I am starting a new thread to relay my findings on my new Vector Flight Extra 300S, 66" model.
So far so good. I have discussed a slight mismatch of the root ribs at the TE with customer service
and have been reassured all is fine with a slight gap at the TE.
Have filled with microballons and epoxy during wing halve joining.
Covering is excellent and crisp. Wheel pants are a PITA and have decided to leave them off.
Never know when I will put it down in grass anyhow. I have never found wheel pants that fit
right in any kit by anybody so no surprises.
Wing seems very strong and light. Elevator halves and rudder were matched very well.
I have partially installed a Thunder Tiger .91 four-stroke for power and will run a MAS 14x6 prop.
Vector Flight customer service has been super, answered my questions about firewall to prop washer
distance and others promply and clearly.
Instruction manual could use a little more detail but nothing major left out.
Servo wells fit my JR servos (537BB's) but needed slight trimming for Hitec 425's. Hardware is standard
U.S. manufactured stuff, DuBro clevises and wheels (tail + mains, Dave Brown engine mount etc so cheers for that.
Cowl is really sweet, will hate to chop a hole in it for the TT head but, that's the way it is.
Every joint that I could see was tight and well glued.
I will be using Robart hinge points in place of the supplied CA hinges.
a) I am a little leery of CA hinges for a plane that is so pretty and b) I want to try using them
Have read other threads about elevator sensitivity so I plan on really mild throws for sure
I will be posting pictures soon.
Anyone know how to tint a clear canopy?

Nice to hear! Ive three of Vectorflight airplanes, and they are superb in terms of construction and flying. No shoddy construction here!! Currently have a 91 FX in my 66 inch Extra, but that will soon be changed to a 1.20 Surpass. The only change was instead of screwing in the belly pan as called for in the instructions, I just glued it to the wing and opened two holes in the belly pan to access the wing screws. Makes installing and removing the wing much easier. Also I installed tailplane struts just for good measure although it felt pretty strong without them, basically for piece of mind when doing some wild flying, which this plane really tempts you to do. Enjoy!

Do as Calflyer says and just glue the belly pan to the wing and cut a couple of holes in it to install the screws. It makes taking the wing off very easy. You can tint the canopy using spray paint made for painting RC car bodies. I picked up a can of black window tint and did several of my canopies. I have a TT91 in mine also and it is a good match. I started off with a Magnum 91 4 stroke and it flew the plane great also. I was looking for a little more vertical so I put the TT on it. I had to move the battery about half way back to the tail to get it to balance. I just cut the sheeting and made a hatch out of it. There is a square piece of balsa running down the bottom of the fuse don't cut through it just cut the balsa sheeting off of it. I made a platform out of 1/8 inch balsa and attached the battery to it. I then mounted the platform on to the square stock. I glued some small lite ply tabs into the fuse at the corners of the hatch opening and screwed the hatch back on using servo screws. I used a scrap piece of white covering to hide the seams on the hatch. The TT engine is stronger running and gives me the extra vertical that I was looking for. I also changed to a sullivan tail wheel bracket and it also works great. This is a really nice flying plane and I love it. I would not hesitate to buy another one from them.

Rick

What did you use for the tailplane struts? Wires or rod? I Have seen both and although
the wire are easier, small boat type turnbuckles would look cool as well.
Might also help with the cg due to the TT91's weight.
I plan on permanantly mounting the belly pan too, seems like a much
simpler way to go. Did you use the CA hinges or use an other means of hinging
the control surfaces? This plane is so cool and will be stressed with my numb thumbs
that I want the security of multiple redundant hinges.
Also the DuBro control arms seem strong enough, any failures noted?
I will be silver soldering the split elevator wires just for belt and braces
security

Used 2-56 rods for struts, along with some Dubro nylon atachment points and clevises. The whole setup is probably about half an ounce for the 4 rods, two on top and two on bottom of the stab. Starting from about half way out on the stab, one pair goes to the top of the fin and the other screwed to the bottom of the fuselage, on the ply plate. Wires can be used because these are only in tension, but couldnt figure out a good anchoring and tensioning arrangement for the wires.

Maybe you guys don't want to know, but Vectorflight just reduced their prices on all of their planes!!! I just ordered the 66" Extra for $150. Seems like a great deal if any of the discussions on this forum mean anything! Just need a powerplant - Saito 100 comes to mind. Anyone have other recommendations? (don't want to get into a 120 size)

Ross

Ross

A saito 100 would be perfect for this plane. I have the 66 inch extra and it is a great plane. I have a TT 91 on it and it has plenty of power. The saito is a little bit lighter so you won't have any problems balancing it.

Rick

Installed Robart hinge points in the tail feathers last night. Really like them.
Am planing on doing the wire struts tonight if no honey do stuff comes up.
Wing joint went fine with just a small gap at TE, filled with epoxy.
Good plan about the belly pan. Screwing it to the wing and drilling for the
wing bolts is the way to go. Don't want to fool around with it at the field.
p.s. I ordered mine at $169 so I guess you win some you lose some.

Even at 169.00 the plane is a great deal. It is built and flies as good as any other kit on the market. Vectorflight has the best customer service in the business. You will really like this plane. Mine flies like it is on rails and lands very easy. This has fast become my favorite plane to fly. I am practicing my IMAC aerobatics so that I can compete in the future and the Extra 300 is the plane that I am using to practice with. I am going to be placing an order for the Edge 540 as soon as I can come up with the funds. I have 3 other projects going on right now.

Rick

Tonights work was installing the tail feathers and aielerons.
Both went well. I used the CA hinges for the aielerons as my LHS
was out of hinge pins. No big deal, the CA hinges (4 per side) are
free and well seated. The stab and fin install was a no brainer with the generous
intersect and great fit.
I painted the inside of the canopy with Lexan Car body paint (charcoal) and it looks great.
I couldn't bring myself to stick a doll inside without doing a complete cockpit detail.
I found some "dowel locators", little pieces of machined metal your supposed to
stick in a drilled hole that have a point on the end. The point is brought to bear on the mating surface
as a drill locator for the cooresponding hole. I used them to locate the wing holdown bolt holes
and it worked great.
The plane has been really fun to build as everything fit, the hardware is US standard and well suited for the task
and the covering job is super. I have heard others use a Sullivan tailwheel briacket, a bigger one but I
will install the supplied and see how it goes.
Only gripe was with the wheel pants, but plan on using Molded fiberglass next time I order something
from tower as shipping is nearly the price of the pants.

I also didn't use the wheel pants. I threw them in the junk box and used a pair of sig wheel pants for a 4*60. they are made of thick hard plastic and are very tough. they are about the same size as the Vectorflight ones but are shaped a little different. The hard part is finding some red paint to match. I used lustercoat but it is a little darker. You can't tell when the plane is flying. I also used a pair of sullivan super lite wheels that are a little bigger. I also used a sullivan tail wheel bracket. I love them and use them on all of my planes.

Rick

Glad to see someone started a new thread on this plane, that other one was was really getting long! Started my VF Extra 66 last night. Has anyone else had the epoxy make dark spots on the bottom of the wing where the braces go in? It's like the epoxy bled through the covering a little. It's not a real big deal but I am a little disappointed. I use a rather runny epoxy that takes about 4 hours to set up. Seems plenty strong after overnite. At least it's not on the top of the wing. Maybe a question for VF?
Also I didn't receive any CA hinges in my kit, did yours come with them?
Anyone doing any reinforcing to the plane anywhere (Firewall, LG block?)
I'm putting on a Saito 100.
Will glue the belly pan and cut hole for the screws, also Balsa block around the tail surfaces.
This looks like a great plane, cna't wait to get it in the air.
Todd

I beefed up the back of the firewall with triangle stock. I also used epoxy on the back of the firewall and in the fuel tank area. I also epoxied the landing gear mount. This is a pain in the ***** to do but I feel it is worth the effort. This is a nice building plane and is really built well from vectorflight. When I finally flew this plane I was hooked it is very nice. I had a Magnum 91 4 stroke on it and it flew great. I had a TT 91 4 stroke that I was not using so I removed the mag and installed the TT because it is a stronger engine. I had to move the battery back about half way to the tail to balance the plane. I have not flown it yet as I am waiting for my new radio to come in and the weather sucks right now. If it does not fly as good I will put the Magnum back in it. I am going to order one of the 66 inch edges as soon as I can save the funds. I have 3 other projects going on right now so no time anyway. You will love your VF plane.

Rick

Please comment on some observations
a) the fuel tank as supplied is a S.O.B. to fit as there is no provision for mount or footprint.
If is supplied, they should have put a relief in the front former or something to accept the tank.
With it being pretty closed up in there, it is very hard to ascertain if it is "where it should be"
The tailcone seems like an afterthought. If they have an ABS plastic cone, at least put
cut lines in the die, makes life a whole lot simpler.
I glued the belly pan in place a drilled holes with a "step drill" to about 3/4" so I can see
what I am doing and get the wing bolts in proper, although the blind nut holder had them at an angle.
Still getting the TT.91 set right, wants to have the low end needle damn near screwed in all the way
to run right. 14x6 MAS k series blows some air at WOT though.
Mine came in at just under 8 lbs dry. Seems light but maybe my scale is off.
The sticky decals are a PITA. Don't like them at all.

I had these blue CA hinges supplied, looked like cut from a big sheet of something as
they were not uniform.
I used Robart hinge points for the elevator and rudder, LHS ran out of hinge points
so I used the CA type hinges for the aeileirons, four per side.
They seemed to work OK
I cut the slots about 1/4 below the top and sealed afterwards with clear Monokote
on the bottom of each surface for better response. I think it is more linear with the hinge lines sealed

Bumstead

After you glue on the tailcone use some of the leftover red decal sheet and cover the tailcone you cannot tell that it is plastic that way. I installed my tank by gluing two pieces of balsa across the inside of the fuel bay. I just guessed where to put them and they came out right. I set the tank on the balsa pieces and pushed it all the way up aginst the firewall. I then wedged another piece of balsa across the back of the tank to keep it in place. With the TT installed in your plane where did you have to put your battery to balance your plane on the CG. I have experienced the same thing as you with my low speed needle. It has to be leaned way down to get the engine to idle good. The more fuel you run through it the better it gets. I have not flown mine with the TT on it yet but had this engine on another plane. I still need to tune it somemore only about 3/4 of a gallon through it so far. Try some wheel pants from Sig. the ones that fit on a 4*60 are perfect.

Rick

Thanks for the info. I made a "Bottom" for the tank out of EPS foam.
Top and bottom with a balsa brace in the back.
At 4 1/4"" back CG, mine balanced level with a 5-cell Ni-Cad pack right behind the
tank. I used a GP balance machine. What I did was mount everything except the
battery and moved it across the fuse bottom until wings level.
I had a prop and spinner attached so I am surprised you had to mount the battery
back so much in the fuselage.
Hmmm. where did you other guys mount your battery pack?
The TT .91 is kinda heavy but the plane sits level at 4 1/4" back from the TE.

Hi Bumstead, the decals are so much easier to put on if you spray the cowl first with some blue glass cleaner, non oily of course! This will make it easy to peel them off and place them correctly if they dont sit right, and also be able to squeeze the air bubbles out while wet. When they are positioned right, dry the decals with a towel and press firmly. It takes a while this way but much better results.

Thanks for the great tip. I screwed them up already and will go the "Minimalist"
route. I thought with the glue that the Windex trick wouldn't work.
O well, live and build, crash and build, crash and build.
Took a break and flew my WM T-34 with a Magnum 52FS just to get some stick time
before I tackle the Extra, windy here in Kentucky these days.

You got to go with the complete set of decals, it just looks much nicer. Call them up, they will likely send you some spare decals.

When I got my plane from vectorflight I unpacked it and set everything on the work bench. Well you know what happens when you do that. Something fell off of the top shelf and landed on the cowl. It put a crease in it and man was I pissed. I also screwed up the belly pan when I was trying to fit it to the bottom of the wing. I sent vectorflight an e-mail telling them what happened and about 3 days later I got a new cowl with decals and a new belly pan in the mail. I didn't ask them for the parts they just sent them to me. I will definatly place another order with them.

Rick

I just ordered the 66inch Extra. I have the Sukhoi and Edge, and they are excellent ARF's... I mounted my Saito .91's inverted on both... I'm going to mount a TT .91 inverted on the extra... Really nice looking models, and great flying machines... I like the extra wing loading they give you... you can slow these babies down without much worry of a tip stall (just don't push it).... The build is a little different, but I like to do some mods on all of my ARF's, so it was fun to build.... I don't like the little tail cone thing, but if you take your time, it will look pretty good... I'm not using flying wires on the tail, but I have gave it some thought...

Just got an e-mail from Vector Flight concerning my questions and comments.
They have offered a new set of decals due to my dumb thumbs.
These guys are the best. Quality planes at a super price.
They are all on sale for $149.95 U.S.
Considering you can get a 66" Extra or Edge ARF with great quality and flying characteristics
versus some kit prices approching that and it is real value for the money.
The build of the fuselage was super, wings are clean and strong, ALL the hardware is
U.S. standard and name brand.
Aside from some very very minor gripes (gripes might even be too strong a word)
The plane I received from Vector Flight is BY FAR the best value/quality plane
I have ever purchased. They have a very loyal customer here

Bumstead,

Use the windex tip in the above post on the decals.... it's real easy.... I clean the surface (cowl or covering) with the windex first... let it dry.... next I spray the surface, don't soak it, just get it spotty wet... next I actually spray the back of the decal... just get it spotty wet.... place the decal close to the correct location.... it will slide easy... and it will wrap around the curved surface... once you are satisified, use a paper towel... work from the center of the decal out.... this squeege the liquid out, and dry the decal at the same time........ just take your time, and it will look great... It might be a good idea to start with the smaller decals, this will give you practice for the tougher decals that go on the cowl.

Good Luck.

Thanks, that's the technique I will use.
I have never had much luck with "sticky" type decals. I didn'y know that
they would take with Windex.
The cowl is so nice I have to get it right