Model Tech Dragon Lady and Cermark S2B Pitts
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From: Lexington, TX
Hey there fellow flyers!
This is my first post since joining RCU 1 hr ago! Please be patient with me. I am just getting back into the hobby after a 15 year absence. College education, Wife, 3 small kids, and money (or lack there of) forced me to sell off everything and get out[
]. BUT, I always knew and wanted to get back into the hobby. Well a few weeks ago I was going by a fellow workers desk and noticed a copy of RC Flyer siting there (March 2004). I zero'd in on the Cermark S2B Pitts ARF on the cover, my eyes glazed over, my heart raced and in that instant the bug was back!
So since then I have completed my tax return made my list and I'm fixing to take the plunge. I am going to plop down roughly $2000.00 on two new planes, two new engines, new radio... and a bunch of misc. stuff (the things that nickle and dime you to death)
. I wanted to buy the S2B because I just went bonkers over it, but I also wanted to buy a second (or rather first) plane to "learn" on again. I had already graduated off high wing planes before I gave the hobby up, and would consider myself and Intermediate flyer with about 8 months low wing experience (many moons ago though). So after much searching I decided to order the Model Tech Dragon Lady ARF. Actually, when I left the hobby ARFs were far and few between, so I was accustomed to building my own planes. But time and impatience does not allow for that right now.. maybe when I retire... yea right Ha! I am buying a new Super Tigre .90 to put on the Dragon Lady, and a Saito 1.50 to but on the S2B Pitts. Both will have Slimline pitts mufflers and the S2B will be rigged for smoke.
My question to anybody out there is... did I make the right choice in the Dragon Lady to "learn" on again.... and is the S2B ok for Intermediate flyers? Are the engines I have decided on appropriate for the planes? I have read a lot of good things about both in your threads, but the covering issue on the Dragon Lady bothers me... has anyone come up with a solution other than stripping the factory covering off and recovering myself? I will do that if I have to.. but didn't really want to. Any warnings of any nature would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance for your patience on this lengthy post... but I need....I want... input from people who have experience with either of these planes...
Cheers,
SkyBound
This is my first post since joining RCU 1 hr ago! Please be patient with me. I am just getting back into the hobby after a 15 year absence. College education, Wife, 3 small kids, and money (or lack there of) forced me to sell off everything and get out[
]. BUT, I always knew and wanted to get back into the hobby. Well a few weeks ago I was going by a fellow workers desk and noticed a copy of RC Flyer siting there (March 2004). I zero'd in on the Cermark S2B Pitts ARF on the cover, my eyes glazed over, my heart raced and in that instant the bug was back!
So since then I have completed my tax return made my list and I'm fixing to take the plunge. I am going to plop down roughly $2000.00 on two new planes, two new engines, new radio... and a bunch of misc. stuff (the things that nickle and dime you to death)
. I wanted to buy the S2B because I just went bonkers over it, but I also wanted to buy a second (or rather first) plane to "learn" on again. I had already graduated off high wing planes before I gave the hobby up, and would consider myself and Intermediate flyer with about 8 months low wing experience (many moons ago though). So after much searching I decided to order the Model Tech Dragon Lady ARF. Actually, when I left the hobby ARFs were far and few between, so I was accustomed to building my own planes. But time and impatience does not allow for that right now.. maybe when I retire... yea right Ha! I am buying a new Super Tigre .90 to put on the Dragon Lady, and a Saito 1.50 to but on the S2B Pitts. Both will have Slimline pitts mufflers and the S2B will be rigged for smoke. My question to anybody out there is... did I make the right choice in the Dragon Lady to "learn" on again.... and is the S2B ok for Intermediate flyers? Are the engines I have decided on appropriate for the planes? I have read a lot of good things about both in your threads, but the covering issue on the Dragon Lady bothers me... has anyone come up with a solution other than stripping the factory covering off and recovering myself? I will do that if I have to.. but didn't really want to. Any warnings of any nature would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance for your patience on this lengthy post... but I need....I want... input from people who have experience with either of these planes...
Cheers,
SkyBound
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From: Macho Grande, KS
Eight months low wing flying that long ago, I'd swallow my pride and get one like the Avistar to get back in the groove. I've got the Dragon Lady and it's a very forgiving low wing, but it's been a long time for you. About 15 yrs. ago, I was in your same position and decided to re-train on the Hobbico 60 size SuperStar.
The other side of argument is that with a buddy box, after a couple of weeks, you my have no problem with the low wing. You didn't mention how good you had become with the low wings before you left and which plane that was.
The other side of argument is that with a buddy box, after a couple of weeks, you my have no problem with the low wing. You didn't mention how good you had become with the low wings before you left and which plane that was.
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From: Lexington, TX
Thanks for the reply Randy,
I flew high wing for a year or so... back then. I got pretty good at the low wing I had.. and for the life of me I can't remember what it was! It was not common, because it was one of the first ARFs to hit the market and was not by a major manufacturer... I think they wen out of business. In fact nothing I have read in any of the magazines or elsewhere is jogging my memory of who made it or what it was called, but it was a forty size with balsa over foam wings all yellow with trike gear. I can tell you it was much like the dragon lady.. only 40 size. It did not have tappered wings. I could do loops, emelmans (sp!), rolls, spins... and land very well. I have very good eye/hand coordination, in fact I had very little direct training to begin with.. just kind of came natural I guess. The reason I don't want to get another high wing now is that I know I will get tired of it pretty quick and don't want to waste the money.
I flew high wing for a year or so... back then. I got pretty good at the low wing I had.. and for the life of me I can't remember what it was! It was not common, because it was one of the first ARFs to hit the market and was not by a major manufacturer... I think they wen out of business. In fact nothing I have read in any of the magazines or elsewhere is jogging my memory of who made it or what it was called, but it was a forty size with balsa over foam wings all yellow with trike gear. I can tell you it was much like the dragon lady.. only 40 size. It did not have tappered wings. I could do loops, emelmans (sp!), rolls, spins... and land very well. I have very good eye/hand coordination, in fact I had very little direct training to begin with.. just kind of came natural I guess. The reason I don't want to get another high wing now is that I know I will get tired of it pretty quick and don't want to waste the money.
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Skybound: I agree with Randy. That level of experience, that long ago.........
The smart move is to go with the Avistar to work off that "pilot rust".
Also, you can use the Astar for a radio test ship. I use an oooooold Balsa USA Swizzle Stick for that purpose. Every new radio I buy gets installed in the 'Stick and puts in about 20 flights to prove itself BEFORE I put it into one of my scale planes. Ditto for repaired or serviced radios.
Once you have mastered the 'star (in both left & right hand patterns you can go for the Dragon Lady. I flew a Lady with a Tigre .90 and Pitts style muffler. It is an honest airplane, meaning that it has no bad flying characteristics and will do what you control it to do. It flies great, but it does not fly itself. I have since up engined it with an ASP 1.08. The .90 Tigre was adequate but I wanted more power for verticals. This 1.08 is an intermediary step. The final engine will be a Webra 1.20. (love that power
) If you start increasing the power, make SURE you brace the tail and fin. [X(] Also I found the tail wheel assembly to be somewhat flimsy. I replaced it.
I also am a bipe person. I have zero (zip, nada, none) first hand experience with a Pitts. I have seen them at our field. They ARE responsive. Your skill level will need to be at the advanced level BEFORE you attempt an aerobatic bipe. (Pitts, Ultimate).
A bipe does not take more skill to fly that an aerobatic low wing, but it is slightly different. If you have mastered the Dragon Lady, you can try the Pitts. By mastering the design I mean you are able to fly any maneuver in a left or right hand pattern regardless of wind direction . To sharpen your reflexes you can increase the control throw amounts to increase responsiveness of the plane. Do this in small steps as it will affect the way the plane responds. By the way, seal the gaps between the ailerons and wing and the elevators and stabilizer. This will also make the plane more responsive to control input.
Well, that's about it. Welcome back. Happy landings, Tony

The smart move is to go with the Avistar to work off that "pilot rust".

Also, you can use the Astar for a radio test ship. I use an oooooold Balsa USA Swizzle Stick for that purpose. Every new radio I buy gets installed in the 'Stick and puts in about 20 flights to prove itself BEFORE I put it into one of my scale planes. Ditto for repaired or serviced radios.

Once you have mastered the 'star (in both left & right hand patterns you can go for the Dragon Lady. I flew a Lady with a Tigre .90 and Pitts style muffler. It is an honest airplane, meaning that it has no bad flying characteristics and will do what you control it to do. It flies great, but it does not fly itself. I have since up engined it with an ASP 1.08. The .90 Tigre was adequate but I wanted more power for verticals. This 1.08 is an intermediary step. The final engine will be a Webra 1.20. (love that power
) If you start increasing the power, make SURE you brace the tail and fin. [X(] Also I found the tail wheel assembly to be somewhat flimsy. I replaced it.I also am a bipe person. I have zero (zip, nada, none) first hand experience with a Pitts. I have seen them at our field. They ARE responsive. Your skill level will need to be at the advanced level BEFORE you attempt an aerobatic bipe. (Pitts, Ultimate).
A bipe does not take more skill to fly that an aerobatic low wing, but it is slightly different. If you have mastered the Dragon Lady, you can try the Pitts. By mastering the design I mean you are able to fly any maneuver in a left or right hand pattern regardless of wind direction . To sharpen your reflexes you can increase the control throw amounts to increase responsiveness of the plane. Do this in small steps as it will affect the way the plane responds. By the way, seal the gaps between the ailerons and wing and the elevators and stabilizer. This will also make the plane more responsive to control input.

Well, that's about it. Welcome back. Happy landings, Tony
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From: Lexington, TX
Tony,
Thanks for the reply... these are what I posted for. I guess by your and Randys response... that I should rethink my plan. It wouldn't hurt to go with a high wing... in fact the LHS here has several (barely used) for sale at reasonable price. But, I insist on a 60 size... maybe the Hobbistar 60 Mk.III. It can get a little breezy at times here, and I want something that can fly in that without too much problem. The 40's just get too squirely for my taste. The other point is... I can use it to train my kids on ... if they show an interest.
Ok.. back to the drawing board
Thanks again,
Monty
Thanks for the reply... these are what I posted for. I guess by your and Randys response... that I should rethink my plan. It wouldn't hurt to go with a high wing... in fact the LHS here has several (barely used) for sale at reasonable price. But, I insist on a 60 size... maybe the Hobbistar 60 Mk.III. It can get a little breezy at times here, and I want something that can fly in that without too much problem. The 40's just get too squirely for my taste. The other point is... I can use it to train my kids on ... if they show an interest.
Ok.. back to the drawing board
Thanks again,
Monty
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From: Lexington, TX
Ok guys.... how about a Great Planes Piper J-3 Cup with a Super Tigre G-61??? From all I read they are for Beginer to Intermediate, but still big enough for my taste.
SkyBound
SkyBound
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From: Macho Grande, KS
A Cub is not a high winds plane nor the best trainer. On the 4 or 5 days per season that Kansas doesn't have winds, I take along my H9 80" Cub for late evening flights.
I think your other post about the HobbiStar is a better route. That was the plane I got back into RC instead of the SuperStar I had mentioned earlier (memory fades after 50+). It also makes a good float-plane conversion or skis if you're far enough north. The kids would be able to use the Hobbistar also. The trainers don't get enough credit as a plane you can take out as a second or third plane of the day and crank it around, fly inverted or whatever like using for bomb drops at fun-fly's.
I think your other post about the HobbiStar is a better route. That was the plane I got back into RC instead of the SuperStar I had mentioned earlier (memory fades after 50+). It also makes a good float-plane conversion or skis if you're far enough north. The kids would be able to use the Hobbistar also. The trainers don't get enough credit as a plane you can take out as a second or third plane of the day and crank it around, fly inverted or whatever like using for bomb drops at fun-fly's.
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From: Lexington, TX
I agree... I just did some more reading and I don't think the cub would be what I want. I've got some thinkn to do.
thanks for your input.
thanks for your input.
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From: Queens,
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Sky: Nix the Cub. Its squirrely on the ground and a bit** in a cross wind. Every time you turn into the wind (as on final approach) it will tend to rise up. The flat bottom Clark Y airfoil balloons in the wind. The Cub is a ship intended for a calm day.
I don't know too many arf trainers. I agree a 60 sized one will fly better than a 40 sized one.
As I mentioned in the previous reply, the $ spent on a trainer are not wasted $. You can get alot of usage out of it. You can use it as a trainer for the kids, a radio test ship or at club fun flys. I use my trusty (& musty) Swizzle Stick for club fun flys. I also do a maneuver I call the spin & puke. I have enlarged the size of the ailerons and the rudder by 50%. I climb up to the club ceiling at the field (300') and throw it into a spin. The idea is to get in as many spins before you are forced to recover. [>:]I've come mighty close on several occasions.[X(]
By the way that Swizzle Stick is over 15 years old and has many-many (thousands?) flights on it. I have recovered it twice. I'd say I have gotten very good value out of it, wouldn't you?
I tend to be conservative in my approach to flying and that extends to the giving of advice. I do not think that one should advance to the next level until one has gotten all benefit from the current subject. Go with the 60 size trainer. Fly the ship until it is second nature to you and your reactions are automatic. Then you can increase the throws (slowly, in stages) and hone your flying skills. For want of a better phraseology, I will say develope your "feel" for what the plane is doing. This way you build new skills upon a solid foundation of experience.
By the way, my first 2 flying sessions out of the winter break are with my Bernie LW. Basically its a straight wing Kaos, 65"wingspan, Tigre .75. Once I work off the winter pilot rust I roll out the Lady, or this year my Kange CAP 232.
I'll put in another couple flying sessions and then roll out my 75" WW1 Halberstadt Biplane.
The point is, I do it in stages. I proceed when I am ready and feel comfortable to do so. Could I do it diffrently, sure, but I said I was conservative and I absolutely HATE to repair my planes.[:@]
Well, that certainly was a long winded opinion.
Happy landings, Tony.
I don't know too many arf trainers. I agree a 60 sized one will fly better than a 40 sized one.
As I mentioned in the previous reply, the $ spent on a trainer are not wasted $. You can get alot of usage out of it. You can use it as a trainer for the kids, a radio test ship or at club fun flys. I use my trusty (& musty) Swizzle Stick for club fun flys. I also do a maneuver I call the spin & puke. I have enlarged the size of the ailerons and the rudder by 50%. I climb up to the club ceiling at the field (300') and throw it into a spin. The idea is to get in as many spins before you are forced to recover. [>:]I've come mighty close on several occasions.[X(]
By the way that Swizzle Stick is over 15 years old and has many-many (thousands?) flights on it. I have recovered it twice. I'd say I have gotten very good value out of it, wouldn't you?
I tend to be conservative in my approach to flying and that extends to the giving of advice. I do not think that one should advance to the next level until one has gotten all benefit from the current subject. Go with the 60 size trainer. Fly the ship until it is second nature to you and your reactions are automatic. Then you can increase the throws (slowly, in stages) and hone your flying skills. For want of a better phraseology, I will say develope your "feel" for what the plane is doing. This way you build new skills upon a solid foundation of experience.

By the way, my first 2 flying sessions out of the winter break are with my Bernie LW. Basically its a straight wing Kaos, 65"wingspan, Tigre .75. Once I work off the winter pilot rust I roll out the Lady, or this year my Kange CAP 232.
I'll put in another couple flying sessions and then roll out my 75" WW1 Halberstadt Biplane. The point is, I do it in stages. I proceed when I am ready and feel comfortable to do so. Could I do it diffrently, sure, but I said I was conservative and I absolutely HATE to repair my planes.[:@]
Well, that certainly was a long winded opinion.
Happy landings, Tony.
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
Funny you should ask. I just flew my Cermark Pitts this afternoon for the first time. It has a Saito 1.50 and has more than enough power. While the Pitts is not difficult to fly, it goes exactly where you point it right now. This is one of the best airplanes I have flown, but you should hone your skills on something a bit more forgiving before flying the Pitts. But when you are ready, be prepared one incredible airplane.
#11
The Pitts is really something you should wait to fly. I personnaly never had one but my son had the GP Pitts with a FPE 32 and he says it wasn't the easiest to land or take off. He's into more of 3d type stuff and sold the Pitts as it's more for scale acrobatics. If something larger than a .40 size trainer is wanted consider the Hobbico Hobbistar 60. I've had two and would fly it the first thing very time I flew to more of less loosen up. It's a little bigger and easier to see. I lost mine to mother earth when my oldest son cut the tail off one Sunday afternoon! I've missed it ever since. Good luck and welcome back.
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From: Houston, TX
I got back into RC about 3yrs ago after a 10yr hiatus. I 've flown trainers, high wingers, and a lot of sailplanes before, but I didn't want to start with a flat-bottom wing trainer all again. I ended up getting a World Models Suer Stunt 40, which is an Ugly Stik type airplane that is built very light and has a symmetrical airfoil.
Well, after I put it together I went out to the field one early Sunday morning and was just taxiing it around intending on getting used to the ground handling first before the usual weekend crowd arrived. I also outfitted the airplane with flaps and was playing around with that as well. Okay, I got a little carried away with the throttle on one upwind run, and before I knew what happened the airplane just lifted off the ground. Holy @#$%^&*!!! I wasn't mentally ready to fly yet!!! In a split moment, I decided: ahhh ***... let's go for it, and gunned the throttle.
To make a long story short, I flew it around just fine - for the first time in 10yrs - and landed the airplane in one piece. I went on to fly the Stik several more times, and by the end of the day, I felt as if I never left RC flying. What they say about RC flying like riding bicycle - once you learned it, you'll never forget how - is absolutely true.
Now, I do not recommend you do what I did. Go get yourself a nice light wing loading sport airplane. 4*60, Stik, or even the Dragonlady should work just fine. Stay lightweight and don't over power it with a heavy engine. Get an experienced flyer to buddy box with you to take away the first time jitter - and go fly.
Well, after I put it together I went out to the field one early Sunday morning and was just taxiing it around intending on getting used to the ground handling first before the usual weekend crowd arrived. I also outfitted the airplane with flaps and was playing around with that as well. Okay, I got a little carried away with the throttle on one upwind run, and before I knew what happened the airplane just lifted off the ground. Holy @#$%^&*!!! I wasn't mentally ready to fly yet!!! In a split moment, I decided: ahhh ***... let's go for it, and gunned the throttle.
To make a long story short, I flew it around just fine - for the first time in 10yrs - and landed the airplane in one piece. I went on to fly the Stik several more times, and by the end of the day, I felt as if I never left RC flying. What they say about RC flying like riding bicycle - once you learned it, you'll never forget how - is absolutely true.
Now, I do not recommend you do what I did. Go get yourself a nice light wing loading sport airplane. 4*60, Stik, or even the Dragonlady should work just fine. Stay lightweight and don't over power it with a heavy engine. Get an experienced flyer to buddy box with you to take away the first time jitter - and go fly.
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From: San Antonio,
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Skybound,
I would invest in the Great Planes Simulator along with a high wing trainer. You might check you local hobby shop for maybe a used trainer setup sometimes you can find a good deal on a used airplane also. The Dragon Lady is a good airplane to fly as a third/second airplane. She handles very well at low speeds and such. You could always use the radio pack out of either the cermark or the dragon lady and use it in the trainer. A .46 sized engine will not cost you much compard to wrecking either one of the birds you are buying.
John
I would invest in the Great Planes Simulator along with a high wing trainer. You might check you local hobby shop for maybe a used trainer setup sometimes you can find a good deal on a used airplane also. The Dragon Lady is a good airplane to fly as a third/second airplane. She handles very well at low speeds and such. You could always use the radio pack out of either the cermark or the dragon lady and use it in the trainer. A .46 sized engine will not cost you much compard to wrecking either one of the birds you are buying.
John
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From: Houston, TX
Oh, forgot to mention: I actually bought a Hobbistar .60 MkII as my backup starter airplane - thinking the Stik wasn't gonna last long.
That turned out to be a very good flyer as well. It will also work well as a first plane for your getting back to RC.
That turned out to be a very good flyer as well. It will also work well as a first plane for your getting back to RC.




