Alcuy

Capt Cash, I should clarify I was using a heat gun and pointing it through the tubes. It is likely only a ball-park temperature and that means probably lower than actual. Your use of temperature sensors will be more accurate as it will show real time. Even though I have gun in hand and start checking as soon as I can after killing the engine, it is still a surface reading and varies by where it is pointed.

Capt Cash

My Feedback: (1)

Agreed, I would like to have a heat gun sensor too, just to compare the difference in what it's telling me versus what my onboard temperature loops are recording. The onboard sensors will obviously record higher temps, but then again it's not really a huge issue as I don't even use my data logger as much once I figure out what the engine temp is averaging. I suppose if you really push your engine a lot, one might want to know the exact peak temperatures being reached as well.

My setup cost about $60 and then $10 for each additional temperature loop which allows me to transfer the data logger device between planes. However, there are much cheaper and simpler onboard digital models too that record just the max temp reached during the flight and nothing else.

I've read our small 2-stroke gassers can run 300F all day long, I think it's around 350F when things start wearing out a little more quickly! I always thought it would be neat to have a cylinder head temp recording system on a chainsaw that gets hard use for hours on end, it would likely show some surprisingly high numbers I bet.

Capt Cash

My Feedback: (1)

Alcuy,

You discussed in previous posts how you cut the exhaust pipes to fit the cowl and that VVRC included some hoses and clamps to do this. I noticed however that they did not include any such extension tubes or clamps with the shipment of my engine. Are they the standard type of stainless hose clamps? From your pics it looks like you've elongated the exhaust holes in the cowl in order to access the clamps with a wrench?

Also, did you run into any issues with the throttle linkage? The included longer arm is nice, but with the way the carb is placed on the engine, in order to put the throttle pushrod linkage inline with the movement of the arm would require a hole in the firewall right up against the standoff or only about a 1/4" away. It seems very close but I suppose this will be fine as I plan to beef up the firewall anyway. Where did you mount the servo? I was planning to put mine beside the fuel tank but it looks to be a lot of work just getting in there. BTW, your choke rod install looks really cool too! Thanks for posting.

For anybody else interested in using this engine, I can confirm as Alcuy has that if you plan to cut exhaust holes only in the cowl, it will absolutely not work unless the pipes are cut down significantly shorter. So it's either that or cutting the cowl from the back all the way up to the pipes. I feel this could be done in a U-shape while leaving the air induction globe in place on the cowl but it may look a little more odd.

I've also noticed that the exhaust stacks are offset by 5/8" fore and aft I guess? Not really a big deal but every other gas twin I've seen has the mufflers designed to where the stacks are evenly placed directly across from each other.

72

Can you tell me what the exhaust extensions are? I have the vvrc40 for this airplane also. I have looked on the vv website but don't see anything like this. Would also like to buy local if possible.

corvettez06

My Feedback: (8)

I have a new, unused, set of wings for the SuperCub for sale. Each of them have a broken rib which doesn't seem to affect strength. Both include hatch covers, but only the left wing has the aileron and flap. Let me know,if you are interested.

Thanks, Jason

vetter63

I wondered if I could ask a couple of questions about your G26 install. Just finished putting one in my Cub. Did you use the velocity stack included with the engine? Did you cut a hole in the cowl for carb air intake. I'm having a little problem with the engine dying on final and I wonder if the cowl shielding is part of the problem. It idles all day on the ground. Any thoughts would be helpful. Also do you happen to know the spark plug gap setting for a G26? Looked everywhere for it.

bikerbc

I am currently running three G26's .One on my Hanger 9 PA18 , one on a Hanger 9 Taylor Craft and one on a 1/4 scale J 3 . None with a velocity stack . I don't have a hole cut in the cowl of my PA18 for the carb intake and it works fine . I did have a lot of trouble with one of my carbs in the beginning though until I sent it in and it was discovered there was a minor imperfection in the insulator block causing an air leak . The plugs come pre gaped and should be .017 of an inch . I just measured several plugs out in my shop to determine this . They were all the same .

bikerbc

Something else that has come to mind is that you might want to switch to a NGK CM 6 plug if you haven't already . they are much better than the plugs that come with the motors . I just looked in my Service Manual that comes with the G26 and it says the plug gap should be 0.6 to 0.7 mm with the limit at 0.7 .. This is basically the same as what I gave you in thousands..

bikerbc

vetter 63 I was looking back over your posts and realized you might be talking about a J3 cowl . if you are asking about a J3 cowl you will need to cut a hole in the cowl for the carb to stick out .The J3 cowl is a lot narrower than the PA 18 cowl . I think I would try the velocity stack . If you don't like it you can always remove it .

vetter63

Thanks for your responses. I was referring to a PA18 cowl. I love the airplane, just have to get thru the start up bugs. Will try a NGK plug

bikerbc

You are going to have lots of fun with your PA 18 . It is one of the nicest ARFs I have ever put together . I am really enjoying it . It fly's beautifully with the G26 . I think it is a perfect match . Keep us informed how you make out with yours .. Maybe you just need to give it a few more clicks of throttle trim .. Are you using your throttle cut off ? Did you undo the spring on the carb ? I undid mine though they tell you not to . You need to get at least a gallon of gas through the G26 before it is broken in . Is yours still spitting out black goo ? The one on my PA18 is still making a black mess on the bottom of my plane . . Watch your landing gear . Mine broke loose on the right side and needed some repairs .

vetter63

I have less than a gallon run thru it and, yes, it's spitting black goo like mad. Is that normal during break in? I disconnected the throttle return spring. I do use throttle cut to kill the engine.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Yes, they throw crud till the ring seats, especially if you use a lot of oil

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

I need some advice for my first maiden on this airframe. Should this plane be flown like its full scale counterpart? I am specially interested in the take-off and landing procedures using flaps and no flaps.

vetter63

I just maidened mine a few days ago. Fly very well with only a few clicks of down trim. On takeoff it has a little tendency to climb fast so easy on up elevator. I'm still playing with flap adjustments. You'll need 15-20% down elevator to compensate when flaps are deployed. Other than that it flies really well.

bikerbc

You really don't need any flaps to fly this plane . I would fly the maiden with out them . After you become comfortable with the plane and have it trimmed out then I would start playing with the flaps . You will find that unless you mix some down elevator in with your flaps the plane will have a tendency to pitch up . I use a little more than vetter63 ,I think I have mine set at 15-and 30% But this is a personal prefrance you will need to find on your own . It will depend on your landing speed and flap settings .

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Here's a quick vid of a take-off, touch, and landing. A pleasure to fly and predictable. As others indicated, no flaps required initially, but are fun to play with down the road! http://youtu.be/xJJBwH3Zow0

bikerbc

You have done a beautiful job producing your video . You fly your Cub like a master . Its nice to watch . In Canada and USA the marker lights are red on the left side and green on the right side . The original instructions were wrong and since have been ammended . How do you like your DX9 ? I have the DX8 and am thinking of up grading ..

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks! Wanted to share how nice she takes off & lands. Great airplane!

This is my first giant scale airframe, so it went together "by the book". After doing so, I was told the book was wrong. Perhaps one day, I'll pull it apart and change the nav lights, but that's a fair amount of work!

Love the DX9! In fact, I 'downgraded' from the 18QQ because I don't need that many channels for the simple stuff I fly and I love the spoken switch settings, telemetry values and timers.

Cheers

bikerbc

Yes you are right , that would be a lot of work to change the lights , plus you would need to destroy what you have and purchase new stuff .I doubt you could save what you have .I bet horizion would replace it for you for free if you call and ask them . They are fantastic about stuff like that . I almost got caught with the same thing myself . We get used to trusting the instructions to be right .Your lights are much brighter than mine though , they must be aftermarket . I am surprized how well you fly being that is your first giant scale airframe . It is a very nice handling plane and you have done a beautiful job with it . ARFs have come a long way . What do you have in it for power ?

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks!

Here's the setup -

- Tacon Bigfoot 160 on 10S
- Castle HV80
- APC 19x10, also Xoar 19x10
- ElectroDynamics LED's (landing lights mixed w/landing flaps)
- AirTop 180 (7") tundra tires
- AUW 20.9 lbs

If I had a 'do over', I would go with the Tacon Bigfoot 110 on 8S. Saves both weight and $, and I have way more than enough power!

Cheers

Capt Cash

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for sharing. I came across your video a while back on YouTube and it inspired me to get the 7" Airtop tires too as you stated you are using them in the video. Wasn't planning on lights either, but after seeing some aftermarket types and how incredibly bright they are, I figured I had to get some. Especially since the plane is already set up for them.

Anyway I've still a ways to go before completing this one, have lots of other projects going on. I hope to be done in few more months.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Go, go, go...Spring will be here soon!

And yes, the ED LED's are impressive indeed! AirTop's are heavy, but complete that Bush Cub look and this airframe is a joy to fly, even @ 21 lbs!

Cheers

72

Some engine pics to show the VVRC 40 twin. As installed, the stock spacers fit perfectly and the only required cowl cutouts are as shown for the exhausts. Access to the carb needles is through the left exhaust cutout.

72

I am also installing nav and landing lights plus strobes. With all this wiring and the flap/aileron servos coming out of the wing, hooking everything up every time I want to fly would be quite an ordeal. I decided to simplify this and wired all connections to a DB15 connector, so when I slide the wing into position all electrical hook up perfectly. I am going to hide the wires with a cockpit kit of my own making. More pics to follow.