I noticed today that the two parts of the elevator are not the same (one side has up elevator while the other one is flush with the stab). It's a one piece wood that came like that with the ARF. Unfortunately I only noticed it after I glued it on. Is there anything I can do it fix it. I imagine it will make a huge difference when flying. I would say the difference is about 1/8.

You may want to try heating the one twisted side with an iron (clothes) and gently twist it to the correct position. This "may" work, depending on the type of covering used. If it is the sticky backed stuff you may be out of luck. What plane was it?

Jerry

Or, try clamping the lower side to the stab (Sandwich the stab ans elevator between two pieces of plywood and clamp them so the elevator can't move) then clamp a weight on the other side to pull it down, and either heat it, or just let it sit overnight (Or both)

strulag,

Mike (as usual[8D]) has the right idea. After you get it straighten out, just keep an eye on it, as it'll likely revert back to it's original misalignment. It's usually a slow process, but one you need to be aware of.

The plane is a Sig Mayhem 3D and I believe it's covered with Oracover. Do you guys mean apply heat with the iron or with the heat gun? Wouldn't that screw up the covering?

Just might, but unless he flys it and can live with it....he is going to do something to cure it.

Jerry

Should I keep it all even or should I counter-bend it a bit so when I let go it will get back to even? (overnight that is)

Cut the piece of wood connecting the 2 halves out and put a horn on the other have. Pull your pushrod out and add antoher control rod so you have a Y . Cut another slot in the fuse on the opposite side and put back together. This is the only way to really fix it.

Ok I tried this method as it seemed the easiest. I clamped one side and pulled the other side way beyond where it's supposed to be. I even let it sit like that for 2days/2nights but it only lasts one day. By the end of the day it starts creeping up again.

This method seems too complicated for me since it's my first time I put together an ARF and had a hard time with that.


I now took the elev and rudder out (replacing the hinges) and thought that I might as well try to fix it with heat. It would be easier since I can lay it flat on a piece of thick glass and make sure it's totally flat. But I have no clue how to proceed.

How much heat should I apply (I have a covering iron that doens't say temp on it), for how long, and should I counter the bend while the heat is on? Or should I just leave the iron on it with very low temp overnight. Will I have to re-cover? Should I just strip the covering off at the beggining? I'd rather not have to recover since I SUCK. I had to just peel off the covering off half the rudder and then put it back on and even that came out like [:'(][:'(].

Any help would be greatly appreciated. THX

Totally flat won't help. You'll need to bend it in the opposite direction and THEN apply the heat.

As you bend it, the covering will wrinkle. Just heat until the covering smooths out again. You'll need a heat gun for this - a Hair Dryer won't work.

PS, aviod getting heat near the edges of the covering. The edges can pull loose. If you must get close to them, lay a wet cloth on the seam to protect it from the heat

So it sounds like you can do this in one sitting as opposed to keeping it in one position for long periods of time? I still don't know how much heat I should apply? Enough to shrink the covering or really warm where you can touch the iron?

Minnflyer is right. You'll just need to work with it to get it right. There is not much more info to give you. I think a hands on approach may be the best way for you to get this right. A heat gun would work best in this situation, but if an iron is all that you have, twist it as Minnflyer said and work the wrinkles out with the iron.

Best of luck to you. You'll get it.