Kyosho PT17 Stearman
12-04-2002 | 11:34 PM
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From: Mesa,
AZ
Kyosho PT17 Stearman
I am thinking about buying a Kyosho PT 17 Stearman, and looking for input from anyone who is familiar with this model. I have a TT60 trainer, a 40 Great Planes Cub with floats, and a 4 * 60. Any help would be appreciated.
12-05-2002 | 02:29 PM
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From: Cedar Park,
TX
Kyosho PT17 Stearman
If you use the Saito 50 or 56 you will have to grind away some of the motor mount to make it fit. It's probably worth it.
BE SURE to get the "N" struts on correctly. The longer vertical bar goes at the rear. Got this backwards on my Super Stearman a year ago. Barely could fly the plane enought to land it.
I also learned a lot about balance on that plane. It had a Magnum .46 two stroke on it. I had to put a "Heavy Hub" on the nose. I'm presently putting together the military version using the Saito .56. I expect balance to be easier.
My Super Stearman was a sweet flying plane. Slow, it flew with a nice scale performance. Fast, it was a kick-***** sport plane.
BE SURE to get the "N" struts on correctly. The longer vertical bar goes at the rear. Got this backwards on my Super Stearman a year ago. Barely could fly the plane enought to land it.
I also learned a lot about balance on that plane. It had a Magnum .46 two stroke on it. I had to put a "Heavy Hub" on the nose. I'm presently putting together the military version using the Saito .56. I expect balance to be easier.
My Super Stearman was a sweet flying plane. Slow, it flew with a nice scale performance. Fast, it was a kick-***** sport plane.
12-05-2002 | 03:11 PM
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From: Mesa,
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Kyosho PT17 Stearman
So all and all it is a good plane? Straight forward assembly and good flyer. I have built a great planes .40 size Cub with floats, and a 4 * 60 with no problems. I thought I would try an ARF this time, plus the only reasonable priced Stearman kit is from Midwest and I have read more negative coments about it than good.
12-05-2002 | 03:32 PM
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From: tel avivna, ISRAEL
Kyosho PT17 Stearman
we have 2 seagull super stearmans ,great flyers for the more exp pilot though, allways draws the crowd, both are 40 sized but we smoke them up a little ,these lanes love to fly a little faster than scale. ps i think the kysho comes from the same factory in vietnam, looked at a friends very similar only small details like landing gear and sticker diffs.
12-05-2002 | 04:58 PM
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From: Castaic, CA
Kyosho PT17 Stearman
Previous answers
I really enjoy my Kyosho Stearman. It's a lot of fun to fly and is quite aerobatic. It is easy to assemble. The decals were easy to apply and they have stayed on through 100+ flights. It is not a beginners plane to fly. It's not squirrelly but it demands your full attention. When people ask me how it flies I tell them it flies like a biplane. It has no bad stall characteristics like snapping and is easy to land. It will float in like a trainer, which is unusual for a bipe with a radial front end. It also handles well in wind or cross wind. This is probably because it is so light. Mine weights 5.25 lbs. The construction is very very good and strong except for the tail feathers. The covering on mine was good but a little loose. This was easily corrected with a heat gun.
I use a YS53 for power and an 11/7 APC prop.. It's a bit much and I normally fly at half to 2/3rds power. It balanced right at the aft balance point recommended in the addendum, with no weight required. The first flights were quite tail heavy but manageable. I put a brass spinner nut on it and that got it where I like it, still a little tail heavy.
Ground handling is real handful with mine unlike the experience of others that posted on the rivanna thread. And I haven't flown anything but tail draggers in years. It takes a fine touch on takeoff to keep it from swerving and a fine touch after landing to keep it from ground looping. maybe I got something in the landing gear screwed up. With a little concentration though it will go straight down the middle.
I didn't like a lot of the hardware (low quality) although I used most of it and haven't had any problems in a 100+ flights. I did throw away the threaded bolts for the landing gear and put in Dubro axels. I used their bolt and nuts for the struts and eventually replaced them with 4-alen screws and lock nuts. The wood screws holding the cabane struts to the fuselage kept coming loose so I replaced them with threaded 4/40 brass inserts in the fuselage and 4/40 alen screws. Putting hardwood blocks in the fuselage to accept the brass inserts was kind of a pain because of the double wall fuselage. I didn't use the heat shrink for the control rods, instead I bound and glued them, like I always do.
Make sure you get the "N" struts in the right way.
Follow the addendum for CG and control throws. I did wind up putting in more aileron throw on high rates and the recommended on low rates. The high rates turned out about right. I increased the rudder throw after a few flights and this was a mistake. Too much rudder throw causes sever pitching toward the gear and rotation in the opposite direction. It's called rudder stall.
My wheel pants were fiber glass. Don't put them on until you've made enough flights to be comfortable you will make a smooth landing every time.
On your flight questions. It will knife edge nicely with only moderate rudder input. It snap rolls easily either inside or outside. I have only been able to get a flat spin to the left and it's pretty but not real flat. I haven't been able to get it to flat spin to the right or inverted. I suspect that's because I haven't got the application of power and aileron quite right, (timing and coordination). Stall turns are good. Loop tracking is a little iffy. This is far from a pattern or IMAC plane. It's not a precession aerobat.
Now for the bad. The horizontal stab broke twice during flight. I thought is kind of weak when I built the plane but I didn't do anything about it. I only do snaps at low speed and I have avoided any other high speed violent maneuvers but it broke anyway. Both times I managed to land the plane smoothly and taxi back to the pits. God is my co-pilot. The first time the break was about 2 inches out from the fuselage and through both the leading and trailing edges on the left stab. I fixed it with carbon fiber sheet through the leading and trailing spars, both sides naturally. The second time it broke at the fuselage and took nearly full down elevator to land. Again I think the good lord was driving and I made smooth landing and taxed back in. More carbon fiber and I haven't had a problem since. I strongly recommend wire braces if you build one.
Denis
I sent another individual a response to a similar question regarding this Bipe.
Please see below on my experience:
The Kyosho Super Stearman is a very Quality kit. I was very amazed with the
Hardware that was included and the construction of all of the plywood and
balsa parts. I read a review in the Airplane Model News prior to buying mine
which helped in the decision making. I agreed with alot of their comments.
The manual is a little cryptic and they provide a supplement to the manual.
Make sure you read the supplement a couple of times over to make sure you
understand everything. I made notes in the manual from the insert. I guess
the Japanese translation didn't come out to clear. The assembly I would say
is Easy, not real easy but anyone that has experience building ARF's can
build this model.
The covering is a bit wrinkled and loose in many areas. I used a sealing iron
on all the covered parts prior to starting any assembly. I think they used
Ultracote on this model. The covering on it is very Professional and Scale
like.
The decals are pretty much a stick on, very nice easy to apply. The STARS are
the iron on type. The don't give you enough of the Big Stars to apply as
illustrated in the picture. I made some additional stars out of Missile Red
self adhesive type covering.
The kind you would use to patch your planes with.
As far as hardware with the kit. Although all the parts were good quality I
did replace some of them. they are as follows:
1. Cabane and wing struts screws and nuts - These would probably come lose
during flight - I replaced them with 3mm hex screws and locking nuts.
2. Tail wheel - I don't like wire tail wheel, I replaced it with a spring
rudder control tail wheel assembly.
3.Engine Mount Bolts - Again, would vibrate loose, I used locking nuts and
hex bolts.
4. Foam Tires, some people replace these, they can become warped from sitting
long periods of time.
Other than that I used all the other parts.
Construction, I recall having a problem with the Joining wire that connect
the two elevators. Because I cannot drill straight enough to make sure they
are even. If I could have done this over again I would have, laid the
elevators of a flat table, put the joiner wire on top and made a mark. Cut a
notch in each of the elevators then, inserted the joiner wire into the notch
and filled the slots with epoxy.
The Aileron Servo Bays in the wings are a tight fit for Standard size Servos.
I did use Standard Futaba S3003 servos, but it was a very close fit. I would
have used mini servos for the wing Bays for the Ailerons.
The wheel pants are made of an ABS plastic, they are not fiberglass, at least
in my Kit. As far as the cowl. I thought the cowl was pretty easy to work
with. Big cowl, easy to make marks for the engine head and needle Valve. The
engine I am using is a Thunder Tiger Pro .46 with a Pitts Muffler. Good fit
in this plane. I did start with a OS FX .46 but for some reason I could not
get this motor to run stable enough in this plane. I think it had something
to do with how the fuel tank was positioned in relationship to the needle
valve of this OS FX Motor. I have read a OS .52 FS Surpass works really well
in this plane.
Overall the model fit together like a puzzle. Everything fit really well.
Even the struts are pre bent and perfectly fit. Pilot holes are already
drilled in the wings and fuse for this alignment as well.
The Balancing question. I thought this was pretty straight forward. The
INSERT again makes a correction from the manual 4 inches from the leading
edge on the Upper wing. I balanced it according to this and I thought it was
on the money. My plane was very tail heavy and had to add quite a bit of nose
weight, like 3 ounces...
Flying the model, Ground handling is very nice for this Bipe. Very stable not
squirly at all. The take offs were really nice. Gently breaking the ground
and no surprises going airborne. Landings have a bounce to this plane. The
manual also indicates this. Its mainly just getting used to the landing on
this plane because its approach is fast like a sport model with very little
drag.
On turns and rolls and loops the plane tracks very nicely. Its fun to fly. I
have not done any hammer heads with this plane yet. On inverted flights the
plane wants to climb a bit. I didn't make any adjustments, but did read that
the upper wing needed to be shimmed with a washer to increase the incidence
to correct this. To me it not that big of deal...
As I said before, this is a great model. Its constructed very well and very
light but Sturdy. Really Sturdy... Its a pricey ARF but well worth the money.
If this one dies I will certainly buy another!
Good Luck
Frank
I really enjoy my Kyosho Stearman. It's a lot of fun to fly and is quite aerobatic. It is easy to assemble. The decals were easy to apply and they have stayed on through 100+ flights. It is not a beginners plane to fly. It's not squirrelly but it demands your full attention. When people ask me how it flies I tell them it flies like a biplane. It has no bad stall characteristics like snapping and is easy to land. It will float in like a trainer, which is unusual for a bipe with a radial front end. It also handles well in wind or cross wind. This is probably because it is so light. Mine weights 5.25 lbs. The construction is very very good and strong except for the tail feathers. The covering on mine was good but a little loose. This was easily corrected with a heat gun.
I use a YS53 for power and an 11/7 APC prop.. It's a bit much and I normally fly at half to 2/3rds power. It balanced right at the aft balance point recommended in the addendum, with no weight required. The first flights were quite tail heavy but manageable. I put a brass spinner nut on it and that got it where I like it, still a little tail heavy.
Ground handling is real handful with mine unlike the experience of others that posted on the rivanna thread. And I haven't flown anything but tail draggers in years. It takes a fine touch on takeoff to keep it from swerving and a fine touch after landing to keep it from ground looping. maybe I got something in the landing gear screwed up. With a little concentration though it will go straight down the middle.
I didn't like a lot of the hardware (low quality) although I used most of it and haven't had any problems in a 100+ flights. I did throw away the threaded bolts for the landing gear and put in Dubro axels. I used their bolt and nuts for the struts and eventually replaced them with 4-alen screws and lock nuts. The wood screws holding the cabane struts to the fuselage kept coming loose so I replaced them with threaded 4/40 brass inserts in the fuselage and 4/40 alen screws. Putting hardwood blocks in the fuselage to accept the brass inserts was kind of a pain because of the double wall fuselage. I didn't use the heat shrink for the control rods, instead I bound and glued them, like I always do.
Make sure you get the "N" struts in the right way.
Follow the addendum for CG and control throws. I did wind up putting in more aileron throw on high rates and the recommended on low rates. The high rates turned out about right. I increased the rudder throw after a few flights and this was a mistake. Too much rudder throw causes sever pitching toward the gear and rotation in the opposite direction. It's called rudder stall.
My wheel pants were fiber glass. Don't put them on until you've made enough flights to be comfortable you will make a smooth landing every time.
On your flight questions. It will knife edge nicely with only moderate rudder input. It snap rolls easily either inside or outside. I have only been able to get a flat spin to the left and it's pretty but not real flat. I haven't been able to get it to flat spin to the right or inverted. I suspect that's because I haven't got the application of power and aileron quite right, (timing and coordination). Stall turns are good. Loop tracking is a little iffy. This is far from a pattern or IMAC plane. It's not a precession aerobat.
Now for the bad. The horizontal stab broke twice during flight. I thought is kind of weak when I built the plane but I didn't do anything about it. I only do snaps at low speed and I have avoided any other high speed violent maneuvers but it broke anyway. Both times I managed to land the plane smoothly and taxi back to the pits. God is my co-pilot. The first time the break was about 2 inches out from the fuselage and through both the leading and trailing edges on the left stab. I fixed it with carbon fiber sheet through the leading and trailing spars, both sides naturally. The second time it broke at the fuselage and took nearly full down elevator to land. Again I think the good lord was driving and I made smooth landing and taxed back in. More carbon fiber and I haven't had a problem since. I strongly recommend wire braces if you build one.
Denis
I sent another individual a response to a similar question regarding this Bipe.
Please see below on my experience:
The Kyosho Super Stearman is a very Quality kit. I was very amazed with the
Hardware that was included and the construction of all of the plywood and
balsa parts. I read a review in the Airplane Model News prior to buying mine
which helped in the decision making. I agreed with alot of their comments.
The manual is a little cryptic and they provide a supplement to the manual.
Make sure you read the supplement a couple of times over to make sure you
understand everything. I made notes in the manual from the insert. I guess
the Japanese translation didn't come out to clear. The assembly I would say
is Easy, not real easy but anyone that has experience building ARF's can
build this model.
The covering is a bit wrinkled and loose in many areas. I used a sealing iron
on all the covered parts prior to starting any assembly. I think they used
Ultracote on this model. The covering on it is very Professional and Scale
like.
The decals are pretty much a stick on, very nice easy to apply. The STARS are
the iron on type. The don't give you enough of the Big Stars to apply as
illustrated in the picture. I made some additional stars out of Missile Red
self adhesive type covering.
The kind you would use to patch your planes with.
As far as hardware with the kit. Although all the parts were good quality I
did replace some of them. they are as follows:
1. Cabane and wing struts screws and nuts - These would probably come lose
during flight - I replaced them with 3mm hex screws and locking nuts.
2. Tail wheel - I don't like wire tail wheel, I replaced it with a spring
rudder control tail wheel assembly.
3.Engine Mount Bolts - Again, would vibrate loose, I used locking nuts and
hex bolts.
4. Foam Tires, some people replace these, they can become warped from sitting
long periods of time.
Other than that I used all the other parts.
Construction, I recall having a problem with the Joining wire that connect
the two elevators. Because I cannot drill straight enough to make sure they
are even. If I could have done this over again I would have, laid the
elevators of a flat table, put the joiner wire on top and made a mark. Cut a
notch in each of the elevators then, inserted the joiner wire into the notch
and filled the slots with epoxy.
The Aileron Servo Bays in the wings are a tight fit for Standard size Servos.
I did use Standard Futaba S3003 servos, but it was a very close fit. I would
have used mini servos for the wing Bays for the Ailerons.
The wheel pants are made of an ABS plastic, they are not fiberglass, at least
in my Kit. As far as the cowl. I thought the cowl was pretty easy to work
with. Big cowl, easy to make marks for the engine head and needle Valve. The
engine I am using is a Thunder Tiger Pro .46 with a Pitts Muffler. Good fit
in this plane. I did start with a OS FX .46 but for some reason I could not
get this motor to run stable enough in this plane. I think it had something
to do with how the fuel tank was positioned in relationship to the needle
valve of this OS FX Motor. I have read a OS .52 FS Surpass works really well
in this plane.
Overall the model fit together like a puzzle. Everything fit really well.
Even the struts are pre bent and perfectly fit. Pilot holes are already
drilled in the wings and fuse for this alignment as well.
The Balancing question. I thought this was pretty straight forward. The
INSERT again makes a correction from the manual 4 inches from the leading
edge on the Upper wing. I balanced it according to this and I thought it was
on the money. My plane was very tail heavy and had to add quite a bit of nose
weight, like 3 ounces...
Flying the model, Ground handling is very nice for this Bipe. Very stable not
squirly at all. The take offs were really nice. Gently breaking the ground
and no surprises going airborne. Landings have a bounce to this plane. The
manual also indicates this. Its mainly just getting used to the landing on
this plane because its approach is fast like a sport model with very little
drag.
On turns and rolls and loops the plane tracks very nicely. Its fun to fly. I
have not done any hammer heads with this plane yet. On inverted flights the
plane wants to climb a bit. I didn't make any adjustments, but did read that
the upper wing needed to be shimmed with a washer to increase the incidence
to correct this. To me it not that big of deal...
As I said before, this is a great model. Its constructed very well and very
light but Sturdy. Really Sturdy... Its a pricey ARF but well worth the money.
If this one dies I will certainly buy another!
Good Luck
Frank
12-05-2002 | 05:33 PM
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From: Mesa,
AZ
Stearman
Thanks for your detailed response to my question, you helped make up my mind. I am going to get the PT-17. Since I don't have alot of experience I think I will get out the trusty trainer cord for the first couple flights just to be safe.
Jeff
Jeff
12-06-2002 | 08:27 PM
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From: st charles, MO,
Kyosho PT17 Stearman
Jeff,
Have you seem my website on the PT-17?
go to http://www.geocities.com/jbrundt2/N2S-1.html
If you need any further clarification please email me.
Jeff
Have you seem my website on the PT-17?
go to http://www.geocities.com/jbrundt2/N2S-1.html
If you need any further clarification please email me.
Jeff
12-09-2002 | 04:11 PM
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From: Cedar Park,
TX
Kyosho PT17 Stearman
Sorry to be so long in responding. I've been sick. The CG was correct in the instructions, but I had to add weight to the nose to achieve it. Using a 4-stroke engine will probably make it a lot easier to balance.
Someone mentioned the foam wheels. He's right about their getting flat spots. That's not the only problem. Landing in a cross-wind puts sideways pressure on them and they flex far enough to contact the wheel pants and/or the landing gear and this is like jamming on the brakes - instant nose-over.
On the Pt-17 that I'm putting together, I'm going to round off the corners on the landing gear (no wheel pants). I think this will cut down on the tendency to nose over. I'm also going to put on stiffer wheels.
One thing I'm doing is possibly a bad idea. I'm going to mount the motor (Saito .56) inverted. The disadvantage to this is that in a nose-over the plane will strike the runway with the valve covers. The advantages are that it will be prettier, and the CG will be lower, which may reduce nose-overs. It also will eliminate (or greatly reduce) the weight needed in the left wing to balance laterally, giving me a slightly lighter plane. I thought it would be done by now, but a week of being sick combined with all the Christmas shopping and decorating has put the plane on the back burner.
Someone mentioned the foam wheels. He's right about their getting flat spots. That's not the only problem. Landing in a cross-wind puts sideways pressure on them and they flex far enough to contact the wheel pants and/or the landing gear and this is like jamming on the brakes - instant nose-over.
On the Pt-17 that I'm putting together, I'm going to round off the corners on the landing gear (no wheel pants). I think this will cut down on the tendency to nose over. I'm also going to put on stiffer wheels.
One thing I'm doing is possibly a bad idea. I'm going to mount the motor (Saito .56) inverted. The disadvantage to this is that in a nose-over the plane will strike the runway with the valve covers. The advantages are that it will be prettier, and the CG will be lower, which may reduce nose-overs. It also will eliminate (or greatly reduce) the weight needed in the left wing to balance laterally, giving me a slightly lighter plane. I thought it would be done by now, but a week of being sick combined with all the Christmas shopping and decorating has put the plane on the back burner.
12-09-2002 | 11:40 PM
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From: STEPHENS CITY,
VA
stearman
I've flown both planes for club members, both fly well. The super stearman has a symmetrical wing and the PT 17 has a semi-symmetrical wing. The Super Stearman is a better flying airplane but the looks of the PT 17 in the air is really cool. you can't go wrong with either. 
12-11-2002 | 03:00 AM
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From: Mesa,
AZ
PT 17
Thanks to everyone who answered my questions, no douubt I am going to get one... sounds like alot of fun plus I have never seen one out flying, so it will be something different.
Jeff
Jeff
06-13-2004 | 04:28 PM
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From: keystone heights,
FL
RE: Kyosho PT17 Stearman
has anyone tried putting a larger 4 stroke than 52 size in a pt-17? mine has an os52 and it seems to be very underpowered especially given its weight. my latest prop is a 12x5. i have a sanyo fs 82-18.5 oz with muffler 1.5 hp 60 size case. weight is no problem since i had to put 3 oz on the front. suggestions? thanks
06-13-2004 | 04:47 PM
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From: keystone heights,
FL
RE: Kyosho PT17 Stearman
also, has anyone had any luck locating matching covering for the PT 17? Mine has a ground ding on the wing and the closest that I could come to matching is not close. ruins an otherwise beautiful airplane. Need info on replacement parts and need to match the motor mounts since I may reengine it and do not want to grind and redrill the originals in case I want to switch back. I cannot believe that a plane that is so beautifully engineered and well built has so few replacement parts and unmatchable covering. Have been dealing with Tower and maybe am looking in the wrong place. thanks
06-13-2004 | 06:26 PM
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From: Castaic, CA
RE: Kyosho PT17 Stearman
As I said mine has a YS53. Now that ain't much bigger than an OS52 but it's bunchs more power. I would call the plane overpowered but that's the way I like them. I required no weight but after a couple of tail heavy flights I put a brass spinner nut on it.
I don't think the covering problem is Tower, I think it's Kyosho. They like sticky back paper and I doubt it can be matched. I couldn't even match the white
Denis
I don't think the covering problem is Tower, I think it's Kyosho. They like sticky back paper and I doubt it can be matched. I couldn't even match the white
Denis
06-13-2004 | 07:52 PM
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From: st charles, MO,
RE: Kyosho PT17 Stearman
ORIGINAL: drvwaymech
also, has anyone had any luck locating matching covering for the PT 17? Mine has a ground ding on the wing and the closest that I could come to matching is not close. ruins an otherwise beautiful airplane. Need info on replacement parts and need to match the motor mounts since I may reengine it and do not want to grind and redrill the originals in case I want to switch back. I cannot believe that a plane that is so beautifully engineered and well built has so few replacement parts and unmatchable covering. Have been dealing with Tower and maybe am looking in the wrong place. thanks
also, has anyone had any luck locating matching covering for the PT 17? Mine has a ground ding on the wing and the closest that I could come to matching is not close. ruins an otherwise beautiful airplane. Need info on replacement parts and need to match the motor mounts since I may reengine it and do not want to grind and redrill the originals in case I want to switch back. I cannot believe that a plane that is so beautifully engineered and well built has so few replacement parts and unmatchable covering. Have been dealing with Tower and maybe am looking in the wrong place. thanks
If you want visit my site in the link a few posts up.
Jeff
06-13-2004 | 07:55 PM
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From: st charles, MO,
RE: Kyosho PT17 Stearman
ORIGINAL: djlyon
I don't think the covering problem is Tower, I think it's Kyosho. They like sticky back paper and I doubt it can be matched. I couldn't even match the white
Denis
I don't think the covering problem is Tower, I think it's Kyosho. They like sticky back paper and I doubt it can be matched. I couldn't even match the white
Denis
Jeff
06-13-2004 | 07:58 PM
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From: st charles, MO,
RE: Kyosho PT17 Stearman
ORIGINAL: drvwaymech
has anyone tried putting a larger 4 stroke than 52 size in a pt-17? mine has an os52 and it seems to be very underpowered especially given its weight. my latest prop is a 12x5. i have a sanyo fs 82-18.5 oz with muffler 1.5 hp 60 size case. weight is no problem since i had to put 3 oz on the front. suggestions? thanks
has anyone tried putting a larger 4 stroke than 52 size in a pt-17? mine has an os52 and it seems to be very underpowered especially given its weight. my latest prop is a 12x5. i have a sanyo fs 82-18.5 oz with muffler 1.5 hp 60 size case. weight is no problem since i had to put 3 oz on the front. suggestions? thanks
hth
Jeff
06-13-2004 | 10:45 PM
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RE: Kyosho PT17 Stearman
I think the problem is the 12x5 prop. Get something a little smaller ... you will have more speed. Also are you properly tuned? I have seen PT17's doing a decently short take off with an OS52.
06-14-2004 | 07:37 AM
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From: st charles, MO,
RE: Kyosho PT17 Stearman
ORIGINAL: drvwaymech
my latest prop is a 12x5.suggestions? thanks
my latest prop is a 12x5.suggestions? thanks
Jeff
Now i have ideas for my Peashooter ... maybe I'll spray my fuse yellow too.
09-04-2004 | 04:13 PM
#23
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From: Stewartstown,
PA
RE: Kyosho PT17 Stearman
I saw your web site and the plane is awesome. What a nice job! I'm currently flying the Super Stearman and just found the PT-17 that's been sitting for a while in a small hobby shop. I'm looking for any advice you may have on the mock radial construction. There's no addendum with my kit like the Super Stearman and the only real difference that I can see is the engine.
Thanks in advance.
Steve Scott
Thanks in advance.
Steve Scott
09-04-2004 | 05:37 PM
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From: Mesa,
AZ
RE: Kyosho PT17 Stearman
Here are some pics of mine, This is my favorite plane in my hangar!!! I would like to have another arf in the box just to set on the shelf in case something happens to this one.
A tip on the radial when you glue the two halves together, there isn't much space left to trim down with out trimming away part of the "radial" it's self. What I did to remedy that is sprayed expandable foam insulation up inside the hollow areas, then it expands and fills in all the "gaps". It also did wonders to help make the "dummy" radial a little more substantial. The best part is no extra weight. As for the rest, I used the supplied aluminum tubes and wires. It took longer to do it than the rest of the plane I think, but it looks good I think. If you want any other pis of the radial let me know and I can take a couple more close ups.
Jeff
A tip on the radial when you glue the two halves together, there isn't much space left to trim down with out trimming away part of the "radial" it's self. What I did to remedy that is sprayed expandable foam insulation up inside the hollow areas, then it expands and fills in all the "gaps". It also did wonders to help make the "dummy" radial a little more substantial. The best part is no extra weight. As for the rest, I used the supplied aluminum tubes and wires. It took longer to do it than the rest of the plane I think, but it looks good I think. If you want any other pis of the radial let me know and I can take a couple more close ups.
Jeff
09-04-2004 | 08:50 PM
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From: Stewartstown,
PA
RE: Kyosho PT17 Stearman
Jeff,
Thanks for the info.......Just a couple more questions........What pilot figure did you use and what engine? I've got a Saito 45S in the SS and it works quite well with a 13 X 4 APC turning 9000 RPM. That prop was recommended and I haven't tried anything else. For the PT-17, I've got to get a new engine, so any suggestions would be helpful.
Your crew chief looks mighty happy!
Take care,
Steve
Thanks for the info.......Just a couple more questions........What pilot figure did you use and what engine? I've got a Saito 45S in the SS and it works quite well with a 13 X 4 APC turning 9000 RPM. That prop was recommended and I haven't tried anything else. For the PT-17, I've got to get a new engine, so any suggestions would be helpful.
Your crew chief looks mighty happy!
Take care,
Steve
