ThunderTiger Rare Bear
#701
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From: Desmoines, WA
I had a rare bear that crashed.ace said we shoved the tube in the stabliser to far and broke a rib.that;s a bunch of bull.what happened is the balsa wasn;t glued to the ribs that why the stabiliser seperated.all the ribs were still glued to the carbon fier tubes.there were three builders at a fly in when it happened and they said the same thing.
#702
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From: North Port,
FL
After reading all Rare Bear posts, I went to the Hobby Shop and purchased two Rare Bears. Its a Nice Plane and I think anyone who builds this model should know that you always beef up the landing gear bays and as for the tail, you must take care and fit it carefully as you would any other ARF. My Bear (Saito 150) flew like a champ with NO problems, so you complainers should learn to build these things right the first time. Its a Hobby and should be fun, and at no time be a JOB. Yes I think the Bear kit could be improved and I had the joy of doing it myself. Several key improvements were made to the firewall, gear bays and tail. And it all worked well. Its just a hobby, Enjoy It!
#703
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From: Spring,
TX
Howard,
I'm getting a little tired of seeing your childish rant about how you were not at fault. It's basically your word against Ace's, and since I haven't seen posts of others having tail seperations until nightchook's post, I'd say tail seperations are NOT a common failure.
In the direct quote of your original post about this incident, I've Boldfaced your statement that you sent Ace Hobby Distributors pictures. Please post copies of the pictures you sent Ace and let the community decide if the failure was due to your lack of attention to detail while building the RB kit, or if there was a manufacturing problem with your kit. That is, if you have the Cajones to post the pics. Anecdotal evidence about how many flight instructors or other builders witnessed the failure doesn't cut it. Visual proof is what I want to see.
Rich
P.S. Learn to punctuate and use capital letters, your inability to use proper sentence structure is indicative of someone that isn't detail oriented.
I'm getting a little tired of seeing your childish rant about how you were not at fault. It's basically your word against Ace's, and since I haven't seen posts of others having tail seperations until nightchook's post, I'd say tail seperations are NOT a common failure.
In the direct quote of your original post about this incident, I've Boldfaced your statement that you sent Ace Hobby Distributors pictures. Please post copies of the pictures you sent Ace and let the community decide if the failure was due to your lack of attention to detail while building the RB kit, or if there was a manufacturing problem with your kit. That is, if you have the Cajones to post the pics. Anecdotal evidence about how many flight instructors or other builders witnessed the failure doesn't cut it. Visual proof is what I want to see.
Rich
P.S. Learn to punctuate and use capital letters, your inability to use proper sentence structure is indicative of someone that isn't detail oriented.
My name name is Howard.I bought a rare bear 90 size had a stabliser seperation which was a manufacture problem.they said it was my fault and it wasn;t my fault. i would sure like to know what that means on real.it happend on the second flight at around half throttle at level flight.there were seven instructors at are fly in when the plan crashed.they looked it all over and come to the same conclusion. manufacture problem. i sent pictures and the rear section of plane. this was going on over a month.well they said they would send me a new plane for there cost which would be not much less then I payed for the plane. well I guess won;t ever buy from ace hobby & thunder tiger again. take Heed. HOWARD
#705
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From: Fayetteville, GA
hey dont you have a copy we would like to see them for ourselves because steve at ace probably chunked them in the trash didnt you keep a copy was it a digital photo just post them
#709
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From: Desmoines, WA
yes sir I used robar Air retracts.reinforced the area where the retracts slipped in.they worked good the first flight. can;t tell you about the second one lost the plane on that flight which you have know dought heard about.have a nice day and hope you have better luck then I had.see ya.
#710
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From: pleasant view,
TN
I already have my firewall and ply frame installed in the fuse. Like Vampire, I'm mounting an OS 160 in the RB. Back of spinner plate is about 1/4" out from front of cowl.
Question: Any way to slightly change the down thrust angle at this point....maybe a washer between the mount and firewall on the lower side to reduce the down thrust???
Motor lined up great with cowl after moving mounting hole location on right side by approx .100.
I don't know if it's just me, but as I spin the cowl on the fuse, it seems to line up with more even clearance to the Spinner back plate at one point better than others.
Question: Any way to slightly change the down thrust angle at this point....maybe a washer between the mount and firewall on the lower side to reduce the down thrust???
Motor lined up great with cowl after moving mounting hole location on right side by approx .100.
I don't know if it's just me, but as I spin the cowl on the fuse, it seems to line up with more even clearance to the Spinner back plate at one point better than others.
#711
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From: Spring,
TX
RC Flying Head,
Since you've already installed the firewall the only way yo can change the right and downthrust is by using washers. Since .100 inch of washers on the right side seems to shift the engine mount back left try this combination of washers under the mount.
When viewing from the front of the aircraft.
Top Left 1 washer, Top Right 0 washers
Bottom Left 3 washers, Bottom Right 2 washers.
Since you already established that a single washer under each right engine mmount boss shifted your right thrust to the "That looks about Right" point, when you add to the left side bottom you must add the smae number to the right bottom.
I reset my firewall during assembly and as I posted earlier establiushed 2 degrees down and 1.5 degrees of right thrust as my starting points.
I wish I had spent more time working on my RB, we've had perfect weather in Houston Friday and yesterday, with a repeat for today. Looks like we'll have mid to high 70's, CAVU with a light breeze. We've got a big high pressure area over the top of us right now. I did fly my beater trainer plane, a Lion Models ARF Spitfire with a Saito 80.
Rich
Since you've already installed the firewall the only way yo can change the right and downthrust is by using washers. Since .100 inch of washers on the right side seems to shift the engine mount back left try this combination of washers under the mount.
When viewing from the front of the aircraft.
Top Left 1 washer, Top Right 0 washers
Bottom Left 3 washers, Bottom Right 2 washers.
Since you already established that a single washer under each right engine mmount boss shifted your right thrust to the "That looks about Right" point, when you add to the left side bottom you must add the smae number to the right bottom.
I reset my firewall during assembly and as I posted earlier establiushed 2 degrees down and 1.5 degrees of right thrust as my starting points.
I wish I had spent more time working on my RB, we've had perfect weather in Houston Friday and yesterday, with a repeat for today. Looks like we'll have mid to high 70's, CAVU with a light breeze. We've got a big high pressure area over the top of us right now. I did fly my beater trainer plane, a Lion Models ARF Spitfire with a Saito 80.
Rich
#713

WOW: 24 pages of postings and still counting.
Which retracts work best in this kit? I'd like to use the Robart 550-series if they'll fit. I want the wheels and Robostruts to fit all the way inside the wing. Which ones should I get: 85 degrees or 90 degrees?
Has anyone messed with a retractable tail gear in this kit? Seems like the installation would be a slam-dunk with that removable cover and all.
Thanks in advance for whatever advice you can offer-
Which retracts work best in this kit? I'd like to use the Robart 550-series if they'll fit. I want the wheels and Robostruts to fit all the way inside the wing. Which ones should I get: 85 degrees or 90 degrees?
Has anyone messed with a retractable tail gear in this kit? Seems like the installation would be a slam-dunk with that removable cover and all.
Thanks in advance for whatever advice you can offer-
#714
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From: Edwardsville,
IL
Dragracingcars,
shut the hell up. people don't read these posts to read about you little story. get over it. crashes happen to everyone! I have read this post and up until now have not said anything, however i feel that all your posts are imature and stupid and a waste of space!! This post is to help others who are building this plane. If we wanted to listen to crap like you posting, we would turn the TV on and watch a soap opera. this thread is going to hell becasuse of you. Just because you had a bad experience, dosn't mean we care to hear it. there are a couple others that will occasionally make rash remarks, but only OCCASIONALLY!! you always are full of them! I think I speak for everyone when I say get a life, get over it and most of all GET LOST!! (either that or say something helpful and change you attitude and try to get along with people) !@#$
shut the hell up. people don't read these posts to read about you little story. get over it. crashes happen to everyone! I have read this post and up until now have not said anything, however i feel that all your posts are imature and stupid and a waste of space!! This post is to help others who are building this plane. If we wanted to listen to crap like you posting, we would turn the TV on and watch a soap opera. this thread is going to hell becasuse of you. Just because you had a bad experience, dosn't mean we care to hear it. there are a couple others that will occasionally make rash remarks, but only OCCASIONALLY!! you always are full of them! I think I speak for everyone when I say get a life, get over it and most of all GET LOST!! (either that or say something helpful and change you attitude and try to get along with people) !@#$
#715
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From: Nor Cal,
CA
With the robart 550's and not lowering the gear mount plates the wheels won't fit in flush (or the gear door wont be flush). You;'ld have to lower the mounting plates about 1/4 inch (give or take). I'm sure a retractable tail wheel would be a simple instal... The downside is the weight in the tail...Mine came out signifigantly tail heavy with the stock setup.
here some pictures of how much they stick out...
On another note, I've pretty much finished getting my RB ready to go again... (Gear mount folded on a perfectly greased landing on asphalt after a hand ful of flights)....the blocking i did for the gear rails will make it bomb proof....the wing will rip off before than damn gear rotates.
One thing i'm still a bit concerned about is cooling for the engine..... Anyone have any issues ???? My ys 140 is pretty much enclosed except fot the valve cover.... and the spinner sure does block off alot of the intake (allthough i suppose it has a ram effect on pushing air in)....any thoughts? On my last flight it sure seemed like my ys was overheating, but it's also a new motor and haven't gotten it perfectly dialed.
here some pictures of how much they stick out...
On another note, I've pretty much finished getting my RB ready to go again... (Gear mount folded on a perfectly greased landing on asphalt after a hand ful of flights)....the blocking i did for the gear rails will make it bomb proof....the wing will rip off before than damn gear rotates.
One thing i'm still a bit concerned about is cooling for the engine..... Anyone have any issues ???? My ys 140 is pretty much enclosed except fot the valve cover.... and the spinner sure does block off alot of the intake (allthough i suppose it has a ram effect on pushing air in)....any thoughts? On my last flight it sure seemed like my ys was overheating, but it's also a new motor and haven't gotten it perfectly dialed.
#717
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From: LondonMiddlesex, UNITED KINGDOM
dragracingcars
all of us here have built and crashed planes - However, when we pile one in to the dirt, most of us take whatever lessons can be learnt from the experience in good humour and get on with looking forward to the next project. Sometimes it's our fault, sometimes it's not, but it's still all part of life's rich pageant and a character building experience to boot.
The only thing that your crying wingeing, name-calling, tantrums hissy-fit etc achieves is to p**s people off in this thread whilst at the same time probably guaranteeing that Ace will go out of their way to avoid dealing with you any further.
So...it's enough already, please quit trolling on this thread.
Sincerely
Dave
all of us here have built and crashed planes - However, when we pile one in to the dirt, most of us take whatever lessons can be learnt from the experience in good humour and get on with looking forward to the next project. Sometimes it's our fault, sometimes it's not, but it's still all part of life's rich pageant and a character building experience to boot.
The only thing that your crying wingeing, name-calling, tantrums hissy-fit etc achieves is to p**s people off in this thread whilst at the same time probably guaranteeing that Ace will go out of their way to avoid dealing with you any further.
So...it's enough already, please quit trolling on this thread.
Sincerely
Dave
#718
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From: pleasant view,
TN
RBeav533
Thanks for the input. I'll try it.
Vampire, What spinner nut did you use on the OS160? The included is too small.
Haven't received my Retracts yet. Darrell from Sierra Giant Scale is building me a set of retracts for the RB. He says they will be much improved. I'll post pictures when I get them in.
You know, it would be a novel thing to only use this post to further the enjoyment of RC Modeling.
Thanks to all of you for your help in the building of the Rare Bear. This is only my 7th ARF to build and I consider myself a complete novice...learning every day.
Regards,
Dudley
The RC Flying Head
In the Hanger: FR: Flight Ready / CB: Crash & Burn
Hobbico Nexstar Trainer OS 46 (FR my first plane)
Sig Four Star 60 OS 61 (CB after 1 tank fuel...Lost my orientation..upside down..wrong move of the thumb...done!!!)
GP U Can Do 3D 90 Saito 100 (FR great plane after a trainer..as well as the 3D stuff, flys great scale)
GP Ryan STA 1.20 OS 91 4stroke (FR) I love this plane...I'm putting a Saito 150 on it!
GP Lancair Saito 82 (FR Built this plane and installed scale LED running lights..this plane flys like a dream. Installed Sierra Nose Gear..it is awesome!)
Lanier Predator OS LA 40 (FR)
GP Viper OS LA 40 (FR)
TT Rare Bear OS 160, Sierra Retracts, Robart straigt leg Struts (Currently on the bench)
Thanks for the input. I'll try it.
Vampire, What spinner nut did you use on the OS160? The included is too small.
Haven't received my Retracts yet. Darrell from Sierra Giant Scale is building me a set of retracts for the RB. He says they will be much improved. I'll post pictures when I get them in.
You know, it would be a novel thing to only use this post to further the enjoyment of RC Modeling.
Thanks to all of you for your help in the building of the Rare Bear. This is only my 7th ARF to build and I consider myself a complete novice...learning every day.
Regards,
Dudley
The RC Flying Head
In the Hanger: FR: Flight Ready / CB: Crash & Burn
Hobbico Nexstar Trainer OS 46 (FR my first plane)
Sig Four Star 60 OS 61 (CB after 1 tank fuel...Lost my orientation..upside down..wrong move of the thumb...done!!!)
GP U Can Do 3D 90 Saito 100 (FR great plane after a trainer..as well as the 3D stuff, flys great scale)
GP Ryan STA 1.20 OS 91 4stroke (FR) I love this plane...I'm putting a Saito 150 on it!
GP Lancair Saito 82 (FR Built this plane and installed scale LED running lights..this plane flys like a dream. Installed Sierra Nose Gear..it is awesome!)
Lanier Predator OS LA 40 (FR)
GP Viper OS LA 40 (FR)
TT Rare Bear OS 160, Sierra Retracts, Robart straigt leg Struts (Currently on the bench)
#719

Gee, those Robart 550s look like they leave the wheel sticking out quite a bit. Did you use the 85 degree or the 90 degree retracts? Theoretically (with dihedral) the 85s should work but the 90s should bring the wheel up into the wing a little more.
Perhaps another theory on the stab failures: I don't think it's the carbon tubes or broken ribs at all. If the tubes are too long they will break the outboard ribs which don't contribute much to overall strength. Not using enough glue (on the tubes ) shouldn't make any difference, either, since we fly 160-180mph racers with plug-in stabs that are only held on with tape (!). I believe that the extra trim load on the elevator (required to overcome the 3.5 degrees of downthrust at high speed), probably made worse by overpowering the aircraft, might have caused the stab to fail by breaking downward near the root (probably just outside the attachment point).
I haven't seen any of the photos but having read about the tubes being too long and a few broken ribs just doesn't make much sense to me. I heard of a TT RB stab failure locally (Phoenix) before even reading this forum so it appears to be more than just an isolated incident. From what I understand the local failure involved a YS 1.10 and substantial airspeed. I'll check the tube lengths when building mine but I'll bet that removing most of the downthrust before installing a YS 1.20 will probably keep mine safe.
Perhaps another theory on the stab failures: I don't think it's the carbon tubes or broken ribs at all. If the tubes are too long they will break the outboard ribs which don't contribute much to overall strength. Not using enough glue (on the tubes ) shouldn't make any difference, either, since we fly 160-180mph racers with plug-in stabs that are only held on with tape (!). I believe that the extra trim load on the elevator (required to overcome the 3.5 degrees of downthrust at high speed), probably made worse by overpowering the aircraft, might have caused the stab to fail by breaking downward near the root (probably just outside the attachment point).
I haven't seen any of the photos but having read about the tubes being too long and a few broken ribs just doesn't make much sense to me. I heard of a TT RB stab failure locally (Phoenix) before even reading this forum so it appears to be more than just an isolated incident. From what I understand the local failure involved a YS 1.10 and substantial airspeed. I'll check the tube lengths when building mine but I'll bet that removing most of the downthrust before installing a YS 1.20 will probably keep mine safe.
#720
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From: Edwardsville,
IL
#721
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From: Edwardsville,
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Dragracingcars,
I just want to apologize for what i previously said! I'm sorry. i overreacted. I would however, appreciate it if you would kindly stop trash talking the models and Ace. this would be appreciated by all! I think what I said eariler was a little to harsh and for that i apologize. But it is just really frustrating when everything said is negitive. please consider this.
Sincerely,
Brian
I just want to apologize for what i previously said! I'm sorry. i overreacted. I would however, appreciate it if you would kindly stop trash talking the models and Ace. this would be appreciated by all! I think what I said eariler was a little to harsh and for that i apologize. But it is just really frustrating when everything said is negitive. please consider this.
Sincerely,
Brian
#722
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From: north of the basin,
CA
there is a guy at our flying field who has been working on his rarebear. it is powered by a YS140DZ and he has put robart air's in them as well after having had his gear rip out on the first flight. i watched him fly a couple of weeks ago but he was having engine trouble.... from what i say, it looked like it will be fast as it took off like a rocket and he made one seemingly fast pass before the engine started loading up.
he also told me that the new kits are replacing the rear horizontal stabilizer ribs from balsa, to lite ply. i can't confirm this - but that seems a step in the right direction and tells me that thunder tiger is aware of the stabilizer being a potential failure point.
oh yeah, as for the dragon car racer guy with the chips on his shoulders... if you guys want to report his hostility to the RCU powers that be, they'll take care of him. crossfire retalliation only adds fuel to the fire and takes you down to his level of maturity. this thread could use a moderator right about now. just my opinion of course.
go bear!
he also told me that the new kits are replacing the rear horizontal stabilizer ribs from balsa, to lite ply. i can't confirm this - but that seems a step in the right direction and tells me that thunder tiger is aware of the stabilizer being a potential failure point.
oh yeah, as for the dragon car racer guy with the chips on his shoulders... if you guys want to report his hostility to the RCU powers that be, they'll take care of him. crossfire retalliation only adds fuel to the fire and takes you down to his level of maturity. this thread could use a moderator right about now. just my opinion of course.
go bear!
#723
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From: Fayetteville, GA
This is from post #610 - its what I did to get the retracts up in the wings almost entirely. Just be a bit careful with the chisel thing. When I gave it a firm knock the whole retract mount came loose. Imagine that!!
ORIGINAL: Rbeav533
Frag,
Rather than designing a new set of wheel wells, I'd suggest removing the 1/8" lite-ply shims under the retracts. I'm currently building the RB myself and I've removed these shims to get my Spring Air retracts to nest deeper into the wing. All that's holding these shims in place is a very light amount of CA glue. I used a 1/4" screwdriver as a chisel, a sharp blow with a small hammer and the shims came right out.
I've already modified the front section of the inner frame work by adding a removable lite-ply floor for the fuel tank. With the fuel tank floor in place there's plenty of room for the short Spring Air airtank. I'll be mounting the retract servo in the unused opening in the stock servo mount and installing a small mount for the air valve directly in front of it. Once my trim flights are completed, I'll be installing full gear doors.
Rich
Frag,
Rather than designing a new set of wheel wells, I'd suggest removing the 1/8" lite-ply shims under the retracts. I'm currently building the RB myself and I've removed these shims to get my Spring Air retracts to nest deeper into the wing. All that's holding these shims in place is a very light amount of CA glue. I used a 1/4" screwdriver as a chisel, a sharp blow with a small hammer and the shims came right out.
I've already modified the front section of the inner frame work by adding a removable lite-ply floor for the fuel tank. With the fuel tank floor in place there's plenty of room for the short Spring Air airtank. I'll be mounting the retract servo in the unused opening in the stock servo mount and installing a small mount for the air valve directly in front of it. Once my trim flights are completed, I'll be installing full gear doors.
Rich
#724

Yeah, I saw that plate on there and it looks like it's just there to get the recommended retract units (plastic mechanicals) flush with the bottom wing skin. They'll come out real easily but I wouldn't dare cut into the main mounts.
I still wonder, though, which retracts would have enough "swing" to get the wheel up next to the top inside skin like it's supposed to be. Bob Violet retracts have an over-the-center knee joint and have plenty of travel, plus they have adjuster cams available to fine tune the strut angle in the down position. They're very wide, though, and the air cylinder sits on the side of the retract unit (rather than the back). It would take some major modification of the existing mount to get them to fit and I really don't want to do that.
Robart's 530RS (90 degrees) units are only an inch tall but still too wide to fit between the rails. I guess a little trimming would be OK. I suppose that I could make an angled shim in case the wheel won't go into the well all the way.
I was hoping that someone would post that they've successfully done this already.
.Looks like the room is there, though, and I just have to figure it out for myself. When I do I'll post the details!
Thanks, guys-
I still wonder, though, which retracts would have enough "swing" to get the wheel up next to the top inside skin like it's supposed to be. Bob Violet retracts have an over-the-center knee joint and have plenty of travel, plus they have adjuster cams available to fine tune the strut angle in the down position. They're very wide, though, and the air cylinder sits on the side of the retract unit (rather than the back). It would take some major modification of the existing mount to get them to fit and I really don't want to do that.
Robart's 530RS (90 degrees) units are only an inch tall but still too wide to fit between the rails. I guess a little trimming would be OK. I suppose that I could make an angled shim in case the wheel won't go into the well all the way.
I was hoping that someone would post that they've successfully done this already.
.Looks like the room is there, though, and I just have to figure it out for myself. When I do I'll post the details!Thanks, guys-
#725

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ok gents
personal attacks will not be tolerated here on RCU. The thread is a good one and I feel there is some undue tension here. If you have nothing constructive to say please dont post, that goes for all of you. If this thread slides of the deep end I will close it and further action might be taken by senior staff.
Please continue but keep it on topic and you dont have to beat a dead horse, if it crashed it crashed. Indicate how and or why and move on.
matt
personal attacks will not be tolerated here on RCU. The thread is a good one and I feel there is some undue tension here. If you have nothing constructive to say please dont post, that goes for all of you. If this thread slides of the deep end I will close it and further action might be taken by senior staff.
Please continue but keep it on topic and you dont have to beat a dead horse, if it crashed it crashed. Indicate how and or why and move on.
matt


