Flyzone Select Scale Super Cub
#28
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From: Viña del Mar, Chile
Anyway, the plane is built and looks OK from a small distance but if you look at it close, all the areas that had to be fixed come to light...
As I unpacked it and started building it, found that the wing´s leading edge was opened at the seam - had to glue it with CA and reinforced it with packing (transparent) tape... the elevator is not flat as it should be and haven´t been able to get it straight without breaking it... it is not terribly bad but I imagine it will affect its flight characteristics some... when installing the elevator, the wire wouldn´t work well as the installed tube was too close to the side instead of the center of the fuselage as it should have been... Had to cut a piece of the side of the fuse in order to get it to function (changing the tube would have been major surgery). One of the control wires (pushrods) was missing from the kit. The space for the receiver (micro) is very tight and opted to install it in the cabin as this would make more room for a battery in the battery compartment which is also very tight (I guess they made it this way so that Hobbico batteries are used). The cowl was totally crooked and really don´t know how they installed it as the motor shaft and the prop adapter wouldn´t fit it. Had to carve the hole in order to get it off... also, the little rubber spinner I think will last for the photo session as it will fly away as the engine is turned on... no way to hold it in place and glue is out of the question since if you have to change props, you´ll be in trouble if you glue it.
Anyway, I´m kind of disappointed with the kit´s quality as I compare it with other manufacturers of RTF or PNF models...
Other issues: The way the pushrods are, you´d better pray that when you build it things turn out fairly well as there is no way to conveniently adjust them once the model is built. There are no clevises to turn and the wires are so soft that bent when the servo screws were tightened... getting to the servos, due to the many screws holding the landing gear, wing struts (which are the best part of the kit) and wing is something you may not want to do at the field if required. Would have been a lot better to provide a hatch at the bottom of the fuse to have easy access to things.
I´m hoping that the plane will fly well and that the trims in the transmitter are enough to correct any problems as I don´t plan to take it apart again. Well, here are my five cents regarding this plane... hope it helps someone.
As I unpacked it and started building it, found that the wing´s leading edge was opened at the seam - had to glue it with CA and reinforced it with packing (transparent) tape... the elevator is not flat as it should be and haven´t been able to get it straight without breaking it... it is not terribly bad but I imagine it will affect its flight characteristics some... when installing the elevator, the wire wouldn´t work well as the installed tube was too close to the side instead of the center of the fuselage as it should have been... Had to cut a piece of the side of the fuse in order to get it to function (changing the tube would have been major surgery). One of the control wires (pushrods) was missing from the kit. The space for the receiver (micro) is very tight and opted to install it in the cabin as this would make more room for a battery in the battery compartment which is also very tight (I guess they made it this way so that Hobbico batteries are used). The cowl was totally crooked and really don´t know how they installed it as the motor shaft and the prop adapter wouldn´t fit it. Had to carve the hole in order to get it off... also, the little rubber spinner I think will last for the photo session as it will fly away as the engine is turned on... no way to hold it in place and glue is out of the question since if you have to change props, you´ll be in trouble if you glue it.
Anyway, I´m kind of disappointed with the kit´s quality as I compare it with other manufacturers of RTF or PNF models...
Other issues: The way the pushrods are, you´d better pray that when you build it things turn out fairly well as there is no way to conveniently adjust them once the model is built. There are no clevises to turn and the wires are so soft that bent when the servo screws were tightened... getting to the servos, due to the many screws holding the landing gear, wing struts (which are the best part of the kit) and wing is something you may not want to do at the field if required. Would have been a lot better to provide a hatch at the bottom of the fuse to have easy access to things.
I´m hoping that the plane will fly well and that the trims in the transmitter are enough to correct any problems as I don´t plan to take it apart again. Well, here are my five cents regarding this plane... hope it helps someone.
#29
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I guess I got lucky. Mine went together quickly, and has been perfect for 6 months now.
You can remove the struts and wing in about 3 minutes. You don't need to remove the landing gear. Just the 2 screws that face rearward (one on each side), and the screws that attach the struts to the wing, and the screw under the fake antenna, that holds the wing down.
I use 1300ma 15C 3S lipo's I get on ebay for about 12 or 13 bucks shipped, and they fit perfectly. I use scotch tape and make a pull tab on the battery, so I don't have to pull on the wires.
I put a male deans plug on the plane, because thats what my cheapie Lipo's come with.
Never had an issue with the control rods. Just set everything at neutral during assembly, and used the sub trims on my DX6i for fine tuning the tx trims to center. Been perfect for 6 months now.
I can't imagine how the tail feathers got warped, but I hear soaking foam parts in hot water makes it go back to it's origional manufactured shape. There's you tube video's about that trick.
I stuck my Orange RX receiver to the side of the fuse, in that area that leads to the cockpit. It does not interfere with battery installation, and I can see the bind light thru the windshield good, I like that.
I didn't need to move any control rod tubes, just slide the wires in and hook em to the ez connectors on the servo arms (after centering the arms on the servo's with the radio gear on of course).
I dunno.... mine has been perfect so far, and i've been flying it almost every day for 6 months.
Im confident that once you get er dialed in, you'll be very happy with it. The hot water soak trick will make your tail parts perfect again.
Just out of curiousity, did you buy it on ebay, or from one of the online stores ? Dennis
You can remove the struts and wing in about 3 minutes. You don't need to remove the landing gear. Just the 2 screws that face rearward (one on each side), and the screws that attach the struts to the wing, and the screw under the fake antenna, that holds the wing down.
I use 1300ma 15C 3S lipo's I get on ebay for about 12 or 13 bucks shipped, and they fit perfectly. I use scotch tape and make a pull tab on the battery, so I don't have to pull on the wires.
I put a male deans plug on the plane, because thats what my cheapie Lipo's come with.
Never had an issue with the control rods. Just set everything at neutral during assembly, and used the sub trims on my DX6i for fine tuning the tx trims to center. Been perfect for 6 months now.
I can't imagine how the tail feathers got warped, but I hear soaking foam parts in hot water makes it go back to it's origional manufactured shape. There's you tube video's about that trick.
I stuck my Orange RX receiver to the side of the fuse, in that area that leads to the cockpit. It does not interfere with battery installation, and I can see the bind light thru the windshield good, I like that.
I didn't need to move any control rod tubes, just slide the wires in and hook em to the ez connectors on the servo arms (after centering the arms on the servo's with the radio gear on of course).
I dunno.... mine has been perfect so far, and i've been flying it almost every day for 6 months.
Im confident that once you get er dialed in, you'll be very happy with it. The hot water soak trick will make your tail parts perfect again.
Just out of curiousity, did you buy it on ebay, or from one of the online stores ? Dennis
#30
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From: Viña del Mar, Chile
HI! Freeonthree... glad that your Cub was perfect, unfortunately mine was as described in the previous post.
Yes, I know that the wing could come off taking only the screws from where the landing gear is attached and the top screw of the wing but, something I didn´t mention is that the screw heads (those 2 actually) were pretty soft on the heads and it is hard now to get them to move with my screwdrivers... will try and find some at the hardware store to replace them (metric).
The foam in the elevators is fine, what is bent is the wire that holds them together and the control horn... I have tried to bend it some but without putting too much pressure as the foam starts to give out. I already had to repair a crack in it.
I also put the receiver in the cockpit and can see the bind light, etc... that is not a problem. Use ArtTech 11.1 1300 mah batteries and they fit but slanted to the back... actually you can see it part of it from the cockpit... the plane seems to balance OK with the equipment the way it is so I will leave it as is. I also had to change the plug from the ESC to a Deans plug - no problem there.
Will give it its maiden tomorrow and I´m hoping that it´ll fly OK... hopefully it will fly as good as yours but, if it doesn´t, still have my good ole "Diamond 1800" which is sweet.
I bought the plane at the Hobby Store in Santiago, Chile. I live in Reñaca, Chile now and that is about 90 miles from Santiago... Started the hobby in New York in 1971, lived 30 years in Greensboro, NC where I did a lot of flying - RC and Real airplanes - and now I am retired here, at the beach, but have not been able to give up the hobby... have a nice field and a group of very nice people to fly with. RC guys are the best...
Stay well...
Yes, I know that the wing could come off taking only the screws from where the landing gear is attached and the top screw of the wing but, something I didn´t mention is that the screw heads (those 2 actually) were pretty soft on the heads and it is hard now to get them to move with my screwdrivers... will try and find some at the hardware store to replace them (metric).
The foam in the elevators is fine, what is bent is the wire that holds them together and the control horn... I have tried to bend it some but without putting too much pressure as the foam starts to give out. I already had to repair a crack in it.
I also put the receiver in the cockpit and can see the bind light, etc... that is not a problem. Use ArtTech 11.1 1300 mah batteries and they fit but slanted to the back... actually you can see it part of it from the cockpit... the plane seems to balance OK with the equipment the way it is so I will leave it as is. I also had to change the plug from the ESC to a Deans plug - no problem there.
Will give it its maiden tomorrow and I´m hoping that it´ll fly OK... hopefully it will fly as good as yours but, if it doesn´t, still have my good ole "Diamond 1800" which is sweet.
I bought the plane at the Hobby Store in Santiago, Chile. I live in Reñaca, Chile now and that is about 90 miles from Santiago... Started the hobby in New York in 1971, lived 30 years in Greensboro, NC where I did a lot of flying - RC and Real airplanes - and now I am retired here, at the beach, but have not been able to give up the hobby... have a nice field and a group of very nice people to fly with. RC guys are the best...
Stay well...
#31
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Well, don't give up on it please. These Cubs are totally dependable once their dialed in good. On my battery door, I cut a notch out on each side of the door so the wires hang down under the plane, and I can plug or unplug them with the plane on it's wheels. Makes it super easy to deal with, not having to stuff it all in the battery compartment. Dennis
#34
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From: Viña del Mar, Chile
The Cub flew well[8D] ... brought it home in one piece and I am ready to practice with it... couldn´t get it to "grease" a landing but luckily the landing gear took the bounces... one thing that I need to control is that, at least for my fingers, it is very touchy on the ground at take off (too much rudder effect?), taxi was OK.
It seems like it flies better at half throttle, do you notice the same on yours?
How do you keep the spinner from falling off?... mine lasted one flight - luckily I found it. Thanks.
It seems like it flies better at half throttle, do you notice the same on yours?
How do you keep the spinner from falling off?... mine lasted one flight - luckily I found it. Thanks.
#35
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I havn't been here in a while. Mine flys fine at full throttle, but im usually just below that for longer flight times. Im on my 5th or 6th set of wheels now because I love landing more than flying. I got away from the foam wheels now so maybe I can get better life out of them now.
I don't log my flights, but I surely have way more than 200 flights on this thing now. When all the gas and nitro guys are messing with their planes, im slamming packs and flying mine. Im really spoiled with this electric stuff now.
Aside from wearing out alot of wheels, this Cub has been trouble free so far. Dennis
I don't log my flights, but I surely have way more than 200 flights on this thing now. When all the gas and nitro guys are messing with their planes, im slamming packs and flying mine. Im really spoiled with this electric stuff now.
Aside from wearing out alot of wheels, this Cub has been trouble free so far. Dennis
#37
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From: Delmont,
PA
Hey willig,
I was looking for a decent size plane for my home area where I have a nice 55acre farm adjoining my property. The Flyzone Super Cub fit the bill. After reading all the threads & postings on several forums, I decided to do all my mods as I assembled it. I removed the cowl & motor & epoxied the inside of the fuse nose, especially around the steel motor mount. I removed the ESC & decided not to use the flimsy wire landing gear. I ordered a Turnigy Aerodrive DST 1200KV motor & Turnigy Plush 30A ESC from HK. Also got a couple APC 8 X 6E props. I fabricated an aluminum landing gear from an old "STOP" sign as it is tempered aluminum & flexes like a shock absorber. I used the 2 5/8" tires from my Sensei hoping for better grass handling w/takeoffs & landings. I added CF strips to the horiz. stab & made struts for strength.
When the new motor came in, the orig. motor mount plastic adapter fit the new motor perfectly with hole alignment. Installed the new ESC & a Spektrum AR400 Rx. A Zippy 3S/25C/1800mah battery fit in the battery bay easily. When it was all done & ready for maiden, I went to our club field where it is very open. The grass takeoff was almost a disaster as the field hadn't been cropped for a few days & the Sensei tires bogged down a bit. With a hand launch, the plane had plenty of power, climbed well, & only a couple of clicks of trim were needed. It flew nicely at half-throttle giving me 10min of flight w/3.74v residual left & 1125mah to recharge. I set my timer to 12min of cruising & used 1560mah.....all was well other than takeoffs/landings in grass. The following week, a trip to my LHS produced some great 4" foam "tundra" tires that did not change CG or flight characteristics & made grass takeoffs/landings a breeze. I managed to get 3S/2200 mah batteries to fit after removing the Velcro from them & now my cruising flight times are near 15min cruising. All is well now. Here's some pics...
Additional note: I had to reduce the rudder travel to 50% on my Tx as the rudder had excessive travel & now turns much better. Also, I used an E-Flight collet spinner to attach the prop.
Denny
I was looking for a decent size plane for my home area where I have a nice 55acre farm adjoining my property. The Flyzone Super Cub fit the bill. After reading all the threads & postings on several forums, I decided to do all my mods as I assembled it. I removed the cowl & motor & epoxied the inside of the fuse nose, especially around the steel motor mount. I removed the ESC & decided not to use the flimsy wire landing gear. I ordered a Turnigy Aerodrive DST 1200KV motor & Turnigy Plush 30A ESC from HK. Also got a couple APC 8 X 6E props. I fabricated an aluminum landing gear from an old "STOP" sign as it is tempered aluminum & flexes like a shock absorber. I used the 2 5/8" tires from my Sensei hoping for better grass handling w/takeoffs & landings. I added CF strips to the horiz. stab & made struts for strength.
When the new motor came in, the orig. motor mount plastic adapter fit the new motor perfectly with hole alignment. Installed the new ESC & a Spektrum AR400 Rx. A Zippy 3S/25C/1800mah battery fit in the battery bay easily. When it was all done & ready for maiden, I went to our club field where it is very open. The grass takeoff was almost a disaster as the field hadn't been cropped for a few days & the Sensei tires bogged down a bit. With a hand launch, the plane had plenty of power, climbed well, & only a couple of clicks of trim were needed. It flew nicely at half-throttle giving me 10min of flight w/3.74v residual left & 1125mah to recharge. I set my timer to 12min of cruising & used 1560mah.....all was well other than takeoffs/landings in grass. The following week, a trip to my LHS produced some great 4" foam "tundra" tires that did not change CG or flight characteristics & made grass takeoffs/landings a breeze. I managed to get 3S/2200 mah batteries to fit after removing the Velcro from them & now my cruising flight times are near 15min cruising. All is well now. Here's some pics...
Additional note: I had to reduce the rudder travel to 50% on my Tx as the rudder had excessive travel & now turns much better. Also, I used an E-Flight collet spinner to attach the prop.
Denny
Last edited by yorkiepap; 08-12-2014 at 04:55 PM.
#38
I just got mine assembled. I removed the 18amp ESC and bought an e-flite 30A esc and installed it. Also removed the Tactic receiver and installed a Futaba 6 channel receiver in it's place. Went to go maiden it this morning but the winds were way to high. Looking at the Horizontal stab the stabs are drooping and I bought some carbon Fiber rod and will glue it on the bottom to get the stabs back to vertical like they are supposed to be.
Glenn
Glenn




