Cermark Pitts Build/Assembly
#101
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From: Tulsa, OK
I bought this pitts from a guy and he said it was made from a royal kit. I am looking at selling but wondering how much to ask for it. any ideas?
It has an OS 91 4 stroke. It looks like it is covered with fabric and dope. Everything works great but was told it might be a little bit much of a plane for me.
It has an OS 91 4 stroke. It looks like it is covered with fabric and dope. Everything works great but was told it might be a little bit much of a plane for me.
#102

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Nice looking plane. Hardly anything looks better than a Pitts in the air, IMO.
However, a Pitts can be a challenge on the ground due it's short wheel base and fuselage length (moments) but flys well once you get her airborne, if it isn't too heavy. Royal kits could get a little heavy depending on the builder and his willingness to carve away excess balsa, among other things. You may very well be getting some good advice, and it would be a shame to damage her as repair would take some additional skill due to her construction. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it may only have two ailerons as well, not good IMO for a Pitts.
If it is RTF, with a good engine and other components, you may start at $500-$600. You can always come down. I recently sold a smaller 40 size Ultimate for $500 but it was all new including engine, plane, servos, and other components. The only thing not new was the RX and TX.
Hope it all works out for you.
However, a Pitts can be a challenge on the ground due it's short wheel base and fuselage length (moments) but flys well once you get her airborne, if it isn't too heavy. Royal kits could get a little heavy depending on the builder and his willingness to carve away excess balsa, among other things. You may very well be getting some good advice, and it would be a shame to damage her as repair would take some additional skill due to her construction. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like it may only have two ailerons as well, not good IMO for a Pitts.
If it is RTF, with a good engine and other components, you may start at $500-$600. You can always come down. I recently sold a smaller 40 size Ultimate for $500 but it was all new including engine, plane, servos, and other components. The only thing not new was the RX and TX.
Hope it all works out for you.
#103
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From: Tulsa, OK
Thanks for the quick response! Thats is good news.I really want a 1/4 scale cub and put some tundra tires on it. Use it for a tow plane or something. It does only have 2 ailerons which is kinda of a bummer.
#104
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From: DurbanKwazuluNatal, SOUTH AFRICA
Please could someone help I have aquired a Cermark Pitts S2B which originally belonged to Rich Uravitch, have contacted him and it was his plane, I need help with the proper CG location if anybody can help I will really appreciate. I live in Durban South Africa
Thanks
Brian Gray
<[email protected]>
Thanks
Brian Gray
<[email protected]>
#105

My Feedback: (221)
Place your finger in front of and against the rear cabane mount where it bolts to the top wing. Your plane should balance there. I had one of these planes for four years. Very nice flyer and looks great in the air also. Make sure you have strong servos in the wings. I had flutter on my first flight due to a weak servo that failed. The plane survived and I upgraded to JR 2741s and had no more issues in four seasons of flying. I sold mine, still in excellent condition. I had a Saito 180 in it. Knife edge loops with no problems.
You can see pictures of it in my gallery.
You can see pictures of it in my gallery.
#106
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From: BlackpoolLancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Hi
does anyone know what size and thread the nylon bolts that are used for fastening the wing struts to the wing are? Reason I'm asking is that one of my nylon bolts just won't go in and I want to try and get a metal bolt same size and thread and pass that thru the captive nut to see if that resolves the problem. I'm in the UK and most of the nuts bolts here are metric so I may have fun getting the right size. Any help appreciated
does anyone know what size and thread the nylon bolts that are used for fastening the wing struts to the wing are? Reason I'm asking is that one of my nylon bolts just won't go in and I want to try and get a metal bolt same size and thread and pass that thru the captive nut to see if that resolves the problem. I'm in the UK and most of the nuts bolts here are metric so I may have fun getting the right size. Any help appreciated
#109
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From: BlackpoolLancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Has anyone flown this with a more rearward c of g than shown in the plan? I've opted for a 6v sub c pack thru an opto isolator to take some of the load off of the rx battery and don't really want to move things around if possible but current c of g is around 1/2 an inch rear of that shown in the plan and I'm almost ready for the maiden.
Any help or input appreciated
Any help or input appreciated
#110
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From: CAMDEN,
TN
I have mine at what the instructions say and IMO it is still nose heavy. I will be moving mine back about where yours is now to try maybe this weekend. I really think 1/2" aft of instructions would be okay but you may want to fly your maiden on the conservative side and move some weight forward to balance on the recommended CG.
#111
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From: CAMDEN,
TN
I flew with the CG back 1/2' today and it is much better. The plane will land much more scale like and inverted flight requires very little forward stick to hold level. It snaps nice now also. I have been playing with props for the 120 AX and I am sold on the APC 16.5x5W! Vertical is now great. The Cermark Pitts is moving up on my list really fast. I still need to balance it laterally.
#112

Hey Guys!
I've been lurking in this thread for a while and after reading through it, I decided to put my Pitts together. I've had it sitting in the box for a couple of years, so it was time. Mine is powered with a Saito 125 (it's what I had on hand), and while the power is good, I think it could use a little more. Like the post above, it's fast becoming my "gotta take to the field" model. Anyway, it has one bad habit and I wonder if anyone else has the same problem. When applying rudder (left or right, it doesn't matter), the nose of the plane drops severely. This obviously has a big impact on Knife Edge, Stall Turns and any maneuver that uses rudder. For the moment, the CG is just behind the recommended point and the initial flight trim was good, just needed a little aileron trim. Are you guys just using a mix to add up elevator when using rudder, or am I missing something? I appreciate any input!
I've been lurking in this thread for a while and after reading through it, I decided to put my Pitts together. I've had it sitting in the box for a couple of years, so it was time. Mine is powered with a Saito 125 (it's what I had on hand), and while the power is good, I think it could use a little more. Like the post above, it's fast becoming my "gotta take to the field" model. Anyway, it has one bad habit and I wonder if anyone else has the same problem. When applying rudder (left or right, it doesn't matter), the nose of the plane drops severely. This obviously has a big impact on Knife Edge, Stall Turns and any maneuver that uses rudder. For the moment, the CG is just behind the recommended point and the initial flight trim was good, just needed a little aileron trim. Are you guys just using a mix to add up elevator when using rudder, or am I missing something? I appreciate any input!
#113
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From: CAMDEN,
TN
I have not had that problem and I have ruddered mine alot. I assume that you have verified that no weird mixing is going on now. I mean when you rudder on the ground there is no elevator deflection.
It sounds like an incidence issue. Did you check the wing incidence and maybe double check the ailerons to verify that they are all centered with the wings.
It sounds like an incidence issue. Did you check the wing incidence and maybe double check the ailerons to verify that they are all centered with the wings.
#114
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From: Casper, WY
Looks good Free Bird! I like what you've done with the aileron linkage. I've just completed my Cermark S2B with an O.S 1.60 and smoke. I'm over one mile above sea level, so there's no replacement for displacement! Hope to maiden this weekend and will account any rudder issues. I'll take some photos soon.
#119
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From: Boise,
ID
I got the pilot bust and the "Pitts" tail logo from www.litepilots.com They offer a full graphic set for the Pitts but I ordered only the logo...
Randy
Randy
#121
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From: Boise,
ID
I think it may have been discontinued.....Try http://www.chiefaircraft.com/rcmsec/Models/Model.html and see if they have any in stock..
Randy
Randy
#122

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From: Santa Fe Springs,
CA
If you're in Canada or Europe looking for CERMARK's Pitts S2B, then try PM Hobbycraft for Canadians, and CML Distributors for England.
Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK
Peace,
Steven Chao,
CERMARK
#123
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From: Casper, WY
Thanks!
It's been a few months since the maiden but I never posted... Bad me. Maiden was great!!! The OS 160 screamed (although tuned a little rich for break in) and the 18/10 prop seamed to be appropriate. The aircraft only took a few clicks of right rudder and everything else was dead on using the factory suggested CG. It seamed that everyone at the club was warning me on how challenging these are to fly and especially land. I feel it's the contrary! Like any bipe, throttle and rudder control must be on the top of your mind but I thought it was very easy and predictable to control even in high rates. It seemed to land a little like a fast trainer that was happy with a lot flair. And in the air, that thing will tumble! I have 6 successful flights and the season's gone. Am waiting for spring for weather and more daring flights... Until then, it's indoor season!
Overall, I'm very happy with this bipe- It looks like the only thing I'll be improving is the tail wheel at this point.
It's been a few months since the maiden but I never posted... Bad me. Maiden was great!!! The OS 160 screamed (although tuned a little rich for break in) and the 18/10 prop seamed to be appropriate. The aircraft only took a few clicks of right rudder and everything else was dead on using the factory suggested CG. It seamed that everyone at the club was warning me on how challenging these are to fly and especially land. I feel it's the contrary! Like any bipe, throttle and rudder control must be on the top of your mind but I thought it was very easy and predictable to control even in high rates. It seemed to land a little like a fast trainer that was happy with a lot flair. And in the air, that thing will tumble! I have 6 successful flights and the season's gone. Am waiting for spring for weather and more daring flights... Until then, it's indoor season!
Overall, I'm very happy with this bipe- It looks like the only thing I'll be improving is the tail wheel at this point.
#124
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From: bakersfield,
CA
I was curios if your pitts is still flying after 2 years I have the exact same build in progress 1.60 with slimline muffler and showtime smoke. mines been sitting in the box for about 2.5 yrs just pulled it out to start working on it. Do you have any video of this plane?
#125

My Feedback: (153)
I built mine about two months ago. I used a YS 120 four stroke and hitec 5645mg on tail and and regular servos on the aeilerons (4). If I remember correctly it weighs about 10lbs. It is really a neat and great flying plane. I did use a 81 for the throttle and moved the fuel tank back right on the CG. Mine floats in well for a bipe first flight was a dead stick. The only complaint that I have is that it is really tough to control on the ground (squirlly) other than that no complaints. I would llike to have used the MLD 28cc gas motor in it. You can still buy some of the parts from CERMARK if you need any. Make sure to use lock-tite on everything prior to flying I didnt and had about 6 flights and things started to come loose. I will see if I can get some video of it when it gets nice out.



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