Hi all,

I just purchased one of these planes, which is currently backordered - waiting patiently! I hear it is the last run of this model. I purchased a Saito 180 to power it.

I was just wondering if this is a good handling plane? I can't seem to find much information about it on the internet. Also, any tips for building or ? would be much appreciated!

This is my 3rd plane and I wanted something a little more aerobatic. My Spacewalker is a good flyer, but not that capable of advanced aerobatics.



Any info or tips are much appreciated.

Thanks,
Jeff

I do not have any first hand experience with the H9 Edge but from what I have seen and heard is it flies very well. If this is only your third airplane I suggest you set the throws pretty tame and then once you get some time on the bird slowly increase the throws till you are having some extreme fun. The plane will fly slow and handle well but it will not be as forgiving or float like a trainer or Spacewalker. Those are the traits you give up when you want to get aerobatic.


Chris Puckett
Puckett Model Aviation

Thanks Chris,
I understand there is a BIG difference between the Edge and the Spacewalker. I have flown my buddy's Cap 231 a few times to help prepare for the feel of the Edge. I would imagine the 2 planes are similar in flight characteristics.

I'm hoping someone can give me tips for building it or things to watch out for - mainly.

Thanks,
Jeff

On Edge; I too had one of these for two years, before recently selling it. It is a fantastic flying airplane with the Saito 180 on it. I needed to add 6oz of weight to the nose to balance it. I am allergic to most glues, so I fly 95% ARF's. As with all ARF's, I tri-stock all formers up front, (or anywhere that looks suspect), added 1/4 ply to the landing gear area, and fiberglassed the motor mount area. With this plane, I even took the covering off the under side of the wing to inspect the inside. This only adds a couple oh hours to the build time, but is well worth it for the enjoyment you will get out of it. Many think this extra effort is against all that ARF's represent. To me, it prevents wings folding, tails falling off etc. If it looks like it should be beefed; beef it. The only other thing to remember, is that as great as it is, the Saito 180 uses 2oz+ of fuel per minute. 20oz = 10 min flight. Set your timer. See ya........

I've had my edge for about two years.

I fly mine with a Moki 1.80 and personally believe this is a good combination because for the size and weight of the airplane.

The only thing that really bothered me about the design was the wooden elevator push rod with a wire Y at the tail. I felt a plane this size with this 3D performance envelope would have been better served with strong servos mounted in the tail. So that's what I did and I've been quite pleased ever since. Its an easy mod and I'm certain when I hit 3D elevators in a blender I'm getting equal and solid throws. I did not modify my wing and have been performing the wall and blenders like a champ.

Regarding the flying: In the rear of the manual is a write-up my Mike McConville which is terrific. Essentially I followed his advise to the tee and have been rewarded with performing Elevators, Harriers, Walls, and blenders like never before. I must say that the elevator and harrier are so easy with this plane it's scary. Just make sure you add some spoilerons. You will need these to minimize/elliminate wing rock.

The only other problem I had was during landing on our short field. When I was running a 18X10 prop I just couldn't slow the plane down on calm days. I switched to the 20x8 and now I land with a tad bit of throttle at roughly 1900 rpms on the Moki.

Oh one other problem i forgot about./ Keep an eye on the hinges I've had a few break which I luckily caught due to my habit of checking the control surfaces after every flight. At this time I have robart hinges on both elevators and ailerons. This occurred on another 3D capable plane of mine and I think it is due to the large control surface throws required for 3D. So either replace them from the beginning or keep an eye on them.

Mike

jbflier,
Thanks for the tips! I like your idea of beefing it up. I will do this too. What is tri-stocking the formers though, and where should I glass the motor mount area, on the motor side or inside? Should I put a larger tank on this baby? Ah, ten minutes is probably enough - huh?

Thanks again,
Jeff

mrc100,
I like the idea of elevators in the tail. My Spacewalker has the wooden pushrod with a wire Y at the tail and I do not like it at all! But the Spacewalker isn't doin' any 3D stuff so it's alright.

Can you give me any tips for adding the servos to the tail? I have never done this type mod.

As far as the hinges, the Robart hinges must be pretty good huh? I've seen other threads here recommending them. I'll get some!

I'll check the write-up by Mike, I need all the help I can get! I'm wanting to learn extreme maneuvers and 3D aerobatics, that's what I bought this plane for.

Many thanks,
Jeff

mrc100,
One more thing... What exactly are spoilerons? I have heard of them but I'm not sure exactly what they are. Is this something I do with my computer radio or a hardware thing?

THanks,
Jeff

I have an H9 Edge in my shop waiting for me to finish a Topflite Gold Edition P-47, so I appreciate the experience/advice in this posting. I plan to install a G-38 with elevator and rudder servos in the tail. Any experience out there with the G-38 in this plane?

I agree with beefing firewalls and landing gear. I lost a Big Stik to gear failure. I installed aluminum gear, which pulled the bottom out after a series of loops, ejecting the battery with predictable results.

Posted weight at the H9 website for this plane with a Saito 180 is 11.7 lbs.

Has anyone realistically achieved this weight.

Here are the weights from my calculations....you are all welcome to contradict and correct them...

BME 44 46.7 w/M/I
Brison 2.4 44
FPE 2.4 48 w/M/I
Moki 1.8 48 w/M
MVVS 26 IFS 37 w/I wo/M
OS 1.6 32.6 wo/M
RCS 1.44 32 w/I wo/M
Saito 180 31 w/M
ZDZ-40 54.5 w/I wo/M


All weights are in Oz.

w - with
wo - without
M - Muffler
I - Ignition

I've not calculated the weight of the ignition battery here.

According to this, the lightest gas engine (FPE 2.4) will be over 16 oz heavier than the Saito 180 or the OS 160.


BTW...if a Moki weighs as much as a gas engine, why not go with the gas engine.

Spoilerons are ailerons which raise a smidge. A smidge being 3/16" on the edge per M.McConville. You accomplish this using a computer radio and in this case it is mixed with elevator as the master so that at full throw you get full spoilerons. I also program this to a switch so it can be turned off because in most cases you don't want the spoilerons active. Just for clarity when this is mixed you still have aileron functionality however, at nuetral ailerons and full 3D elevator you will have raised ailerons 3/16".

I'll get back to you other question about the tail placed elevator servos. Essentially I winged it and cut out a section of the tail and placed a few 1/8" ply pieces epoxied and glassed. I just spent a lot of time making sure the servos where placed in the same place on opposite sides and just low enough to get a straight connection to the horns.

Hope this makes sense I had to type it sort of fast. Have to run let me know if you have further questions/.

Mike

I would advise against using a gas engine on this plane due to weight. The gas engines tend to make this plane too heavy for good 3D performance. With the Satio 180 you could possibly come in around 12 to 12 1/4 pounds of weight. The only mod this plane needs is to add additional triangle stock to the landing gear mount to further strengthen it. Thats all. If you go with the Satio 180 you might want to put the elevator servos it the stock location because you will have to add a large amount of weight to the nose to get this plane to balance if you put the servos in the rear. The Y rod for the elevator can be made to work well but is a pain to get correct. That is why most people do not like it. Just make sure to use a stiff rod like fiberglass or carbon fiber. Also give the MDK Elevator Bellcrank a look from Central Hobbies. This is a neat little fix for the split elevators and works real well.

I chose a Moki for a few reasons.

First they have class leading power and reliability. Top Gun pilots still use more Moki 2-stroke glows than any other. I'm turning a 20x8 wood prop at 7,700 lean rpms and 7,500 ready to fly with a 1.8. My 2.1 should produce 26lbs of thrust with a 20x10 according to ModelAirplaneNews' review.

Secondly, I store all of my planes in my basement where I have both a gas furnace and a gas water heater. Gas fumes are extremely explosive and also tend to sink and travel...an ideal combination for an explosion with a gas water heater which has a burner located at its base.

Third, my wife would have major issues with the smell of gas in the house. And yes, she would smell them.

Fourth, I transport my planes in a 2002 Durango which I would not want to pollute with gasoline smell.

I know that steps can be taken to seal and help eliminate spillage, but knowing how reality filters into my hectic schedule sooner or later I would have a few drops.

FWIW.

Mike

P.S sorry for getting off subject

I bought the h9 540 edge, installed the Mokie 210, placed the elevator hinges in the rear. reinforced the landing gear area and the motor mount bulkheads. Do not exceed the throws in the manual for the elevators. On high rate the plane has a very nasty tendecy to snap when doing a loop. and on landing the power has to be on. A friend did the same thing only with a bisson 3.2 gas. It was so eractic that he traded the plane for an unfinished Balsa Nova. After 10 flights, I have had to repair the landing gear 6 times. I do not think this is a plane for a new flyer. I am going to get rid of mine because it is to hot for me to handle.

I bought the h9 540 edge, installed the Mokie 210, placed the elevator hinges in the rear. reinforced the landing gear area and the motor mount bulkheads. Do not exceed the throws in the manual for the elevators. On high rate the plane has a very nasty tendecy to snap when doing a loop. and on landing the power has to be on. A friend did the same thing only with a bisson 3.2 gas. It was so eractic that he traded the plane for an unfinished Balsa Nova. After 10 flights, I have had to repair the landing gear 6 times because it snapped on landing. I do not think this is a plane for a new flyer. I am going to get rid of mine because it is to hot for me to handle.

This is what I was trying to point out. If the plane gets over 13 pounds you start having problems like snaping. My plane in contrast handles like a dream with no tendicies to snap. It also does 3D with authority. My plane weights in at 12.25 pounds w/ the OS 1.60FX. This plane was designed as a light weight high performance machine with great lengths taking toward lightness for its size (this plane is actually a 27% version of the edge 540). It was not made bulletproof because the level of pilot it was designed for should be able to set this plane down like a cushion. By doing all of this unnessessary reinforcement all you have done is just added weight.

sport10,
That's exactly what I am trying to understand. Are the gas engines I listed suitable for a 1/4 scale plane like the Edge.

True...that people are getting the "Unlimited Vertical" with the gas engines, but they are adding at least 2 lbs to the overall weight.

Question is ... Is it really worth it ?

Another question ... Would you rather have a light plane or have supercharged monster which is heavier ?

BTW: I too have been bitten by the gas bug and have a MVVS 26 IFS gas engine for my H9 CAP 232. I haven't put this combo together yet.

Alot of these aerobatic scale planes start showing bad tendicies when they get overweight no matter what the size. If you think they are having problems with the edge snapping out when overweight just wait till you get a hold of a overweight Cap 232. Talk about snap city. You should shoot for around a 25 to 27 percent wingloading on these planes for good performance. The only gas engines I would recommend for 1/4 scale planes are the RCS 1.40 and the MVVS 1.60 other wise avoid the larger 2.4 size engines they are too heavy. Here is a list of engine and plane combos that I think would work well with gas:

Sig Cap 231 w/RCS 140 (good sport plane)
Sig Cap 231 w/ MVVS 1.60 (should have unlimited vertical)
Funtana with RCS 140 (This combo is rumored to come in around 9.5 pounds with and 80" wingspan with unlimited vertical.)

I have heard of some people using the FPE 2.4 on the H9 Edge 540 but have not heard any comments about the combo so I can not recommend it.

To answer you question I prefer a adaquately powered (still unlimited) light weight plane over a overweight pig with rocket like vertical. In 3D the lightweight plane will be alot more capable than the overweight one.

Hi Sport10,
Did you use the MDK Elevator Bellcrank on your Edge? Do you (or anyone else) have any idea what is weighs? It looks like a heavy little part... Is it much lighter than the (2) servos?

Thanks,
Jeff

light plane---no brainer...

I've had two H-9 edge 540's the first one had OS 160 everything mounted as per instructions. was just a little nose heavy, did not weight it but would guess it was under 13Lbs. It flew great but I was to green to know the difference, I sold it! what a dummy I was. The second one I still have, let me first say that I agree with most of the Ideas posted above for the light set-ups. Saito 180 for power 18x6 APC wide 30% fuel, two servo's mounted on CG use carbon fiber rods with 4-40 ends make sure servo's match for end points and speed ( you may have to try several before you find two that match). Use pull pull for rudder mounted near CG, 24oz. tank battery mounted as per instructions., CG will be on the money it will be tame enough yet 3D on command weight should be 12lbs 2 Oz's. use lighter wheels. ( optional) Bottom of wing needs to have color change, I used yellow and striped every other bay.Hope some of this will help.

Mike

Thanks MRT1750,
I appreciate you input!

Did you beef up the landing gear area?
What kind of flight time do you get? (per tank)

Jeff

What rpm do you get on the apc18x6W with the Saito180 and 30%(CP30) fuel? Have you tryed it on YS20/20? I have a Saito180, and don't know whether to use apc17x6 or apc18x6W.
Thanks.
DKjens

Sorry for the blank post I got bit by a smile
Well here goes again.
I did not beef up landing gear but it is not a bad idea. The cowl is going to need some extensive work for the 180 to fit and look good, also reverse the carb so the needle value is on top of the cowl, my flying time is conservative 8 to10 min. and I have plenty of fuel left.

RPM w/ 18x6 APC 8600 to 8800 on 30% fuel unlimited performance and slows down very well for landings and down lines. Last week I tried a 17x8 APC flys well but refuses to land and does not slow on down lines, flies unlimited RPM about the same.

Thanks
Mike