Tons of people just got new UCD ARF's for xmas and trying to find info in the old thread over in 3D flying is nearly impossible.

Before we all start assembling our new plane, lets list the most common concerns or issues that should be deealt with while putting this plane together.

Some suggestions I've heard are:
1) Reinforcing the landing gear block.
2) adding a pull-pull system for rudder.
3) Adding some "right thrust" to the engine mount by inserting 2-3 washers behind mount. Can someone help with which side of mount? I believe if you are looking at the nose of the plane head-on the washers should go on the right side of the mount.
4) Some people are using aftermarket tailwheel assemblies. The one that comes with the kit is a little lackluster.
5) People with "pumped" engines (YS, OS pumpers, perrys, and clines) are mounting the tank at the CG of the plane.
6) The less weight the better. Don't bother with Pilot figures or onboard glow starters. However, a remote glowplug connector is highly recommended.

For those of you who have already assermbled your UCD, did you mount the gas tank as pictured in the manual? I've alwys put protective foam around my tanks to help reduce vibration, but the pictures in the manual just show the tank being secured in with a small piece of ply. No foam.

Also, where are most people routing their RX antenae? Anyone have pics?

yuo forgot to capitalize God and America

LOL. You are right. But to tell you the truth I'm already tired of my tag-line. It has a redneck sound to it. I've removed it for my own sanity's sake.

Maybe I'll try something like:
BTW, you mispelled "yuo"

wups!

Simple one NOT to forget on this plane. Seal the gaps in control surfaces with clear monocote or even packing tape to prevent flutter.
Also try the hook and rubber band tail wheel setup in the regular U can do post. it will save you a rudder and give longer life to the rudder servo.
As far as the washers for right thrust. do not confuse any newer people. they go on the left side of the plane itself. Just like when flying the plane, left is always left that way. LOL!!!

Yeah you are probably right. I didn't think about it when I posted it. The washers should be on the left side of the motor mount (When imagining yourself sitting in the cockpit).

Still no response on the antenae? Looking for ideas on the best way to route it.

I run the antenae through a plastic tube out the bottom just behind the former at the rear of the wing. I clear tape it to the bottom of the plane and the atenae ends just before the tailwheel. The platic tube (part of inner pushrod) has some give and no sharp edges to hurt the wire. I run partial tape strips to mount it so in a real bad crash it would pull loose before seperating from the receiver.

Archer I was thinking about doing that myself. But I'd like to maybe run it down the inside of the fuse if I can do it without getting any radio interference. I've done it with other planes before, but never on a bird this big.

I have seen on the other thread that that is ok as long as you are not using a reversing Y-harness for the split elevator. Some people are having issues if the antenae passes near the reversing unit.

Here's what I'm going to do with mine:

Std servos all around except Rudder, which will get a JR 4735 (90oz).

Pushrods get replaced with 4-40 rods and I will use ball links on the servo arms.

Robart pin hinges, control surfaces will be sealed.

I've flown one with minimal mods and am convinced that there isn't much you need to do to have a really sweet flying airplane. I'm looking forward to getting mine in the air.

If you are sport flying the set up is fine. if you intend to 3D the standard servos MIGHT cause you the loss of your plane.
You do not need 440 rods if you are doing standard flying, it is the higher torque servos and flips/waterfalls causing the rod bending.
I am using HS 605s for A, E. Standard for throttle and H 645MG
for rudder. All Hightech.
I am learning acrobatics now but rigged mine for eventual 3D.

I will be doing 3D. I have spoken with Salmon who is using JR standards on his and flying 3D with a YS91. In the RCU review, Marc used 3001's on the elevators (same as me) and used 9001's on ailerons, which only have a little more torque than the 3001's. I feel that the speeds at which this plane flies, in addition to the very large elevator counterbalances and other successful standard servo implementation, will allow me to use standards with success. Thanks for your concern though; I know that standard servos aren't ideal for the plane but I'm going to give them a shot before discounting them.

Hi guys,
My UCD should be here anytime. What engine will you guys be putting on this plane. The two UCD's that are here locally are running .91 4c, and it looks like this plane would take almost anything up to a 1.20.Have you seen the write up in the November RCU online issue on the UCD? It's pretty good!
Can't wait to get mine!!
Loren

Like I said I'm going with a Saito 100 because it seems to be the sweet spot for this plane. Tons of other people are using YS 91's also. Not too many are using 2 strokes. There are a handful of people using larger 4's like 120's and 140's. And I can't leave out 2 others that I know of on the forums that are using Saito 180's!! I'd love to see those planes fly.

I'm not sure if they are changing the engine mount location or cutting the bottom of the cowl out. The valve covers on my 100 are very close to the bottom of the cowl so I don't know where there would be much more room without moving the mount.

Make sure you upgrade the tail wheel assembly. The stock one is garbage. I'm using a Sullivan spring system. Also consider using 4-40 pushrods instead of the supplied 2-56 rods. With control throws like those on the UCD you'll need it.

One other tip I forgot to mention. If you go with a different tailwheel like the sullivan you will have room to add another hinge to the bottom of the rudder. This is a very good idea considering that the stock tailwheel acted as a hinge or at least a stiffener while in flight. The problem with the stock tail wheel is that a hard landing will exert lots of force on that rudder and possibly cause problems. Thats the great thing about the sullivan tail wheel, the spring takes a lot of the impact and what gets by it is absorbed by the fuse.

There is also the rubberband connection between tailwheel and rudder. full description and pictures on the regular UCD thread already.
Both myself and the moderator EXCAP232 are using OS91 FS2s on ours. I am not into 3D yet except for the hovering part. The OS91 will hover and pull out slowly but that is on a 15x6 prop. I just got the 14x6 to try it out. That might do the trick to allow faster pullout.
You need the YS91 or the 120s to really do full bore 3d with this plane. EXCAP is talking about doing that because he does do 3D.

I glued my canopy on last night and it looks great. I'd like to tape it off also. What kind of tape are you guys using and where can I get it. I painted my canopy black and would like to use 1/4 black tape if I can get it. Thanks

I should receive mine in two weeks, i own both os 91 and 120 surpass, and I still hesitate wich one i will use after I readed the GP warning about the overpowering of the plane. But when I see that peoples put a 180 on it, I think my 120 won't desintegrate the bird in flight.

Are you guys using the defaults for your control throws? I set the ailerons up with a 2 1/8" deflection which is 3D setting and it looks a little tamer than I expected.

Well I would finally consider myself done with my UCD. I painted the canopy black and it looks great. I used great planes 1.4" striping tape to seal the seam between the canopy and the fuse. I used R56 glue instead of screws. Now I just wish the weather was better so I could break it in and fly it.

One thing I was still thinking about doing was was cutting a small hole in the bottom of the cowl to serve as an exit hole for the hose that connects to the nipple on the back of the crankcase. Right now I have it running under the rear side of the cowl exiting out the back toward the landing gear. I was thinking that by having it exit a hole in the cowl it out stay in place intead of flopping around. Has anyone else done this or is it even neccessary?