JWQ500RC

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Pit-Viper

She was a great flier until gravity got out of phase, or maybe I did. Anyway looking forward to building another one. I built this one in 2003

Pit-Viper 1

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Sorry to here that, glad to hear you won't give up on it. I hope mine lasts that long, this was only my second summer flying it.

Shane

Flyboyxc

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Fellow RC'ers,  I have very much enjoyed everyone's input on this H9 Corsair forum!  I have just spent almost 2 hours analyzing everyone's post!  Anyway, I think I am going to have to buy one now, the last few days I have considered 3 different planes:  the seagull models 1.20 space walker, H9 Hellcat, and of course this new and beautiful Corsair!!!!  Thanks for the heads up on the potential retract problems, as I have never flown with retract.  

da Rock

No doubts about power. The H9 planes in this group fly perfectly on 60 2-cycles. The ASP .91 should have that power.

As for a good CG, that's up to you. How much heavier is your 91 and muffler than the weight of an OS61FX, which is very probably what was used as the design weight?


edit: Jeez, I just looked up your ASP91. The specs on the one I found say it's 28.8 oz without muffler. The specs on the OS91FX used in my Spit, P47, and F4U say 19.4 oz without muffler. Your 9 ounce increase in the front is probably going to take 3-5 oz in the rear depending on where you can put that much weight. Then you've got balance but the wing is lugging 3/4 of a pound extra. If I were you, I'd use a lighter engine. 3/4 pound is enough dead weight to cause lots poorer flying than you'd get without. Yeah, the engine plane will lift it, but it ain't combat load that won't be coming home. Keep in mind the retracts while you're thinking about how it's going to handle on final. Personally, I'd pass on that engine.

Easy Flier

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Hey Pit,
Did you ever get your RCGF 20cc mounted in the Corsair?
JT

Pit-Viper 1

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No not yet, I have another project that's got to get done before spring. I have dry fit the RCGF20cc and it fits great inside the cowl. No doubt it will fly it wonderfully. You will have to add some weight to the tail no doubt.
Notice the before and after pics of the vert. and horz. stabs, this is the exact mods I do to my H9 Corsair and P-47. It adds a couple oz. to the tail but when I fit the rcgf no extra weight is needed to balance.

One thing I say is that adding some weight to these planes will stable them out. I average about a pound over the highest weight advertised by the manufacturer on all these planes. Of course I'm not one that looks at the numbers on paper and says you can't do it cause the wing loading says so. I reinforce all areas I see fit and I set it up to fly how I like it to fly. Now I do consider the loading and weight when determining motor size.

Flyboyxc,

I think you'll be fine with that motor, you may have a 9oz. difference in motor weight but that translates to about 1-2oz when applied to the very tip of the tail. The farther back (or forward) you install your weight the less you'll have to use. It should have plenty of power. I was flying with a supertiger .75 that weighed quite a bit more. Here's a pic of its weight on the plane and a video of it flying with that setup and tail mods complete. [link]http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/Hangar9-P-47-mpg[/link] Even in the high winds it flies nice and stable with the extra weight.


I say go for it, it's a hobby. If we spend to much time analyzing everything we tend to be too uptight when flying. Go out have fun and enjoy the hobby. Remember though, these are my opinions. Everyone has their own way of doing things. I think safety is by far more important and a properly setup plane will be safer and last you longer.

Here my latest video for those who haven't seen it yet. Redid it with music.

[link]http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/Corsair-Last-flight-of-the-year[/link]



Shane

Easy Flier

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Pit,
Are you glassing the whole plane or just stress areas because of the RCGF 20cc??

JT

Pit-Viper 1

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I will be glassing the whole wing as I will be sanding a ton of wood off it to give it a better shape allowing the curves to flow better. The fuse I will probably only glass back to the wing saddle as it has alot of hangar rash form setting up in the stand. The aft of the fuse from the trailing edge of the wing back is very strong so depending on weight need to balance I may go ahead and glass all the way back. I may also go with the RCGF28ccV2 depending on weight. It is almost the exact same dimensions and weight as the 20cc. That way I can swing a bigger more scale looking prop.

Shane

Easy Flier

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Sounds good. Still waiting on funds to buy engine, plane is in closet(Christmas Surprise). I'm thinking about adding flaps, so it may come out soon so I can get started.

Keep us informed when you start.

Good Flying,
JT

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

I've been debating about the flaps as well. A lot of people go with the wire setup between the 2nd and 3rd flap to operate them, I am thinking I will use the "ply" method instead. The only concern doing i this way is that the ply can't go into the flap far enough when flaps are in the up position. If you shorten it to get it to go up all the way then when you deploy the flaps the ply will slip out of the flap. I guess you could always limit the amount of deployment on the flap as well. Can always make a slot in the rib to allow the ply to recess into though. The Royal Corsair uses this method as well.


Shane

gibatta

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Hello Guys:

Well let me tell you this:... I flew the Hangar 9 corsair this morning at 4010 meters above sea level (this is 13156 feet above sea level) in La Paz; Bolivia -South America!! using a Zenoah 20ei gasoline, should you be interested in more details I will be more than glad to send you

I am thinking to promote myself either with Hangar ( and/or) Zenoah ; what do you think? this was some serious challenge...

Gary

Pit-Viper 1

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I thought I had it bad at 5500' alt. WOW Happen to get any video or pics?

gibatta

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I promise to send it after the third week of January (I am flying to Miami for bussiness). Let me know specific detail you need... for instance total weight is 4157 gr (9.16 pounds). I strongly recommend to reinforce firewall as previous mention at the beginning of this forum, only engine is quite heavy (990 grs! but with plenty of power) , it gave me 8150 rpm with 15x8 propeller; also i have taking the advise on how use the current retracts (not a problem till now), you may watch this link:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=755232
[8D]
Gary

ptuxbury

Hello,

I bought this ARF about two years ago, but I'm just putting it together now. Sometime during the last two years I misplaced the fuel tank, and I am having a hard time locating it. I have a few Dubro tanks laying around, but I also have a tank on my break-in stand that only has a mark that says "420CC" on it. It is approximately 5.4" L x 2.8" W x 2.1" H in size. It doesn't seem to fit in the plane quite like the illustrations in the user manual (seems a little longer).

Is this the tank that goes with this plane? If not, then can someone give me the dimensions of the tank that does go in this plane?

Thanks,
Tux

Easy Flier

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Hey,
Mine is still packed in box, but got manual out it gives no size. If you don't get any other replies pm me and will open box and measure the tank for.

Later
JT

Avaiojet

Tux,

Today's your lucky day,

I spent part of the day moving my model stuff around, ARF's included, to gain space in my garage. Actually hanging threaded rods for platforms, so I can get stuff, not only off the floor but off of each other. My H9 Corsair was placed on the top end for easy access, right at my reach.

Mine is new also so the tank that I removed from the box "is" the tank that came with the Corsair. No mistake about that.

The tank measures approx., H, 2.125", L, 5.375" and the W, is 2.75". There's 420cc on the tank. So, looks like you found your tank! Great to make use of something while your waiting to use it.

You may want to check out this Thread I started. I'll continue with it when I get more organized with my modeling stuff. Looking forward to doing my H9 Corsair also.

Good luck with your assemply.

Charles

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_84...tm.htm#8462647

rnordeck

Tux,

I have mine on da workbench, swapping out receivers so I can be FAAST! Stock tank is opaque white & measures 'bout 5.25"L X 2.15" W X 2.72" H. I have mine wrapped in 1/4" foam and it appears I 'dremel'd out the aft former (Step 3 - p.31) to get a snug fit on the foam.

Waiting for Spring....in only 'bout 4 more months!!

Narly

ptuxbury

Wow! Thanks for all the responses, guys. I had a feeling it was the correct tank through process of elimination, but now I know for certain. I'm nearing completion on this thing and I've followed a lot of the suggestions from this thread. I'm using a Magnum 91 4-stroke, and Lado Retracts. I opened up the wheel wells, and sheeted and glassed them, so it is looking really good, in my opinion.

Can't wait until Spring either, but as much of the United States knows, it certainly has been a cold winter so far!

-Tux

Avaiojet

Tux,

Photos of your handy-work?

LADO's, lucky you!

Charles

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Tux, when did you get your Lado's? Just curious because they are on a hiatus until they get all his back orders filled to those who have been waiting for months. I had them on my Corsair and P-47 with the stagger/delay and it looks awesome, when the guys at the field see them it takes awhile to get flying cause they call there buddies over to see them work..

I stand corrected, I went to there site and as of Dec.27 '09 they are closing shop and selling the product line to another company. It's too bad they are a great product for a great price, now they will still be great, prob. just twice the price.

Shane

ptuxbury

I probably got my LADO Retracts in the middle of June. It was right about the time when he was starting to catch up on back orders. I knew I wasn't going to use them right away, but I knew to grab them when I could.

It's probably better that someone else purchased the product from him. He was making so many people upset with the months-long backorders. It's probably worth paying extra for them if they end up shipping on time in the end. To be honest, I'm surprised no one has reversed engineered them already, because it seems like everybody wants them. If I had a little more of an entrepreneurial spirit, then I'd get some of my friends together to do the engineering, and outsource the manufacturing. Of course, then it would cost more. Anyway, I hope the company that purchased them does a better job filling orders.

Anyway, here are some pictures of what I did with the wheel wells. I've also put a couple of links to videos. Pics 1 through 5 are:
1 - sheeting
2 - finished sheeting
3 - glassing
4 - finished glassing
5 - painted with dope

I want to go over it with one more coat of flat dope to get rid of the gloss look.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-DJH2quT2o[/youtube]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qxr67ntJuVo[/youtube]

Easy Flier

My Feedback: (7)

Tux,
Hey did you get the PM I sent??
JT

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Nice job on the sheeting, it sure makes it look more complete. I used Hanger9 Ultracoat paint, Midnight Blue, to paint them. It came out a little lighter than the covering with only one coat. But surprisingly it has stuck to the covering very well for 2 years now being covered with fuel and sprayed with window cleaner after every outing. About 100 flights since the repair/paint.

Shane

ptuxbury

In response to Flyboyxc's question on the ASP .91 engine, I have a brand new Magnum .91 4-stroke which, from what I understand, is the same thing as the ASP .91.

I weighed mine and it came out to 22.6 oz with the muffler (see attached image: 1 lbs 6.6 oz), not the 28.8 oz da Rock read in the ASP specs.

The Saito 100 weighs 20.9 ounces, so this engine is only 1.7 oz heavier. I think it would probably be fine in this plane.

-Tux

ptuxbury

Does anyone else think that this plane lacks adequate fuel tank mounting features? It almost seems like an afterthought. I have already glued in a few pieces of ply to support the tank and space it far enough away from the firewall. I still have to attach one more piece to hold the back of the tank. There is really no way to completely isolate the tank from the wood either, unless I modify it some more.

I searched the thread for info on tank mounting, but didn't really find anything.

-Tux