proulxlaw

My Feedback: (3)

Look on ebay. I bought 4-5 aluminum spinners from one vendor and they are actually better quality than my Tru-Turn and I ended up paying about 10-12 bucks a piece. I bought a 3" 3 blade for my Spitfire with a YS 110 and a Graupner 14x7 3 blade prop. Spinner looks great and is of better construction than most others.

I used a Dave Brown 3.5 inch parabolic spinner for my H9 MA and it is perfect for this plane. Great construction, etc. but pricey.

Do not use a plastic spinner with your Saito 100. My 100's break them right off into pieces from normal running. Nothing to the 4 stroke thing. just mount the engine inverted like the directions call for and you'll be good to go. When an engine is mounted inverted it runs leaner so just remember that when you need to set the low speed needle and set it richer than you otherwise would.

There are 2 things you should be sure to do when you build this plane: 1. apply fiberglass cloth and epoxy to reinforce the firewall and 2. take out the retraqcts and strengthen the gear blocks inside with 30-45 min. epoxy. Don't be too concerned about the extra weight. The Saito 100 will whip it through the sky. The reccomended elevator throw is way too high for low rates. mine is set at about half of the reccomended. Reccomended CG is good. I always leave mine about 1-2 ozs. nose heavy and trim it out in the air to be sure the plane flies and tracks straight.

The mechanicals will be a breeze to install and get working properly as the pushrods are already bent the way you need them. Any retract servo will work fine. Don't waste money on a Futaba or JR. You can get the same product and performance from a Hitec or Hobbico. I have at least 1 of each of the retract servo's and the Hobbico is as good as any of the others in my opinion and is about half the price. If and or when you can afford it, install Robart's. The mechanicals are nothing more than a pain in the *****. After a while they will fail even on perfect landings.

devildog_0431

I got the Wings Joined Together Wonderfully, Great Dihedral, Hinged the Ailerons, Put on the Wheels and Strut Covers, and Assembled the Fuel Tank. Going to work on Strengthing the Wirewall tomorrow along w/ the Assembling the Tail Wing and Hinging the Elevator and Rudder. As far as the strengthining the Retract Gear Block.....how should I go about that ? It's my first Retract Plane.

shakes268

The reason for my recommendation of a JR retract servo is that my Hitec 75BB retract servo stripped its gears on the first landing of the airplane. The landing was a great landing and there was no reason for it to strip but it could not handle the load of a turn (after the plane had slowed). The Hitec uses nylon gears whereas the JR uses metal gears which are less likely to strip. You do get what you pay for.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

But if the retracts are set up properly, they lock in both the up and down position, so there should be no strain AT ALL on the servo once in position

TOFAST4U2C

My Feedback: (2)

I broke the plastic horns that connect the servo wire to the retract. Waiting for the Spring Airs and Oleo struts to arrive for my Bird.

shakes268

I know Minn, still not really understanding what happened on the first landing - landing was good, gear were stable. Plane slowed down and the tail settled. The plane was almost at a stop when made a right turn and the left gear folded in. After that, opening and closing the gear resulted in it being locked in both up and down position. Maybe I got a bad one out of the box - who knows.

My problem was that after it did initially strip, the servo would be fine until there was some vibration. Retracts locked - had about 3 people double checking it for me. Start up the plane, start to taxi and gear collapse. You could turn the servo with your hand when power was on - no resistance. My thinking was that vibration would cause it to slip and when it slipped it pulled at least one gear just enough out of lock to cause it to collapse.

Since I switched to the JR I have not had any problem whatsoever.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

I use a Hitec 75 retract servo also and not one problem with it...$29 bux. Seal the tailfeathers to keep down flutttttttterrr.

proulxlaw

My Feedback: (3)

This also happened to mine. Turning on the stock retracts caused one or both to fold. Retracts are just cheesy. I replaced them with Robarts and they are rock solid.

shakes268

I just ordered a set of Spring Airs about 30 minutes ago. I'm tired of fooling with them.
I doubt I'll ever use another set of mechanicals unless its a 40 size airplane or smaller.

proulxlaw

My Feedback: (3)

I've never used SA's but I've heard good things about them. If they work as good as my Robart's you will be thrilled with them. Good luck with them and post pics as you install them if you can.

devildog_0431

The AirFrame is Finished, all I need to do now is Install the Electronics and the Canopy (Which will be Last of course), and also the Cowling.

devildog_0431

Today I picked up the JR 6102 6 Channel Plane/Heli Radio w/ Standard 537 Servos for now. For the Retract I got the JR 791 Heavy Duty Low Profile Servo. I've got the Aileron Servos in, working on the Retract now....Epoxy is drying on the Servo Mount Plate. It's a pain getting that plate in there....ARGH. Looks like I'm gonna be up all night so I can get this thing ready for maybe a Start-up and break in tomorrow [8D]

devildog_0431

I have all the Electronics Installed and Set-up in the Bird but I'm having some trouble w/ the Retracts and need some serious help. I'm using the JR 791 which has plenty of torque. It will bring the Gear down but it doesn't lock, I see that the Servo Wheel Horn is turning far enough that it's making both Retract Wire Arms touch each other and isn't getting the (Little bit extra travel it needs) The Gear goes up swell w/ no problems and locks in. I turned the Wheel Horn back some to take away a little play and give the Servo a little bit more room to rotate until the Retract Arms came together again [] My only other hunch is to change the Servo Horn from a Wheel to a Long Double Face Arm but don't want to hit the inside of the wingz. I was too upset w/ it and quit for the Night.....1 a.m. LOL (dedicated builder) Please give me ur thoughts on what I should do to correct this problem.

mgruenba

Devildog 0431,

Just some thoughts:
1) Are the retract arms on the outside of the servo wheel arm? If they aren't, move them all the way to the outside.
2) I don't know if this will work, but, try and add more travel to your retract servo electronically, using your radio.
3) If this doesn't work, buy a bigger servo arm wheel. Dont use a large servo arm, youi must use a wheel. Go to your local hobby store, get a big wheel and put the retract wires on the outermost holes.
4) If this still doesn't work, spend $300.00 and buy Robart Pneumatic Retracts. They will be a huge reward.

Regards,
Mike

P.S.: I don't know which propeller you are using, but in my Miss America Mustang, I am running a Saito 100 spinning a 14 x 8 Master Airscrew propeller. This is a great combination. I strongly recommend it.

devildog_0431

I have a 14x6 prop for now, the 15x7's are on Order at the LSH, the wires are on the outer most holeo on the Wheel, I'll try to add more travel, I attempted last night but didn't see anymore movement on the wheel. Right now the Gear locks down more problem, it doesn't lock up (which is better than lockin up and not down.......they need to lock down, LOL). Thanks for the tips, I'll work on it tonight.

devildog_0431

I got the Retracts working perfect now, lock up & lock down =) I moved the Wire Points Diagonally instead of Horizontal, it gave me the extra 1 CM of Travel on the Wires. Plane is finished, will test fly tomorrow. I haven't put on any Decals or the Accesories yet....will wait on them. Here are some Pics:

mgruenba

DevilDog 0431,

Congrat!!!, Well Done. 2 tips:
1) Definitely go get that 14 x 8 prop that I mentioned earlier.
2) Move the mufflers angle so that it is parallel with the wing. This will slightly reduce the mess.

Regards,
Mike

P.S.: Hope you enjoy flying her, you should have a blast.

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Dog...get rid of the white plastic spinner and put on a Tru-Turn polished aluminum spinner to do the plane justice. You will be proud.[sm=sunsmiley.gif] Otherwise, great job. Let us know as to how she flies. Be careful on your take-off roll as she tends to want to nose over. Do as I do and add about 4 clicks of up and then take it out after you get in the air and you should be ok. If you are going to fly from a paved runway, then it should not be a problem. I fly from a grass runway.

luc-RCU

yep ...alu P-51 spinner.
and no hole in the cowling, pls...
ok, mine is electric, that was ez..

devildog_0431

The White Spinner was all they had at the LHS, they didn't have any Tru-Turns or the other one (Forgot the name, it's half the price) Dan Something i Think ? I didn't get to fly her this morning....my group went flying before me and they crashed their Turbine Jet on the Pavement so they took off before I got there.....[] Next Sunday []

ALSO....I HAVE A 14X6 PROP ON THERE RIGHT NOW UNTIL THE 14X8 AND 15X7'S COME IN @ THE LHS.........WILL THE 14X6 WORK OKAY W/OUT OVER REVING THE MOTOR ?

mgruenba

DevilDog 0431,

Are you thinking of Dave Brown? If I was you, I would get a Dave Brown 3.5 inch P-51 spinner. I oayed $28 for mine. As for the props, most 14s and 15s will work. Until you get a 14 x 8, stick to the 14 x 6.

Regards,
Mike

soxman

I put some down thrust on the engine and the plane flys straight at all throttle settings without constant trimming. Worked great!

iflywhenican

My Feedback: (1)

Dog...MPI has a real nice alu spinner for about half the price also...thats what I have on mine.

devildog_0431

Today is a sad day indeed for my P-51 We got the Saito 100 started w/ little effort after turning the Highspeed out 2 1/2 turns at first, got it running, then fueled her up, went to start it w/ the Prop Stick and my friend was holding her steady on the front of the wing and when he went to turn the motor.....the Right Retract Strut Snapped in 2 w/ little effort (I'm thinking, *** !). It snapped right after the strut is coiled up as a spring, I called my LHS and he has new (Factory) Struts coming for now.......this really sux. These struts are just very wobbely.....I don't want to dish out the $300 for Robarts (Ive spent enough on this bird already), whats a good suggestion for a thicker set of struts that will fit this bird, where can I find them, I do want to keep mechanical retracts.

flyboy12

My Feedback: (57)

hey devildog I went with 3/16 wire that I got at my LHS and my dealer bent it for me and told me how to install them. cost me about 5.00 to get them and they are tuff [>:]