Gee Bee Z and Pull Pull
#2
davcoz
I have not seen this done, however I see no single reason for not doing it.
I have built my "Z" per the manual and have had no issues in 42 flihgts with the kit setup. (O.S. 46 powered)
"IF" I was to add much more power to this airframe, say a .60, I would definately consider going to the pull-pull system to eliminate all possible play in the controls.
BRG.
I have not seen this done, however I see no single reason for not doing it.
I have built my "Z" per the manual and have had no issues in 42 flihgts with the kit setup. (O.S. 46 powered)
"IF" I was to add much more power to this airframe, say a .60, I would definately consider going to the pull-pull system to eliminate all possible play in the controls.
BRG.
#4

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From: Danville, IN
Davecoz,
I have many flights on mine powered by an Enya .80 FS. I used a standard pushrod set-up due to it balanced out right. There would be no reason not to use pull-pull if you desired. If you would have used a .46 sized two stroke, the pull-pull's make sence from the fact that you would have had to use 3 - 5 ounces of nose weight to get an acceptable balance. PS. Looks great in the air!
Regards, 3DFlight
I have many flights on mine powered by an Enya .80 FS. I used a standard pushrod set-up due to it balanced out right. There would be no reason not to use pull-pull if you desired. If you would have used a .46 sized two stroke, the pull-pull's make sence from the fact that you would have had to use 3 - 5 ounces of nose weight to get an acceptable balance. PS. Looks great in the air!
Regards, 3DFlight
#5
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From: Rootstown,
OH
I discovered a problem with the aileron hatches on my gee bee. They measure 2 3/16" wide by 2 5/8" long and they are two small by 1/8" all around the opening in the wings. Hobbico doesn't know if the wing is wrong or the hatches are too small. Can someone measure their hatches and let me know what they are?
Thank you
Thank you



