NOVAflier

My Feedback: (21)

I installed a Graphtech Tail Wheel on my new cap. I ran the springs to the control horns on either side of the rudder. My concern is that the wheel hardly turns when I move the rudder. Should I shorten the spring until it starts to move more, or will I notice a difference when it is on the ground taxiing versus me fooling with it on the bench?

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

It should be fine on the ground. Most of them I have done the tail wheel turns about 25% of what the rudder does. Once the plane starts to turn it catches up.

David

NOVAflier

My Feedback: (21)

I don't even think I am getting that. I am thinking that I need to shorten the spring, but how much is too much?

deputydog

The spring should have quite a bit of tension equally on both sides. The question is where exactly is the springs mounted on the tailwheel? Mount seperate control horns as low as possible on the rudder. I've never favored the spring method. I usually direct connect with a control rod from the rudder servo rod. If you have pull-pull then run a small tube(like an antenna tube) and do pull-pull on the tailwheel also with both lines coming out of the same tube from the bottom of the fus.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

You should preload the springs. I'd say 30-50%. You may need to add a separate control horn for the springs. Usually they have a triangular one that screws to the bottom of the rudder. That way you can pt it where you want to get plenty of tension on the springs. It doesn't take much to turn it when you're moving. I'd never go direct connect to a servo on a bigger plane. You will trash the servo in no time.

rcfury

My Feedback: (5)

Hope not to sound to uneducated but, if you want to direct connect the tailwheel with the rudder. Will a simple servo saver help? Like the ones you see on RC cars?

NOVAflier

My Feedback: (21)

Pre-load the springs, I don't follow you (huh, and I'm an Engineer)...

Stick Jammer

Just shorten the springs a little and you'll be fine. I agree with JoeAirPort, solid linkage to the tailwheel isn't a good idea for GS unless you want to buy a new rudder servo(s) every other flight. The springs are simple and will work just fine.

Stick Jammer

You're kidding, right? Can you picture what will happen with a flight load on the rudder?

deputydog

The servo saver method is great. If using a control rod then slide a wheel collar, 1/2" fuel tubing, ail strip horn, another 1/2" fuel tubing and another wheel collar. GP does this on their larger birds with success. I've been doing it for years. Even if you just use a ail strip horn and 1 collar in the center, its ok for most birds up to 35%.
If you are stripping hi torque metal gear rudder servos with this hookup then you are doing something wrong. Push-pull setup no way! Multi servo pull-pull....I dont think so! I've never stripped a rudder servo. Theres usually not enough pressure on the tailwheel. Then again on my big birds I shut the motor off just before touchdown and let it roll out and stop. On take off you are straight down the runway until you pull up and the rudder is already off the deck.

JoeAirPort

My Feedback: (41)

It just means to stretch the springs out so they have some tension on both of them. This tension will give you the stiffness you need to steer. With more pre-load, you get more stiffness in the tail wheel. Not too much though, or the servo takes a beating.