GOLDBERG ULTIMATE
#1
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From: henderson,
KY
I just bought a goldberg ultimate 10-300 what I was wondering is if any of you have put it together with just the hardware that comes with the arf,it came with carbonfiber rod with split metal ends that go inside the rod this is for the elevator, and what servo for elevator and rudder,any advise would be helpful thanks
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From: Lebanon,
OH
I just finished mine this past weekend. I actually decided to use all of the stock hardware even the gray tailwheel for some odd reason. Final product still feels strong and looks good except for the plane covering scheme (hard for OSU buckeye fans to have a blue and gold plane[:@]). Anyway, I did find less drag when I went a bit longer with less angle then the pushrod diagram shows. When I set up the pushgrods per the diagram I got some binding. Good luck.
#3
I finished mine about two months ago used all the stuff that came with the arf. Only swichted to Sonic Tronics CA hinges.(Never had one fail).Flys great on a tired old OS 90.I have built 5 kits and I can not build one this cheap. Last week driving home from the field the dam thing blew out of the back of my truck.Only damage Dented front wing leading edge & knocked the wing mount block loose.Im sold on this thing.Enjoy.Mike
#5
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Here's mine. Used all the kit hardware except for the rudder pull-pull cable set-up; I like the Dubro 4-40 kit better for that.
The kit-supplied elevator pushrod is the Dave Brown offering; works great if you build it right. The instructions provided in the kit are correct and easy to follow.
The small clevises provided for the aileron connecting struts were brittle and broke right away. I replaced them with larger Great Planes clevises. Also, the 2-56 wire used for these is weak; either go to 4-40 wire or beef up the 2-56. I used K&S airfoiled aluminum tubing.
The kit-supplied elevator pushrod is the Dave Brown offering; works great if you build it right. The instructions provided in the kit are correct and easy to follow.
The small clevises provided for the aileron connecting struts were brittle and broke right away. I replaced them with larger Great Planes clevises. Also, the 2-56 wire used for these is weak; either go to 4-40 wire or beef up the 2-56. I used K&S airfoiled aluminum tubing.
#6
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Oops, forgot the servo question.
Futaba 9252 digitals on aileron and elevator. JR 4721 on rudder, Futaba 3004 on throttle.
IMO, you really need a better-than-standard servo on any closed-loop system (i.e, the pull-pull rudder set-up). I used the big-nut 4721 because I off-set my rudder servo with a bellcrank system. I wanted to center the elevator servo.
We got into a urination competition over this a while back, so I won't open up that one again. Suffice it to say, I like this way of doing it and it works fine.
Also, a lot of people have pooh-poohed the notion that digital servos are worth the added expense. I did too; until I tried them.
Futaba 9252 digitals on aileron and elevator. JR 4721 on rudder, Futaba 3004 on throttle.
IMO, you really need a better-than-standard servo on any closed-loop system (i.e, the pull-pull rudder set-up). I used the big-nut 4721 because I off-set my rudder servo with a bellcrank system. I wanted to center the elevator servo.
We got into a urination competition over this a while back, so I won't open up that one again. Suffice it to say, I like this way of doing it and it works fine.
Also, a lot of people have pooh-poohed the notion that digital servos are worth the added expense. I did too; until I tried them.




