Anyone tried the PC-9? It looks pretty good and the price is right.

I have one on the way this week. I have a 46fx for it. Ill post a flight report once I get it together

I got one early this year.

kit goes together well, .46 is the right engine size for it.

Flys great, looks good, lands smoothly and copes with moderately windy conditions better than you might think for its size.

70+ flights with mine, no problems to report.

Get one!

Simon.

go to search for seagull pc9 - a masive thread

I just got one of these for X-mas. My wife really DOES love me![8D]

And yes, I did read that entire five-hundred-post thread(!)

Anyway, I still have a question despite the info overload; There has been much mention of the plane "sticking to the runway" on take off and so I'm considering adding functional flaps. The flaps would operate from a single servo mounted in the wing inside the fuse via a common torque rod. This could also be used with spoileron mixing for grins. What do you think? Worth doing? What portion of the strip aileron would you suggest? The strip is 24" long and the factory hinge placement would make the most logical cut-line at 8" from the root end of the strip. That would mean the strip would be 2/3 aileron, 1/3 flap. does this seem reasonable? I guess the real issue is if it would be effective(?) And, would the ailerons still have enough authority? Any ideas?

BTW: my power will be an O.S.46FX

Ricky

I had mine modified to use two servos and have spoilerons/flapperons. Was worried that I would need it to make landings safer/easier.

In actual fact, I never used them after the first few flights. The plane is quite stable (probably due to the fact its semi scale, and not full scale) and landings are a breeze, just tracks straight in, a little elevator, and a slight burst of power right before touchdown is all you need for a greaser.

Based on my experience, you should have enough aileron authority, as the plane was quite nimble. Its actually up to you based on your personal preference whether to modify it or not.

This plane looks amazing when doing an inverted low pass

Im wondering what would be the response of this bird with a 40fx at sea level. somebody have an idea??? [&:]

a 40fx will fly it fine but a 46fx will fly it incredibly!! Mine is perfect with a 46fx with a 11x7 prop



good luck

My question borns since i have the airplane in its box and last xmas i receive the 40fx as a gift ....[&:]

i dont like much the "speedy" flight, but im worried about the performance of flight..

in this case the 40fx will be perfect for you. Will fly the plane nicely

I have seen a couple of these. Seams like a nice plane but from what I have seen the quality control in the building is not the best. Make sure you give it a good going over looking for bad glue joints etc. Other than that fly and enjoy.

Tks a lot, i will start assembly - inspection tomorrow...

Got mine together for it's maiden last weekend; Man, this thing is sweet! I didn't do the flap install as mine is (apparently) one of the 'later' Seagull versions and has the dual aileron servos. I programmed in flaperons in case they were needed....they were not.
I can't believe just how slowly this thing will fly....and when it gets too slow, it doesn't tip-stall, it just kinda "mushes". Very predictable and very pleasant. With the 46 FX on it, its almost over-powered! Lotsa vertical but I didn't push it as I'm still breaking in the new piston/liner. Six or seven flights, very very happy!
Now the other side: On my last landing I dumb-thumbed the roll-out and impaled the wing on the safety fence post(!)
Just dumb stuff, and not a major thing to fix, but I did get a chance to learn a tiny bit about the construction.
1. The balsa sheeting on all parts of the plane is the softest I've seen; Handling the plane without crushing is very touchy, indeed.

2. the leading edge of the wing angles (by design) and the transition is not well done. The leading edge balsa piece is about 3/8" think front to back; to make the change from straight to swept, the builder took a straight chunk of LE stock and sawcut it from the rear towards the front and stopped about 1/16th from the front face. the wood was then bent to make the appropriate shape and that was it....no glue in the sawcut, no scab or gusset to back it up,etc. Of course, this incredibly weak design happened to be adjacent to the spot I stuck the fencepost into! I do believe that my wing would have had a dent rather than a gaping hole in the wing if the LE had been more "normally" constructed.

3. The spar is not much to look at. Its a beam design with 1/4" sticks running over and under the ribs and shear webbing made of the same soft balsa.

4. A lot of un-glued points in the wing.

5. The landing gear blocks seemed BETTER attached and braced than expected.

6. The wing is fixed, and despite my carping, I really like this one!

7. I would suggest using a hypodermic-style glue dispenser to inject some epoxy into the sawcut gap in your leading edges. Just poke a pin into the bend of the edge, you'll find it. Just squirt some epoxy in there.

Ricky

One of the guys took a completed Seagull PC9 to our field yesterday for the 1st time, and after the inspection, the safety officer would not let him fly due to a badly warped elevator.

Seems to be a recurring theme on these?

No warping on mine. I mean, wow! how badly warped must it have been, for the Safety guy to red-flag it!(?)

Ricky