Hi everyone!

Just arrived at my doorstep today!

The wing panels and tail feathers are built-up and very light. The construction, covering job, paint work, and quality of wood are excellent! The hinges are already installed and ready for CA. The blind nuts for the landing gear are installed, as well. There are strings through the wings to make the servo cabling easy. The decals have already been applied!

A few complaints, though... the wheel pants are of the rubber ducky variety (no problem I'll use the 1.20 size Cap pants I just got from Hangar-9 by accident), the tail group does not use an airfoil, and the control surfaces are not double beveled (I'll make a 1/16" gap and seal the hinges for more throw). Assembly looks painless, however. Should have it done by the end of next week. You can follow the progress on my website.

Not too shabby... I don't care for the pre-applied graphics on the wing though. How does the quality of the cowl look, and how well does the paint match? Also, what did this guy cost?

Hi Plane Insane!

>>How does the quality of the cowl look, and how well does the paint match?<<

The quality looks excellent, nice and light, too. The color is a perfect match.

>>Also, what did this guy cost?<<

$303.99

>>I don't care for the pre-applied graphics on the wing though.<<

If we're thinking the same thing?... gone, done.

Better! Will you be updating your website through the construction phase... I'd be interested in seeing how well it goes, and what you run across.

Any idea what you'll use for power?

Hi Plane Insane! (may I call you just plain Plane?<g>)

>>Will you be updating your website through the construction phase... I'd be interested in seeing how well it goes, and what you run across.<<

I'll keep the website updated, yes. Already I've noticed that there is a built-in option for dual elevator servos in the tail (as well as the included push rod).

I also noticed that I was wrong about the lack of double beveling on all surfaces. The elevators, in fact, are double beveled and capable of 80 degree throws.

I was wrong about being able to use a 1/16" gap to get enough throw on the rudder and ailerons, as well. There's just no way that's going to be enough. I'll have to double bevel those surfaces. Looks easy enough, though.

One more observation... the fuse is the only heavy part of the plane. It's just built like an army tank. I don't think you could break it with a bat. I'll definitely be hacking several ounces out of the fuse... and it won't be that hard to do... there's just alot of wood everywhere.

Hi Plane Insane!

I just noticed you asked about motor. We're going to try an OS 1.60fx. We got started on the project tonight. The fuse weighed 2.8 lbs. The goal now is 2.3 lbs. I think we can knock 8oz out of there fairly easy. Joey is dremeling away whilst I type. Nothing like having a good son to do all your work for you. :-)

If possible -can you take a moment and give me the weights -as best you can - for the fuselage /canopy cowl assy-no hardware
Also the wing panel assys - no hardware and the tail group - no hardware.
also what is the wing area - based on the total assembled span-the tip chord and a projected root chord.
I need another prefab for a friend ----

Hi Dick!

If possible -can you take a moment and give me the weights -as best you can - for...

Cowl: 7.2 oz
Wing half: 15.3 oz
Wing joiner: 1.8 oz
Rudder: 1.4 oz
Vertical stab: .7 oz
Horizontal stab with elevators attached: 5.3 oz
Wheel pant: 1.4 oz
Replacement H9 fiberglass wheel pant: 1.1 oz

I figured the wing area at around 1000 squares the day I got the model... I'll get an accurate number to you soon.

There's some more information about our progress on my site on this page:

http://home.earthlink.net/~jb01/kang...nstruction.htm

BTW, ol' pattern Bob was asking about you the other day at the field. Wanted to know if you're still building for people?

We finally flew the Cap today:

KangeUSA SuperKraft 1.20size CAP 232 with OS 1.60fx
(got for my son; flew 14 flights; cool plane)

PROs:
1) Pretty covering scheme
2) Excellent parts fit.
3) Good quality.
4) Fairly light.
5) Great for 3D (with some modifications). The plane flies very light at 11 lbs. It does tight waterfalls and spins of all types. It harriers well and torque rolls very good for a Cap. Locked it in one TR from one end of the runway to the other (550') before almost not having enough power to pull it off the deck.
6) Great service.

Engine: I am very disappointed in my first OS 1.60fx. It does not seem to have any more power than a Saito 1.80. It does not provide enough power for 3D. We'll probably throw a ZDZ-40 on it. A Taurus 2.6 would be nice... but even the ZDZ-40 costs more than we wanted to spend.

CONs:
1) The covering is not of the quality of Ultracote or Monokote.
2) The wheel pants are plastic.
3) The rudder and ailerons are not double beveled.
4) The tail group does not use an airfoil.
5) The landing gear was not prep-ed for paint, so the paint flakes off.
6) The firewall is not extended enough... should leave 6--1/2" to the prop hub instead of 7-3/4".
7) The cowl is out of scale and the intake holes are too small.
8) Not a precision aircraft.
9) The elevators hit the fuse on high rates.
10) The manual leaves out alot of details. Fine if you don't use a manual anyway.
11) Price... the H9 Cap is $199 and comes with fiberglass wheel pants.

Despite the lengthy CONs list... we really like this plane.

I was wondering what prop combo you are using on the 1.60fx. I am figuring a 18x6 or a 20x6 should do nicely for 3D. This engine should get quite a bit stronger as it breaks in though. I have one on a h9 edge 540.

Hi sport10!

Well... we bought two props for it... a PRO Zinger 18-8 and 18-6. We mounted up the 18-8 first. But, after a couple of flights that prop lost a battle with my pants. lol now We flew the 18-6 for the remainder of the day. We ran 2.5 gallons through the plane, and even though that is not fully broken in... it should be close enough to gage how satisfied we'll be with this motor.

As for the first prop... and my first RC accident... it was a close one. I turned on the receiver and tx... pushed the throttle stick to full... primed the engine... and my co-pilot shut off the receiver and checked the receiver battery, gave me the thumbs up and walked away. I pushed the throttle stick down to idle... connected the glow charger... and flipped the prop. Dern OS had been starting on the first flip every time and this was no exception.

It fired up full throttle and my left hand was feeling the stress of trying to keep the plane from pivoting into my face. As the rpms cranked up over 7000 I couldn't keep the plane from coming at me. I pushed the prop nut back with my hand... bruising my thumb and knocking my middle fingernail off (we weren't using a spinner at that point as we were experimenting with the CG). That bought me enough time to stand up... and then the plane charged into my legs. It was cold and I was wearing thick canvas pants, and also had, on a whim, put on long underwear and thick socks. The fragile Zinger was no match for my pant bottoms and the socks and long johns kept me from getting a scratch.

The bad part was that when the prop exploded it shot a chunk into my neck. I was sure it was going to be a gusher. I kept feeling my neck and looking at my fingers for blood. But, it never showed. Just scraped me up and bruised my collar bone area pretty badly (had a hard time eating and talking last night).

So, while Joey changed the prop... I CAed my finger back together and electrical taped it up... we were back in the air in about five minutes... and got 12 more flights in. :-)

Moral to the story? I fought the prop and the prop lost... but it hurt real bad. ;-)

Seriously, I figure this was my one lucky break... you can bet I'll be more methodical from now on.

Don't give up on it.....2.5 gallons may seem like a lot of fuel.....but it is not. The OS will get better, and better, and better......

Well--- here comes the broken record--
You don't start these engines by yourself.
You are fairly new at this - and have not seen - I guess, a person bleeding so badly you had to rip your shirt off and use it to control the arterial bleeding. then race to the emergency room.
I watch newbiees with 40's do the same trick you did - and I have done it myself -with small engines - so I know the panic of an engine trying to eat me.
I got cut by wimpy .29 controline engines - many years ago - so I learned when the danger was not as severe.
I now have someone hold my plane - always - no exceptions.
I occasionally started my ST1.4 setups by myself - but always considered it was at full throttle.
Last week - the throttle was bumped to half - so-- instant poweron my 40cc..
Even Electric models -with big 24 cell motors can be deadly - instant screaming power.
my big planes - simply put- no way will I trust anything.
This isn't an I told you so - just a comment which -hopefully will keep you from doing any harm to yourself.

Hi Pugsley!

Thanks for the encouragement. The motor does run great. I'll keep it around... but get the feeling that it would be better suited for a 9-lb plane... just like my well broken in Saito 1.80s.

It's just the way it is... you can overpower a larger plane with ease without affecting the wing loading... but these smaller planes are tough to get enough power for without making them too heavy. Every few ounces makes a difference in their flight characteristics.

Now, some will argue that these motors (the OS 1.60 and the Saito 1.80) will 3D a 13-14lb plane... and they're right... you can do the maneuvers. But, fly a plane with light wing loading that can pull out of any situation with serious authority?... and you'll always try to setup any plane you fly similarly.

I'm still looking for that 1/4 scale plane that can come in at 12lbs with a ZDZ-40 or similar and have enough wing area to still have a light wing loading.

Hi Dick!

>>always [prepare yourself as if the engine was going to start] at full throttle<<

You know... that will be my aphorism from now on!

I was a commercial builder for years. I've handled some serious tools and equipment. I've never been hurt by the tool or equipment I was using. OTOH, I've seen some grizzly accidents... too many to count. Anyway... I'm supposed to know better.

I think I'm just getting old.

Hey guys,
I have a SK Cap on the way......it is getting a Brison 2.4. I talked with a guy at Kange that has this setup and loves it.....his is 13 lbs with heavy batteries and no fuse carving. He says it still feels light in the air. Should be interesting!