RCshowcase cap/roto 35 combo?
#1
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From: Panama City,
FL
Does anyone have this combo? I am thinking about getting it as my first gas plane. How does it fly? I like to fly 3D, does it have the power to pull out of hover easily? Want to get some opinions before shelling out the $800. Thanks
#2

My Feedback: (32)
I do have it...love it.
The plane does not have the normal snap tendencies of most Cap's and the Roto 35Vi is more than enough using the Bambula 20x8 prop. The one and only thing I do not like is the landing gear. It's thin aluminum and anything other than a greased landing will bend it. I still have not found anyone who makes a replacement gear. Even my control rods were pre-made but I did replace the metal clevises with Dubro saftey-lock clevises. The hardware is first rate but they use CA hinges and I went with Robart hinge points for more strength.
When you build this plane you are given multiple choices on control surface setup. I did pull-pull on the rudder, used the stock tailwheel, and went way overkill on the servos (HItech 5945's) It probably does 3D better than I do but I only did the maiden this weekend plus 3 other flights doing minor trimming.
They even have a simple to follow trim chart at the back of the manual. As far as the manual goes, it is somewhat thin on instrcutions but if you have done a few ARF's before you will have no problems. You can go to www.kangkeusa.com and download the manual. One other thing about the manual, it shows that the wing area is something like 882sq in. But the box that the plane comes in shows something like 1200 sq in. I really do not remember but a call to Kangke verified the higher number and giving it's really go at slowing up I would beleive it.
I bought everything but the servos from RCS including , props, spinner, drill jig, ign. battery, both the breakin and normal running oil, standoffs. Talk to Mike at RCS, he knows everything you need. I think all total the bill was somewhere around $1100.00 minus the servos.
The plane does not have the normal snap tendencies of most Cap's and the Roto 35Vi is more than enough using the Bambula 20x8 prop. The one and only thing I do not like is the landing gear. It's thin aluminum and anything other than a greased landing will bend it. I still have not found anyone who makes a replacement gear. Even my control rods were pre-made but I did replace the metal clevises with Dubro saftey-lock clevises. The hardware is first rate but they use CA hinges and I went with Robart hinge points for more strength.
When you build this plane you are given multiple choices on control surface setup. I did pull-pull on the rudder, used the stock tailwheel, and went way overkill on the servos (HItech 5945's) It probably does 3D better than I do but I only did the maiden this weekend plus 3 other flights doing minor trimming.
They even have a simple to follow trim chart at the back of the manual. As far as the manual goes, it is somewhat thin on instrcutions but if you have done a few ARF's before you will have no problems. You can go to www.kangkeusa.com and download the manual. One other thing about the manual, it shows that the wing area is something like 882sq in. But the box that the plane comes in shows something like 1200 sq in. I really do not remember but a call to Kangke verified the higher number and giving it's really go at slowing up I would beleive it.
I bought everything but the servos from RCS including , props, spinner, drill jig, ign. battery, both the breakin and normal running oil, standoffs. Talk to Mike at RCS, he knows everything you need. I think all total the bill was somewhere around $1100.00 minus the servos.
#3
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From: Panama City,
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Thanks for the reply. They have a combo deal for $755. It comes with everything exept the oil, spinner, and servos.
#4
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My Feedback: (61)
The landing gear and wheels are garbage. Plan on replacing both. I had a set made for the CAP at TnT landing gear so they should have the pattern. Make sure you get them to make it from 3/16 or 1/4 " aluminum not 1/8!! The first set I had made were too thin and they bent just as easily as the stock gear. I eventually "doubled up" the stock and TnT gear and that finally fixed the problem. Had I used 1/4" gear in the first place it would have worked great
Trust me, don't even consider the stock gear by itself... I never had a hard landing it still flattened out. I was bending and re-bending nearly every flight. I must have had the gear off 10 times in the first few weeks. If you hit it hard and you will be fixing the wing where the wheel pants go through it when the gear pancake on you. It was a different plane once I fixed the gear. All of the SuperKraft planes suffer from horrible gear sets.. the rest of the plane is fantastic... just lousy cheap Chinese aluminum.
You will also have to reinforce the firewall with fiberglass AND tie it to the second former with some 10-32 all-thread. If you only glass the firewall and do not use the reinforcement rod - the firewall will separate at the top side where it meets the fuse. Mine had significant cracks only after a few flights... the cracks would widen when the throttle was advanced... not good.
I had that plane and flew the crap out of it. It was one of my first gassers.. it also was one of the nicest flying planes I ever owned. Mine had a 3W-24 on it. My only complaint is that it did not have airfoiled tail surfaces, but for that size, that is a minor issue. I wish they made a bigger one for a 50cc! CAPs are my favorite planes.
Good luck,
DP
Trust me, don't even consider the stock gear by itself... I never had a hard landing it still flattened out. I was bending and re-bending nearly every flight. I must have had the gear off 10 times in the first few weeks. If you hit it hard and you will be fixing the wing where the wheel pants go through it when the gear pancake on you. It was a different plane once I fixed the gear. All of the SuperKraft planes suffer from horrible gear sets.. the rest of the plane is fantastic... just lousy cheap Chinese aluminum.
You will also have to reinforce the firewall with fiberglass AND tie it to the second former with some 10-32 all-thread. If you only glass the firewall and do not use the reinforcement rod - the firewall will separate at the top side where it meets the fuse. Mine had significant cracks only after a few flights... the cracks would widen when the throttle was advanced... not good.
I had that plane and flew the crap out of it. It was one of my first gassers.. it also was one of the nicest flying planes I ever owned. Mine had a 3W-24 on it. My only complaint is that it did not have airfoiled tail surfaces, but for that size, that is a minor issue. I wish they made a bigger one for a 50cc! CAPs are my favorite planes.
Good luck,
DP
#6

My Feedback: (32)
goflyrc1,
Actually I do not have it but if you hang on until I get home on Sunday I'll weigh it and post it back here. I think I paid the same price for the combo, but until I added the little extra's it was close to 1100.0 but that included what I had mentioned plus I bought the 2.5 gallon gas can and a couple extra fuel dots. You may also want to ask about the ball links for the throttle. They use a nice curved one that did not come with my engine. I got a great deal on the servos in Toledo so taking a wild guess
desertpig,
Do you by chance have a pic of the all reinforcement using the all thread. I have a good idea what you mean but for the life of me I cannot picture it right now.
Actually I do not have it but if you hang on until I get home on Sunday I'll weigh it and post it back here. I think I paid the same price for the combo, but until I added the little extra's it was close to 1100.0 but that included what I had mentioned plus I bought the 2.5 gallon gas can and a couple extra fuel dots. You may also want to ask about the ball links for the throttle. They use a nice curved one that did not come with my engine. I got a great deal on the servos in Toledo so taking a wild guess
desertpig,
Do you by chance have a pic of the all reinforcement using the all thread. I have a good idea what you mean but for the life of me I cannot picture it right now.
#7
Senior Member
My Feedback: (61)
bubba -
Here is a pic that I have the shows the reinforcements ... along with the crack that started prior to putting in the rods. The whole thing took about 5 minutes to install.
My plane weighed just under 12 pounds RTF including gas (like 11 pounds 14 oz or something like that)
DP
Here is a pic that I have the shows the reinforcements ... along with the crack that started prior to putting in the rods. The whole thing took about 5 minutes to install.
My plane weighed just under 12 pounds RTF including gas (like 11 pounds 14 oz or something like that)
DP
#8

My Feedback: (32)
Thanks DP,
Mucho Thanks for the pic [sm=thumbup.gif]
That helps allot. I never thought of building an engine box. I just used standoffs but I will definitely do that all thread mod, that's a great idea. BTW...TNT does list the aluminum gear so I orded that. I was hoping for CF but I'll take anything other than the stock crap...
Mucho Thanks for the pic [sm=thumbup.gif]
That helps allot. I never thought of building an engine box. I just used standoffs but I will definitely do that all thread mod, that's a great idea. BTW...TNT does list the aluminum gear so I orded that. I was hoping for CF but I'll take anything other than the stock crap...
#9
Senior Member
My Feedback: (61)
I originally started with square wood standoffs, but felt there was a little too much flex in the mount so I glued 3/32 plywood to the standoffs to form an engine box. I wasn't trying for the box at all and would have rather not had to add the weight but I did not have time to wait for custom aluminum standoffs.. so that is what I ended up with. Worked great and it was very strong.
I am sure aluminum standoffs would work fine.
DP
I am sure aluminum standoffs would work fine.
DP



