Here's some pics of mine. I only have a AX-46 with a Bisson Pitts in it with a 11x5, but for now it will do. Although I would like to step up to a 60, it flies very well; it does everything but hover. [8D]

Very very very nice!
I will fit a new and HOT OS 91 FX on mine.
With the OS 46 AX is it quick?
Also,
it tends to nose over on landings?
Kostas

That's WAY overkill on power, guy. A .46 will fly it; a .61 is perfect, as is the .91 four stroke I'm using. But a .91 two-stroke... well, all I can say is, hang on.

It won't nose over during taxiing IF you balance it properly. Mine is just a tad nose heavy, and it is very well-behaved during ground handling, on less-than-smooth grass.

I installed a OS .70 four stroke today on mine. The head of the engine was going to stick out of the side of the cowl so I flipped the engine upside down. Has anyone here tried running the engine upside down? I think ever thing is still lined up proper but I wanted to double check with you guys.
Thanks,
Brad

I had this plane a while ago until there was a mishap, now I am thinking about getting another one. The last one didnt last very long. On my other one when I would come in for landing the nose would drop hard and even on high rates there wasnt enough up elevator to flare the nose up. It would come in steep and fast. The CG was dead on and there was a OS 70 four stroke on it. Any ideas what could have been wrong with it?

I fly mine every weekend, usually get 7 or 8 flights on it over the 2 days. Well over 30 flights all up.
I rarely nose over any more, I find it noses over more so when taxiing down wind, too slow, and more so with a full tank.
Keeping the elevator stick full down while taxiing helps a lot.
I have been thinking of moving the tank back over CG, this should stop nose overs even more.

I balanced mine right on the recommended CG, however I have since taken the cowling off. The plane still flys nose heavy, having the fuel tank up front wouldn't be helping. I have my battery as far back as I can with out making some mods, so if I move the tank back I will look at putting it back further.
As is I like the way it flys, but I do need a lot of up elevator when inverted. KE is crap, flat spins are crap, 3D is no existent, but I love flying it. It handles wind very well, and once the landing gear platform has been re-glued it is one tough little plane.
I have hit the ground hard a few times, tip stalled and pancaked for around 5 foot, run way rash on one wing tip from landing in Strong cross winds, but its still solid as new.

It does drop very quick when you cut the throttle, but you get use to it, every plane is different. I still feel it lands well, I some times fly it is with a bit of speed, other times I land with only a short roll out, either way is fine. Just be aware that it can tip stall if you wipe off too much speed.
One of the things I found when going from a 14x4W prop to a 13x6, it doesn't put the breaks on as hard when you pull the throttle stick back.

The colour paint ball splats are a nice look, but they are a pain. I am often ironing the tips back down and catching them on my cleaning cloth.

Chris, its sounds to me like you are coming in a bit too slow, the tip has stalled and you haven't had enough hight to gain air speed to pull it out. Having full elevator would only make it harder to pull out of a stall.
I find keeping a little throttle on and lowering altitude using the throttle (and using down elevator stick) rather than cutting the throttle and letting it glide in prevents this type of problem with heavier planed like this one. Moving th CG back a bit might also help, but the more you go back the more chance of a wing dropping.

Lover your work ProScaleRc, looks great!

Any one got a fix for covering lifting and bubbling ?
It craps me off have the covering bubble every week or so.

I'm guessing it was a combo of too nose heavy and to slow. At low speed your controls become very non responsive. On the next one you might try going back on the balance and keep the speed up a bit on the landing. From you description it sounds like you might have been more nose heavy than you thought. I have found that the manual is not always right on the balance points. I usually start with the recommended sittings and then adjust to my flying style.
Brad

Here are a few pics. I finished and broke in the engine today. Will have to wait for pretty day for first flight, I can hardly wait.
Later,
Brad

Great setup.
It's beautiful!

For anyone looking to build this plane I thought I would add a few notes. This is the first plane that I have ever built that balanced without having to change anything. The plane is built with the OS .70FL and a standard 6v battery in the book locations. The only changes are the inverted engine which worked out nice and a scale tailwheel which is a little oversized. In 12 years of building kits and arfs I must say this is one of the best arfs I have done so far. Oh yeah, one thing that bothered me was Tower listed that you needed a servo reverser in the listing but I found that not to be true so I wasted $35. Putting the servo linkage together with the wheel collars works very well and easy to do. I hope she flys as well as it went together. Id have to give the arf a 9.5 out of 10.
Later,
Brad

Well.. I finally got to fly my Matt Chapman 580 today! Very Very cool!
Only a few clicks of down and that was it. I am using a OS .70 Surpass II mounted sidewayways with 13x6 prop. Almost too easy to fly. Just have a few pics. ...Sorry nothing incredible just another word on a great flying plane.

Cheers


Jeff

Maybe the OS 91FX ( same as the one that's installed on my UCD 46 ) will make this shi.... hover....LOOOL

I put first flights on mine yesterday, we are still having some 70 degree weather here in KY. The plane is indeed easy to fly. Balance and trim was perfect right out of the gate. The .70 FS flys the plane pretty good, it can hover with a 13 *4W prop however it does lack speed with that set up. Great Planes has done an excellent job with this plane like I said before this is the first time that a plane was balanced when finished and no trim required after take off. I would prefer a slight more power, the Satio 82 might be a better overall set up.
Later,
Brad

Hey guys..... Well after 2 days a reading i finally made to the end... WHEWWWwww Santa has this plane sitting under my tree waiting for that special day.. Anyway the question I've got is this... I've got a Magnum 80 FS engine and was wonder what would be a good prop. for this engine and plane. If you read all 46 pages every prop in the world is covered so I thought I'd just ask and see what yaw thought.

Thanks
Randy

I think it all comes down to your flying style and what you like to do with your plane. A large 13 * 4W etc will get you the torque for hover and verticle climb (Think like a farm tractor). A 12 * 6 etc will be more speed and better for large loops and tumbling rolling manuvers. I am running a power prop right now but I might give a speed prop a look later on.
Later,
Brad

Well, I lost mine yesterday, Aileron hinges pulled out, lost control and put her into the deck nose first. Drove the engine back into the fuse behind the CG. Buggered a couple servos, other gear including Engine seem to be ok.

The hinges were CA hinges that come with the kit, they were glued and had come out with a little wood attached. One hinge only was not glued well on one side.
I pulled on the other aileron and it is holding well, but the hinges for elevator and rudder didn't take much effort to pull out. The all took some balsa with them so I suspect they were glued ok, may be they need more glue or the balsa is crap.
I didn't tape the ailerons, this may have prevented the problem. I did seal the rudder and elevator.

I am using the same hinge set up on my Flyton and WM extras, its got me thinking now.

This little Cap was my most flown plane in the hangar, I feel the extras fly better but the Cap was just so easy and more relaxing for me to fly.
I am not sure if I will get another, I do love the look and seeing the above photos with the virtual cockpit is making we want another. But I like to try new planes so I'm not sure yet.

Enjoy this Cap, I certainly did!

I personally have never seen ca hinges fail but I do read about it a lot. I do trust them on all of my planes and I really like the simplicty of installing them. Sorry to hear of your lost plane.
Brad

Yes,

CA hinges work perfect for me also.
I installed them both on my Supersportster and my UCanDo 46 and work excellent so far.

Guys,

I have a Brison 3.2 powered GP Ultimate using CA hinges with over 200 very hard, high stress flights. When properly installed, CA hinges rarely fail. If you are seeing a bit of balsa on the hinge then the wood never got soaked enough to "harden" properly and is not a CA hinge failure. A Ca hinge failure is usually two things, the hinge literally cracks in several pieces or the outer layer seperates

Two things usually are the cause of this. Not trimming away the covering from around the hinge slot and not drilling a little hole in the slot right in the middle of where the hinge is going to go. Also triming the slot too much will open it wide enough to not get good wood penetration of the thin CA glue

A third set of reasons is either not enough CA was used, the wrong type of CA was used or only one side of the hinge was glued in. In most cases where I have seen CA hinge failure of this type is because medium or thick CA was used where it should always be thin. I've even had students show up with epoxy on the hinges and a quick tug removed the surface in question.

As far as the best setup I found for this plane was Hitec 645's all around, a YS63 turning an APC 13X6. You'll get balastic performance, loads of hovering capabilites and great fuel milage.

Mine has long since been sold. I had one of the first ones to come out. I flew it about 30 flights and sold it to a policeman in Balt. The last I knew he was still flying the snot out of it

Well after reading all the GOOD thing written in this thread , I bought one! I have a Saito 72 in a Ucando (that I don't like) that I will be using to power the Cap . I did buy a 13 oz fuel tank to replace the one in the kit and am going to mount it closer to the center of the fusalage , with all the posts that say it noses over easy I thought I should use your input . I really would like to know if anyone has tried to lighten this ARF in anyway ? by cutting out or what ever ?? Or should I just build it and fly it? Thank in advance J.R.

Just build and fly.. it really does fly great.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, just thought I would ask. Merry XMass to All, J.R.

Well I understand your concern with ARFs... but for once it does fly well! THe Lesson I learned was.. with a 4 stroke engine.. Lock tite everything that has a screw or bolt. I was taxi testing in front of my house and things started falling off. Everytihng else was great. I had some one else test fly mine.. I was real Nervous... and he just took it up.. landed and handed it to me.. Way to easy... All we really did was tame down the throws.. just a little. By the way.. Love your signature.. too funny!

Jeff

Thanks Jeff again, the signature was told to me by an old time full size pilot when I was in training for my private pilot liscense 30 plus yrs ago. And you know what , He is right ! LOL .I am looking forward to getting this Cap together and flying (in the spring) I am sure that I will enjoy it a lot more than my UCan DO . I really enjoy tumbling manuvers and snaps from what I have read the Cap fits this bill. J.R.

Hey,

How are you guys doing. I just bought a Matt Chapman Cap 580 but i cant put it together till after christmas lol. What kind of servos are you guys using standard servos or digital ball bearing stuff. Has anybody that has built this ARF had any problems with the landing gear blocks pulling out or has anybody reinforced the landing gear. I am going to run a Saito 91, what kind of prop do you guys recomend for this motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Scott