New Hangar 9 1/4 Scale P 18 Super Cub
06-13-2015, 05:19 PM
#1826
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Thanks, Ken- I appreciate your point of view. If you're bored and look back around page 50-52 (PRBushwheels come up starting somewhere around there) you'll find that several people here were talking about the 6.5" tires for this 1/4 scale Super Cub. Marksp even ran a set with pics in this very thread! I wasn't the only person who was under the impression that the 6.5" tires were intended to run on bigger planes. Larry AK cUB told us to look into the 6.5" size because they were only $30, and it's his buddy that owned the company so it seemed like a credible source. Ah, hell... I just love building and flying. Life's too short to worry over little stuff. Steve at PRBushwheels seems to genuinely want to resolve my issue. Let's see where it goes next. He seems like a real modeler at heart who wants everyone to have fun.
06-14-2015, 03:52 AM
#1827
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After a couple of emails and messages it was arranged for Ken our clubs Heavy Model Inspector to be at the club meeting today. Yippee... time for certification and the Maiden Flight. The wind was a little stronger than predicted but Ken assured me the Cub would be fine. Power on and the tail wheel lifts straight away, roll out a little and the PA-18 was in the air. A very nice and easy plane to fly. Come landing time and Ken helps with instructions on how to land the Cub and i nail my first every 1/4 Scale landing. The PR Bush Wheels and Struts worked a treat as you will see in the video and IMHO! looked Great! Rain was all around so only got 2 flights in today. We have the maiden flight take of followed by the second flight take of then a mix of both flights then the second flight landing followed by the Maiden Landing. Enjoy and Thanks For Watching!
cheers chuck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtciLpStAC4
cheers chuck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtciLpStAC4
Last edited by ChuckTSeeker; 06-14-2015 at 04:09 PM.
06-15-2015, 06:38 AM
#1830
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Jeepindog, I, too, have the ASP 160 that I fly on a 1/4 Cub and I bought a new carb for the 160 from HobbyKing for less than $20. I had trouble getting the idle down and smooth with the original carb, but the replacement worked great. If you want to dump your 160 cheap, let me know. The only problem that I have with them is that they are FUEL HOGS! I run a VVRC 40 on my SuperCub and the max carb opening is 1/2 way and she flies perfect. I run the PR shocks and 1/3 scale Dubros lightweight Cub wheels. I like this combo. Maybe not a "bush" setup, more of a "dirt farmer" set up.
11-15-2015, 08:45 PM
#1840
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So what's really the ideal engine for this ? Really don't want to butcher the cowl so one that fits all inside, must be GAS !
What are some recommendations and ones to stay away from ? How are people going with the evolution 33cc, I read that motor is a bit of a shaker ?
What are some recommendations and ones to stay away from ? How are people going with the evolution 33cc, I read that motor is a bit of a shaker ?
11-15-2015, 08:51 PM
#1841
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So what's really the ideal engine for this ? Really don't want to butcher the cowl so one that fits all inside, must be GAS !
What are some recommendations and ones to stay away from ? How are people going with the evolution 33cc, I read that motor is a bit of a shaker ?
What are some recommendations and ones to stay away from ? How are people going with the evolution 33cc, I read that motor is a bit of a shaker ?
11-15-2015, 09:44 PM
#1843
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Thanks for the response. Is that mounted on it's side or vertically ? Does it have enough power in your opinion ? I'm looking to put on floats eventually...
Not too much power ? How is it at idle and for taxi around ? What size prop ? I think I remember reading this engine was a little hard to hand start, have you had any issues ?
11-15-2015, 10:13 PM
#1844
My Feedback: (13)
Skywagon,
i have the saito FG-30 and could not imagine a better motor (but I don't have experience with any others). It hangs inverted but does protrude a bit. When I told a buddy I had to hang it out of the cowl he was worried I'd ruin the look...when he saw it he couldn't believe ho good it still looked and when he flew it we agreed it was an awesome choice.
The motor will fly more than 45 min on the stock 17 oz tank and will easily pull the plane AND floats around. 90+% of my takeoffs are half power or less and I rarely fly the tank below half because I get tired after thirty min. I've worn out a set of tires and have completely refurbed the plane once. Additionally it swings a 1/4 scle prop (18", I use an 18x6) so the look is spot on
The drawback is that the 20:1 mixture makes a mess after 45 min or so of flying. Not as bad as glow but worse than 'normal' gas. I ran a small aluminum tube through the plane that exhausts near the tailwheel for the crankcase breather and that's been brilliant. When the plane is in storage I put a 2oz tank on the end of that breather tube and pull it off when I get to the field.
The plane recently won Best Classic at our field's Warbird and Classic event (special thanks to my buddy Sid for the awesome covering job)
Th pic isn't the best of the motor hanging but you can see it's pretty non-obtrusive
I hope this helps
Dave
i have the saito FG-30 and could not imagine a better motor (but I don't have experience with any others). It hangs inverted but does protrude a bit. When I told a buddy I had to hang it out of the cowl he was worried I'd ruin the look...when he saw it he couldn't believe ho good it still looked and when he flew it we agreed it was an awesome choice.
The motor will fly more than 45 min on the stock 17 oz tank and will easily pull the plane AND floats around. 90+% of my takeoffs are half power or less and I rarely fly the tank below half because I get tired after thirty min. I've worn out a set of tires and have completely refurbed the plane once. Additionally it swings a 1/4 scle prop (18", I use an 18x6) so the look is spot on
The drawback is that the 20:1 mixture makes a mess after 45 min or so of flying. Not as bad as glow but worse than 'normal' gas. I ran a small aluminum tube through the plane that exhausts near the tailwheel for the crankcase breather and that's been brilliant. When the plane is in storage I put a 2oz tank on the end of that breather tube and pull it off when I get to the field.
The plane recently won Best Classic at our field's Warbird and Classic event (special thanks to my buddy Sid for the awesome covering job)
Th pic isn't the best of the motor hanging but you can see it's pretty non-obtrusive
I hope this helps
Dave
Last edited by ozief16; 11-15-2015 at 10:19 PM. Reason: Added pics
11-15-2015, 10:15 PM
#1845
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DLE40 twin has a surplus of power and would be ideal for floats, it is also very smooth, just the ends of the plug caps protrude. The only issue is ground clearance with a 19 x 8 prop, you have to land smoothly or you will get the odd prop strike (with standard wheels and firmer bungees) 
11-16-2015, 12:42 AM
#1846
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Skywagon,
i have the saito FG-30 and could not imagine a better motor (but I don't have experience with any others). It hangs inverted but does protrude a bit. When I told a buddy I had to hang it out of the cowl he was worried I'd ruin the look...when he saw it he couldn't believe ho good it still looked and when he flew it we agreed it was an awesome choice.
The motor will fly more than 45 min on the stock 17 oz tank and will easily pull the plane AND floats around. 90+% of my takeoffs are half power or less and I rarely fly the tank below half because I get tired after thirty min. I've worn out a set of tires and have completely refurbed the plane once. Additionally it swings a 1/4 scle prop (18", I use an 18x6) so the look is spot on
The drawback is that the 20:1 mixture makes a mess after 45 min or so of flying. Not as bad as glow but worse than 'normal' gas. I ran a small aluminum tube through the plane that exhausts near the tailwheel for the crankcase breather and that's been brilliant. When the plane is in storage I put a 2oz tank on the end of that breather tube and pull it off when I get to the field.
The plane recently won Best Classic at our field's Warbird and Classic event (special thanks to my buddy Sid for the awesome covering job)
Th pic isn't the best of the motor hanging but you can see it's pretty non-obtrusive
I hope this helps
Dave
i have the saito FG-30 and could not imagine a better motor (but I don't have experience with any others). It hangs inverted but does protrude a bit. When I told a buddy I had to hang it out of the cowl he was worried I'd ruin the look...when he saw it he couldn't believe ho good it still looked and when he flew it we agreed it was an awesome choice.
The motor will fly more than 45 min on the stock 17 oz tank and will easily pull the plane AND floats around. 90+% of my takeoffs are half power or less and I rarely fly the tank below half because I get tired after thirty min. I've worn out a set of tires and have completely refurbed the plane once. Additionally it swings a 1/4 scle prop (18", I use an 18x6) so the look is spot on
The drawback is that the 20:1 mixture makes a mess after 45 min or so of flying. Not as bad as glow but worse than 'normal' gas. I ran a small aluminum tube through the plane that exhausts near the tailwheel for the crankcase breather and that's been brilliant. When the plane is in storage I put a 2oz tank on the end of that breather tube and pull it off when I get to the field.
The plane recently won Best Classic at our field's Warbird and Classic event (special thanks to my buddy Sid for the awesome covering job)
Th pic isn't the best of the motor hanging but you can see it's pretty non-obtrusive
I hope this helps
Dave
Thanks very much Dave thats great to know. It sure looks like a beautiful plane in your pic, I don't suppose you could post more pics of it ? I really do like that scheme. The FG30 might be worth a look.
DLE40 twin has a surplus of power and would be ideal for floats, it is also very smooth, just the ends of the plug caps protrude. The only issue is ground clearance with a 19 x 8 prop, you have to land smoothly or you will get the odd prop strike (with standard wheels and firmer bungees)
11-16-2015, 12:46 AM
#1847
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Hi Skywagon, i have not tried a smaller prop, it is a little under propped as it is. A nice four stroke gas flat twin would be ideal, but there aren't any the right size.
11-16-2015, 08:06 AM
#1850
My Feedback: (13)
Here are some pics of the FG-30 install. Before I made the cutouts in the cowl I laid carbon matte in there to strengthen the areas around the cylinder head cutout, the exhaust cutout and the nose bowl.
After flying it it for a year I got tired of pulling the cowl to adjust the motor so I added a piano hinge along the scale hinge line. That necessitated some more carbon matte as well. I added some magnets and now the cowl opens in half a second for fueling, priming, and engine adjustment.
With two 1800 mah LiFE batteries under the fwd cockpit floor for the radio and another 2300 on the side of the fuel tank for ignition it balanced right at the aft recommended limit. I felt like I lacked elevator authority in the three point flare (ie nose heavy) so I've added 2oz of lead directly to the tailwheel bracket. I will probably add another half ounce (again, aft of the recommended CG) at some point soon (and/or a Barbie in the back seat). I haven't weighed it since the recover but I'm guessing it's in the 18# range...still VERY lightly loaded and with flaps will slow to a crawl
the one area of this plane that I've struggled with for all three years I've had it is the suspension system. The stock rubber bands didn't even make it to the field the first time before giving out (the hot/dry desert destroys rubber products). They were replaced and the new rubber bands dropped the plane on its face first time out breaking a $20 prop (the landing wasn't that bad I swear!). I replaced them with Orings as suggested and the failed after a day at the field (oil residue?). I replaced those with Viton Orings and they lasted a little longer (think of the the prop $ at play when taxiing in and it slowly sags down and Knicks the prop!). I replaced those with springs of varying tension to set it the way I liked and then ran safety wire as a max stop loop (it was slack normally, but if a spring popped off the safety wire would go taught and prevent the gear from splaying all the way out). Those worked for quite a while and were impervious to oil but would need occasional replacement due to a bounced landing. Thanks to this forum I found out about PR Bushwheels and their spring strut deal specifically made for this plane. At $100 they're a bit pricey but very well made with great customer service and appear to be just the ticket for this plane. I took them apart (snap ring pliers) cleaned, etched/primed, and painted them. When they were reinstalled I was able to fit the stock airfoil shaped bungee covers over them with a dab of Zap a Dap a Goo to prevent rotation and retained the scale looks. With the way these items work I reversed the bungee covers so the big hole was at the bottom vs the top and now don't worry about oil getting in them from the exhaust. these have been the ticket to not having to flip the plane over and monkey with the gear all the time. I HIGHLY recommend them and the guys at PR were great to deal with too.
The plane was recovered with Solartex and painted with Rustoleum. There is a guy at our field who's incredible with the stuff and I had a plane he wanted and he had a skill set I wanted so we traded. I stripped the plane and did all the things I always wanted to do to it (move the fuel filler under the cowl etc) and he covered it to include pinked tapes, rib stitching (look closely at the pic of the vertical) etc. another buddy did a phenomenal job with the graphics and the plane really came together
Again, I hope this helps
Dave
After flying it it for a year I got tired of pulling the cowl to adjust the motor so I added a piano hinge along the scale hinge line. That necessitated some more carbon matte as well. I added some magnets and now the cowl opens in half a second for fueling, priming, and engine adjustment.
With two 1800 mah LiFE batteries under the fwd cockpit floor for the radio and another 2300 on the side of the fuel tank for ignition it balanced right at the aft recommended limit. I felt like I lacked elevator authority in the three point flare (ie nose heavy) so I've added 2oz of lead directly to the tailwheel bracket. I will probably add another half ounce (again, aft of the recommended CG) at some point soon (and/or a Barbie in the back seat). I haven't weighed it since the recover but I'm guessing it's in the 18# range...still VERY lightly loaded and with flaps will slow to a crawl
the one area of this plane that I've struggled with for all three years I've had it is the suspension system. The stock rubber bands didn't even make it to the field the first time before giving out (the hot/dry desert destroys rubber products). They were replaced and the new rubber bands dropped the plane on its face first time out breaking a $20 prop (the landing wasn't that bad I swear!). I replaced them with Orings as suggested and the failed after a day at the field (oil residue?). I replaced those with Viton Orings and they lasted a little longer (think of the the prop $ at play when taxiing in and it slowly sags down and Knicks the prop!). I replaced those with springs of varying tension to set it the way I liked and then ran safety wire as a max stop loop (it was slack normally, but if a spring popped off the safety wire would go taught and prevent the gear from splaying all the way out). Those worked for quite a while and were impervious to oil but would need occasional replacement due to a bounced landing. Thanks to this forum I found out about PR Bushwheels and their spring strut deal specifically made for this plane. At $100 they're a bit pricey but very well made with great customer service and appear to be just the ticket for this plane. I took them apart (snap ring pliers) cleaned, etched/primed, and painted them. When they were reinstalled I was able to fit the stock airfoil shaped bungee covers over them with a dab of Zap a Dap a Goo to prevent rotation and retained the scale looks. With the way these items work I reversed the bungee covers so the big hole was at the bottom vs the top and now don't worry about oil getting in them from the exhaust. these have been the ticket to not having to flip the plane over and monkey with the gear all the time. I HIGHLY recommend them and the guys at PR were great to deal with too.
The plane was recovered with Solartex and painted with Rustoleum. There is a guy at our field who's incredible with the stuff and I had a plane he wanted and he had a skill set I wanted so we traded. I stripped the plane and did all the things I always wanted to do to it (move the fuel filler under the cowl etc) and he covered it to include pinked tapes, rib stitching (look closely at the pic of the vertical) etc. another buddy did a phenomenal job with the graphics and the plane really came together
Again, I hope this helps
Dave
Last edited by ozief16; 11-16-2015 at 08:08 AM. Reason: Added pics