H9 Twist 40 engine/thrust line setups
#1
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From: Houston,
TX
Please share your engine choice and thrust line setup for your Twist 40. I'm about to mount my engine and would like to get a feel for whats working for others.
Thanks,
Duke
Thanks,
Duke
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From: Houston,
TX
There a lot of engines listed in the other thread, but I was looking for more specific info about mounting. So I started this thread so as to not get swallowed up in the other.
Duke
Duke
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From: Halifax,
NS, CANADA
I used A YS .63 and mounted it straight on the mount supplied, a touch more right thrust would be OK, but there ain't a lot of room to manuver. I got 75 flights on it and it seems OK.
#5
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I'm running an OS .46 AX on mine positioned at the recommended distance from the firewall and straight on. With the battery in the fuel tank compartment it balanced at 4 1/2". Flies great, you'll really like it.
WCB
WCB
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From: Houston,
TX
Thanks guys,
I was planning on using a Super Tigre 51 but wasn't too happy with trying to get much right thrust on it with those beam mounts. Sounds like at least initially straight is the place to start. Can't wait for this weekend. I ended up junking a lot of the supplied hardware in favor of some 2-56 dubro stuff I had.
Thanks,
Duke
I was planning on using a Super Tigre 51 but wasn't too happy with trying to get much right thrust on it with those beam mounts. Sounds like at least initially straight is the place to start. Can't wait for this weekend. I ended up junking a lot of the supplied hardware in favor of some 2-56 dubro stuff I had.
Thanks,
Duke
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From: Fort Wayne,
IN
I mounted a Saito .72 on my Twist and used the engine mount provided, no problems. I put a slight amount of right thrust into my model by measuring the distance between the prop tip and the wing leading edge. The right tip is 2mm closer to the leading edge than the left tip. Actually I measure to the same blade tip, just rotate the prop. Models like these can usually handle, if not actually need, a small amount of right thrust; perhaps two degrees if measured with an incidence meter. I don't think that any single-engine airplane needs left thrust; assuming the plane was constructed properly. 2mm is not much, but it ensures no left thrust. Plan was to add washers behind the left engine mount if the model needed more right thrust. I have since flown the model many times and I don't perceive that any thrust change is necessary. I recall reading in another thread that some modelers were having trouble connecting the throttle control rod to the Saito .72; someone even recommended cutting the cowl cheeks off! Not necessary, just use a shortened ball link and brass connector. I cut about 1\4 inch off a small brass ball link connector, soldered the connector to a piece of music wire, bent the wire back 180 degrees, cut about 1\8 inch off the ball link, bent the wire and connector to get the proper angle, and it all works fine. Lots of words, easily seen in my mind because I made it, but probably not yours. I will end this post and attempt to post a picture; havn't done that before. However; before I leave, the Saito .72 turns an APC 14 x 4W at 10,100 on Wildcat 10%. Performance on the Twist is awesome. BTW, purpose for shortening the ball link\connector was to keep the connector from hitting the engine.
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From: \'da Boonies ,
TN
I have an OS 50SX on mine mounted straight ahead with an APC 12.25-3.75 prop and the plane is balanced at 5" from the LE. I think it needs a little right thrust. It wants to go off to the left when you gag it. I'll try shimming the LH mounting beam by this weekend.
#9
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I fly a friends Twist all the time with an OS 50fx mounted per the instructions. A quick full throttle stick will cause a tiny bit of pull to the right, but if you know how to use your left thumb on the rudder it's no big deal.
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From: Grand Forks, ND
I have the Twist and was considering either e Evo 46 or a Saito .72. I have to say that I'm glad I went for more power. While the Saito may not be your first choice, get something
that will be able to pull out of your 3-D moves with more than enought response. As for engine mounting I have no problem flying straight and true and mounted my engine
straight dead on.
Remember that what ever you choose you'll have to get the linkage to the carb.
Good luck and let us know your choice
Lefty
that will be able to pull out of your 3-D moves with more than enought response. As for engine mounting I have no problem flying straight and true and mounted my engine
straight dead on.
Remember that what ever you choose you'll have to get the linkage to the carb.
Good luck and let us know your choice
Lefty
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From: Houston,
TX
Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to try the ST 51 and see what I get out of that. If a 46 will do ok, then the 51 should be plenty. I've heard good things from others about the ST51 and I can tell you mine is a hell of a little engine and its pretty light too.
On the mount, I ended up cheating a little as I took two small 3/16" aluminum strips and drilled holes in the ends and through then through the beam mounts about 1/4 from the front and then 2" back. I'm just going to clamp the ST51 in there initially using 4-40 bolts with lock nuts and a thin strip of rubber from a old bike inner tube as the friction component (I've used this tube rubber on lots of non-RC stuff and its good for keeping things from sliding). I'll start straight and true, but once I get a line decided, I'll pick up a new set of beams and mount permanent. I figure this weakens the beam a bit, but better a broken beam that firewall knocked off (that's my story and I'm sticking to it). The ST51 is a nice engine, but no way it'll
Could have the maiden as early as tomorrow evening. Only got to put an hour into it last night, so still have to finish the linkages before time to fly.
Duke
On the mount, I ended up cheating a little as I took two small 3/16" aluminum strips and drilled holes in the ends and through then through the beam mounts about 1/4 from the front and then 2" back. I'm just going to clamp the ST51 in there initially using 4-40 bolts with lock nuts and a thin strip of rubber from a old bike inner tube as the friction component (I've used this tube rubber on lots of non-RC stuff and its good for keeping things from sliding). I'll start straight and true, but once I get a line decided, I'll pick up a new set of beams and mount permanent. I figure this weakens the beam a bit, but better a broken beam that firewall knocked off (that's my story and I'm sticking to it). The ST51 is a nice engine, but no way it'll
Could have the maiden as early as tomorrow evening. Only got to put an hour into it last night, so still have to finish the linkages before time to fly.
Duke
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From: Fort Wayne,
IN
Attached are two photos illustrating how I connected a Saito .72 to a Twist. As mentioned in an earlier post on this thread, the brass connector and ball link were shortened.
#13
I used a YS 63s with a APC 14x4 prop ...This is a Great combo ...I did add about 2 deg right thrust ...I hard mounted the engine last ,this aloud me to move the engine for or aft to get the balance just right ...with the CG @ 4 1/2" and the engine all the way to the front of the mount it didn't need any penalty weight ....JW



