Thanks for the response. I saw your pictures but more then once in the past I have thought I had plenty of room to fit an engine only to find that I had been had by the thrust angle. Even though there was plenty of room in the cowl for the engine, because of the thrust angle the muffler of the engine on my Rearwin speedster required a large cutout in the side of the cowl in order to clear. Ruined the looks of an otherwise beautiful plane. Keep us posted as you progress Your pictures were the deciding factor for me when it came to this plane. Thunder Tiger isn't really known for producing a plane that warrents the price tag they placed on this one but it looks like they have outdone themselves this time.

Does the plane look to be pretty sturdy? I looked at your pictures and the retract mounting blocks appear to be very lightly glued.

I got my RB the other day and have a general building tip question. There are plastic retract bay covers that require trimming. What is the best way to get a nice clean cut with this flimsy plastic? Its a bit too thick for exacto and scissors leave a ratty cut. So far I did some of both both and just sanded it as smooth as possible on the edges. Anybody have a great tip here?

Frag, how about a dremel tool with a small cutting bit??

I use this on all my cowl trimming and it makes a nice clean cut.

I usualy just cut into the plastc with a knife, and then you can break away the plastic by bending it. This gives a crisp endge.

cstevec:

I have all but completed my radio and engine (OS-FX-1.60) installation into my RB and it fits without issue. I will be using a Brison 1.60 Pitts style muffler. There is NO cutting of the cowl needed except for the glow plug access and the muffler discharge.

To install this engine, all you need to do is insert 1/4" wood dowels into the EXISITNG motor mounting holes in the assembeled firewall, (3 pc's epoxied together), then drill NEW holes as per the detail below and YOUR DONE.

The engine has sufficent clearances in all directions and actually looks like the airframe was made for it !

A couple of assembly observations:

1. When installing the firewall into the ply side frames, it will go MUCH easier if you insert the firewall into the (shorter) frame FIRST then flex the other frame and walk the firewall into position as the longer frame has much more flex.

2. DO NOT GLUE the rear frame support bulkhead in place until you have installed and located the FRAME assy. into the fuse and thru the firwall. Then position the rear support bulkhead and CA together.

3. This is true for the bulkhead in the rear of the fuse for the tailwheel as well. Fit ALL pc's togther DRY then CA into place.

4. I added 3/8" tri-stock to the side frames on the firewall side of the fuse in front of the F/G.


I was hoping to get it done over the long weekend, however, the Robo-struts won't be here till the end of the week.

I will post some pictures this evening.

BR.

Thanks for the feedback guys! Keep the building tips coming as we go here....

Hey there Vampire, just wondering what kind of prop clearance will you have with that 1.60? I had thought about ST 2300, but didn't know if I would have enough prop clerance since it swings an 18 inch prop. If you could, send pics with your engine mounted and prop on, when ever you get that far, just kinda currious. Thanks

A

aps f4u:

I'm already there and the kit comes with a 3 bladed spinner and thus since the O.S. FX-1.60 calls for an 18-8 > 10 2 blade, we will be using a 16 x 8 3- bld. and represents NO issues with ground clearance. (rule of thumb- 2 bld to 3 bld, drop 2" on Dia. and HOLD the pitch).

Pic's to follow this evening.

BR

Kerry, did you get a chance to fly it this weekend or no?

Wait up!!!

I haven't received mine from Quantum yet, since I didn't order until April, I must still be down the list a ways...

Desert Toad try Tower..I placed my latest and ultimately my final order with them on 8/31 with the notification at order time that the RB were due in early September. It shipped on 9/1 to my pleasant surprise! And, you get $25.00 off orders over $250.00 right now......


And no, I don't work for Tower

Thanks for the info Vampire. I ordered the 16X8 Master Airscrew today from tower for this rascal, tried to get a 16X10 but they are back ordered. The plane should be here this week and it will be my next project as I finished up my SIG Sun Dancer last night and I have got the hots for a fast plane thats easy to build.

Question though. I've never built a plane with a fiberglass fuse before but wouldn't you need to use epoxy to fit the wooden parts in the fuse? I would think CA would be too brittle.

Engine install pic's (O.S. FX-1.60)

more pic's.

Yes, tack parts w/ CA+ then epoxy.

The box you see above the engine is for the Battery. I believe with the 1.60 install the battery will be used elsewhere in the model for final balance. I like that as dead weight in any aircraft is a sin.

Tower Hobbies.

Yes, I suppose I could do it. Might feel like I'm cheating, but I suppose the feeling will pass on the day of arrival.

A bit more news regarding the RB, I was planning on using a set of Springair series 300 w/ 7/16" robo struts however, I had a chance conversation with Sierra Giant Scale gear and the conversation of the RB came up and they have informed me that they aquired a kit for fit-up and expect to offer a complete pneumatic gear w/ a 1/2" strut set.

I'm expecting to get word on avaiability today and I will pass on details.

I have scraped the 3" tires supplied in the kit (since I only got 1 anyway) for a pair of 3-1/2" Sullivans.

CONSTRUCTION NOTE:
1. The landing gear plates are butt glued to the their respective supporting ribs. With such long gear legs, turning these plates out of the wing in the event of a harder than normal landing is high, thus I have epoxied 3/8" triangle stock under the mounting plate at each rib location and will be installing a set of Du-Bro threaded inserts thru the gear plate to mount the gears.

2. Do to my engine selection, I have substituted the Elevator Pushrod wires out to 4-40 for less flex and is VERY easily done. I used the wires supplied for all other controls.

Once I get the "legs" for my Bear it will be off to the airfield.

BR

Guys, why wont a ST 2300 engine work in this? A Pitts type muff would fit if the pipes are cut and re-welded to match the curves needed to exhaust it properly. Did someone say the prop diameters start at 18 inches? ! [ with this engine?] The next size ST down is a .91 and thats too small for us at 4500 feet. If any of you guys are trying to put a ST 2300 in this plane , please post all your findings ASAP. This would make a nice winter project. Will order as soon as I get some feed-back. MM PS, How about a retractable tailwheel for this beast.

I am putting a ST 2300 in my RB, I have it out of the box and on the table right now, soon as I get my wife to buy me a pitts muffler and a set of retracts for my birthday, I'll get the Bear going. I'll get going on the install of the 2300, if I can just stop going to the field to fly every day I have off, I'll start working on it. I will post some pic's when I get started, if some one else dosent beat me to it.

A

Mormonmike:

I tried to find the dimensions for the ST-2300 on the ST web site and could not.

However, here are the critical dimensions for the OS-FX-1.60 so you can make the comparison:

Length from Center of Glow Plug to front of Prop Thrust Washer = 80 mm (3.14" )
Height from centerline of crankshaft (mounting beams) to top of head (less glow plug) = 96.7 mm (3.80" )
Width of outside to outside of crankcase mounting rails = 74 mm (2.91" )
Displacement = 26.3 cc (1.6 ci )

Hope this helps.

APS F4U/ Vampire, Well, thank you kindly pardners, Thats right neighborly of you. Im sure this is going to be one of those $1,000 projects but , what the heck. How about the retractable tailwheel idea. Would it be worth the extra headache? MM

My thoughts on the retract tailwheel install is that it sure would look nice but the tail moment on this airframe is very long in ref. to the nose moment and I strongly feel that the tailwheel install may have a signifcant impact on the amount of weight needed to balance. The only thing I hate worse than spindly wire gear legs, is performance stealing DEAD weight.

I can tell you that w/ the 1.60 engine, cowl, tail feathers and the kit stock tail wheel installed, the fuselgae is STILL TAIL HEAVY and thus the basis of my comments. The addition of the prop, spinner and muffler (Brison Pitts style) would likely bring the balance very close to the recommended C/G. All of this is ref. info only. (Wings and cockpit NOT installed.)

I do believe that w/ the 1.60 or 2300 installed that the retractable tail wheel will be less of a issue due to the increased engine/muffler weight.

Will advise as soon as possible.

Scissors made for cutting lexan car bodies work great at trimming plastic. I use them to trim canopies and wheel well covers with great success.

It's too bad Master Airscrew doesn't make any 3-blade props with pitch over 10. If you want speed, then you got to use a high pitched prop. Some speed and efficiency are already lost by going to a 3-blader.

I wish TT would release a US Navy version with flaps. By the way, how big is the stock fuel tank? Is there enough room in the fuse for either a 20 or a 24 oz tank? Mine will be powered by a YS 140 if I ever get one.

Check with Central Hobbies for APC props they sell large pitch 3-blades like 15 x 13.5 or 13.4 x 13.5 if you need one

Richard:

The stock supplied tank is 16 oz.

There is sufficent room for a 20 > 24 oz. tank if desired.