brewmanbrett

Are you saying you like the sound of that weed eater motor better than your Saito? Man, there's nothing like a 4-stroke! If you've ever heard a snarling Pratt & Whitney like those on the Tora Tora Tora planes, you'll notice a distinct similarity. I can understand wanting a gasser because of clean-up or the high cost of nitro, but do yourself a favor and get a 4-stroke gasser and keep that beautiful sound! You're more than welcome to compare the cadence and pitch by watching my video above. That's an FA-100, probably about the smallest one you would want to put on this bird.

PS - I'd hate to find out what kind of prop and tune job was done on that Mustang that got it's "doors blown off" 'cause the 2nd fastest plane I've ever seen was my brothers H9 60 Stang with a Saito 100. The fastest was his H9 60 Corsair with an FA-100 turning an MA 15x7 3 blade.

brewmanbrett

After reading through this thread several times, I can't help but be disappointed at how little interesting information is contained in the exhausting 35 pages of this thread. Especially the outrageous number of postings that focus only on the retracts. I believe a large part of this is due to the fact that this thread is located in the ARF/RTF section, rather than the Warbirds forum. There just seems to be a big difference in the things that interest the two different types of flyers, or maybe it's just that all the 'historians' tend to spend their time with the Warbirds.

In the threads I've followed in the Warbird forum, I have found a lot more information on scale detailing, historical information, and innovative "tricks of the trade" that interest warbird fans. Although it would be a great shame to lose SOME of the information that is contained here, I think it would greatly benefit new owners of this plane to spend their time hanging out in the RC Warbird Forum where their postings and important questions are more likely to be seen and responded to by highly experienced Warbird enthusiasts, giving them a better chance at putting together a better Jug. After all, even though this plane does fly more like a sport plane than a scale kit, it's still a Warbird, and does require I higher, or different, degree of skill than most ARF sportplanes.

It is for this reason that I started a new thread in the Warbird Forum. This is not designed to ruffle the feathers of anyone who has posted here already, just to keep up the activity and innovation on a plane that I really enjoy flying, and with some luck, be able to continue to upgrade in the future. So I encourage all of you, especially those who have yet to build their Jugs, to focus your attention to this new thread. I think you will be highly satisfied with the different information you will find and receive there.

[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6107265[/link]

Feel free to chime in if you disagree.



Cheers!

da Rock

There is a thread in the warbirds forum specifically about those retracts. I've been following it because I've got the rotating ones on order. Up until this morning, nobody has posted about the recent version. They have started building them here and dropped the Chinese supplier because of low quality. And nobody has flown the domestic ones yet.

f_shawn68

No brewman, im not saying I like the sound better. I said I would like to put one in a bipe or corsair. I havnt fired my saito up yet. Puting the final touches on the plane this week and will get started on the break in this weekend. I have another engine I need to break in as well on my twist. Work seems to keep getting in the way of play.

KC36330

he should be more well informed, Nitro production has been put on hold in China in order to clean up the environment for the summer Olympics, they also closed down their production plants that are within XX miles of the Olympics for 'safety concerns', this has put a huge supply reduction of Nitro world wide, it has nothing to do with homeland security. education is priceless, your LHS owner should invest in some.

Jeff S.

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Guys,

I need some help/advice for my P-47 / G20EI combo. I have two issues that some of you may have resolved already.

1st, I am having to add about 8 clicks of down elevator so get straight/levle flight. The elevator is deflected noticeable down, I have checked incedence and the wing is very close to the stab. I have also added som more down thrust on the engine which provided only a slight change.

the other problem that I am having is with the G20. It runs great on the ground and great in the air at half to full throttle. Every time I cut the power on final though, the engine will quit running. When I get it back to the pits and re-start it, it will idle fine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jeff

KC36330

the down elevator in flight is very normal on short coupled war birds, program in about 10% down elevator from mid stick to WOT.

the problem with the engine dieing is it's overheating, you need to cut a hole in the bottom of the cowl.

Jeff S.

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for this info. I think I'll try flying the plane with thte cowling removed. That should be enough cooling to prove that theory.

KC36330,

Do you have a P-47 with a G20? How big of a hole did you have to cut in the bottom of the cowling to provide enough cooling?

Thanks,
Jeff

brewmanbrett

Birman,

Hows the Jug lookin?

KC36330

Yes I've got the G20ei on my Jug and the hole had to be roughly 3" wide and about 2 1/2" front to back, i was dead sticking every flight till i cut the hole. i too didn't want any extra holes in the cowl but you can't even see this one as it's all under the bottom.

Birman

brewmanbrett, I quit working on the jug while waiting for another set of wings from Horizon. In the meantime, I put together a H9 Pulse XT 60 and have been playing with that. I'll get back on the jug soon,

David M in UK

Hi All,

Thought I'd add an up to date report on how my Thunderbolt's going now...

I posted a little while ago that I had trouble stopping it on landing and usually needed the fluffy stuff at the end of the strip to bring it to a halt. Well, the RCV 91CD has now had 20+ flights and have now taken the idle reliably down further to cut the airspeed enough to land on the strip every time, even in flat calm conditions. It can now even land before the halfway point, drift to one side of the runway and swing it round to taxi back to me, about turn again and blast off for a few more minutes before repeating it again, all on standard retracts and a grass strip.

I'm enjoying this model/engine combo and the sight and sound always bring comments from those around me. I have stiffened up my cowl with another layer of glass cloth around the inside and the added nose weight has taken off a little of the down elevator trim and also made the model even more solid in the air. Axial rolls have been unaffected by this as well.

I've enclosed a few pictures of the model from April.

Cheers all and good luck........

David

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

David;

I run the same engine in my P-47; the RCV is reliable, not a real power house; trying different props; I see you using a Graupner, what size and what kind of top end RPM's are you getting? I've attached a couple of photos of my RCV 91CD on my P-47, it shows the vented oil collection system I devised, works great.

David M in UK

Hi dasintex,

You got that reply in quick..!

Your set up looks really smart mate, well done. I really like your oil collection set up and I will try and incorporate something like that on my model sometime. It won't look as good as yours though, but I can only hope..

I train the vent pipe through the dummy engine down to the bottom of the cowl's front into an absorbant tissue each session. Seems to allow it to breath ok and saves splashing the model. The oil stays put through all the aeros it goes through.

I use a 14x7 Graupner, I tend to use them on all my planes as I find them quiet and pretty well balanced from the off. Sorry, I don't own a tacho so can't say on a figure for the top end, but I find the performance really scale without the model screaming about. I can pull up into large loops from level flight easily by opening the tap and a majority of the flight is half throttle for barrel rolls etc. or less for general stooging about.

I'm finding the engine amazingly economical and regularly have 20+ minute flights on the supplied tank and still drain a fair bit out at the end of the day.

Don't want to put the cat amongst the pigeons, but the RCV has always kept banging so far and not missed a beat. When I retuned the idle needle, I could turn down the throttle travel adjust an amazing amount for an idle I coudn't believe. Still keeps going but is almost allowing the model to land as if dead stick..!

Best wishes,
David

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

David;

The Collection tank is a 'Control Line Airplane Fuel Tank'; has 3 tubes attached to it; after each flight I use a syringe and access a port, actually its a fuel dot on the cowl surface and withdraw the collected oil from the tank; usually about 7 to 8cc's; as far as the 3 tubes, one is attached to the engine vent nipple, 2nd goes to the access port mounted on the underside of the cowl, and the 3rd is a vent to the air and acts as an overflow, this tube exits out the bottom of the cowl near the exhaust exit.

Doug.

David M in UK

I like your idea a lot...[8D]

Thinking about it, a small cc fuel tank is the ideal answer.

What do you think of your model...? Underpowered...?

I had the motor spare after changing my mind and not fitting it to the original model I got it for due to it coming out at 14lb, a bit too much for a 15cc 4 stroke I thought. I got the Thunderbolt to wrap around the RCV as it was the upper engine size Hanger9 recommended for the model. I see loads of people on this thread have ignored that advice...[sm=72_72.gif] Each to their own and good luck to them I say.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

David;

Yes, I think my plane is underpowered, I like the RCV 91CD, great egine and reliable without a doubt and easy to start, just not enough pull for this bird, I have a few more props to try out, I'm thinking a 13X6 or 13X8 2 Blade, or 12X8 3 blade; even thought of 14X4, some props or the same size seem to get more RPM's ; I wish the RCV 130CD was available when I built this plane.

Doug.

David M in UK

I can't understand why yours would seem underpowered Doug. If I full throttle mine it bats about the sky so unscale it's unreal. I'm wondering whether there could be something wrong with your engine..? I run Coolpower 10% through mine, but that's as recommended I think, 10% nitro for the RCV.

http://www.rcvengines.com/rcv91cd.htm

RCV recommend 13x6 to 14x7 2 bladers....

The video below is the engine powering a YT International 72" 13lb Spitfire...high revs and plenty of level speed, I just didn't like the way it falls off the top of loops so upped the cc in my Spitfire. My Thunderbolt scales 10lb.

http://frettavefur.net/video/yt/spitfire.wmv

Cheers....David

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

David;

I'm running 10% Fuel per recommendations; the engine had a lot more power last year, I must admit that I havn't flown it a lot, the fuel may be old, etc; I havn't given up on it, I plan to try a fresh can of fuel and use a 13X6 2 Blade prop to get the rev's up, I bench tested that prop and was getting 10K+ out of it, but havn't flown the plane with that prop yet, the other props were averaging 8 to 9K.

Doug.

David M in UK

What I have noticed with mine Doug, is that I've had to keep on top of the main needle for about the first 20 flights. The power did seem to keep dropping off a tad after the next 5 or so flights and I'm now probably running the main needle 1/2 a turn further in than during the maiden. That seems to have levelled off now though..

I do think I've developed a slight throttling flat spot though that could be the plug, I'm living with it as the engine seems happy apart from that.

Another thing I'm always thinking about with these hotter running 4 strokes running pressure is the deteriation of the fuel tubing on the muffler nipple. Slight stiffening of the tubing or a crack due to heat and top end power is lost first followed by cut outs on climbout. I found that out with another model..! I tend now to snip 1/4" off about every 15 flights.

I should think running my 14x7 prop, I'm nearer the 8-9K rpm top end. I've got a 14x6 in the box I keep meaning to try but don't want to take the other one off..! I just keep refueling and taking off again. If the torque on takeoff or during turns was an issue, then I'd have probably tried it by now.

Cheers.....

RACJ

Got to cowl and cannot get it to fit evenly(gap spacing)all the way around.Haven't seen anyone else with a problem here so It's probably me, so anyone,what is secret to install cowl with decent spacing all around?? THANKS

Ichy

Mine does not fit that great either. I glued plastic washers on the inside of the cowl under each screw hole as a stand off.

brewmanbrett

Yeah, I'd guess the problem stems from your cowl mounting blocks. Mine isn't beautiful, but once it's in the air it looks great! I used the cowl snaps from PSP manufacturing, and due to my mounting blocks they actually cause my cowl to pop out in those 4 spots, but the benefit of eliminating the engine vibration from rounding out the holes in the cowl is more than worth it.

RACJ

I'll try the plastic washers. I maidened this plane today. 5 wonderful flights. Only problem was taxi out for take off one retact came loose,tuned sideways and plane tipped on nose but not a scratch . Pulled retract and put strut in and tightened the brass screw inside. After flying this plane I forgot how cowl looks.What a sweet airplane.

Ichy

"Mine isn't beautiful...." Is too.... is too!

Racj, it is definitly a fun plane. I have been fighting a "glitch" and have now fixed it. Also has a smoke system in it. Great fun!