building tips for H9 cap (73")
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building tips for H9 cap (73")
How about some tips on building the cap since so many of us got this plane at such a great price.
One thing that I did on mine was when the directions have you install the dowl rod support plates inside the fuse I made a one piece plate out of 1/4 ply that measure about 1" by 6". I used the 1/4 ply because of all the reports of the stock plates wearing out the hole. Just lay the plate up to the dowl rods on the wing, mark and drill. I then layed the wing into place on the plane and checked the fit of the one piece plate. Once satisfied with the fit I marked the plate with the fuse so the wing was centered. I then used 15 min epoxy, and glued the plate in place with the wing installed. The wing helped to hold the plate in place. After the glue had started to set up alittle I removed the wing being careful not to move the plate. This seemed alot easier then the book and a hole lot stronger
Thats my tip, How about some more from the rest of the cap gang.
One thing that I did on mine was when the directions have you install the dowl rod support plates inside the fuse I made a one piece plate out of 1/4 ply that measure about 1" by 6". I used the 1/4 ply because of all the reports of the stock plates wearing out the hole. Just lay the plate up to the dowl rods on the wing, mark and drill. I then layed the wing into place on the plane and checked the fit of the one piece plate. Once satisfied with the fit I marked the plate with the fuse so the wing was centered. I then used 15 min epoxy, and glued the plate in place with the wing installed. The wing helped to hold the plate in place. After the glue had started to set up alittle I removed the wing being careful not to move the plate. This seemed alot easier then the book and a hole lot stronger
Thats my tip, How about some more from the rest of the cap gang.
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building tips for H9 cap (73")
Don't put servos in the tail because the airplane already is tail heavy. Even with a gas engine, I had to add lead to the nose (yuk).
I replaced factory landing gear with TNT landing gear because original gear shattered on me during a landing on asphalt.
I replaced factory landing gear with TNT landing gear because original gear shattered on me during a landing on asphalt.
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building tips for H9 cap (73")
Throw the supplied elevator pushrod in your parts basket, and install dual elevator servo's, using fiberglass pushrods. Do not use standard servo's. High torque on all except throttle. I would also invest in the dubro heavy duty servo horns.
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H9 Cap232
Ensure the rear wing bolt block in the fuse is glued securely.
As you have heard, Keep everything as far forward as you can.
With an OS 1.60, Mine was still 1/2" behind the rearmost cg limit.
It flew well at that though, I am loathe to add lead to any plane for balance.
The stock method for the tail wheel won't last long. Try a better (but still light) aftermarket setup.
Watch the firewall for seperation from the tri stock. The glue they use is not so good. mine was split halfway down when I discovered it after a few flights.
This plane flys very good in all attitudes, makes a good precision flyer, just keep it light or you'll have to add a pound to the nose to balance it.
Greg J
As you have heard, Keep everything as far forward as you can.
With an OS 1.60, Mine was still 1/2" behind the rearmost cg limit.
It flew well at that though, I am loathe to add lead to any plane for balance.
The stock method for the tail wheel won't last long. Try a better (but still light) aftermarket setup.
Watch the firewall for seperation from the tri stock. The glue they use is not so good. mine was split halfway down when I discovered it after a few flights.
This plane flys very good in all attitudes, makes a good precision flyer, just keep it light or you'll have to add a pound to the nose to balance it.
Greg J
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Re: H9 Cap232
Originally posted by gjestico
Ensure the rear wing bolt block in the fuse is glued securely.
As you have heard, Keep everything as far forward as you can.
With an OS 1.60, Mine was still 1/2" behind the rearmost cg limit.
Greg J
Ensure the rear wing bolt block in the fuse is glued securely.
As you have heard, Keep everything as far forward as you can.
With an OS 1.60, Mine was still 1/2" behind the rearmost cg limit.
Greg J
My wing block came loose last season. It was one of those just fly around days without much crazy stuff. It just kept going out of trim so when I landed it OH!!!. put some screws through the fuse ply into the block and some 30 minute. Many flights since and no weakness.
I have a 1.80 Saito/1500ma nicad all as far forward as it will go just to get the CG right.
Though plane to balance without lead but a good flyer.
Mike
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Hangar 9 CAP
I fly mine with a BME 44 on the nose. I started out by tearing all the covering off of the fuse so I could redo some of the frame work. I used a dremel and very neatly cut away some of the ply in the very back of the fuse. I also framed up some mounting areas for servos in the tail. Another thing I did was heated up a wire and cut some of the foam out of the turtle deck. CHECK the INCIDENCE of the rear stab and the main wing. I found a center line for the fuse and the set the stab incidence to 0, the rear stab started out at 1 1/2 degree positive. The wing was pretty close to 3/8 a degree positive when I did this, so I left it alone. BE VERY WEIGHT CONSCIOUS. With a BME44 I was able to get the weight down around the 13.5 lbs area, not bad considering that the same plane with a YS 140 weighs about 12.75 lbs. Good Luck, JEFF
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CAP 232 WEIGHT
Originally posted by Mike Bell
Good weight for that plane setup!
Good weight for that plane setup!
I have yet to fly this plane and prelim's indicate C.G. will be close.
I hope I dont have to add weight to the nose. If I do I'll just put the stock L.G. back on.
See pic of mount.