Anything I should watch out for. Someone mentioned reversing the landing gear. Should I do this? Thanks

Yes definetly reverse the landing gear. It is a great flying little plane that you should realy enjoy. Mounting the engine can be a little bit of a payne because the engine compartment is pretty small. Also seal the ailerons it makes them much more effective.

You will really enjoy that plane!! It is a little tight in the engine area and radio area, but worth the trouble......I flew mine this past weekend for the first time and shooting landings with it is a hoot!!




Bill

Beside reversing the gear, you might want to save yourself a lot of frustration and open the bottom of the engine compartment up (removing the lip) so it is flush with the inside of the sides of the nose. A Dremel sanding drum works great for this, and it allows easier mounting of the engine/mount assembly to the engine mount runners.

Also, if you're using an OS 40 or 46, consider getting a Heavy Hub to put inside the spinner, or the proper size aluminum spinner to balance the model. I had to do this on two of these planes, with 3 different engines: OS .46 FX, OS .46 LA, and an OS .52 FS. Have fun... It's a great flying plane.

Total fustration , mounting the stupid engine is a paine, some strange words came out from my mouth that day.

Use the outer nirod that is installed in the plane. Instead of using the inner nirod use the 30" long 2-56 solid wire that is threaded on one end.

Can you give me more info on opening the bottom lip on the engine compartment?

I have this plane - and it was one nice ARF to assemble... I didn't remove the lip on the engine compartment (and it's only optional, just makes installation a little easier). To do it, just take a dremel sander (or a knife) and trim the 'lip' so it's even with the fuse sides. Use a sanding block to make it flush with the vertical fuselage sides.

I used an OS 52 in mine and could install it pretty easily (also with a fueling valve, mounted in the location shown in the booklet).

Good luck!

Salty,

What swill said!

I ran into a minor problem. I epoxy the wood blocks to the plastic aileron covers. Waited 24 hours to complete the installation. The two blocks popped off. Last night I roughed the plastic. Hopefully that will hold.

I used CyA, and then the screws provided that help hold the blocks to the covers. Don't count on the glue alone... Use the screws.

Yea, I roughened up the inside with sandpaper then used the epoxy. But I have to go with Damnathius on using the screws.

I wish I had of swapped the engine mount screws with some allen head ones. If you haven't put your engine in yet, you may want to do that. Makes it alot easier to get the screws out when the engine is installed.

Loyd

I took 3/32 plywood and cut them the size of the plastic aileron hatch. I cut out holes for the servo so it would be out in the open and then I used the same mounting screws to hold this plate on. I covered the hatch with white Ultra cote and it is bullerproof and don't look like it is out of place.

Well I got the blocks to stick after roughing the plastic up. I should have known they would not hold on a slick surface.

My objective is to have the epoxy sufficiently hold the blocks, then the screws would add additional support.

Thanks for the input.

khlash99,
I've flown mine all of last year. Two problems that I have found;

One - The landing gear block needs to be reinforced with fiberglass. My 2nd landing with the wheel pants on was slightly off the runway. I ran into tall grass just as the airplane was stopping and the landing gear ripped off! The landing gear block was made out of wood not ply, and the blind nuts that were used had long points that pre-split the wood. I've replaced it with birch ply and had no problem.

Two - The plastic aileron hatches are cracking around the mounting screws. I'm replacing these with lite-ply.

I love this plane!

John

That's funny... My objective was for the CyA to hold long enough to drill and install the screws!

Unfortunately, the ASP .52 I first used in my Rascal did not like to
idle too well inverted. I then installed this MPI glow driver, but I
got some radio glitches with it. Went with a OS .52 and no more
problems. I also like using cable to the throttle instead of that
weird bend you have to put on a wire. Hey khlash99, are you
flying out of Bandera field there in S.A? I flew there as a guest
last month and talk about a short approach! I almost got into the
telephone lines at the west end!! Good luck with yours, and post
some pics.

I put an OS 48 4s in mine. The heavy hub was a good help with the balance. It was achieved without weights by putting the battery and receiver under the dash area. I tried to get the battery over the tank but it wouldn't fit so I stacked it and the rx just behind the tank. It balanced as advertised, right on 3 3/8.

I set the throws and now have to get into the air.

I'm glad the Heavy Hub worked out for you, Salty. As mentioned in another thread, I have my throws maxed. It's still a docile plane even at those settings.

Give us a report after you fly it! Oh, did you turn the landing gear around?

I did turn the gear around. Actually put it on both ways to see how it would look. I was surprised the gear worked with either direction.

Has anyone set up flaps on this one? I was thinking of playing with them but not sure if I should or not.

I have a rascal 40 hanging in my living room completly ready for flight since 6 months, fit with an os52 surpass.
After reading all your coments on that bird I feel I will go with it soon to the field
I remember the frustrating job of putting that .52 with the fueling valve and the remote ignition in that little nose.

I was ready for flight when i received a mail from SIG advertising me there was a problem with some aluminium wing joining wires, I checked mine it was from the bad serie. Sig delivered me a new one 15 days later but in the meantime the bird was already hanging at the living room ceiling. I'll give a chance to that bird soon, it look to be a great flier.

What was the prob with the joiner and how can we tell if we have an old one or not?

I don't have the mail anymore and my english is not very good.
A serie of kit have been released in the middle of last year with a main aluminium joining wire (the big one giving the diedral, not the pin) made in to soft aluminium. they asked the owner to make a simple test.
take your joining wire, bend it with your hands (sligthly), if it return in his original state, OK, if it remain bended, WRONG.