CptSBW

I recently purchased this kit from Horizon. As many others have stated, one of the ribs in the left wing section was broken. I called Horizon and they sent me a new left wing half. Actually, because it was Friday and I was ready for a weekend of building, the great customer service rep brought me a new left and took the bad one back. ( I live one mile from them!!) She stated that they are trying to determine what is causing the problem, but are not sure yet what it is) Only problem with the new wing section is that the striping is obviously done as a set, because the mixed pair fits together great but the striping is off by about a quarter inch. Oh well, I can live with that.

But I have several issues that I would like to ask others about: First, the instructions show in detail (and photo) the elevator control horn on the right side of the fuse and the rudder control horn on the left. But the control rod on the right exits the top of the fuse, nowhere near the control horn and exits on the side on the left also nowhere near the control horn. The exit points match ok (but not perfect) if I reverse the horns (EL on left R on right). The elevator control rod seems to be in a bind in order to reach the control horn placed one inch from fuse as directed. Anyone else have this problem?

Second, the control rods do not slide smoothly at all. The rudder and elevator surfaces move very freely, but I am very unhappy with the way the rods seem to drag through the tubes. How can I fix this? Is anyone else experiencing this issue?

I would really appreciate any thoughts on these problems. I just found this site last week after it was mentioned at our flight club meeting and have already gotten some very good information from it.

fotta

Just passing on info that I read elsewhere. Apparently if you reverse the rods they will slide smoothly.

TERMAGATOR

My Feedback: (2)

forget about the rods and do this....its only gonna take 2 more servo extensions....Gator

jmboss

My Feedback: (22)

termagator,

Wow! Nice setup.

What does the control horn side look like? Pics?

What brand of horns did you use?

What engine are you using with this setup?

How did you balance out the plane?

Lead? Aluminum motor mount? Both?

Thanks,

_______
Joe B.
[email protected]

CptSBW

termagator,

That looks like a great answer. How much weight did you have to add out front to counter the two rear servos? I am using a Saito .91 out front. What engine do you have on yours? Are you using the stock horns or something else? Thanks for your input!

Steven

matlok

If for some reason you don't go w/termagator's setup (which I like!) and want to smoothen out the rods, you might try cutting some 1/8" or so pieces of inner nyrod and CA them every 3" or so along the rods. This would center the rods in the guide tubes and make them slide easier. Just a thought.

TERMAGATOR

My Feedback: (2)

jmboss, here are some more pics of mod's to the US60.
cptsbw ,still need to add tail weight(which I havent done) to get it to flatspin like the 40size stik. I even have the battery behind the servo tray in the fuse, servos in the back didnt effect its balance.here are some more pics , sorry to do this one at a time...Gator

TERMAGATOR

My Feedback: (2)

US 60 mods

TERMAGATOR

My Feedback: (2)

the horns are some of the included H9 stuff and some that I found that would mirror each other. use better ca hinges than the ones that come in this kit. I sealed my hinge line with 2"clear postal tape...G

TERMAGATOR

My Feedback: (2)

last one

lrjoyce

I had the same issues you did, both wings had broken ribs. In fact the left one was crushed. I took it to my local hobby shop and he got out another which was also broken. After 3 boxes he finally found one with the wings intact. As for the control rod sides, I just switched the rudder and elevator around and had to do a couple of funky bends on the wires to get them to work. I also replaced the rods supplied with 2-56 rods from my local hobby shop. That seemed to work alot better. I ended up with about 3 ounces of weight in the tail with the Saito .91 and an aluminum spinner. Hind sight being 20/20 I would have put the rudder and elevator servos in the rear and anything else I could to help with the balance. I should test fly it tomorrow hopefully.
One other thing that concerned me about it was the CG location. It says in the manual to balance it 4 1/8 inches from the
leading edge. That is about 3/4" behind the spar. Is that a problem. I am used to balancing airplanes on the wing spar.

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

I have a similar setup to termagator's on several of my planes, except I use solid 2-56 rods instead of cable. None of my planes are tail heavy and the rods are short enough not to contribute too much weight.

RED HOT

(US 60) Nice fix.
I put both rudder and elevator on each side of the fus. as far back as they would go. Used 4-40 push rods. With a Sato 100,
A 1400 ma battery mounted as far back as I can get the CG is at 4 1/8. The plane is at 6.00 lbs and the thrust of the 100 with a 14-6 prop is awesom. Will fly this week end.


RED HOT

psk560

My Feedback: (12)

Hey guys,

Ive enjoyed reading your tips and tricks. I also modified the
us60 some. I still ended up adding a little weight in the back.
I could have moved the battery back but I allready have oodles
of extension wire with quad flaps working. What throws are
you guys using? I'm using a magnum 91 four stroke. Is the 14-6 the best
prop for this combo? Any thoughts on my questions would
be greatly appreciated.

craig

TERMAGATOR

My Feedback: (2)

I have quit a bit of throw on my Stik. My high rate ele switch is used for the crow switch, so on low rate a have alot cranked in. I have a Saito 91 and i use a 14x8 prop. I bought a 15x6 prop but i havent tried it yet and I'm not sure I would have the ground clearance.
I was told by local eng guru that 14x6 wasn't enough prop for the 91 4C. would like to hear some feedback on a 14x6 on a 91-100 4C.....Gator

ec121

My Feedback: (2)

I have 14-6s on three different 91s. An old OS, a TT, and a Saito on a FLybaby, a Super Chipmunk, and a Stinson Reliant(84in) respectively. The engines will turn about 9600-10000rpm. This is not near the redline in the manuals, and they seem happy running 15% fuel. Plenty of power. I tried a 13-7 and it ran OK, but the 14-6 just seems to pull better and let the engine get up on the power curve easier. Haven't tried a 15-6. Might lose a little rpm and still pull well. Ground clearance could get to be an issue with a 15.

Rojeck

My Feedback: (22)

Have any of you had any other issues with the US60? I ask because I just lost mine when the elevator flew off.

I had a US 60 setup with a YS 91 AC and a 14 X 8 prop. On the third flight today, I chipped the propr and had to replace it. I only had a 13 X 10 so I put it on and went flying again. Two minutes into the flight I went chasing after a friend and enter a high speed dive and at about 30 ft off the gound the eleveator ripped off. I guess too much speed for this plane. She went in full throttle nose first, bent the crank and cracked the house of the motor. Also lost the receiver and two servos so far.

I have have had other issues with the plane like the axles falling off during flight, the wing dowels coming lose after 40 flights and having to be reglued, but nothing like this. Just wondering if anyone else had this type of a problem.

I ask, because I loved the plane and am thinking of getting another one and wondering what else I should watch out for.

Thanks
Sung

fotta

Rojeck / Sung,
Sorry to hear of your loss. Had you sealed the gap between the control surfaces?

Rojeck

My Feedback: (22)

Nope, did not seal the gap between the control surfaces. I also had a 100 plus flights on this plane, each flight was at least 20 minutes to35 minutes in duration. I will probably get another one within a week, gotta have one.

Sung

fotta

I have had a US (40 size) for a couple of weeks (with a Saito 72) and love it. In fact am thinking of getting one of the larger versions if/when I lose this one.

Perhaps the elevator ripping off was caused by high speed flutter due to the control surface gap not being sealed. The flutter causing the glue joints to rip out leading to loss of the control surface. Sorry if I am stating the obvious. I have also not sealed the gaps on my US40 though may take the time to do so after reading your post.

Rojeck

My Feedback: (22)

fotta, I have both the US 120 and the US 40 and by far the US 60 was the most fun of all the three. The US 40 was a little to snappy for me and the US 120 a little to gentle. The US 60 was a good combination of both and a pure joy to fly.


Sung

hilleyja

My Feedback: (3)

This is my 4th Ultra Stick, actually my 4.5th Ultra Stick:

1.) June 2000 - Feb 2001 (120: full size airlons, OS FX 1.60 -- dead stick plus stall into trees, wing totalled.)

1.5.) Feb 2001 - Apr 2001 (120: #1's plus new wing. QUAD flaps, but no TX to take advantage of them, did use flaps, OS FX 1.60 -- radio failure (might have been battery) loss of control into trees, airframe totalled, engine buried in sand.)

2.) Jun 2001 -- Jul 2001 (120: QUAD flaps with Futaba 8AU TX, Zenoah G-23 for one flight -- was a dog but engine had problems, remounted OS FX 1.60 after water, then alcohol, then oil bath to get sand out -- radio failure (suspect gas pipeline control signals interferred with RX -- had other radio probs in the same area, airframe severely damaged, sold and saw if fly for someone else with a Saito 180)

3.) Mar 2002 -- Mar 2002 (120: QUAD flaps with Futaba 8AU TX, OS FX 1.60, crashed on 1st takeoff -- dummy mechanic set airlons backwards, airframe totalled.)

4.) May 2002 -- Present (60: QUAD flaps with Futaba 8AU TX (will be Futaba 9C this week), Saito FA-100. Landing gear mishap resulted in damage and repair to landing gear and fuselage. This airplane has finally gotten me into the Ultra Stick flight zone. I have/do everything there is except 45 degree walking speed passes down the runway.) When I dive from 500+ straight down and flair to landing everyone starts to breath again.)

http://www.cma1193.com/MbrHgrPics/hilleyJ2002b.jpg

5.) ???? -- ???? (120: QUAD flaps with Futaba 9C TX, OS FX 1.60 or Zenoah G-23. Maybe!!! I have it and its in a box but am having too much fun with the 60 right now.)

Arthf

I had same alignment problem, and was able to get satisfactory control by bending the rod about 40 deg a little beyond the fuse exit point and then bending back 40 deg so the control horn lines up. I did the same at the servos. Good free control achieved.

arthf

noname-RCU

While on a combat (12+ guys trying to chop a 5 meter plastic tail) a guy chopped my stab off.

I had everything configured in my US 40 (Flaps, Crow, up elevator -> down ailerons, etc) and I was able to land without damage. I had to land very far away from the runway because of security issues, but still, my US handled pretty well without the stabilizer.

CptSBW

Finally had time to get in the garage and complete this plane. I stayed with the internal servos, but removed the pushrods and changed the alignment to get a smooth operation. I installed a 6v 1400mah battery in the rear just in front of the stab. Only had to add 1 1/4 oz of additional weight. Would not have needed that much but I run a 1 1/2 oz polished spinner on the engine.

After today I have 12 flights and I really love this plane. It meets every expectation I had and then some. Dropping in vertical on crow not only looks, but also sounds great. It is amazing how stable this plane is puttering around in crow mode. Very stable at even the slowest of speeds. With high rates and aileron/flap mixing this plane rolls so fast its almost scary! To anyone considering this plane I say go get one ! Thanks again to everyone for their ideas and inputs (and some great pictures).

Steven