Howdy,
i'm back to the hobby after a 20 year break but i'm still able to evaluate
the supplied hardware as just plain cheap junk.
However, remembering the good and reliable stuff is almost as hard as reading through
all the posts and reviews to find out what kind of servo control linkage to use in order to build it strong enough
to avoid flutter and failure due to vibration and such.
I'm building the model with a saito 100, quad flap/ail setup, rudder and elev servos in the tail, pull pull on rudder
maybe also on elev. but not sure about the elev.
My question is:
1. what kind of clevises, servo horns, ail/flap pushrods are the best to use?
2. should clevises be metal and ail/flap horns be nylon or both nylon?
3. is it advisable to use ball links on one end and just z- or L- bends on the other?
4. should i use the supplied engine mount or buy a dubro for more than $30?

I must admit, I've kind of lost the know-how.
can anyone advise ?
thanks for your time.
pat

Pat,

I presume you are talking about the transparent yellow, Ultra Stick 60.

If I'm not building for a kit review, I tend to replace much of the hardware, although many people use the stock stuff.
-Clevices: The Sullivan gold ones with the clip to hold them closed or the new DuBro square plastic ones with the clip are my 2 choices.
-Ball links: I use these on external servos, especially ailerons, then a clevice on the control horn end. I sometimes use a Z or L bend, but always find the hole in the servo arm wallows out.
-Pushrods: For that size plane, I recommend 4-40 all around. If you don't mind high dollar, there are carbon fiber rods with titanium ends.
-Control horns: Some people like the threaded type you can micro-adjust, but I tend to use the small DuBro heavy duty ones. The white ones, not the giant size, black ones.
-Motor mount: I wouldn't think you'd need a big DuBro vibration mount. As I recall, it's pretty heavy. The stock mount should work or a Great Planes 60-120 size has worked for my Saito .91s.

I would finish the plane and mount the engine, but not the radio and put the battery near the front of the radio compartment. Then I would rubber band servos in place to get a location that would give me a middle of the road CG. Many people put the rudder servo on top, just in front of the fin and use pull-pull. You also might end up with the elevator servo in the side of the fuselage in the rear. I hate to add weight. With the battery forward, you can move it back when you want a more rearward CG.

I forget how long the landing gear is and if it has clearance for a 14 or 15 inch prop.

Don't gorget to seal the aileron gap with clear tape.

Thanks Ed,
just exactly the info i was looking for.
Yes I meant the yellow ultra stick 60 arf.
There are two more question though.
if i use those gold n clevises and ball links for ail/flap
the rod has to be threaded on both ends right?
isn't that vibrating loose sometimes? or is there an
other solution?
on what side do i seal the aileron gap?
thanks, pat []

Hello.

I am in the process now of re-hinging my Ultrastick 60.

I opted for the Dubro nylon hinges (1/4 scale) w/ the supplied cotter pins.

But I didn't glue them properly, and they slid out. I just don't get how the CA is supposed to wick thru the 6 small holes in the hinges. I plan on epoxying them this time (instead of CA) and reinforcing with vertical toothpicks through the hinges. Any advice???

Also (Ed), I am considering placing a gasket or thin piece of rubber between the motor mounts and firewall to mitigate the vibration. Should I even bother? (I am using the included mounts since they are relatively light).

I will mount the rudder servo in front of the fin, but wonder if it is really worth buying the pull-pull device. Please advise.

Thanks in advance.

Norb

Norb

as far as the hinges those usually do require epoxy instead of CA. I use the same hinges on most my larger planes and they work good. As far the firewall is concerned, what engine do you plan on installing? I helped a friend put his together and there was no need for any extra "shock absorbing" material.

In general I am using Dubro stuff for clevices etc and they work fine.

DiabloKid,

Thanks for the reply.

I'm pretty sure the instructions said to use CA. It was strange though. It assumed one was biulding a kit from scratch. iI think it said to puncture holes above and below the hinge and apply glue there as it would wick into the hinge joints.

I have an OS Max 61 FX.

Norb

I've got a new US 120 lite in the box, and have ordered the carbon fibre push rods and titanium ends from central hobbies and the dubro heavy duty control horns from Dubro. The kind you just drill one hole in the surface. The servos will get ball joint type ends from Dubro. I'm setting it up with flaps and ailerons and moving the elevator and rudder servos to the back. No pull-pull for the rudder. Mounting my Zenoah G26 with Brisson muffler on a beefed and glassed firewall. Hope to get my stuff next week and start building it. My old 120 wing is still in the tree that ate it. boo hoo.

My son-in-law has the setup you're doing on his US 60. He has a OS 91 FS with the set up you want. It's really cool to watch him crow it in from about 100 ft up, straight down to the runway and land with just a few feet of runway. I'd like to get mine to do it.

Suitcase,

Thanks for the message.

Well, I fiished my hinges yesterday, and will install the servos tonight. I planned on glassing only the landing gear block, but since you mentioned it, I may also glass the firewall.


I have a Futaba 9CAP. Has anyone out there programmed crow on it for the Ustick?

Norb