I just picked one up and have a couple questions about servos. The retracts call for a specific servo, but at $60 each and they only work at 4.8 volts, those wont do. I would have to make a separate power supply just for those two servos since I use LIFE packs for the RX. Does anyone know if the TS-63 servo will work? Its a 6V servo. For everything else, I plan to use the AS50 MG servos from Hobby people. Been using them in a few planes without any problems, just trying to find out what arms fit them.

I am also going to use a DLE30 on it and found it sticks out an inch further than what is called for, its 6 1/2", manual says 5 1/2", Should I open the firewall up to stick the carb in that extra inch, or will it be OK having the prop out that extra inch?

I have that plane but use electric retracts so no help there. The only thing hurt by the engine sticking out an extra inch is the looks, will it bug you, it would bug me.

Which retracts did you use? I have Century Jets on my .60 Corsair and they work great. Turns out the standoffs for the DLE30 are only 30MM, which is odd because the carb it longer than 30MM, so I will have to open the firewall to make it fit anyway. That 30MM puts the engine at the correct distance then, the only downside is access to the needles will be difficult. I can make it work, its not the most difficult problem I ran into building. My P-51 is far more complex with the inner wheel doors opening and closing in sequence with the retracts. The real plane wheel doors are closed when the gear is down and there is pressure in the system. They only show open when parked due to the pressure dropping off when the engine stops. Soon as the engine is running though, the doors will close. So to get it as close to scale I had to setup a sequence with a retract servo to hold the doors closed while the gear is down, then open them when the gear is retracted, and close them again when the gear is up, reverse the sequence when dropping the gear. Took me a year of fiddling to make it work right, only to find the air retracts are not reliable after the third sequence due to air pressure drop off which throws the timing off causing the doors to close before the gear is fully up, so the gear will be replaced with electrics. The hard part is the mounting flanges are recessed and covered with sheeting which all has to be cut out and replaced.

I use the E-flight gear and scale struts. I think you can find them on eBay too.

http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/Su...ProdID=EFLG410

http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...dID=EFLG510P47

These fit the large 30CC size P-47? I thought these were for the .60 sized one. I have a set in a 60 size P-51 and they work great, though I used the wire legs, which suck. Going to take the Robarts struts off my other one and try them out.

Uh I didn't know Hangar 9 made a 30cc P-47? Please send me link I would like to take a look at it. What is the wingspan?

Okay I looked it up, so no those retracts won't work.

I'm surprised that your engine is long then because some guys put a 30cc in the 20cc model. That is why I was thinking you had the 20cc model.

Hi Guys, Do any of you know where I can buy one of these new or used? Need only the airframe. Don't even need the retracts. Thanks.

Dave
(916) 716-7348

Only thing I can suggest is going to swap meets and Ebay. It has been out of production for near a decade.

BTW, I found Spectrum makes a proportional retract servo that work on 7v. http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/...ervo-spmsa7040 They work pretty good, scale like speeds, and strong. I got one flight on the plane so far and it flew nice. Did a little tweaking, lost the hatch I had made to access the switches and fuel dot on the first flight and made a new one, added the bombs and center tank, and rebalanced a touch nose heavy as it was a bit twitchy on the tail. A good sign that it needs a bit of nose weight is when it porpoises when the engine surges. The landing was no flaps and like a trainer. Looking forward to my next flight.