It's a heat shrinkable, pliable paper. You can't really have printed panel lines, rivets, and weathering stains on film covering.

Mounting rails painted and retracts bolted on:



Flat spots were filed under the two factory collars on each strut since there weren't any.

Flaps hooked up:



I had to do some minor trimming on the interior of the flaps to get them to lie flush.

Rich , what size wheels are you useing? , the dont look like the kit wheels ?
Also any problem running the airline ?

I'm using Robart 3" diamond thread scale wheels. No problem running the air line. I had to grind a notch on the bottom of the rear gear box cross webbing for the air line to clear:



The air lines also need to move freely as the gear retracts and extends. I used an electric hot knife to cut away the factory installed plastic bellcrank so the air lines don't bind on it:



It's too bad I couldn't completely remove the bellcrank because I believe there is a nut at the top of the mounting plate holding the bellcrank mounting screw in place. Turning the mounting crew would only make it go round and round without loosening it. To get access to the nut, one would need to cut a hole on the top of the wing, and I didn't want to do that.

Thanks . that is great info to have .

Gear fairings glued in place:

Wing joined together with 45-minute epoxy:

To mount the engine, the supplied nylon motor mounts are clamped to the engine mounting flanges:

Then the side-to-side distance between two mounting holes is measured:

This distance is then transferred to the firewall and four marks are made:

Four holes are drilled and the motor mounts are bolted on and secured with blind nuts behind the firewall:

The engine mounts are then drilled and tapped for four 8-32 allen head bolts to hold the engine in place:

The YS 110 fits completely inside the cowl without cutting:

I'm not sure what to do with the incorrect air inlet "vanes" since they don't look anything like the ones on the real P-40:







This is something VQ might want to consider updating.

hehe, that air inlet looks like its smiling rather that a shark mouth.

Nice engine is that a custom muffler ? I plan on useing a magnum 91 4 stroke with a EDSON universal motor mount , its a outstanding mount that allows for easy forward and aft movement of the engine along the predrilled rails.

As far as the air intake , there is a couple of problems , even if you solve the one the bottom cowl is still to flat as opposed to the upward round found on the real one .
I thought about scroling out a soft upside down Y in hard wood, coating with expoxy and putting it in place . Its a lot of work and I dont know if it woudl work and hold under vibration . I cant wait to get more done but I have been working on my GWS A10 and trying to get some flying in .

Last idea, cut a small line in the top and two small lines in the side in the positions to hold an upside dwon Y . Clear out the existing form and cut you new form out of thick plastic , sliding them into the slots that are cut , slide the bottom one in first (it woudl look like a frown at this point , then slide the top piece in the top slot and the slot cut in the bottom U -confusing but I can draw in you need it

Sorry m but what do you think of the white undercoating as Paint chips , shoudl they have been silver ?

Yeah the paint chips should have been steel or whatever primer color they used back then.

The engine you see in the pictures doesn't have a muffler on it. You are probably referring to the air box at the rear of the engine.

Here is a picture showing VQ plastic 3-bladed spinner and MA 14x9 prop:



Unfortunately, I don't think the plastic spinner will be able to withstand the YS 110's extreme torque and power output and will probably disintegrate during the first flight. Plus, the spinner is slightly too short, but the 3-bladed prop looks good though.

have you considered a true turn for it? Im sure it will look pretty

Yes, I have looked at Tru-Turn. However, they didn't have a "standard" 3 1/4" diameter 3-bladed spinner. All they had were Ultimate, P-51, FAI, and AT-6 spinners. I can always go back to my Dave Brown 3 1/4" aluminum 2-bladed spinner if the plastic one decides to blow up.

Richard L., your photography is just outstanding. Super job!

Thanks. All of the pictures here are taken with the Nikon CoolPix 4500 digital camera, which does a pretty good job at taking close up shots under low light conditions.

Holes are drilled in the cowl mounting blocks, and 1/2" long sections of nylon inner pushrod tubing are glued in using Pacer hinge glue. This glue actually micro etches the surface of the nylon tubings to provide exceptional adhesion.