkage).
I'm looking to power up the main wings and put the gear down as I am interested to see her on her own feet for the first time, as I want to see her 'standing' stance and if she looks 'right' or not.
Onwards and upwards I guess.

kiwibob72

Was also a bit miffed to find out that the DLE20 now has a new RA (rear exhaust) option, as this would have fitted into the cowl with NOTHING but the spark plug lead and the exhaust tips poking out - no cutting on the side of the cowl for the pitts muffler like I (and others) have had to do!! ... grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/DLE20RAENGINE.html

kiwibob72

OK, I got the elevators set up and connected to their servo. Oddly enough, the thread on the two out of three of the tail fin supplied push rods was so bad that I ended up having to get some new rods from a local hobby shop just to get it all together. It's little things like this (and the odd sized retract servo openings) that does get me wondering why I spent so much on this fuse over say a top flight one at almost half the price.
Regardless, I'm now another step along the process to getting this bird ready to fly. Just got to connect the rudder link attached to the servo and buttoned up, then it's onto the tank setup and finalizing of the motor, it's battery, and the CDI ignition before CG and receiver/flight batteries positioning.
We're starting to get there at last!

Robert Groves

Hi Bob, and RCMadness, been reading the threads like crazy over the last few days.
My BN is just about done, going back to the flaps as i have different play on the different servers. Bit of a struggle running them off a Y and not alt channels.
Should be done for some ground tests this afternoon maybe or tomorrow.
Running a DLE20, first gasser which is new, thinking of a tank of gas through before getting her airborne? is this the right strategy or break in in the air even for tank 1?
This plane clearly needs power and need this to be reliable.

thanks

RG