Just started assembling this plane and already a couple of problems that would like to see if any one else has. The motor mount is 2 piece. They give you 4 rubber washers( 2 of them are thicker than the other 2) to put between firewall and mount to create offset thrust supposedly. No mention of this is in instructions. I e-mailed them and the reply was that the thinner washers go on the right side and the thick ones on the left. Correct me if I'm wrong but all this will do with a 2 pieace mount is stick one out farther than the other. The holes for the mount are drilled off center and thrust will have to be built in to make the cowl work right. Also they are drilled way too close together for my Enya 120 so they are going to have to changed anyway. All the flying wires and control cables are allready put together with metric hardware which cannot be replaced without replacing it all. Every thing that is drilled or cut is for some foreign manufactored product and my stuff won't fit. Landing gear is built but the front and rear wire like 1/2 in. fitting in the grooved gear blocks ans have to stretched to the limit to bolt them in so are already under a lot of stress before the first touchdown even. This is beautifully built plane but they carried the prefab a little too far or had some poor planning one. Hopfully once I get it all lined out it will be agreat flier. Just haven't read much about this plane on here. Anyone else had thease problems?

No major problems at all! Mine went together as well as any ARF I have ever assembled. It is the most "finished" also that I have seen. All my parts seem to fit well including the cowl. The plane flys very well with a YS 1.20 engine and has plenty of power. It lands slowly and easily, but take-offs can be a bit tricky and a bit of up elevator must be held on mine to keep it from nosing over while flying from grass on the initial roll.

Sam

chinookpilot, How did you set up the engine as far as thrust alignment?

TD,

I did not use the spacers between the firewall and the engine mount. I could not figure exactly now these were supposed to go and, quite frankly, I can't see where they are needed. Anynow, the cowl lines up very well and the plane flys extremely well using the pre-drilled holes and supplied mount. It can't be much easier than that. I have the YS 1.20 mounted inverted--it works well and the combo does not have excessive vibration. Just a good, solid airplane.

Sam

The YS must have a smaller crankcase than the Enya. I don't think I'll use the spacers either. I very rarely use offset thrust when I build a plane but on the ARF's I usually stick to way recommended. Thanks

Anyone else?

I built mine in Nov of 2002 and I had very few problems with it. I called the manufacturer on those "washers" and found out they were for adding right thrust so the thin ones went on the right side and the thick ones on the left ( as viewed from the cockpit). I replaced the 2 50mm screws holding the tail assembly with socket head screws. I don't like phillips and I could not get a good tighten down on them. I also replaced the 20mm landing gear screws with socket heads. On the flying wires, I had 2 sets come up short so I just cut the hardward off the existing wires and made new ones. No big deal but it shouldn't have been necessary. Everything else was fine and I was pleased with the outcome. I am using a 120 Surpass, first generation pumper that I converted to non-pump. I'm waiting for 4 feet of snow to melt off the flying field so I have not flown it yet. I expect no problems and it should fly like my big Cub. BTW, the manufacturer says the covering is compatable with Ultracoat and repairs, if necessary, should be easy as Ultracoat will match their factory colors and stick to it.

-Bob

Finally test flew mine last week with a RCV 120s as the powerplant. Was airborne at less than half throttle and handled very well. Does require coordinating rudder with the ailerons to get a good turn but that' s to be expected. Elevator is a little pitch sensitive so I cranked in some expotential to try next time out. You do need a lot of elev. to flare so I didn't want to reduce travel any. Some of my flying wires did become loose after second flight and I think maybe they just stretched out all the slack in the fittings. At least I hope this is what happened. I'd hate to think they will all need adjusting after every flight. I think once I get all the bugs out it will be a very enjoyable lazy Sunday afternoon flier. (which is what I wanted)

Finally - the snow is gone and our field opened up so I took
the Tiger out for it's first flights. There were NO surprizes, it
flew beautiful. Big lazy loops, delsy dives looked as good as the
full scale but the best part was the final approach to landing.
Very easy to slip this plane and those wires really sing! Boy was
I happy! Lot's of cheers from the crowd watching, nice smooth
touchdown - very predictable. Converted 120 Surpass ran
flawless and had hugh amounts of power. Put 10 more flights on
it that day. Unfortunately, it's been raining for 2 weeks and I
have not been able to get back to the field so I am working on
the fully functional landing gear to add onto it. PAC did a nice
job with this plane - she's a keeper!

-Bob

I put the Large Pacific TM together in the spring. I was very impressed with the quality of the kit There were a couple of things I didn't like. I hate that metric hardware you get with an ARF and wherever I can I deep six it. The other thing I didn't like is the shiney covering. This doesn't seem right on a Tiger Moth but I can also buy it ALC and I might do one this winter. But one thing is for sure. It is a sweet flying airplane. I have a Saito 120 up front and didn't use any side thrust. It flies great at 1/3 throttle but my new engine kept stopping and my first two landings were dead stick. I have since put an on board glow driver in. As with any ARF you have to fudge a little bit here and there but you will be happy with this one

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i do have a problem with my tiger moth,i flew once no problem.then engines stopped
even after charging the battery still if i go full throttle it stop if i go half it runs for few seconds and then it stops
servos work fine,,battery is fully charged ,,,any clue why is that happening
help plz

Make sure you have enough room for the cooling air to enter and exit the cowl. Then make sure you aren't running too lean on the needle valve. Open it up til you can hear it slow down some then close it til the speed just picks back up and smoothes out. That wil be a little on the rich side but it should run OK there.