no missing posts.
the management of this site changed it from 30 posts per page to 35 posts per page.

(i wish world models had built this ARF)

All you TT RB pilots....look what's coming down the pike from KMP: http://www.kmp.ca/rcpics/cmassspecs.htm

Don

What is the best alignment for the RB's wheels? A couple degrees of toe-in? How, beyond eyeballing it, do I get the alignment pretty close to what we want?

New Control Surface Setup
Hey fellow builders....
I just completely re-did the control linkage setup for the stab & elevator. I installed Robart hinges on the stab/elevator using Gorilla Glue. I used a Du-Bro control horn on the stab & Robart horns on the Elevator. I did squirt in some Gorilla Glue after I drilled the control surfaces for the horns. After it set up, the mounts were very solid. I used Sullivan Tubes & Rods (Gold Version) and exited the Fuse under the stab. After getting the length exactly right, All the control surfaces were solid as a rock. This may be overkill, but I feel much better about the setup, vs the method included with the kit. The model still looks great, as all but the control horn on the Elevator is out of sight.

I have an OS 160 in my Bear also. Do any of you have any flight time with the 160, in order to share your control throw settings. The suggested throws for the elevator are only 1/4!QUOT! & 3/8!QUOT!! Is this enough?

Working on getting retracts working...my canister is leaking! Off to the Hobby Shop I go!
Thanks my friends...
Dudley

RC FLYING HEAD,

I have and OS 160 and with the fuel tank provided run for 8 minutes and still have almost half tank left when I come down. I am using Morgan 10% with a 16x8 prop.

Our club has a monthly meeting & we do a raffle...usually an ARF,engines & misc.stuff.

It was my lucky day,as I won the ARF,which happened to be the Rare Bear!

Being blond,I went ahead & bought stuff for it & put it together,I did talk to 2 of the local
hobby shop guys first to get some inside info on it. I can see now that I should have started looking
thru RCU before I got started.

Anyway,here is how I set it up,any helpful comments would be appreciated!
Used a Super Tigre g90 w/bisson muffler,GP 60 size mechanical retracts,HiTec high torgue digital servos for the elev/rud/ail & a standard servo on the throttle. I did epoxy in 2 -12" strips of 2" glasscloth into the fin for extra support,and epoxied all around the retract bay...which hopefully will give it enough strenght.

Kurt

Kurt,

There has been many horz stab failures on the RB. If you read the last 6 or so pages in this thread you will see many posts from me and others on the stab problems.

A little further back I posted the mods I did for the retracts, which I know work because I have had several hard landings and they have held.

I would venture to say that if you fly this bird without opening up the stab there is a good chance it will fail, maybe not as high a chance with a 90 size engine. Read back a few pages and look at the pics and decide for yourself.

I would also venture that just epoxying the existing retract mounts may not be enough, but that is not the end of the world.

I would also suggest adding the wing bolts I describe and show with pics a few pages back.

Lastly, I would suspect that you will have to add a good deal of nose wieght to balance with a 90 up front.

Keep us posted on your flights please. Good luck

Thanks for the info JW...

I just finished putting together & getting in a few flights on the new TWINSTAR ARF that Hobbico came out with.
Twins sound so cool...I love it!

Now that I over the thrill of doing a twin,I think I'll get back to focusing on the RB.
I've had the RB ready to fly for a few weeks now,too bad that its just a bit too big for
my truck,too much of a hassel to disassemble it to fit,so I'll have to borrow a work truck to transport it...sucks!

Anyway,I'll have to do some research thru this site to see what chgs I need to make!

Kurt

Hey Frag...
How do you think the gorilla glue would work as a reinforcment around the retract cavities?

I have never worked with GG before,so I think I'll go get some tommorrow...I like your suggestion
for its use on the stab problem. Sounds like its a good method of adding strenght to a hard to get to
area.

Kurt

I think you need to put wood blocking to support the retract mounts. The gorilla glue by itself probably wouldn't give the wood mount the strength it needs to resist rolling out of the wing on landing (or even taxiing!). And for the record, I did get some GG, but its RC FLYING HEAD that has actually used it in the stabs. I am still contemplating injecting the GG into the one stab I didn't cut open to glue. I'll probably end up trying it this way.
You could use the GG along with wood blocking for the retract mounts, I'm just not sure if its any better or worse than using epoxy.

Has anybody had a issue with the tail wheel bracing? It seems like you are putting alot of stress on the fiberglass fuse with the 4 screws and using epoxy on the bracket sides and where it fits into the former? (no support for the rear of the bracket except for the fuselage. Thanks, Skip.

Skip, I added plywood and mounted a sullivan tail wheel using bolts and blind nuts.

Also, JWortner, Vampire, I'm completely finished with my Bear. It looks AWESOME! OS-160, Sierra Air Retracts, Smoke system.
JWortner, your plane flew nice in the video. What control throws did you use for the elevator and ailerons? And, what point did you measure the CG...the reccomended 5.25" from wing front? Did your plane want to naturally climb?
I haven't broken the engine in yet, but will be ready to take her out in a couple weeks.
Thanks....
Dudley

Getting ready to build a Hangar 9 Corsair....

Dudley,

Yes, the initial video has the CG right about at the line in the fuselodge where the manual recommends. Yes, if I trimmed for level fight at 1/2 throttle, it would climb significantly on full throttle. I decided to trim for full throttle since that is how I run her a lot. Had a slight tendency to decend 1/2 but not enough to bother me. I did end up mixing in a little up elevator when my gear goes down for landing.

After the 3rd flight when the stab began to fail I did all my tail mods, including moving the servo to the back. This moved my CG back about 1/2 inch. The plane still landed good. Spin recovery was still right on. It is really on the edge though I can tell you that.

So, what did you do about your second stab? Did you open it or use the gorilla glue?

Hi everyone I was wondering if there is anyone here interested in building my rare bear for me?I really love planes but because of my job and kids I dont have the time to build this plane. I need someone to help. If anyone is interested let me know Thanks [email protected]

Send the ARF with engine and retracts. Also include a two thousand dollar money order. It will take at least 90 days. This includes beefing up the stab and retract mounts and custom wing bolt plates.

Frag, Wow only $2000! I should have hired you to build mine! Would have saved me five months! )

ProStockBob, you should check with your local Hobby shop. Sometimes they know of a local retired RC veteren that does some building on the side for a few hundred dollars. I would request that read this thread completely (print it) prior to quoting or building. Our local shop has about 3 gentlemen, but we're in Nashville, TN.
Dudley

I'm glad no one took that seriously

Here's a few Pics of the beaut!

Jeff
In my case Ace still insists there is nothing wrong with the design and even suggested that they recommended beefing up the stab. If telling you to make sure that glue for the rods gets on all the ribs well..... They may do something about the quality of the kits later on but certainly don't stand behind their product guarantee re: defects. Another thing I have noticed on ARF's using laser cut parts. The burnt wood is not removed before gluing. This will weaken a joint.
Dan

RC Flying Head

So sweet man - how did you attach your wheel bay covers to the struts? And I noticed you painted your cockpit black - I like that touch.

Lots of good info here on this plane, I am in the process of building one also, I am going to do the gorilla glue in the stab, also made the canopy easy to remove using bvm hatch setup, here is some pictures of the progress, going to put the switch and air under canopy, keep it clean. looking forward to flying fast and low.

Dan,

I've noticed a number of issues inside my right stab that might be the primary cuase of the failures. I've only modified one stab to date, and when I open the second stab I'll take pics and post them.

Rich

I have found a problem with the tail linkage that may cause flutter, the rods that go to the inside for the elevator pushrod flex or move away from the elevator onder load so i mad a bearing for the rod where it enters the fuslage to keep it solid and strait, to do this i put oil on the rod and then used some aeropoxy mixed it up and put it around the rod and spead on the fiberglass, when it dried hard i then broke loose the rod, now have a perfect bearing around the rod and have eliminated the problem, i hope this helps, or you understand what i am saying. here are some pics.

Flying Head
She looks beautiful on the table! A very nice job as all the planes I've seen pictures of in here.
I'm curious as to how the GG in the stab thing works as well as what did it do for your CG balance. This is already a tail heavy plane.

Thanks

welp, had the maiden flight today, os 160 ran great, still in the breakin phase, hav robart gear and struts, the plane tookoff well, rates were a little fast at the sugested setting so i reduced and added a little expo to the mix, took it easy but went very well, is pretty fast with the 16x8 3 blade prop, i put the servo in the tail for the elevator and gap sealed the elevator and the rudder, landing was awsome, it actually lands pretty slow, and is very smooth on landings, it came in nicely with no problems, even with a almost full tank, engine loaded up and quit, came in for a nice smooth landing, looking forward to fling it again, i will post pics as soon as my bud emails them to me.