http://www.emsjomar.com

Use an ultimate battery backer. $49.95. It's located under the reliability enhancements tab. It's on sale this month. Reg 59.95.

Runs on main battery then switches to reserve when low. It requires your 2 batteries & 2 switch harnesses. Good part is it will not draw the 2nd battery until the first one goes down. So you don't need to recharge the 2nd battery until it is used. Some people do add 2 batteries, run them in series or 2 channels, but the power is drawn equally from the 2. Might as well just buy one big battery? It may be better then one battery, but you can get a power surge that attacks both batteries. The Jomar box is switched current is only drawn to and from one battery at a time.

Easy peasy to add. Does not take up an extra channel, just your BAT on your RX. Flashes LED when working on 2nd battery. Just make a peek hole in front of your pilot and mount under there. Of course you don't want to make the box visible on that perdy Pitts.

You certainly don't need to backup your smoke. Just your main and reserve.

It's just what you are looking for. Certainly not overkill and a MUST HAVE! I have seen too many people top off their Ni-Cad batteries just to charge the top end and ... into the ground it goes. This will/should prevent that. It will certainly be 100% more redundant then with just one battery. BUY IT!

RCISMYLIFE - Thanks for your suggestion and idea. I didn't know a y harness could be used to connect a battery and a servo at the same time. Always learning. I have to admit that I think STLPilot has found the ticket. This is exactly what I was looking for and another reason why RCU is such a great info source. I knew there had to be something like this out there. Just didn't know where to find it except to ask on RCU. STLPilot, I just ordered the battery backer. Good sale price too. Two last questions. I take it that this item should also be wrapped in foam and mounted well away from the Rx. Correct? Is there anything else I need to know about installation? Man, this sounds like a perfect solution. Thanks both for your response and ideas. Much appreciated.

Just install 2 switch harnesses next to each other for power on the exterior of the plane. Then 1 switch harness upfront for ignition. 3 total on outside of airframe. Make sure all swich harnesses have charging jacks. Other then that ... it's no brainer installation. Just run the battery backer inline with 2 batteries and 2 switches. The single wire on the box goes into RX. Here is how I have mine mounted on my 33% Laser. The RX is safely inside the box under the battery backer.

Shot with canopy attached. Just remove some of the "floorboard" inside the canopy. As long as you can see the LED. I am running 2500 MAH on main and 1500 MAH on backup.

Fly something this pretty without a battery backer? This is the Laser 200. 100" WS. BME 102.

NEVER !!!!!

I have to agree with STLpilot this is definately a better way to go.

Gil

STLPilot - Great help. Man I really appreciate you taking the time to respond with the added pictures. I also took note of the increased battery power. Will also provide pictures of the finished installation after I get to this point. RCISMYLIFE - I have to agree. This is a great idea for solving this delima.

P.S. Beautiful airplane. Nice work.

No prob. More then happy to help. I recently just sold my 33% Pitts. I like the plane. But I really like razor sharp bipes like Ultimates somewhat better. The Pitts does fly beautifully although!

I just picked up a GP Pitts at my local hobby store and I'm excited!

I've read what I believe are most all of the treads on this plane and I can find where everyone says "I did the wing mods, etc" but I can't find what everyone did on those mods? Where can I go to get all the Modifications I should do?

Also, Did everyone use the CA hinges as I was going to switch to the robart hinge points??

Has anyone put a Quadra 52 with electronic ignition in this bird? If so was alot of weight needed for balance and did you keep the box on the firewall??


Thanks

Wing mods are here

I used the CA hinges.

Tech Notice

RonM

Goldwing - Unless I misunderstood what you are talking about when you refer to wing mods, G.P. did the wing mods in later runs of the model so you shouldn't have to do any mods to the wings. There are tech notices from G.P. describing what needs to be done if your model does not have 'UPDATED' stamped in red on the wing half end where you apply epoxy to join the wings together. I just checked mine and fortunately I have this stamped on one of the wing halves. G.P. added hardwood for the interplane and cabbane mounts to help solve the problem of screws possibly pulling out of the mounts as a result of using a larger than recommended gas engine.

I would also pay attention to pinning the firewall and then also adding tristock and fiberglass to the firewall and mounting box. G.P. mentions pinning the firewall, but nothing about adding tristock and fiberglass. It's really easy to do this if you haven't done it before.

On my new Pitts II that I am assembling I could actually see daylight between the fuse and the firewall in areas around where they should have a tight snug fit. Not good. IMHO this wouldn't hold a stock recommended 160 let alone a gas engine. I used plenty of epoxy and tristock to reinforce and close the gaps.

The tech notice states that in future runs of the model G.P. will pin the firewall as SOP in mgf. the model. Mine did not come with the firewall pinned, but I have already taken care of this. I think we can do it better than they can anyways.

Good luck and assemble for strength. Use socket heads for the Interplane and Cabbane struts and throw those Phillip heads away. The heads will strip out so easily, especially if you follow the directions and use CA on the thread holes.

Bought a fish scale today...and i will attempt to measure thrust with different propellers tomorrow unless I get called to work.

I will post the findings.

Thanks again

Tom

STLPilot - got another question for you and anyone else who may have an opinion this subject. I was thinking about using a 2700 Mah NiMh battery to drive 7 Futaba 9405 80 oz. torque servos and then use a 1100 Mah NiCd as a back up with the Battery Backer. Any thoughts about NiMh battery packs?

The 2700 mah NiMh comes in a four cell flat pack just as a NiCd pack with almost double the power.............Same size NiCd is at 1700 mah.

Roger, I have switched almost exclusively to nimh & love them. I can fly all day & still have plenty of power left. I am running two 1650 nimh batteries in my pitts & have a triton to charge them, I have gotten to where I don't hardly worry about the batteries any more with the nimh. Just my .02 worth.

Gil

RFW1953

where can I get info on pinning & glassing the firewall? I have reenforced may firewalls with additional plywood and epoxy & tri-Stock but not with fiberglass & pins. Are Pins wooden dowels?

Thanks,

Goldwing

Goldwing - See tech notices listed with the Pitts specs at G.P. for additional info on this........ I used 1/8" wooden dowels at 1" in length. I used 3 on each side and pinned all four sides. Just like I'm sure you are familiar with. As for fiberglassing, I simply used fiberglass cloth and then 'Finish Epoxy' for resin. I covered all corner areas all around the mounting box as it mounts to the firewall. I had thought RORO had posted pictures of how he pinned and fiberglassed his model. I couldn't locate on this thread. I will post a picture tonight when I get home of how I just finished pinning and and fiberglassing mine.

RCISMYLIFE - Thanks for the NiMh info. Thats what I was hoping. Sounds like you have high confidence without any negative consequences. Wish others would pipe in on this.

on how I pinned and beefed up my box and F1. I am using a G62, so far everything is holding up 60 plus flights

I have read some of the posts on this plane and have gotten alot of imfo. the answers to these Questions will make up my mind to get one or not.
thanks for your replys
Roy



I was thinking about this plane for the 3w60 I have,(old style with side carb) What do you think?

With all the up grades GP has done to it if I got a newer production run besides beefing up the motor box are there other things to watch for?

I have heard this plane can't do 3D (I would think it could do most of the 3D stuff in the right hands) what are its limits?

My Da 50 still has not come in. Arrgh! Just being impatient.....

Roro , thanks for adding the pictures of your firewall mods. I know your input sure helped me when I was first assembling. Sure got my attention with the idea of beefing up the firewall and making sure all the nuts and bolts are tight. Assemble for strength.

Here is a picture of my firewall after completing the pins, which are the dark spots on the mounting box, and added fiberglass cloth. Also added tristock inside the mounting box forward and aft on the inside of the box. Used Finish epoxy for Resin. Adds a nice fuel proof finish. I brushed it lightly over all exposed wood, including the firewall and the mounting box. Second time around was much easier and actually had fun doing it when I felt confident in what I was doing.

Also, RCISMYLIFE , thanks for the input about the NiMh battery packs. I am thinking about using a 4 cell 2700 mah NiMh with a Battery Backer by Jomar with a 1100 mah NiCd, also four cells. I will be using back-up switch and charge jacks as well, which I learned today form Jomar will also back up, in the event of not only battery failure with the NiMh but also for both switches. I like this idea. Seems to be the best of both worlds.

As for 3-D well, I'm not really a 3-D pilot. I like the big sky. others have remarked good and bad when doing 3-D with this airplane. It sure is a crowd pleaser with a smoke system though........I like it for what it is.

Thanks for the help with the updates. I have and updated kit so much of it does not matter but I will glass & Pin the firewall.

I have a question and I've read the manual and am not getting the picture. On the top wing the 90 brackets "D" say they must be together and they are but the other two Brackets "C" (ones in the back) are not together. I used the predrilled holes and still have a 1/16" gap between them. The Bold face important note only address the "D" brackets. Should the "C" brackets be together? Also my cabane struts don't really line up that well. I can put the bolt through but I can tell it is stressing the wood screws a bit. I think the right side of the fuselage screws are just a bit forward of the left ones. (Maybe a 1/32" or so) See the attached picture.

Thanks for your help

Sheldon

As far as the cabane struts I had the same problem but it did not affect anything. On the brackets not touching each other, that would definately cause a problem. It will either pull the screws loose from the wing when you tighten the bolt through the cabane strut or it will put sufficient stress on the bracket to cause them to break. If it were me I would put some washers between the brackets & solder or glue in place so as not to put any stress on the brackets when tightening the wing to the caban strut.
Hope this helps
Gil

Goldwing

I responded to your email just a few minutes ago. I agree with RCISMYLIFE if the gap is significant. I had a gap with the aft brackets, but honestly never had any problem with them holding. Might want to hear from others on this as well.

Did anyone else have problems with the tail section? I worked hard to insure the lower wing was setup correctly as all measurements seem to go from there. I leveled the plane on a flat surface leveling from the front engine box and the lower grove for the landing gear. Once level, I measured the distance from the surface to the tip of each wing and managed to be a little less then a 1/16" difference. (Things were looking good.) But the tail section is WAY off. After doing a trial fit and sliding the stabilizer in and in that short distance tip to tip it is 7/8" difference from the left to right tip! When putting the Fin in it is also out of plum the same direction and basically the same distance. The instructions say to "carefully sand the high side." That does not seem possible, the gap would be too large. Any advise?

Thanks

An update,

I went and bought a fish scale and set it up behind the airplane and tried 3 different props for thrust tests. Here are the results. You should know that the propellors used were generic Zingers, not the pro series or any fancy props. Weather was 87 degrees with 90 percent humidity at 100 ft above sea level.

Size RPM THRUST

22 x 6-10 6000 18LBS

22 x 8 6300 19LBS

20 x 8 7700 18LBS


I have only flown this airplane with the 22 x 6-10. I guess my question would be..which propellor would work best??

Tom

BTW, This post is regarding a previous post asking about the thrust of the pitts with a Moki 2.10

The GP Pitts box just arrived. Beautiful!! Where do I start? I have a Saito 300 Twin coming this week any suggestions?
Galen