Has anyone put together this combination? Will the spring starter fit? If so, is there enough depth inside the engine mount block for the spring starter and will the extra-large hole needed weaken the strength of the block for mounting the engine? Any suggestions?

One more thought: I read some of the posts about mouting the DA-50 to the CE. They mentioned something about exstending the mounting bolts from the standoffs, through the box, and into the firewall. Is this a recommended alternative to the instructions that say to mount the engine to the box wall?

The DA 50 requires 2 3/4" standoffs. No need to butcher or drill out the box or firewall. I think that needs to be done to the GP Pitts. The thing mentioned was that it is hard to get the bolts for the standoffs behind that box. I went trough the fuse, so therefor had to drill a hole in the firewall behind the box too in order to insert the screws from the fuse. It is just a little nerve wrecking, but can be achieved without any problem and some patience. Awesome combo with the DA 50. Plenty of power, and my engine is still new.

I am somewhat stuck with the Fuji BT-50SA because I already own it. The DA-50, BME-50, and ZDZ-50 would probably be better choices for maximum power/weight.

Initially I will stay with the Fuji for the above reason. My only decision at this moment is whether I should force-fit the spring starter in the configuration. I know I will have to butcher the box wall to fit the spring starter (it protrudes a little more than 1" from the back of the mounting plate and would force me to drill a 1.7" diameter hole in the middle of the box wall) and am concerned that doing so would weaken the overall engine mounting. I was hoping to get the airplane today (its coming from Pittsburg and that usually takes 1-2 days by UPS) and then I would be able to measure the depth of the box and compare that with the spring starter.

Jim,

I have the Fuji 50 SB with the spring starter but it was built by a professional builder. He's a member of RCU, Name "Check6" and maybe you can e-mail him your question. The plane fly's fantastic. If you would like his e-mail directly let me know. John

Jim,
I don't think cutting a hole in the box will be a big problem. It had to to do this to mine too in order to have room for the throttle and choke pushrods, and I think the hole is about 1" in diameter. Not a problem so far. Just make sure you pin the box with the recommended/supplied dowel.
I can only confirm what John says : The Eagle flies great and very predictive. I love mine.

DA50 all the way...my friend has his mounted. BIG STANDOFFS though! Very long liek someone said 2 3/4" <---thats right I believe

Dan

He said it was a pain to mount the motor because you cant get behind the firewall

See ya man and good luck

If you don't have a spring starter already, I'ld invest in either a good electric starter or a Jump Start. The saving in weight (8 oz?) would make a considerable change in the CG and reduce weight.

Yes, I did hear the Fuji is hard to hand flip. We have one at our field and it was promplty converted to electronic ignition to save weight.

I was going to get a spring starter for my fuji 50. Decided not to because of the spring hole issue. Hand starting this engine is easy after you get the hang of it about 8 flips. Just try it without.

I was going to go DA but it would have been too loud for my field.

How? By Whom? Where?

Jim,

Sent you a PM.

John

I'd like to know how to do that too...You guys really need a 3W IMO but the DA50 is an awesome motor Also...Lets see this plane DONE!!! heheh

Dan

I have a Fuji 50 getting converted to CH electronic ignition right now. It's destine for my friend's GP 1/3 Pitts. I've already converted a Fuji 64 to CH Synchrospark ignition and BCM wrap-around muffler, and it is one smooth and powerful engine. The Fuji 50 and 64 are very similar and share the same crankcase and muffler mounting bolt spacing. Converted to elec. ignition, these Fuji engines come very close to the power and lightweight of comparable commercial gassers.

Even if you take into account the elec. ign conversion kit, it is still no more more expensive than the BMEs and DAs.

The conversion is very simple and can be done by anyone with basic hand tools and a good head above the shoulders. Check it out at:

[link=http://www.ch-ignitions.com]www.ch-ignitions.com[/link]

I hear what you're saying Texas 3D. Installing the DA in the CE took the most time. I cut out the bottom of the box. Cut holes in the main firewall to get the socket in there to tighten the bolts and I also cut an access hatch in the bottom exhaust shute(bare wood section). This was a real life saver because I have the switches and battery stuff way up front. With the Duralites just forward of the throttle servo, the plane balances right on center CG.
Cant wait to fly it this weekend!!!!

I called CH Ignitions and talk to one of their engineers. After our discussion, he had me convinced to hold off changing out the ignition until I find out whether I have a balance problem with my current configuration. Essentially he feels that if the airplane balances properly with the originally-configured Fuji BT-50SA then the weight savings from the CH Ignition will be offset by the need to add weight. If, however, I have a nose heavy problem then the CH Ignition could save me 8ozs over the current configuration.

He also stated that his customers that have installed his CH Ignitions on the Fuji BT-50SA did, for the most part, because the Fuji fly-wheel gave them a space problem in a narrow cowl and the flywheel replacement they provide is much narrower. That is not a problem with the Christen Eagle II. The Fuji BT-50SA, with muffler, and side-mounted carburetor easily fits entirely within the cowl.

Having said that, what is the experience out there with the CG with this configuration?

Hey all,
Mtg.the DA50 is easy. Just put 1/4-20 bolts into the Stock DA standoffs with Locktite. Cut the heads off the bolts and use them like a threaded stud putting them through the firewall and into your blindnuts with locktite.No cutting or anything like that.
To extend my motor away from the box. I cut some 1/4" ply into 1" squares and put them between the firewall and the stock DA standoffs.Voila I got the 6.5" needed from the firewall to the back of the spinner..
Hope I explained it easy enough
Later,
Frank