GSP/Chief Katana?
#1
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From: Lewiston, ID
The folks at Chief said this plane has had 3 production runs and many of the problems have been fixed. I've read the great thread on this aircraft, but its hard to wade through all those pages. I'd like to know how the latest version is. I know the shear web problem has been fixed, how about the covering? Can someone help me out? Is the latest version a good buy? Thanks for your time,
Dave
Dave
#2
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Dave, in my opinion, this plane is (was?) a good buy, I have one of the originals and I believe that even with the web problem, the short wing tube, and the cheap covering, at $200 it was still a good buy. Now, except for the covering, all other problems have been taken care of (unless you see the underside hatch as a problem, which I don't). Ironically, according to some people, the latest production runs with fixed webbing and larger wing tube are also heavier and not as good flyers as the originals. I believe that keeping this plane light is what makes it an exceptionally good flyer, but since my plane is from an early run, I can't really make a comparison. As for the covering, it may be too thin, but I don't really care. Once the plane is airborne, who can tell the difference? Hope this helps. [8D]
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From: Hensley,
AR
Just recieved one this week.
I haven't started putting it together, but have looked at it, took it out of the box and did an inspection.
It looks OK to me, $200 is a great deal, I think.
I will make some mods to the wings hold downs, I am not too crazy about the springs.
Covering is good to me.
I haven't started putting it together, but have looked at it, took it out of the box and did an inspection.
It looks OK to me, $200 is a great deal, I think.
I will make some mods to the wings hold downs, I am not too crazy about the springs.
Covering is good to me.
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From: Lewiston, ID
Great! I just ordered one from Chief, it should be here today. I wanted an inexpensive practice plane to save wear and tear on my Wild Hare extra. I think this plane will fit the bill. I'm going to use a G26 because I fly lots and gas is cheaper. Also, this engine has lots of power for its size, especially with an after market muffler. You can even save 6 oz just by taking the aluminum mounting plate off. So anyway, I'm looking forward to building. I saw a mod in the big thread for using wing nuts to hold the wings. Its looks like a very simple solution to the spring thing.
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From: Murfreesboro,
TN
AeroDave, have you flown it yet with the G-26? I am interested in buying that engine but nobody has flown with it. So can you give me a flight report with that engine?
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From: Lewiston, ID
I'm going to fly it today. The funny thing is, even with a G26 the CG is back a bit. Not enough to add lead, but is is suprising. yeah, I took one look at those springs and laughed. I put a 1/4 blind nut in place of the stock one and used nylon bolts. No springs. The nylon won't back out and will be plenty to keep the wings on. Remember, the tube and alignment pins take the real load. Its a pretty cool airplane. The fit of averything was great! I was very suprised at the quality. I was expecting to get a cheapy beater. With a touch of glue, here and there, however, its a really solid plane. As to the motor: The weight doesn't seem to be too bad and the G26 with a slimline muffler and APC 17-6 prop puts out 15 pounds of thrust. I think it should fly just fine! It will probably even hover. That little motor is a real winner! Lots of folks are wanting to practice 3D with gas but the wing loading thing with gas motors makes it prohibative with smaller gas. I think the G26 is the place to start to solve the problem. For example, I have the H9 Ultra Stick lite with this motor and it pulls out of a hover just great. But the design isn't good for the rest of the 3D moves. But it proves that it can be done. An aiplane with enough wing for 3D with this motor is doable, we just need a 3D design. Another story for another thread.....
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From: Lewiston, ID
I'm not sure what the weight is. i won't be on here for awhile after today so I probably won't post a flight report. The motor is going to be just fine, though. If you put the servos in the tail as I did, you'll need the weight for balance. If you want to fly gas the G26 is a good place to start. There are plenty of airplanes it works well with. I'm sure this will be another. A glow engine such as the OS 160 or Saito 180 will have a better power to weight ratio, but I think the G26 will be plenty. And then fuel is so much cheaper....
I think the key is wing area and the Katana is at the bottom end of what I consider workable for this motor in this weight plane.
I think the key is wing area and the Katana is at the bottom end of what I consider workable for this motor in this weight plane.
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From: Fayetteville,
AR
Poaks,
I have a YS 120 on mine and I run CP 30% Heli fuel in mine and it turns a 17X6 Zinger at 9,800, but the performance on the Katana is very lackluster. I have never weighed my plane, but the plane is just too heavy. The problem is it took 18 oz. of lead to get it to balance!!!!! Yes, 18 oz. I added nothing and and put the throttle servo on the firewall. It is a very tail heavy plane. My friend put a Saito 150 on his and he added the same exact amount of weight.
The plane flies fine, it just will not hover. It does a lot more than barely fly, but you can almost save a pound by putting the rudder servo up in the fuse and making it a pull pull. I am leaving it in the back and putting that engine on something else and putting a moki 180 on it
Norman Ross Jr.
I have a YS 120 on mine and I run CP 30% Heli fuel in mine and it turns a 17X6 Zinger at 9,800, but the performance on the Katana is very lackluster. I have never weighed my plane, but the plane is just too heavy. The problem is it took 18 oz. of lead to get it to balance!!!!! Yes, 18 oz. I added nothing and and put the throttle servo on the firewall. It is a very tail heavy plane. My friend put a Saito 150 on his and he added the same exact amount of weight.
The plane flies fine, it just will not hover. It does a lot more than barely fly, but you can almost save a pound by putting the rudder servo up in the fuse and making it a pull pull. I am leaving it in the back and putting that engine on something else and putting a moki 180 on it

Norman Ross Jr.
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From: West Melbourne,
FL
Anybody else have a g-26 on this plane? Looking to put another motor on mine and thinking of going with it. Some pictures of the set up would be cool if anybody has some.
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From: Fayetteville,
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I would think that would be a good combo. If the Zenoah will swing a prop in the 18" range and do it in the 7K+ range than it will be a winner. The additional weight on the nose is a big plus. I have been thinking of a Moki 180 for glow, but I would like to go gas and if I did it would be the new Roto from RC Showcase. Probally the 35. Sounds like a match made in heaven. The Zenoah G 23 and G 26's I've seen all ran good, but were not very strong. It all depends on how you want to fly. If 3D is a desire or at least some then a Zenoah is out of the running. It just is not strong enough. I have seen one with a Moki 180 and the power was unreal. Also was with a RC Showcase 180.
Take it easy,
Norman Ross Jr.
Take it easy,
Norman Ross Jr.
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From: Murfreesboro,
TN
If you want to make your plane lighter you should check the forum by TT2. It has many pages but all of the pages are worthwhile...if you haven't already.
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From: Huntsville,
AL
Futurase,
18oz!!!! holy carp!!! I do not know what the YS 120 weighs but wow it must be light. I have a OS 1.60 in mine with the fuel cell over the CG and moved to a Pull-Pull system bringing the rudder servo back into the fuse. I have 2oz of weight up front, the YS 120 weighs 1.2oz's less than the OS 1.60 so I don't know why all the lead needed. Now before I moved the rudder servo I had 11oz up front. amazing moving that little 2.2 oz forward into the CG removed all that lead.
As for the gas vs glow and power ratio thing all I can say is big gas makes big power, small gas makes small power.. All gas is usually more reliable than Glow, but in my opinion and probably mine alone.. No gasser that has an equivalent Glow size displacement outpowers the 2 stroke glow guzzler. Same principle they are just now overcoming in the motorcycle world. It will soon come to pass that the gassers outdo the glowies and by then I'll be a gasser
18oz!!!! holy carp!!! I do not know what the YS 120 weighs but wow it must be light. I have a OS 1.60 in mine with the fuel cell over the CG and moved to a Pull-Pull system bringing the rudder servo back into the fuse. I have 2oz of weight up front, the YS 120 weighs 1.2oz's less than the OS 1.60 so I don't know why all the lead needed. Now before I moved the rudder servo I had 11oz up front. amazing moving that little 2.2 oz forward into the CG removed all that lead.
As for the gas vs glow and power ratio thing all I can say is big gas makes big power, small gas makes small power.. All gas is usually more reliable than Glow, but in my opinion and probably mine alone.. No gasser that has an equivalent Glow size displacement outpowers the 2 stroke glow guzzler. Same principle they are just now overcoming in the motorcycle world. It will soon come to pass that the gassers outdo the glowies and by then I'll be a gasser
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From: Fayetteville,
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Wa11banger,
You are right in that small gassers do not make a lot of power , but do weight a lot. Most all are chainsaw or weadeater motors and are designed for that enviroment. Weight is not a big concern. Move up in size and you get power. My Desert Aircraft 50 weight just over 3 lbs and swings a 24x8 at 6600 RPM's. That is BIG power. It will put a 18 lb. plane up unlimited with ease. The new Roto's I alluded to are converted glow engines to gas. They are light and have good power.
You are right in the smaller category. From a 1.40 to a 2.0 glow rules. It rules, but from there own up gas is king. The new Roto's and etc. are starting to make inroads into the 1.40-2.0 categories though.
My Katana took 18 oz.s of lead with a 4 cell 1400mah pack under the tank. I do have all metal gear servos in the tail though and I used the Dubro rudder mount. It has beefy hardware. You could put it on a 30% easy in fact I have it for a WildHare Edge 540T and it is 28% and is 17 lbs. with my DA 50.
Norman Ross Jr.
You are right in that small gassers do not make a lot of power , but do weight a lot. Most all are chainsaw or weadeater motors and are designed for that enviroment. Weight is not a big concern. Move up in size and you get power. My Desert Aircraft 50 weight just over 3 lbs and swings a 24x8 at 6600 RPM's. That is BIG power. It will put a 18 lb. plane up unlimited with ease. The new Roto's I alluded to are converted glow engines to gas. They are light and have good power.
You are right in the smaller category. From a 1.40 to a 2.0 glow rules. It rules, but from there own up gas is king. The new Roto's and etc. are starting to make inroads into the 1.40-2.0 categories though.
My Katana took 18 oz.s of lead with a 4 cell 1400mah pack under the tank. I do have all metal gear servos in the tail though and I used the Dubro rudder mount. It has beefy hardware. You could put it on a 30% easy in fact I have it for a WildHare Edge 540T and it is 28% and is 17 lbs. with my DA 50.
Norman Ross Jr.
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From: Huntsville,
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Futurase,
I agree with you thats why I stated Big gas is Big Power. Hands down much better than glow. I would love to have a plane to hang a DA50 or much bigger in and that is coming soon. Which leads into the next thing
I run all Digital MG servos on the whole Katana ( planning way in advance for the gasser biggie) I have a pair of 5925's on the elevator, and 5945's on the rudder and each aileron, and a HS81 on the throttle. I run a 2100Mah pack right under the wing tube just over my fuel tank (upside down of course so I guess thats just under) I plan to put the Batt pack in the firewall box and try to take the 2oz I have in the nose off leaving me with a no weight added plane. I also used the Dubro 25Lb tail wheel and Dubro HD horn for the rudder as well as Robart 1" swivel horns everywhere else. if you move to a Pull-Pull system and move that servo up behind the wing tube you will save alot of nose weight. You can see pictures of my rigging and weight loss in post 948 of http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...s%2D140/tm.htm the battery is not in the shot of the access panel but it sits right over the wing tube on top of the zip ties for the fuel tank. As I found out 1 hour of work to install the Pull-Pull let me take off 9.75oz of weight in the nose. it was well worth it. I am running just over 24oz/sq of wing loading (thanks dntmn for the math) which is not great but by no means terrible.
Now on the sad part I am still running the springs since I have not done the hatch mod but I can get my wings on at the field in about 2.5 minutes with a longer pair of hemostats and a couple of allen wrenches. I explained how I did that because once you go to Pull-Pull there isn't anyway to reach in and attach springs anymore. you can find the simple instructions I use to do it just below the above link at post 951. I think if you can lower the wieght by even 9oz's you should enjoy this plane even more than you already do. I have an OS 1.60 and she is mighty. I cannot wait for the next few months to start a biggie gasser. I have been eyeballing the the 40% edge as my next hangar victim. But will have to wait until I learn to do what I need to with the Katana.
I agree with you thats why I stated Big gas is Big Power. Hands down much better than glow. I would love to have a plane to hang a DA50 or much bigger in and that is coming soon. Which leads into the next thing
I run all Digital MG servos on the whole Katana ( planning way in advance for the gasser biggie) I have a pair of 5925's on the elevator, and 5945's on the rudder and each aileron, and a HS81 on the throttle. I run a 2100Mah pack right under the wing tube just over my fuel tank (upside down of course so I guess thats just under) I plan to put the Batt pack in the firewall box and try to take the 2oz I have in the nose off leaving me with a no weight added plane. I also used the Dubro 25Lb tail wheel and Dubro HD horn for the rudder as well as Robart 1" swivel horns everywhere else. if you move to a Pull-Pull system and move that servo up behind the wing tube you will save alot of nose weight. You can see pictures of my rigging and weight loss in post 948 of http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...s%2D140/tm.htm the battery is not in the shot of the access panel but it sits right over the wing tube on top of the zip ties for the fuel tank. As I found out 1 hour of work to install the Pull-Pull let me take off 9.75oz of weight in the nose. it was well worth it. I am running just over 24oz/sq of wing loading (thanks dntmn for the math) which is not great but by no means terrible.Now on the sad part I am still running the springs since I have not done the hatch mod but I can get my wings on at the field in about 2.5 minutes with a longer pair of hemostats and a couple of allen wrenches. I explained how I did that because once you go to Pull-Pull there isn't anyway to reach in and attach springs anymore. you can find the simple instructions I use to do it just below the above link at post 951. I think if you can lower the wieght by even 9oz's you should enjoy this plane even more than you already do. I have an OS 1.60 and she is mighty. I cannot wait for the next few months to start a biggie gasser. I have been eyeballing the the 40% edge as my next hangar victim. But will have to wait until I learn to do what I need to with the Katana.
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From: N. Canton,
OH
Thanks for the info Norman. I just weighed the plane completed along w/ unmounted YS120. Weighs in at 11.6 lbs. As I have not balanced it yet, this does not take into consideration any additional lead that may be required. I also have a Saito 180 that is available to mount. Perhaps this will be the better choice. The only reason I considered the YS was that I had it in a comperable size 12lb. Edge and it flew it well. Thanks for your advice on the rudder servo.
Patrick
Patrick




