I recently acquired the .40 sized Kyosho Cap 232 as my first aerobatic type plane (beyond the sticks & fun-fly I have now). I've been flying couple of years and would like to experiment a little with some 3D. I have searched the threads but haven't been able to locate much info on this plane. I need recommendations on engines and setup for this plane. The manual (typical Kyosho, just pics) leaves a lot to the imagination. Anyone with experience have any advice? What NOT to do?

Thanks,
Randy

I have one of these.There was an addendum sent out on this plane.It was to put 2 degrees uptrust on the motor.I mounted mine that way and it flys very well.Also be very stingy with the elevator throw.IT DONT TAKE MUCH AT ALL!!!!Hope this helps. Tivey

I wouldn't really recommend this airplane for 3D manuevers, but it will fly scale IMAAC sequences very well. Check out my website by clicking here for a complete review.

RANDY,
I really enjoy mine! But if it's your first one like this (and by your post it is) be very careful on the ELEVATOR! It is extremely touch and when pulling up into a vertical manuever you'll find yourself suddenly looking at the canopy. This is a "SNAPPY" plane and on landing bring her in hot or you'll drop the right wing. (mine does anyway)
I've flown mine with a K&B 48,OS 46,and a TT pro 46 I liked all of them but I may try my OS 70 FS next.
It's a fun plane to fly and once you get the hang of IT you can really throw it around in the air. BUT BEWARE OF THE SNAPPING TENDANCIES OF THIS AIRCRAFT..

by the way, did I mention this plane will snap???

RON in NEVADA

I have a Saito 80 on mine and it flys great. It will 3d very well. It will tumble and waterfall better than anything I have ever flown. I am sure that it would also torque roll if I was good enough to do it. It also does a great elevator and harrier considering it is a 40 sized plane. The blenders are very violent which makes me believe this think is built pretty well. Plane Insane must have a different setup than I do because the 3d abilities of this Cap impresses me. I do have mad elevator throw on high rates and that probably has a lot to do with it.

A previous reply i made.

Roy gave you an outstanding responce RC. I desided to respond also because of some significant differences between what Roy did and experienced and what I did and experienced. I did experience a lot of what Roy did.
I built 2 of these, one with the original Kyosho color schemes and one brietling, so there was quite a bit of time between the production of the planes. I powered one with a ST.45 ABC (pits muffler) and one with a webra.40 (pits muffler). They both perform the same. Flight characteristics are good, they have no ugly tendicies and don't snap under any conditions unless told to. They are extremely nice to land and takeoff. Both airplanes came out with the CGs at 3 and 3/8s without adding any lead and with the battery packs just over the front of the wing. 3&3/8s is the aft limit per the addendum as I recall. I have about a 150 flights on the first one and just a few on the second
Building:
Build per the addendum, especially control throws.
I used almost all the hardware that came with the plane even though it was of poor quality. I haven't had a failure of it in 150 flights but I would still recommend throwing it away. I'm just not smart enough to do that. I did throw away the shrink sleaving for the control rods and instead used flat cord and ca. I also chucked the bolts intended for the axels and replaced them with dubro axels. Threaded bolts in bending is a fundamental no no.
I hate the vacumn formed plastic for the wheel pants and cowl. Don't put the wheel pants on untill you have a good solid feel for the plane and can grease it in every time. Even then they probably won't last long. I used 9 screws to attach the cowl. 3 on top, 2 on each side and 2 on the bottom. The cowl is still cracking out at the attachments after only 150 flights.
The engines are completely enclosed in the cowl so I cut a one inch on a side triangle out of the cheek behind the engine head about .5 inch forward of the trailing enge of the cowl. I don't have any heat problems but I have heard of others who had but had not made this change.
Both planes came out between 5.25 and 5.5 lbs.
Landing gear mounting to the fuselage has not been a problem.
I a got good quality covering job on both. I mounted the canopy with 4 wood screws.
Flight:
I have just slightly more control throw than the addendum calls for and I'm very happy the way it flies. I haven't been able to get it to do tumble maneuvers as yet but that may be me. Flat spins aren't quite as flat as I would like. It will spin in either direction from upright or inverted without the need for aileron input. I like that. I also like the fact that it will stop snap maneuvers the instant I neutralize the controls. I don't have use a big handful of rudder to stop the rotation. This I'm sure is do to the very light wing.
On my first flights I had about 2 inches of rudder throw instead of the called for 1.25 inches. This was a mistake. The rudder will start stalling at about 1.5 inches. This results in pitching to the gear and in spins with aileron it will actually cause rotation in the oposite direction. I could actually roll the plane inverted, apply full rudder only and do an outside loop. The heading changed of course but it would complete the loop. Knife edge maneuvers are good with only a little rudder input.
Hope this helps.

Mine have no tendency to snap on elevator only at any speed even when pulled into a stall.

Thanks for the input so far.

I have a NIB Saito .72 that I was thinking about using in this plane. I originally bought it for my Cub, but I think it might find a new home here. What do you guys think?
I was planning to replace the stock wood dowel pushrods with DB 'glass ones. Is any one using a pull-pull rudder on this plane? Or should I stick with the pushrods? Any other recommendations!!?

Thanks Again,
Randy

I have 2...
One with a OS 52 Surpass...flying over 2 years...

New one with Saito 72....
I have a pull-pull rudder (Dubro)..and for the elevator pushrod, I am using Dubro fiberglass pushrod...
Using Hitec 605 Hi Torque servos on elevator and rudder...

Two things worth mentioning here...

A) Reinforce the landing gear block. This is very easy to do as I just took some triangle stock and epoxied it inside...

B) Like anyone who has flown this plane has mentioned...start with the CG as close to the nose as recommended and low rates on the elevators because she WILL SNAP....

Also on landings...once you setup and are in line with the runway, allow the plane to settle in and not apply too much up elevator...except when rolling out...

I have flown my Kyosho Cap 232 .40 size with a variety of engines. Saito .91, MVVS .40, Enya .50SS, OS .46FX and last the Saito .72.

I say go with the .72- why? Its light as the two strokes, but when hovering it will pull the plane up out of the hover, none of the two strokes would do that.

Mine weighs 5lbs, 3 oz (about 3 oz more with the .91). I had a previous one at 6lbs, 3oz with a Saito .65. Too heavy, some snapping tendency.

I used pull-pull on both rudder and elevator to save weight. Works great!

Ken

Could someone supply details on how to put a pull-pull on rudder and elevator(methods, specific hardware/brand). I have never modded a plane before, and would really appreciate the info. I can't wait to get my hands on this beauty!

Philip