modeltech twister
#1
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From: beulaville,
NC
Is anyone flying this plane if so how is it ?Im thinking about buying one I got a 72 saito that needs a home thought aboult the formula 3d by modeltech but dont think the 72 would be enough powrer from whit Ive read about it.
#3
I believe you're referring to the Twister: http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/123774.asp
I'm hoping we can get some valuable feedback on this model. I'm seriously considering picking one up and powering it with a Saito .82. If it flys as good as it looks.... [sm=wink.gif]
#4
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From: Kennewick,
WA
I ordered mine back in Feb. and just found out that it should be here any day.
I've got the engine and radio gear sitting here ready to be installed.
It looks like it was a joint design with YT International, and Global, and from what I've heard it should be great, especially if YT had a hand in it.
I'll keep you guys updated.
I've got the engine and radio gear sitting here ready to be installed.
It looks like it was a joint design with YT International, and Global, and from what I've heard it should be great, especially if YT had a hand in it.
I'll keep you guys updated.
#5
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From: birmingham, UNITED KINGDOM
I don't think you'll be disapointed. I had the prototype Twister with an old OS 46FX for power, it was insane.
Hey, but I'm biased right?
If you've got any questions I'll do my best to answer them.
Hey, but I'm biased right?
If you've got any questions I'll do my best to answer them.
#6
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From: Wolverhampton, UNITED KINGDOM
My lad Stuart had one of the other prototypes, really smooth aircraft, powered by a Super Tigre G51, it flies as well if not better than it looks. Waiting for mine should be available in the UK around July, have an OS51SX waiting for it. You mentioned the Formula in a different category to the Twister, just a different type of flying, you need to decide what sort of flying you want to do or buy both!
#9
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From: Kennewick,
WA
Finally, it arrived today!!
Everything looks good, the covering job is excellent, not sure if I like the design, but the work is excellent.
The hardware looks like it could use a bit of improvement, but everything else looks great.
Everything looks good, the covering job is excellent, not sure if I like the design, but the work is excellent.
The hardware looks like it could use a bit of improvement, but everything else looks great.
#10
ORIGINAL: Backwing
Finally, it arrived today!!
Everything looks good, the covering job is excellent, not sure if I like the design, but the work is excellent.
The hardware looks like it could use a bit of improvement, but everything else looks great.
Finally, it arrived today!!
Everything looks good, the covering job is excellent, not sure if I like the design, but the work is excellent.
The hardware looks like it could use a bit of improvement, but everything else looks great.
Provided the build and flight reports are good, I plan on picking one up. What engine are you going with? I'll be using a Saito .82. Any details would be much appreciated!
#11
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From: Kennewick,
WA
Well, so far... O.K.
This is my second Modeltech plane, and they still can't figure out how to line up blind nuts and wing hold down bolts(maybe I just get bad ones). I had to lengthen the holes toward the LE about 1/4" to get them to line up.
I was stuck on instruction number one until I figured out that the holes for the servo leads to exit are not where they say they are. I didn't want to hack up the covering trying to find it.
Then to attach the belly pan to the wing, they say to use silicone sealant. First time I've ever seen that. I'd rather use epoxy, but I used the silicone, and we'll see how it holds.
I am impressed with the wing joiner. I'm used to the little 6-8" ones. This one is 12" long
The rest of the build should go pretty smooth, and I hope to get it up this weekend.
It will have a K&B .48
I think your 82 would be great if it will fit in the cowl. I know a couple guys that have 82's in their Twist's.
This is my second Modeltech plane, and they still can't figure out how to line up blind nuts and wing hold down bolts(maybe I just get bad ones). I had to lengthen the holes toward the LE about 1/4" to get them to line up.
I was stuck on instruction number one until I figured out that the holes for the servo leads to exit are not where they say they are. I didn't want to hack up the covering trying to find it.
Then to attach the belly pan to the wing, they say to use silicone sealant. First time I've ever seen that. I'd rather use epoxy, but I used the silicone, and we'll see how it holds.
I am impressed with the wing joiner. I'm used to the little 6-8" ones. This one is 12" long
The rest of the build should go pretty smooth, and I hope to get it up this weekend.
It will have a K&B .48
I think your 82 would be great if it will fit in the cowl. I know a couple guys that have 82's in their Twist's.
#12
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From: Wolverhampton, UNITED KINGDOM
What I do with belly pans is mark the position with a pencil then with a fine tipped soldering iron (highest setting) burn through the film to the wood on the inside of the pencil lines. Then using thick cyano glue the belly pan in place. This method makes sure you dont damage the wood and that you glue straight to the wood and the film edges are sealed.
#13
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From: Kennewick,
WA
Well, thing are going well, now that I finally got some time to work on the plane.
All control surfaces are installed with CA hinges, gear is on with wheel pants, engine installed, and now I'm getting ready to start puting in the radio gear.
The firewall has right thrust built in to it.
Blind nuts for the main gear lined up nicely.
Only minor problem so far, is the wood backing pieces that glue inside the wheel pants don't fit in the little reced spot for them, but I got it to work.
All control surfaces are installed with CA hinges, gear is on with wheel pants, engine installed, and now I'm getting ready to start puting in the radio gear.
The firewall has right thrust built in to it.
Blind nuts for the main gear lined up nicely.
Only minor problem so far, is the wood backing pieces that glue inside the wheel pants don't fit in the little reced spot for them, but I got it to work.
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From: Wolverhampton, UNITED KINGDOM
You have got them before us in the UK, however I built flew the prototype in the UK about 4 months ago, that was powered by a Super Tigre G51 on a throttle pipe and was just about right . I have put my name on one as soon as they arrive in the UK (my son has the prototype), no long now. I have an OS50 waiting for mine.
#16
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From: Kennewick,
WA
Getting very close to being done now.
I'm waiting on a new aileron servo to show up, I decided to upgrade them and only had one.
And I need to find a pilot before I attach the canopy, then I can install the Rx and batt. then balance.
Then the only other thing, is this wind. It hasn't quit blowing for over a week.
I did end up changing out the rods for the rudder pull-pull system to Sullivan wires. The rods bind too much for smooth operation, and I worked the rods up, down, and around trying to bend it just enough to make it smooth. But it just wasn't going to happen.
Part of the problem is the elevator servos in the rear of the fuse. As soon as I cut the covering from the servo holes I knew there was going to be a problem. The tubes for the rudder rods go right through where the servos mount. So when you install the servos, you have to bend the tubes just enough to made the rods bind in them.
I'm waiting on a new aileron servo to show up, I decided to upgrade them and only had one.
And I need to find a pilot before I attach the canopy, then I can install the Rx and batt. then balance.
Then the only other thing, is this wind. It hasn't quit blowing for over a week.
I did end up changing out the rods for the rudder pull-pull system to Sullivan wires. The rods bind too much for smooth operation, and I worked the rods up, down, and around trying to bend it just enough to make it smooth. But it just wasn't going to happen.
Part of the problem is the elevator servos in the rear of the fuse. As soon as I cut the covering from the servo holes I knew there was going to be a problem. The tubes for the rudder rods go right through where the servos mount. So when you install the servos, you have to bend the tubes just enough to made the rods bind in them.
#18
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From: Kennewick,
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There is about 11" from the crank to the ground. Should be no problem swinging an 18" prop on that 63 
Just to let you know the servo lead holes in the wings are half circles right up against the root rib about 6.5" from the TE.

Just to let you know the servo lead holes in the wings are half circles right up against the root rib about 6.5" from the TE.
#19
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From: Kennewick,
WA
One more error in the instructions.
They say the exit holes for the Rx antenna is on the right side of the fuse. No, it's on the left. Now I have a nice little hole in the covering on the right side.
They say the exit holes for the Rx antenna is on the right side of the fuse. No, it's on the left. Now I have a nice little hole in the covering on the right side.
#24
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From: beulaville,
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well i just finshed mine up today. it went together pretty good with exception to the pull pull system. i had to install a wire pull pull the ele, servos put a slight bend in the oridginal rods causing them to bind. the belly pan cut outs for the wing bolts were in the wrong place had to move them aboult 2 inches to the rear. the rest seem to be pretty simple.i am running a saito 72 the cg with no added weight is about 4.5 in from the leading edge and comes out dry at around 5.5lbs. i havent had a chance to test fly it yet but will very soon and will post what i think lol.
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From: Strafford,
MO
That is 2 people that have had that problem, I will pick up wires tomorrow as that is one of the next things to do for me..... Can't wait to see the first video or hear the first flight report........




