I ordered a red TT Decathlon from Aerotec Hobbies in Ohio on Friday, and just got it in today. This is the NEW version of the plane, P/N 4570, which is completely different than the old version P/N 4455.

The new version is set up for the engine to be mounted diagonally down, putting the muffler dead center on the bottom of the cowl. The head will poke out a little bit too. They have included a neat little plastic molded piece, where you can cut out the the bottom of the fuse to clear the muffler, and glue in this plastic piece to close up the hole nicely. They seem to have engineered the whole thing around the TT .46Pro engine, with predrilled holes, etc. for the mounting.

The new version also has a two piece wing, with a skylight over the fuselage. A two piece wing on a 64"WS model probably isn't required, but it sure will make it easier to pack this thing into a car!

So far, I've inspected the contents, and I'm incredibly pleased with the model. The quality is first rate, seemingly better than I could make myself. Wood seems top grade, laser cut, with nice visible even glue joints. I'll check them all out later. The covering is incredible. Real high temp film, with great triming. Better than I could do, way better. Overall, construction seems to be better than my Hangar9 80" Cub. In particular, many of the details seem better. The included aluminum airfoil struts are incredible.... with very nice end connectors. It also includes flying wires for the tail, with very nice connectors also. Even the wheels appear to be Dubro-like quality.

The whole thing blows away the VMAR that I bought a month ago.

Fiberglass wheel pants and cowl. High quality fiberglass wing tube...

Don't want to sound like an infomercial. I'm just a very picky guy, and I'm very pleased with this thing.

I'll take pics and post a build log as I put it together. Might be finished by the weekend!

Ok, here's some pics I took last night. I'm even more amazed than earlier. The fit of the parts, the way the whole thing is designed is incredible. I'd have to guess it was designed on 3D modeling software, laser cut, and all assembled on a jib. For example, the wing tube is just slightly firm to push into the fuse holes, and I didn't have to touch anything. That's as-is laser cut holes. Same thing in the wings. Tube is a slight slip fit. The tube ends inside butt up right against the end of the tubes in the wings. The side windows just pop right in, it'll be a snap to glue them in.

The only thing I had trouble with was cutting away the covering over the "spacers" that they put in where the tailfins go. It was a little tricky to find them.

Oh, and the manual is written in Engrish. The language isn't great, and the instructions are a little vague, but great pictures and professional looking otherwise. Not good for a 1st ARF kit, but definitely for your 2nd or 3rd you shouldn't have a problem. It's not much of an issue, I'm barely even paying attention to it, because everything just kinda fall into place.

More Pics

I don't know what the mottling is in the photo of the tail fins, it's just a digital image artefact. The finish is flawless.

More Pics

And... more pics.

Hmmm 40 view, no replies. Just so I know, is anybody interested in this, or should I not bother?

actually, i've been eying this 'kit' as a possible candidate for an electric conversion, say 20 cells and a decent hacker-type motor. the only question would be how to get the battery pack(s) in, li-polys are too rich for my blood at this point. so, please continue so i can get some ideas..................................

Not knowing much about electrics... I think there's probably plenty of room in the fuselage. The servo tray is towards the rear (rear seat area), and there's a huge empty spot in front of it (where the pilot would sit). Not to mention where the gas tank normally goes, but it's a little tight up there. Anything specific you need, let me know.

Do my eyes decieve me?? Do I see a fully symmetrical wing in this plane?? I like the struts too. Does the manual say anything about them being required for structural purposes?

Keep up the building thread, I'm interested. You're doing great!

Yup, the wing appears to be fully symetrical. I would also say the struts are required... though maybe not structural (load bearing).

There is a large fiberglass tube, about 16" long that slides into the fuse, then the wings slide onto the tube. The only thing holding the wings onto the tube, is a screw on each wing. There's a predrilled hole in the wing, and you just have to finish drill into the tube. Run the screw, one per wing, that's it holding them onto the tube. So, the wings get a lot of strength from the tube, but the only thing holding them ONTO the tube, is one screw. The struts probably aren't needed to take the load, but they have a second job, which is to form a rigid triangle, which helps hold the wings from sliding off the tube.

I don't have any experience with two piece wings. Maybe this single screw retention is normal. But I won't fly without the struts, cause I think they help hold the wing on.

I mounted the fins last night. Both the vertical and horizontal go on at the same time, since the vertical plugs THROUGH the horizontal. They appear to have come out totally square with eachother and the fuse, without much effort.

And that's about all the gluing required for the kit! The wings are two piece, and the firewall is already fuel-proofed! It's just bolt on from here.

Well, there are some CA hinges, but I'll be replacing them. They seem a little smallish to me.

The rest of the hardware is fine though. I will be using the clevises and control horns. They seem just as good as Dubro parts. The wheels could pass for Dubro too, they just don't have the name on the sidewall.

The pushrods also have a nice chrome plating on them. I am thinking about replacing the wood elevator pushrod with a fiberglass one, just for stiffness.

Yeah, I'll agree with the wing retention thing. The way the ends of the struts are made they don't look like they'll be that big of a pain to use.

I loved the Global Super Decathlon and have been drooling over the big Goldberg one but, I just think I might have to get one of these... Keep us posted!

Alright, had less build time this weekend than I would have liked. I figure I'm about half done.

Here is the mounting method for the tail braces. I think it's pretty slick, though I don't know if it's common or not. There is a 4mm hole drilled in the surface, and you insert a short brass tube. This way you can really tighten the screws, and the tube takes the compression load. Also gives more bearing area for the loads on the wires.

Second pic is the vert.stab. with the screw protruding waiting for the clevis on the other side.

The third picture is the center mounting point. The braces screw into the metal tailwheel strap. You can also see the included jam nuts on the wires. Oh, and you can also see the wires are chromed.

Last pic is the overall underside of the tail.

First pic here is the topside of the tail with wires.

The second pic is the landing gear mounting. The holes were pre-drilled, and lined up perfectly. The screws are wood screws that simply bite into the plywood... which I'm not too fond of. I'd prefer through bolts with nuts and washers. I'll see how it works out as-is.

Last pic is the fuse on it's 3 wheels for the first time.

I also got the ailerons and servos installed in the wings, and mounted the wing completely. You drill through the marked area on the wing, through both sides of the fiberglass tube, and into some wood on the other side (probably a spar). Then run a long screw through it all and bolt the tube up solid. I'm pretty sure the wing would stay on without the struts, since the screw goes through 4 layers.

I mounted the struts, fastening the bottom on the predrilled hole on the fuse. The forward upper strut mount matched perfectly in the pre-marked hole in the wing. But the rear upper strut mount did not fit on either side. I had to redrill the holes. Odd

The tube thing works very well. I learned about it on my Kyosho Flip 3D and it got a LOT of abuse!

Looking good!!

I've been following this thread, so by all means keep us posted RL. Nice looking ship and I've always had a thing for the Decathlon. I'm curious too what you are going to use for power, final weight, CG and if/where any added ballast is located.

I would like to power a plane like this with a 4 stroke and make it convertible to floats. The only thing I've seen so far which I don't much approve of is the direct rudder- tail wheel assembly, but no big deal. Good luck with your new ship!

Happy Fly'n...

I'm pretty darn sure that I'm going to use my TT 46 Pro. I've got this thing lying around, and the whole plane was litterally designed around it. I'll be VERY surpised if it needs any ballast.

I have thought that a nice Saito 82 would be nice mounted inverted... I love the Saito in my Cub. I doubt I'll ever buy another 2 stroke (this 46Pro was bought years ago and never used).

But then I'll still have this engine lying around... So, I think I'll use it.

I'll probably mount it up and check the balance. If it needs a stupid amount of nose weight, I'll go for the Saito. Otherwise, I'll put the 46 pro in.

When I say "designed around it", I mean the holes predrilled in the firewall position the engine diagonally, so the muffler comes dead center down the middle of the fuse. They partially cut (dotted line with the laser) the wood in the area around the muffler so you clear it out, and glue in this plastic concave bubble to clear the muffler. It's a really slick setup, and really hides the muffler.

This makes the engine head stick out of the cowl a bit, so it's not as scale as I'd like, but it's a lot better than 99% of the other 46 size sport-scale planes.

If you mounted the engine straight down, it would be completely enclosed, but you'd need to do something with the muffler. I didn't see any inverted Pitts style mufflers I liked. I'm leary of the strap on ones.

I thought of getting a fuse mounted tail wheel, but I didn't want to deviate from stock too much. I'll give it a shot. I haven't had a problem with this setup before, but don't have much experience. What should I look out for?

hey man, keep up the thread. i've got the old version in the garage- in peices. bought it used, ready to fly for a hundred dollars. does awesome looking vertical snaps- fullpower vertical climb, then add full up and left rudder only, no aileron. looks cool. you said said the covering is iron on- maybe ultracoat? mine had that cheapo sticky back covering. where did you get it and how much?

Here's a couple of shots of my Global Super Decathlon for motivation... A nice low pass and the tail end of a knife edge....

I really liked this little plane. I lost it in a tragic, van door slammed shut on it, in the wind accident... With a Magnum 70 4 stroke on it it was very overpowered at 6 pounds. Your 46 Pro will be plenty for it if the weight is the same.

I really like what I see on yours. Please keep us posted.

Ok, last night I did a rough balance check. I have all the servos in and hooked up, except for the throttle servo control rod. I dropped the reciever and standard battery in the fuse right under the CG, where the pilot would sit. Mounted up the wings with all hardware minus the struts (which are basically right on CG).

Installed the engine and muffler, MAS prop and spinner, and sat the cowling on the engine as best I could. Also put the empty tank in place.

I think the only thing missing is the throttle pushrod, struts and... oh the cover under the landing gear (which is very light and under the CG). And the electrical switch.

Balance was basically bang on. Just a *touch* nose heavy I think. I bet with the battery mounted under the servo tray (lots of room) it will come out perfect. No lead needed at all.

I'm not surprised really, since everything else is designed for this engine (17.1oz w/muffler BTW), and the tail is built pretty light. The fuse has lighteing holes cut in the tail area, and the stabilizers are build up, not solid.

My H9 Cub was very tail heavy. I will probably refinish it eventually, and drill lightening holes in the stab surfaces.

The plane was $185 IIRC, from AeroTec Hobbies in Ohio, who also gets props for prompt shipping.

RF... I like the thought of the Saito 82 and one could probably squeeze the 91 in there without a bunch of dead weight in the tail. I take it you are using standard servos as well? Keep up the good work and if possible, give us a RTF weight please when you're done.

You mentioned the kit came up from the States @ $185. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but I calculate it cost you approx. $280 if Customs nailed you for GST? You don't want to get stuff shipped up using UPS cause those bandits nail you $50 for Customs Brokerage. If you don't mind me asking, how much was the final bill and how was it shipped?

I see them advertised for $299 up here, which would be about $345 at the door.


Happy Fly'n....

I live in Windsor and actually work in Detroit. I commute across the border every day. So I didn't have to pay any extra.

I think the $300 price at GreatHobbies was a bit much. I can't figure out why there is still such a huge discrepancy in prices between US and Canada, given the dollars are so close in value (painfully obvious to me since I'm paid in USD). Either the Canadian importers are making a killing, or the US importers are losing their shirts, or somebody overseas is getting screwed.

Back when I had to order stuff from the US, I learned that shipping USPS was better. You don't get screwed for brokerage (which is BS).

I got things FASTER, and more conveniently (pickup, instead of the stupid notes "sorry we missed you"), and cheaper.

I'll try to get a weight, though that will be tough, since I don't have a scale.

I've got it loaded with Hitec 425's, except the throttle which is a F148 or something. I've often thought of using a mini servo for the throttle because of the weight savings. Is that stupid?

Last night when I hooked up the elevator, I found I didn't like the pushrods. I find the wire they use it too soft and bends easily. I'll probably replace it with a fiberglass ones. Stiffer and lighter.

I expect the weight to be light. It doens't seem to have much extra bulk anywhere. I just hope it's still strong. It doesn't feel "spindly", but it's not built like a Stick either.

Ok, tonight I went ahead and started mounting the cowl, with the TT46Pro engine in the "factory" location. Again, this will place the muffler dead center under the cowl/fuse, with half of it exposed.

I did my best job ever so far. Just cleared out enough for the engine head to peek out. Right now I'm debating... do I get the front of the cowl to line up perfectly with the spinner backplate (two planes parallel? Or do I move the cowl to have a streamlined blend onto the top of the cowl? The two are mutually exclusive. Just a small error in the cowl I guess.

I looked at some pics I had of full size SD's to see if the cowl lines up with the spinner or not (streamlined blend into the cowl top). They're all over the place. Some yes, some no. It appears some use aftermarket spinners or something, that are smaller, so there is a step going over the cowl.

I took some pics of what it looks like if I line up the cowl parallel to the backplate. It's probably what I'm going to do.

It may all sound really silly... it's just an ARF... but I enjoy scale planes.

Oh, and BTW, that is the spinner that came with the kit. It's high quality, and I do plan to use it. Nice piece. I might eventually get an aluminum spinner, just to make it more scale. But for now it'll do. I also used the factory horns and clevises. Good quality parts. I did replace the included CA hinges with SIG CA hinges, as the factory ones were a little smallish.

The Global S-D used a tiny-ish 1-3/4" spinner. What size does this one take??

The cowl looks very good! You're way better at cutting than I am....

I didn't measure it, but I think it's about 2.5" or something. A fair sized spinner. I noticed on many of the full scale planes, they have tiny spinners.

Thanks, I try hard on the cowls. I find they can make or break a plane. I've certainly messed up my fair share. I just really take my time because I think it's a very important step.

I've learned to use overhead projector transparencies to help make a nice clean cutout. And a dremel of course. In this case, I mounted the engine with the drive washer being 105mm from the firewall, as specified in the instruction. Then I removed it, and mounted the cowl, and measured 103mm to the firewall. That roughly sets the "depth" of the cowl on the fuse. I put tape around the fuse with one edge flush with the edge of the cowl, and remove the cowl. Then, cut out a square of transparency, and tape it to the fuse so that the rear edge is butting up against the tape I laid down earlier. Now it's at the same depth as the cowl. Then I marked the red/white transision on the fuse covering, on the transparency, to get my vertical spacing.

Now mount the engine, mark the transparency, cut it out, check the fit around the head. Remove the transparency, and tape it to the cowl so the rear edges line up, and the red/white transision line matches the cowl. Then go ahead and cut it out. This was my best attempt yet.

See the tape I have laid on the fuse in the photos? With the black line? The black lines are exactly 5cm long, with the front end being exactly where I want my hole in the fuse. Now when I reinstall the cowl, I can measure forward 5cm from the back of the line, and hit my target fuse mounting point dead on. Stops from guessing where I should drill the cowl to hit the fuse point.

Our methods for cowl cutting are similar. I use card stock reather than clear. I am going to try your method of transferring the template to the cowl. That sounds easier. I've been leaving the template on the plane and sliding the cowl in place to mark the cut outs. Your way sounds like I wouldn't need a third hand!

I'm glad the spinner is a little larger than scale, I absolutely hate grinding out spinners to fit the prop.

Is the bottom of the wing in the typical Decathlon fore and aft stripes?

Thanks for all of your good work.

Dave