ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

No experience with a Saito, but there should have been some shims with the spinner allowing you to install what you need to get the right I/D for the prop shaft.

bemeson

Inside the bag that came with the spinner is a brass bushing. It will fit the shaft of the Saito 150.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I think you do. Also, there are more than one for the Saito 150, some are an older style. I don't recall what the difference is, probably a slight difference in length. Tru-Turn is the way to go, I always get the double-locking style. Works great on big four-strokes, which can sometimes backfire during starting. I believe I've listed the adaptor parts here somewhere in this thread. If I can find it I'll repost the part number. I'd still recommend that you talk with the folks at Tru-Turn as well.

Jim

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I should say I think you do - IF - you're looking for a secure, solid assembly that stays put. And I'm assuming the parts you are missing are the ones that hold the aluminum cone part down onto the plate.

I listed the Tru-Turn part in another thread for a Monocoupe, but it's that same setup. This was the post:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_92...anchor/tm.htm#

And here's a quick quote from that post. I removed some irrelevent stuff:
-
I used the Tru-Turn Double-jam nut setup (for a Saito 150) inside a 1" Prop Hub.. I've got a power starter and I use it on my Saito 150, This double-jam nut setup holds the Hub beautifully when I use the starter, and backfires won't kick the prop off. Of course, once an engine is tuned in where it's going to be, backfires don't really happen much, but it sure helps with a Big, new Saito.

The double-Jam nut adaptor kit was part # TT-0823-A
-

Jim

gsxphil

Thanks for the thorough information Jim.  I will have to order this now.  Think Im going to maiden it without spinner, cowling, and whellpants and then go from there.  Appreciate everyones  help.  I did find the Tru-Turn part on their website and on Tower Hobbies. 

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

[8D]

Jim

gsxphil

I have another question.  I have 5 Hitec HS645 MG servos for flight controls and a Futaba 3305 for throttle.  I am now so confused about batteries.  This may not be the right place for this question but it is for my GSS, .lol.  I purchased a brand new NiMh 2000 mah Hydrimax battery for the plane , but reading a ton of things on the forums Im not sure it this battery will suffice.  Im using an Hitec Aurora 9 radio with Optima 7 receiver.  Can someone help me out here with this battery dilema.  

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

I have a 2200mah Life battery in mine...What you have will work, but after about three flights I would keep a close eye on the voltage. Is it a 6 volt NiMh?

Charlie P.

Should be fine. I'm running 6V on a NiMH 2000 mah pack with Futaba S9001 servos (72 in-oz - same as your HS645 MG). I get four 15 minute flights as still have power left over.

gsxphil

I do have a 6.0volt NiMh in the plane. I just got worried reading that NiMh cant deliver the current necessary for the servos and cause you to have a "brownout" on your receiver. The Optima receiver has a feature where you can power the receiver only with a seperate power source than the one for the servo's. Im thinking of doing this for safety. Thanks for the help. I now have a bit more confidence in the setup.

Joystick TX

I have two of the NiMh 2200, 4.8V, batteries with dual switches in my GSS and have had no problems in over two years and 1,800 flights. Ialways charge them just before I fly, they get topped offon the way to the field.

JoeMamma

Just before each flight, I grab my Pro-ESV Tester and plug her into my plane. I bought it about three years ago and can't live without it. It will certainly give you peace of mind if you are worried about battery condition.

By pressing either one button or two buttons simultaneously, you can put either a .5, 1.0 or a whopping 1.5 amp load directly on your battery pack. When under a load, if my 4.8 volt packs hold at about 5.4 volts I know I'll have a safe flight. My 6.0 volt packs hold at about 6.5 volts. If these voltages are lower, either my battery pack has gone bad, or I simply forgot to charge them up.

A nice feature with the Pro-ESV is there is no installed battery to worry about. It uses your planes battery pack for power. I believe it will work on batteries up to 20 volts.

Check it out at http://www.radiosouthrc.com/ProESVTester.htm

Joe M.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

The beauty of the 6.0 Volt battery pack application is that these systems are designed to work under most circumstances without browning out, unless voltage drops below a critical point.
A 4.8 Volt pack will normally suffice with no proplems at all. When you get into larger planes with a number of heavy-draw servos, you're moving toward the danger zone, but even that typically isn't enough, unless you've run them way down or have at least several servos with that kind of draw.
Anything you do to move away from this helps the situation. If you're running 4.8 Volt packs, you can run a larger (more mAh) pack and that is a significant move in the right direction, it will help.
I use larger mAh packs (always above 2000 mAh), PLUS I step up to 6 Volt packs. The thing to remember with these systems (I don't need to name any names, Futaba and JR and probably several others brown out when their RX reads a drop below 3.0 volts, approximately.) is that they experience their brownouts at a low Voltage, so I start out by moving my beginning voltage another 1.2 volts higher than the 4.8 pack by using the 6.0, that's just common sense. It then must drop farther to brown out. Plus you get an extra battery in the pack. Upsizing the pack boosts your reserves even more.
If you're running a gasser, remember that your gasser packs usually like to be 4.8 volts, but they usually are separate from your Rx system, unless you're running voltage regulators, etc. (in which case this stuff wouldn't be an issue) and dispersing voltage from a much larger battery style.
If you're running a large plane that isn't just loaded with heavy-draw servos, but has a couple, you can boost the individual items to prevent them from drawing down the system prematurely. Say you have an 8611A servo on your Rudder. You simply install a "Y" in the lead to that servo, and plug in a separate battery pack in the other leg of the "Y", and that servo will draw its voltage from that battery pack FIRST, leaving your system voltage alone until it draws down that pack.
These are all basic, inexpensive, yet effective measures you can take to "beef-up" your system and prevent brownouts. The simplest thing you can do is to maintain your batteries, charge them and cycle them as they should be, and just make sure you've paid attention to detail. Most brownouts are the result of guys taking the chance and flying that one last flight when they knew their voltage wasn't up to it, or failing to charge the plane, or even worse - failing to check the voltage before flying. They'll never admit it, they rarely ever do.
The simple fact is that these radios won't brown out if their voltage is above a basic voltage level, and that brownout voltage level is FAR below the safe threshold for somebody to be flying a model. With a robust battery pack, you can fly a good number of flights and have carefree days at the field. With a field charger, life is good.

Jim

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Where you get into trouble with the AA NiMh's is when you try to power your flight pack AND a gasser ignition with a single battery. Doesn't matter 4.8 or 6v. I have the exact setup you're talking about (Aurora/645MG) in a gas 3D plane that should have bitten the dust with all the experimenting I did on it trying to get that setup to work. The fancy Aurora with receiver battery voltage telemetry is the only reason I was able to figure out what was going on without dumping it in.

Nitro engine shouldn't have any trouble at all on your setup. Something to consider if you wanted to beef your system up a little, would be to solder a second set of output wires to your single battery and run a second switch to the receiver from that for switch redundancy, as well as a little boost in available amperage. Best setup is to add a second battery, on it's own switch, powering the receiver directly if you have room. If not, maybe through a Y harness on the rudder servo.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

As a rule, the gasser should have its own pack, and the gasser pack should be 4.8 Volts, as recommended by most of the factories for the gassers. I'd never try to run the two off of the same pack. Why add draw to your RX pack when you don't have to?

Jim

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I'm not the only one doing this single pack thing rather successfully. That "rule" is broken/ignored by more every day thanks to advances made in electronics that I'll never understand. The reason would be weight - which is admittedly not much of a factor on this plane. It's more the 8-9lb pound DLE 20 power to 10-11lb 30cc 3D capable stuff. This stuff is some rather serious fun to fly (even if you never fly 3D) - but it MUST be kept light. Do as you wish. I'm not here to argue the point. I was just tossing it out as an idea for those that haven't considered it. There's plenty available to read on the topic.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I'm not really arguing with you either, ahicks. In fact, the point I've been pushing is that these brownouts are far less frequent than one might be led to believe by reading these forums.

I've always taken good care of my batteries, checked my models before flying them, the usual stuff we all did before everybody in the world was in the hobby. For your average .40 or .60 size bird, a single pack is fine, as long as the voltage and amperage reserves are there.

I've had the fancy, larger models and systems with huge draw, and now I limit my model size (for sanity) to about the 30CC sizes, and I like simpler and when I can without putting my model at risk, the cheaper the setup, the better.

In fact, let's face it, we all see linkages that give out and cause crashes much more often than the battery setups. I've changed my focus to using carbon-fiber linkages and quality pull-pull whenever possible. I like using the DuBro linkages that screw through the surface, and the screw itself becomes the horn. Using short screws for your horns, screws that only go through part of the surface, I view that to be as risky as failing to check voltage before going flying.

Jim Rice once said, "There are about 900 things that can make your plane fall from the sky. We do the best we can. When I figure I've got about 650 of those things covered, I think I'm doing pretty well. And no matter how thorough you are, they still find ways to come down."

Jim

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

1800 flights! Lets do a little quick math here.....Say you have had it 2.5 years, Thats 912.5 days, Divided by 1800, That's about 2 flights per day, every day of the week, 365 days a year!
You sure do a lot of flying!

Joystick TX

It is an estimate, but it should be pretty close. I have replaced three sets of main landing gear on my plane and four tail wheels and two props. Todd has seen my engine four or five times and he can confirm it has sometime on it.

I get to fly 12 months out of the year. Part of the joys of retirement. I get to fly four to five days a week, often twice a day. I like to fly from sun-up to about 10:30 am. After that, the crowd shows up and it is hard to get many flights in. Usually get in about six good flights with 10 to 20 touch and goes per flight.. I average a gallon of fuel a week. Last month was it was less, only 3 gallons due to atrip, I don't get avacationany more,and a few rain days that flooded our field..

I have four other planes besides the GSS, they don't get flown much anymore. Hope to solve that with the Bell Hop, it may be as much fun to fly as the GSS. It willalso be powered witha SAP 180.

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Steve,

You might think about changing those batteries out yourself, 1800 charges..... I'd say you got your money's worth.
You should upgrade to a 6 volt for your receiver pack.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I just ordered in two new packs for my GP Super Stearman, which is about half-done. One 6V for the RX, and one 4.8 V for the gasser, which is a Syssa 30CC.

I can't wait to fly it! Of course, I'm notoriously slow about finishing my birds, but it's always worth the wait and the extra attention to detail.

Jim

Joystick TX

Got new packs in July. No need to go to 6 volts. All that does, for my setup, is generate more heat which will do more harm than good.

As an avionics, radar, flight control, and weapons engineerI have seen waytoo many problems with electronics due to not enough margin related to the voltage rating on the components. For the last 50+ years, I have been trained to follow the military spec. guidelines and de-rate electrical components by30 to 50% to increase the reliability. I do the same thing with the electronics in my models. Except for the engine, I usually double that, but I do beef up the structure to take the stress.

As long as linear regulators are used as opposed to switching regulators, it is better to go with two, or more,batteries inparallel to keep the voltage up during high current draw situations, rather than increase the voltage on a single battery to keep the voltage up. Getting the battery close to the high current load is also a great ideadue to the reduced series resistance (IR Drop)in the circuit.

If the idea is to get more speed or torque from the servos, then increasing the battery voltage is the way to go, but there will be more electrical stress and heaton the componentswhich will result indecreased life orreliability, if they are rated for the nominal voltage of 4.8 volts.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Generate heat? You're kidding, right? On a run-of-the-mill sport setup?

Using 6 Volts on a servo is not a big deal. Sure, it increases the speed, but the JR servos I use - both digital and standard - are made to take any increased heat the 6 Volts might generate, which, I might add, is precious little. I doubt that the servo life difference would even be worth measuring.

You're talking high-tech and high-spec, listing credentials like you're vying for a job. Why?

Gsxphil is a guy who came in asking a simple question, hoping to get some good, clear information to help him steer clear of any potential brownout situation in a modest, standard setup in a sport plane. All he needs to know to do so is to keep his voltage above the brownout voltage. Good voltage and plenty of mAhs = no brownouts.

All this other stuff is just confusing the issue.

Jim

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Using 6 volts on gear designed for use on either 4.8 or 6.0 isn't going to hurt anything I don't think? This newer stuff has proven pretty reliable on 6v. What it can do for you is significantly boost servo performance, though I get the fact that may be a non event for some flyers.

Regarding brown out prevention, if we're talking AA NiMh, going to 6v doesn't provide enough extra amperage/help enough to make it worth it. The only thing you can do to boost the amperage (brown out prevention) using those is to add a second pack, go to sub-C cells, or better yet, different battery chemistry. When it comes to a battery chemistry being able to provide amperage, the NiMh chemistry just totally sucks compared to anything else out there - including those old (reliable!) nicads....

Joystick TX

Myresponse is not to the original "simple" question, itis to the statementin the quote. I'm explaining why I don't use, or need, 6 volts on my setup. It may or may not be helpful to anyone, it is just my 2-cents.

Sorry to get technical, butpart of the confusion is due to theamount ofmiss-information out there.Idid leaveoff all the specs. and math.

I included some history on my background, butnot to get a job.It was to help explain why I do things the way I do rather than rely onvoodoo or magic.

I'm just saying that if you want increased speed and torque, go to the 6 volt batteries. SinceI have a sport plane, that is not a requirement. If you want more current, to reduce brown outs, go with two batteries in parallel. With my plane, and the way I fly, brown-outs have never been a problem, even with a single battery. I use two batteries because I fly a lot in one day, and I have had several switch failures over the years, so I like the redundancy.

When an engineer designs an item to operate on 4.8 volts, he tries to select components that are available and that will operate at some value over that voltageto provide a safety margin and toincrease reliability. RC gear is made cheap and there are not a lot of components available to select from that are industrial or mil-spec.I also suspect there is not a lot of de-rating going on. It is similar to your car. If it is designed to be operated at a nominal speed of 55 mph, it may also be operated at 100 mph, it just won't last as long. Physical Laws are "laws", not "suggestions."

The servo heat problem is not a big issue, if they are "rated" for 6 volts, they should be okay. As an engineer, I would never trust putting 6 volts on a servo rated for 4.8 volts. Just because something works, does not mean it is a good idea.

Operating your 4.8 Volt Ignition Module at 6 Volts generates more heat which the module needs to get rid of.If youdo the math, you maybe surprised at the values you get.The potting inside does not allow for good heattransfer or dissipation, youmay not notice the difference in the case temp, but the parts inside would.If it is also mounted in the engine compartment theadditional heat can't be good for it. There aresome other issues, like how fast can the regulator regulate? Is it allowing an over-voltage at each power-up cycle? Also, when the module is switched off, there will be a larger voltage spike than if the supply voltage is 4.8, that spike also needs to be suppressed to prevent over-voltages on the parts. A supply voltage of 5 volts can produce voltages of several hundred volts when a load is switched off.

If you have a part with a not-to-exceed voltage of 7.2 volts and you operate it at 6 volts, it is not as "safe" as operating it at 4.8 volts. So why do that?

Tim Taylor is not always right about more power being a good thing.