sseward,

Thanks for your help.

I am able to get the gear and pant assembled using the needlenose and patience method.

BTW, I received 2 right side pants in the arf. I called Tower and they said they would send me a left side.

Thanks again for the help.

Airroy

This morning around 1AM I started on the Landing Gear / Wheel Pants! After several long hours of work I finally finished them. Both turned out just great although I am going to add Robart Alum wheels to the pants. The foam Tires are not going to hold up!

Here is some Photo's of what I have done so far!

Dude, I really need to get back on my Gee Bee...
I got up to the landing gear and servo's... IM using Robarts on mine... and its been sitting up there for about 6 months now...
Cant find the will to go and get on it... lol

Thats the way I felt about My GB at first. When I purchased the plane I just couldnt get into building it. After trying to sell it with no luck, I started looking at it sitting in the box.

Next thing I knew I had her out laying the decals on everything to get a better ideal of what she is going to look like once completed, I am very glad I did.

It has become one of my all time favorite's,,

I don't want to come off sounding like a know-it-all but, landing the Gee Bee's is not much different than landing a highly wing loaded war bird. I have flown all the Gee Bee's except the Model Y and have never stalled or flipped a plane yet. And I am not bragging as a pilot, because I don't think that I am that exceptional as an RC pilot.

Here are a couple of things I have learned to watch for in flying the Gee Bee Z and R2. First, if you attempt to set the landing approach like most RC'ers, that is a very high last leg and attempt to let the plane float down to the runway, you will run the risk of stalling the aircraft, particularly if you don't have keen depth perception. Just like landing fighter jets, you must be mindful of the glide-path your plane is on. It is better to have to low of a glide-path than too high of one, because you must manage the throttle in landing the Gee Bee.
By throttle management I mean simply this, you attempt to power the plane on the appropriate glide-slope. Most modelers that I have observed attempt to manage the elevator. If their glide-path is too low they add up via the elevator, and if to high, they let the plane float until more up is needed. It is what some would call letting the plane fly you.
I suggest that the vertical axis must be managed by the throttle input and it begins when the plane first enters into the landing pattern. The whole purpose of the landing pattern is to set the plane in the proper altitude for the correct glide-path on final approach. Depending on wind conditions, I attempt to fly the plane a bit beyond stall (flying on the prop) as I through the landing pattern. I decrease throttle to loose altitude at a rate that allows the plane to be at the proper altitude for final approach and continue flying the prop to the ground using very little elevator input at all. If you are fighting the elevator you're hoping for a lucky landing. By flying the prop from the correct glide-path, I can even add a touch of down-elevator to keep the tail up for a pretty two-pointer.
Second, I try using different diameter props looking for good throttle response and braking. I have fond that the larger diameter props help tremendously in landing round cowled airplanes like the Corsair and Gee Bee's. I have no clue about the aerodynamic effects, but this has been my experience in using the larger diameter props on the Gee Bee's.
I would recommend as a training aid, a plane with effective flaps. I had built the Carl Goldberg Super Chipmunk with flaps which taught me alot about powering the plane through the landing, particularly in strong wind conditions.

Just thought I would share my experiences, and I hope it is helpfull. Good luck!

RevGQ,
Great Input! My first landing was just as you described and ended quite successfully. On my second flight the wind had changed and approaches were coming from the "short" side of the field and didn't allow for the plane to settle into a good approach. After about 10 aborted landings I finally thought I had it licked, but it came down hard and flipped.

Our field is in a state of flux, but by spring it will be realigned with almost unlimted approachs from both directions.

Again, good input, and advice worth heeding!

Steve

I have also found that certain flight simulators are helpful, particularly "1942 Pacific Air Wars" by MicroPose and Falcon 4.0. Pacific Air Wars teaches you to trap prop planes on carriers. This was helpful in learning how to land on short fields as your approach altitude is much lower and your patterns are considerably tighter. Falcon instructed me on setting the glide-path.
I glad my notes helped. Keep flying!

Great description on landing. I was wondering if a full stall landing would correct the bounce and nose over.

When flying full size on landing you never vary the pitch once you have set the glide path. If you do you are chasing it. If you sink or climb you vary the throttle to bring it into the correct angle. Once over the runway and in ground effect, pull elevator and WAIT for the plane to stop flying and settle. I use the same technique as you described with RC planes and have great landings. I have been thinking of getting a BEE GEE but concerned over the landing problems that have been posted.

Thanks for the post on landing the Bee Gee, I think I will get one. Always liked BEE GEE's

LMProd,

When I was being instructed full-scale, I was told that what you describe as being "reverse order". When we hit the base leg, my instructor would be saying..."REVERSE ORDER ! Remember ! Power for altitude now, elevator for airspeed !". We were lucky and had VASI's so I could practice this and "know" when I had it on glide-slope. When I later got my pilots eyes, as they say, I could tell if I was on glide-slope by the orientation of the aircraft to the runway.

When it really came in handy was during practice ILS approaches. I forget to always use it in R/C, but when I do, it rewards me with a good landing. I was also taught in full-scale that "a bad approach always makes a bad landing".

Great advise and GREAT memories !

CJ

Hello gang!
Keeping the GP Gee Bee light is a good idea... I have a Saito 182 twin with onboard glow in mine and therefore have 13 lbs of airplane to deal with. This of course leads to some interesting landings!! I have the backup plan (another GP Gee Bee!) in the basement. My next move is to dump the 182 twin, the onboard glow, the 20 oz fuel tank, and anything else I can think of and power it with the new saito 125. This will remove a whole lot of weight in a hurry!! Such a pretty airplane, I'm anxious to fly one that weighs what it should.

OK GUYS!!!
FINALLY finished the GEE BEE
IT has robarts and onboard glow set at quarter throttle with an OS 120 non pump powering it...
CG is set at 70mm
I havent checked the final weight but I will before I decide to maiden it...
Ive been breaking in the engine and setting it up.
PLEASE
Let me know how yours is doing. The wind conditions where I fly is sometimes a bit annoying as I do get some 45 degree crosswinds...
I went around the runway several times and noticed the gee bee has a tendancy to turn into the wind...
I dont think Ill maiden it unless the conditions are right... Any tips? This is what Im figuring.
Better to come in fast than slow and stall 4 feet above ground. I fly and land KYOSHO PITTS and KYOSHO GEE BEE's without problems and Im quite confident with them...
Im afraid of the Great planes GEE BEE's high wing loading. Im just wondering HOW SLOW IT WILL ACTUALLY FLY.
I dont want the plane to fall out of the sky on a landing.
On the landing I plan to come in at a quarter throttle down to about 2 feet above ground then idle it down.
Any suggestions?
Im gonna maiden with a 16x6 apc prop. FEEDBACK PLEASE!!!

By the way... Ive only flown .40 size planes.
Such as
40 Kyosho Gee Bee
World Models Dago Red
40 Kyosho Pitts
40 Kyosho Mustang
40 Kyosho Zero

stuff like that...
I wonder if this is a handicap, I heard that the bigger the more stable.
help me out please fellas.

To each his own, but I personally hate the Bee Gees. Disco sucks[:'(]

Okay Guys, I couldn't resist it any longer. Tower was giving $20 off so I purchased the GP Gee Bee. I went to the attack and took down an OS 120 FS II I brought back in the 80's and started her up. She purred, but I think I will put my old Super Tigre G2300 in. Why, some will ask. Well, I looked at the OS 120 specs and the weight was quote "34.56 oz" with silencer and rated at 2.1 BHP. The Super Tigre weighs in at 30.77 oz without muffler, and is rated at 3.7 BHP. It's a no brainer fellas. Just for comparison, I looked at the Saito 1.80 specs and it weighs 31.04 oz at 2.8 BHP.

I expect that I will adjust former to allow for a larger fuel tank. I will not purchase the Robart struts initially, but I will attempt to strengthen the GP gear by wrapping them in wire and soldier and possibly adding a wire splint if needed. I have had experience in bending Gee Bee landing gear when scratch building Henry Haffke's Gee Bee Model Z, so supplimenting the GP gear with larger diameter wire shouldn't pose to great a problem.

As far as the landing woes I continue to read about, I think the larger diameter prop on the G2300 will allow ample braking, thus allowing the plane to be flown to the runway on the prop. This has always been the ideal landing technique for Gee Bee's, Corsairs, and most high-wing-loaded proped fighters.

I thank all of you who have shared your building experiences with the plane and likewise I will upload any helpful suggestion I may encounter as I build this beautiful bird. I gotta confess though, it is taking every ounce of will power I have not to strip my Sukhoi of its MVVS 1.60 gasser (haven't flown yet) and toss into this Gee Bee. I think the only problem will be the added weight up front caused by the ignition and batteries needed, as most are reporting a need to add weight to the tail. Once I open the box though, I will see if it is feasable to erect a servo plattform in the fuselage tail section to mount the elevator and rudder servos. Gp's Cap even utilizes a rudder servo in the bottom of the fuse tail, which might be another idea to look into.

[img][/img]

the do make a glow head for that MVVS ,,, LOL


Jim

sounds great Rev.
let us know how it goes. My Gee Bee is awaiting its maiden flight. Just couldnt get the right conditions for it just yet,
Ill post results ASAP

I did the maiden flight on my just completed GP Gee Bee yesterday. It wasn't a perfect day, high wind, but at least it was fairly steady and basically straight down the runway.

First the disclaimers, I didn't build this kit fresh out of the box, I purchased it from another club member who alledgedly bought out another modeller. The original owner started a few mods (Robart Hinge Points on the Rudder) that didn't work out and required some interesting repairs. I corrected the rudder hinging problem as well as the tailwheel issues created by tyhe original owner of this kit. The plus side was I purchased the kit, basically NIB with Robart landing gear/wheels for $250, a very nice deal indeed.

Anyway back to the maiden flight.

I set the CG per the instructions @ 70mm behind the leading edge of the wing using the hanging from cord method. CG appeared to be perfect, no added weight at either end. I didn't weigh the plane before the maiden flight, my WAG says it's about 12-13 lbs. Basically stock kit with internal controls on Rudder and Elevator, CBA Tailwheel assy, and GMS 1.2 Cu.In. 2-stroke (read CHEAP) with a Bisson Pitts style muffler. The takeoff and non-trimmed handling were very docile. I'd classify the handling as very similar to a large AstroHog. It took all of the down rim I had available to get it to stop climbing. I had the elevator throws set at about 1/2" for the intial flight and it wasn't pitch sensitive.

When landing time came I kept the airspeed up and wheel landed. The rollout was straight but as I started to lower the tail the plane lifted into the air. Part of this was due to the surface wind, part was due to the speed. On the subsequent flair to touchdown, I managed to fully compress the Robart Gear, the front of the wheel pants grabbed the grass and flipped the plane on it's back. No damage except both wheel pants cracked on the front joint line where they touched terrafirma.

I don't know where all the dread has come from regarding the landing characteristics. I'd have to say most of the flipping on it's back problems are caused by the wheel pants, not by high wing loadings, etc. Comparing it to a fighter isn't accurate (I have lots of experience with high wing loadings, something like 57 oz/sqft on a scaled out Yellow Aircraft A-4 Ducted Fan and numerous .60 sized TF, Royal, Pica, Zirolli big birds etc.) this thing is a big ***** cat to fly. If you're worried about the landings, try the trim flight without the wheel pants and see what happens.

I'll weigh the plane later and post the specifics. I plan another flight on Wed, if the weather is halfway decent and will let you all know how it went.

Rich

loving My GP Gee BEE
Moki 135 it is super fast
still trying to master the landing though it has to be just right every time.

djyoung
I have flown the kyosho Gee Bee / Great Planes Gee Bee / and KMP Gee Bee Flying any of them is no problem. Taking off is not that difficult just keep it on the ground till you get plenty of speed. Of the 3 Gee Bees Great Planes was the easiest to land. Then the Kyosho / then KMP. If the grass is long it can grab the wheel pants. I have always landed mine on the wheels and let them run out. If you try to 3 point you can loose lift. When letting it run out don't cut the throttle too quick it tends to ack like brakes and nose over.
Can't wait to hear how it goes. If balanced well you will love it! Just flying a Gee bee is fun in it self.

BULL~
Thanks for the reply. You answered it all when you compared the three Gee Bees.
The GP Gee Bee's been Balanced at 70mm and it is ready to go for this weekend. I was gonna maiden it last sunday but Had work...
Thats the only bad thing about freelancing. Gotta take the jobs as they come.
Either way I didnt think the Kyosho Gee Bee was all that troublesome in flight or all that.
I was worried about the GP cuz it's actually my first plane above a 70 size.
LEts find out how she handles here in Korea

Slowly getting my Gee Bee together and have a question. My wheel pants do not fit flush on the wing, did anybody else have this issue? They are about a 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch from the leading edge of the wing and that puts the wheel just a bit to the front of the opening. This leaves a gap at the front edge where the wheel pant meest the wing. If I slide them back to where the gap is gone the wheels almost touch the front of the wheel pants.

I didn't have that issue but you can flex the fiberglass wheel pants a bit by using a heat gun or you can just fit it with a small gap.
Or you can sand a bit off to get a flush fit.

I really like to looks of this model! It is going together fairly well and now I need to figure out what motor to buy for it. How has the SuperTiger 2300 worked out for those who have installed it? Fit and balance is really what I am interested in hearing about.

I bought a GMS 1.2 Cu. In. 2-stroke w/remote needle valve from Tower Hobbies for $119.95 without a muffler. I found a Bisson 25 degree Pitts muffler for a Moki 1.2 ($44.95) at my LHS and it was an exact fit. The choice of the GMS was solely based on price and I'm quite pleased with the overall quality and the ease of handling. My GP Gee Bee balanced without any additional weight, placing all radio components in the locations recommended by GP's in the destructions.

Rich

Not familiar with the GMS 1.20, but I love my .76. Are you able to swing a 16-18 inch diameter prop? I think the cowl of the Gee Bee will demand at least a 16 in dia. prop, particularly in landing.