Piper Cub engine question.
#76
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From: pine bluffs,
WY
I also am using the HS645MG on all control serfices and a FUT standard S148 for the trottle,the system is all 6V 2700 mah.( 1/4 sig cub ).am putting in a rudder gyro in it because of the wind in WYOMING.
#78
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From: Buckeye,
AZ
I am going to order a Gens Ace combo ESC and 1500kv BL45a moter, 55 bucks on Hobbypartz. I havn't tried any of their stuff, but a couple of big electic guys in my club say their stuff is all good. Price is right, I believe I paid about 50 bucks to Chief Aircraft for my last Hacker 30. Hacker is top quality German I believe, but my Cub will be on floats most of the time & there is a chance of dunking. I like the idea of electric for a no engine quitting on idle plan. Anybody ever use Diamond servos? Any good? wallace.tharp
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From: SorrentoBritish Columbia, CANADA
Dadragon could you tell me a bit about the rudder Gyro ? I know nothing about it at all...I use rudder aileron mix but I have it on a switch so I can shut it off when I choose to use my left thumb to cordinate my turns...Pllus the Cub can really help teach you how to fly properly if you let it..
#81
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From: oak hill, FL
So I got the 4 stroke today and got it mounted tonight. Fit great without any issues. I'm a little hesitant to cut the cowling as it'll be the first time I've ever done it, was wondering if there are any tips so I can make the cut as small as possible and not mess it up.
#82
Biggest thing is to take your time and remove small amounts. With the engine mounted in the proper location tape a piece of card stock to the fuse so that it hits the valve covers or any part that will stick out of the cowl but does not get in the way of re-mounting the cowl. Cut the card stock so that it goes over the engine with some clearance. Now remove the engine and mount the cowl. Use the card stock to draw the opening on the cowl. Remove the cowl and cut the opening but leave yourself some room so cut inside your line. Re-mount your engine and start test fitting the cowl removing small amounts at a time till you have a good fit. Do not remove the card stock from the fuse until you’re done because if you move it you will loss the alignment.
#83
After I make the rough cut I use the sanding wheel on the dremel tool to smooth everything, nice smooth corners, then I run the black cockpit coaming around the edge makes a nice finish look......
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From: Buckeye,
AZ
ORIGINAL: smkrcflyer
Biggest thing is to take your time and remove small amounts. With the engine mounted in the proper location tape a piece of card stock to the fuse so that it hits the valve covers or any part that will stick out of the cowl but does not get in the way of re-mounting the cowl. Cut the card stock so that it goes over the engine with some clearance. Now remove the engine and mount the cowl. Use the card stock to draw the opening on the cowl. Remove the cowl and cut the opening but leave yourself some room so cut inside your line. Re-mount your engine and start test fitting the cowl removing small amounts at a time till you have a good fit. Do not remove the card stock from the fuse until you’re done because if you move it you will loss the alignment.
Biggest thing is to take your time and remove small amounts. With the engine mounted in the proper location tape a piece of card stock to the fuse so that it hits the valve covers or any part that will stick out of the cowl but does not get in the way of re-mounting the cowl. Cut the card stock so that it goes over the engine with some clearance. Now remove the engine and mount the cowl. Use the card stock to draw the opening on the cowl. Remove the cowl and cut the opening but leave yourself some room so cut inside your line. Re-mount your engine and start test fitting the cowl removing small amounts at a time till you have a good fit. Do not remove the card stock from the fuse until you’re done because if you move it you will loss the alignment.
#86
I have the Magnum .52 four stroke in my GP fabric J-3 and it gives scale performance.Also I used Futaba S3004 servos all way round.I have a little over 800 hours in the full scale J-3 and it looks like the real thing in the air.
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From: Buckeye,
AZ
ORIGINAL: nmav8r
I have the Magnum .52 four stroke in my GP fabric J-3 and it gives scale performance.Also I used Futaba S3004 servos all way round.I have a little over 800 hours in the full scale J-3 and it looks like the real thing in the air.
I have the Magnum .52 four stroke in my GP fabric J-3 and it gives scale performance.Also I used Futaba S3004 servos all way round.I have a little over 800 hours in the full scale J-3 and it looks like the real thing in the air.




